How T20 World Cup catered for Barmies & Muslims

The Herculean efforts of Ben Stokes and his team on the field on Sunday, when England won the T20 World Cup, were matched just as well by the ICC catering team at Melbourne Cricket Ground. Getting the mix right to cater for a thirsty Barmy Army while respecting the Muslim fans that made up almost 75% of the crowd was no mean feat as The Buyer’s man on the ground, Geoffrey Dean, discovered when he talked to John Hutchinson, the ICC’s national catering manager.

Jos Buttler lifts the T20 World Cup

By Geoffrey Dean November 14, 2022

It was not just England’s cricketers who distinguished themselves at the Melbourne Cricket Ground on Sunday when they won the T20 World Cup on a memorable night. Their supporters, who numbered around a quarter of the 80,000 crowd, got through as many as 60,000 schooners of beer (each measuring 425ml, which is not that far off a British pint).

That was the figure released to The Buyer on the morning after the match by John Hutchinson, the national catering manager for the International Cricket Council [ICC], whose tournament it was. “The English Barmy Army fans’ consumption was definitely noteworthy,” confessed the Sydney-based Australian.“I’ve worked in stadiums at major sporting events for 12 years, and the British fans always drink the most. More than the Australians do. The British & Irish Lions’ rugby matches see the biggest amount drunk, although our rugby league consumption is also immense.”

England’s Barmy Army - “notable consumption”

Given that the only beer on sale at the MCG was not one most England fans would have been familiar with – a trendy, hip Indian brand called Bira 91 that was the ICC’s official tournament beer – their quaffing was all the more impressive. With the majority of the 60,000 or so Pakistan supporters (Atkinson’s estimate) not imbibing alcohol, it was left to the England fans and a few neutrals to try to drink the bars dry.

Other alcoholic beverages were of course available. An impressive 12,000 cans of pre-mixed drinks, such as gin and tonic and vodka cocktails, were consumed along with 3,000 glasses of wine. There was not much choice of wine for spectators – again just the ICC’s sponsored brand, namely Jacob’s Creek, with Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz in the public seats, and barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in the boxes and hospitality areas. Jacob’s Creek sparkling wine was also available.

John Hutchinson, ICC’s national catering manager

“The wine consumption was a bit low, although perhaps not a surprise given it was mainly a Muslim audience,” Hutchinson mused. “Instead, they got through 22,000 bottles of soft drinks and 15,000 bottles of water. We sold a record number of vegetarian samosas though – around 14,000 – while the non-Pakistan fans ate most of the 5,000 beef burgers and 3,000 hot dogs sold. We went into the tournament trying to ensure we were catering to cultural needs, and halal product was promoted through the venue. Both the Muslim population and the Brits were buyers of 6,000 portions of fish and chips.”

Hutchinson paid tribute to Visit Victoria, the state government’s tourist arm who helped make the tournament such a success. Three crowds in excess of 80,000 at the MCG (including 90,000 for the India v Pakistan game) ensured there were excellent takings for drink and food despite some washed-out games in Melbourne. The city’s commitment to sport has never been stronger, with Visit Victoria the new £9 million sponsors for the Australian women’s netball team and the Commonwealth Games taking place in 2026 around the state. These are centred on the notable wine-producing towns of Geelong, Ballarat and Bendigo as well as Gippsland, a premier region for Pinot Noir.

Maison Chanzy's fine Bouzeron Aligotés

As Bourgogne Chardonnay becomes ever-more eye-wateringly expensive so the canny wine buyer needs to look for alternatives. In Burgundy that means seeking out lesser-known appellations and sites which, through climate change, have started competing with some of the top slopes. And it could also mean rethinking Aligoté – the region’s other white grape – that, in the hands of top winemakers such as Maison Chanzy, can seriously compete with Chardonnay – not just on the palate but for vignerons in the vineyard too.

By Geoffrey Dean October 28, 2022

2020 vision: Domaine Chanzy’s Loic Cornuau and Xavier Badinand

Quite how good the best Aligoté can be was well illustrated by a tasting at 67 Pall Mall of three labels of the variety produced by Maison Chanzy from the 2020 vintage. The varying styles of Aligoté were very much apparent, with one matured predominantly in stainless steel and the other two embracing much more of an oak regime. Retailing between £18.99 and £38.99, these alternative Burgundian whites are fair value for their quality, and distributed by Alliance Wine, which began working with Chanzy just over a year ago and has a broad selection of its range.

Xavier Badinand, Chanzy’s general manager, and Loic Cornuau, their export manager, flew in for the tasting, which also featured a Chanzy Chardonnay from Rully and two of its premier cru Pinots Noirs from Mercurey and Maranges. The UK is Chanzy’s number one export market, taking about 10% of all exports, which make up 45-50% of production from 66 hectares under vine in the Côte Chalonnaise, Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits.

The winery is situated in Bouzeron, one of the smallest appellations in Burgundy and the primary one for the production of Aligoté. Where the grape is grown in Burgundy outside Bouzeron – mostly on flat ground in the Côte Chalonnaise and Chablis – it is just ‘Bourgogne Aligoté’. Any Bouzeron AOC wine must be 100% Aligoté. In the nineteenth century, it used to be planted in Meursault, and in 1930, a legal pronouncement permitted Corton-Charlemagne to be made with the variety.

Maison Chanzy is situated in Bouzeron: the promary appellation for Aligoté

“Only 168 people live in Bouzeron, but it has four wineries and 45 growers,” Badinand said. “We own 14 hectares there, which is a quarter of the area under vine, and use only our fruit – we don’t buy in any. The soil of limestone and blue marl is ideal for Aligoté as is the altitude,  up to 390m, which is high for Burgundy. The maximum yield allowed in Bouzeron is 65hl/ha but our average is closer to 50, which is about the same as a Rully or Mercurey white.”

Some of Chanzy’s older Aligoté vines, which range between 40 and 59 years in age, are exceptionally low-yielding, and can really bring down the average yield. In 2021, that average was “a bit less than 20hl/ha – the lowest I can remember,” according to Cornuau.  The resulting concentration was a notable feature. Indeed, the Vieilles Vignes, Clos de la Fortune 2020 from a 0.59h plot planted in 1963 could easily be mistaken for a top-end Chardonnay.

Citrus-like fruit, high levels of acidity, an affinity with oak and 100% malolactic fermentation for all three labels also support the notion they could be Chardonnay. Indeed, Aligoté’s great strength is its low pH – between 3.10-3.12 for all three of these Chanzy labels.

“Our goal is just to reflect our terroir,” Badinand declared. “The idea is to show that Aligoté in Bouzeron can be something of a high end wine. And as a late ripening variety with such good acidity, it can counter global warming. It is also more disease-resistant than Chardonnay and doesn’t require much green harvest if our work on the soil is well done.”

The domaine is HVE3-certified, the highest nod to environmental practices short of organic certification. “It’s not just viticulture where we are HVE3 but the whole environment – trees, borders and water, ” Badinand revealed. “We are trying to turn organic but are not certified, although we use many organic elements. We do a lot of very soft ploughing. It’s not easy to go to organic just like that as we have 66 hectares, and need more time.”

Tasting the Maison Chanzy wines

Bouzeron Les Trois, 2020 Maison Chanzy 12.5% abv; £18.99 The Vineking, Barrel and Still, The Wandering Palate.

One of the few Aligotés that Chanzy blends from three different sites – all facing in different directions (south-west, south-east and north). Notable freshness with some weight to the palate from a touch of new oak (10% from one new 228-litre pièce). Mostly aged in stainless steel. Clean and crisp with very appealing lemon fruit. Average age of vines is 30-40 years, giving some complexity. Yield of 55hl/ha. Ready now, but will keep for the next 4-5 years.

Bouzeron Clos de la Fortune Monopole, 2020 Maison Chanzy 12.5% abv; £26.99, Cellar Door Wines, Reserve Wines.

Chanzy is the only producer of this vineyard, a south-east facing parcel of 2.76h with more blue marl and limestone, and less clay.  Similar age vines (30-35 years old) but a lower yield of 40hl/ha. Quite different élevage, with 80% matured in oak, mostly older although 15% new. More depth and richness than the lighter style of Les Trois. Complex with minerality, and good bitterness on a long finish.

Bouzeron Clos de la Fortune, Vielles Vignes, 2020 Maison Chanzy 12.5% abv; £38.99, Dunell’s, Amps

Barely half a hectare of old vines planted in 1963 produced 854 bottles of this outstanding Aligoté in the 2020 vintage. Fruit harvested as early as September 3 in what was a very warm year, with élevage for 16 months in three barrels, one of which was new with very light toast. The other two were used for the 2015 and 2016 vintages. Real weight and complexity, along with glorious freshness and concentrated pear and citrus notes.

Rully Les Cailloux, 2020 Maison Chanzy 13% abv; £27.99, Mango Wines, Hitchin Wine Co, Vineking

A small 1.7h plot of Chardonnay at 340m east of Rully, just to the south of Bouzeron, with lots of small stones. These reflect into the grapes, giving minerality. Elevage for 15 months in 50% stainless steel and 50% oak (one new 228-litre pièce out of seven in total). Very classy white Burgundy with vibrant acidity (pH 3.20) and excellent length, as well as concentration from 40-year old vines.

Mercurey 1er Cru Clos Voyens, 2020 Maison Chanzy 14% abv; £37.99, The Bottle Shop, Wine World

From a one-hectare parcel facing south that Chanzy took over in 2017. The Pinot Noir was planted in 1979 and 1980, and some had to be grubbed up with new plantings made. An exceptional vintage, where Badinand feels the terroir really expresses itself. “It has such finesse and elegance with very fine tannins,” he purred. Elevage was 16 months in two new barrels and ten older ones, followed by three months in vat and late bottling at the end of May 2022.

Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière, 2020 Maison Chanzy 14% abv; £39.99, Dunell’s, Carruthers & Kent, Vineking

Chanzy owns one hectare of Pinot on this 37-hectare site, which is south-facing on sandy soil with clay on limestone. The formerly rustic style of this lesser-known appellation has given way to a softer one that is approachable sooner. Glorious raspberry and damson fruit with spicy notes and texture from 20% new oak that is very well-integrated. No filtration, and plenty of concentration from low yields of 40hl/ha. Complex and long with lovely balance, as well as freshness from a low pH of 3.35.

Swiss Wines tasting at 67 Pall Mall

Exclusive, hard to find and using little-known indigenous grapes – Swiss wine is fast becoming a sommelier’s treat. Already there are 11 restaurants in London with Swiss wines on their list, with two of them having over 20 wines apiece. Private members club, 67 Pall Mall, has over 100 listings and was the setting for the first Swiss Wine tasting since Covid where Geoffrey Dean met up with the category’s ambassadors, Francois Genoud and Simon Hardy to taste through what’s new and find out how to navigate through the country’s 62 Swiss AOCs and 252 different grape varieties.

By Geoffrey Dean October 18, 2022

Exports of Switzerland’s wines have seldom got above 2% of total production, but Britain continues to receive some of the best and the most interesting. That was apparent at Swiss Wine in the UK’s first live trade tasting since Covid, in early October at 67 Pall Mall in London. Three-quarters of attendees were buyers, which reflected the fact that as many as 68 retail shops in the UK sell some Swiss labels.

“Before Covid, only half of those who came to our trade tastings were buyers, with the other half being wine writers,” said Jean-Francois Genoud, who project-leads Swiss Wine in the UK. “So I think that is a sign of the growing interest here in our wines. The image we have abroad is important. Having an image in London, New York, and Tokyo helps internally – that the wine we have is recognised abroad. London has always been important as an international place – it’s incredible what’s going on here.”

While Genoud is Lausanne-based, his fellow ambassador for Swiss Wine, Simon Hardy, lives in London, where he revealed as many as 11 restaurants now have Swiss labels on their wine list. The St Moritz Restaurant in Soho is top of the league table with 24 different Swiss wines, closely pursued by the Authentique Epicerie in Tufnell Park with 22.

“Take a private member’s club like 67 Pall Mall,” Hardy said. “They have over 100 different Swiss wines on their list. That’s come from four or five years of steady effort where they can see the demand is there because people are discovering. There’s a big local grape story as well as quality versions of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Merlot.

“Here we have what I’d call the more progressive and open-minded producers, who are making great wines but also understand the value of building credibility, reputation and awareness outside their home market. This is a platform for them to get that message out. Obviously that has to be balanced with the availability of the wines. That’s why we’ve produced the distribution directory.” Highly detailed, it lists every restaurant and retail shop where Swiss wines are available, along with the three online retailers – Alpine Wines, Vida Wines and Sip Wines.

With no more than 100 million litres of wine made each year in Switzerland, where 250 million litres are drunk annually, exports are always going to be limited. For the record, though, there are 62 Swiss AOCs and 252 different grape varieties planted across 14,696 hectares. Pinot Noir is the most planted black grape, and Chasselas the most planted white.

So how were the Swiss wines tasting?

The tasting featured Roman Hermann’s outstanding Pinot Noir Grand Maitre 2020 from the Bundner Herrschaft, a renowned sub-appellation for the varietal, although he is nicknamed ‘The king of whites’ for his superb Chardonnays. He and fellow top Graubunden producer, Martin Donatsch, also make Completer, a rare indigenous white varietal of which there are only eight hectares planted in Switzerland.  Aromas of quince, plum and honey were clear on tasting along with racy acidity.

A trio of indigenous whites from leading Valais winemaker, Robert Taramarcaz, owner of Domaine des Muses, also showed particularly well – Humagne Blanche (fresh with lime notes), Petite Arvine (grapefruit notes) and Chasselas (aka Fendant). Meanwhile, Mathias Bechtel’s Rauschling 2018, made near Zurich from a German varietal that is only really found in German-speaking Switzerland, yielded light citrus notes with vibrant acidity.

Other Chasselas to impress included Les Frères Dutruy’s refined Dézaley Grands Cru Les Terrasses 2020; Henri Cruchon’s Champanel Grand Cru 2019; and Louis Bovard’s Aigle Cuveé Noé 2018. Bovard, 80, was the first Lavaux producer to keep his barrel-fermented Chasselas on the lees much longer than usual. In 2010, he founded the Conservatoire Mondial du Chasselas where 19 different types of the varietal are cultivated and vinified separately.

Luc Massy is another longtime leading producer of Chasselas. His Clos du Boux Grand Cru Epesses 2020 and Chemin de Fer 2020 were amongst personal favourites at the tasting, along with Domaine de la Pierre Latine’s Reserve du Clos du Crosex Grillé, a legendary Vaud grand cru vineyard with an illustrious history.

Two sweet whites that caught the palate were produced by Les Celliers de Vétroz in Valais. Symphonie 2014 (100% Marsanne), had massive concentration while Rhapsodie 2012 was made from another indigenous Swiss grape, Amigne. First mentioned in 1686 as growing near the town Vétroz, where nearly all current plantings are concentrated, it has complex orange zest notes, with fresh acidity to counter residual sugar of almost 200 g/l. Five Fontannaz brothers and their sister run the estate, which was founded by their parents Jean and Yvette.

Another Valais producer, Jean-René Germanier, exhibited an impressive range of reds, including two different labels of Humagne Rouge and two of Cornalin. Red fruit and soft tannins were evident. Germanier’s Cayas Syrah du Valais Reserve 2017 was excellent, with lovely notes of spice and white pepper as well as real concentration and length.

Two Merlots from the Ticino appellation, where the grape has flourished, were among several to impress – Gialdi Vini’s Sassi Grossi 2015 and Brivio Vini’s Riflessi d’Epoca 2016. Another was Louis Bovard’s Dézaley Grand Cru 2017, while his Dézaley Rouge 2017 was a 50/50 blend of Merlot and Syrah. Similarly powerful and spicy was Henri Cruchon’s Gamaret 2018, a cross of Gamay Noir and Reichensteiner that was made in 1970 at Lausanne.

The little-known Swiss varietals like Gamaret will doubtless be the preserve of connoisseurs searching them out in specialist wine stores. “We’re not expecting Swiss wines to appear in Waitrose, M&S or Sainsburys,” Hardy professed. “It’s part of the conundrum of Swiss wines – relatively little exported, hard to find, and local indigenous grapes that nobody has heard of. But with the right selection of wines and with the right event targeting the right potential customer, such as this trade event today, it’s a step in the right direction.” A hugely enjoyable tasting certainly felt like that.

Ch Lagrange vertical tasting 1982-2019

Mathieu Bordes, winemaker and general manager of the 3rd growth, Saint-Julien estate Lagrange, was in town to show a remarkable 11-wine vertical of the grand vin dating as far back as 1982 and including such legendary wines as the 1990 and 2000. Bordes explains in detail how they made the 2016 which he considers one of the best-ever produced, why they were never bothered about Robert Parker’s disdain for the estate, and why two thirds of production at the estate is dedicated to making Les Fiefs, one of Bordeaux’s truly great second wines. Geoffrey Dean reports

By Geoffrey Dean September 22, 2022

When Matthieu Bordes sighs that “Robert Parker hated the Lagrange brand for a long time,” he does so without the slightest regret. “We never sought his marks,” the winemaker and GM for the Saint-Julien third growth continued. “We just try to grow the best grapes on each plant, and we never pick over-ripe.”

Bordes, who celebrates 16 years at Château Lagrange this October, is a native Bordelais and one of the most charismatic vignerons in the Medoc. A supremely capable one too on the evidence of a memorable vertical tasting of the estate’s grand vins going back as far as 1982. That was the last vintage before Lagrange was bought by Suntory, who recruited Marcel Ducasse as general manager to undertake a total restructuring of the property. It was he who lifted Lagrange out of years of mediocrity, and he stayed there until Bordes took over.

How the bar was raised with Lagrange 2016

Ducasse, then, must take credit for vintages up to and including 2006, several of which were majestic, but Bordes has raised the bar even higher in his time. The 2010, 2016 and 2019 are all magnificent wines, with the 2016, in Bordes’ view, being amongst the “two or three best ever produced” at Lagrange. Although it was a hot year, it came in at 13.7% abv and, most significantly, has a pH as low as 3.41. Consequent uber-freshness gives it wonderful harmony and balance, to go with its massive concentration, great length and silky yet powerful tannins.

The 2016 harvest was, apart from 2008, the latest ever known at Lagrange, lasting three weeks and finishing on October 24. A mild, very wet spring – beneficial for budburst – luckily featured a dry break in the same week that flowering occurred (only a few days later than the 20-year average). The mid-July heat, which peaked at 33°C to 38°C for four days, caused Bordes to suspend leaf-plucking and the vines to shut down for a period. After a hot August, hydric stress was alleviated by timely rain on September 12. An Indian summer led all of the Cabernet Sauvignon plots to reach optimum ripeness.

Cool nights were the key, aiding acid retention and pushing the pH down from its habitual level of 3.5. By contrast, in 2010, it reached 3.6, a record high. Only now, in Bordes’ view, has the 2010 reached the beginning of its tasting window. “If we’d tasted the 2010 four years ago, it would not have been approachable,” he mused, “but the 2016 is already approachable, although it will certainly continue to improve over the next few years.”

Matthieu Bordes, winemaker for Ch Lagrange

Changes introduced by Matthieu Bordes at Lagrange

One of Bordes’ key decisions in the vinification process has been to reduce the amount of new oak for the grand vin from 80% to between 40% and 50%. The remainder is second fill, although in the last year, he has been experimenting with 5% stainless steel.

Bordes has also steadily increased the amount of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend to between 70 and 80% from what used to be a 50:50 split with Merlot.  Why? “Global warming,” he responded. “Merlot doesn’t age as well, so we are replacing Merlot vines with more and more Cabernet Sauvignon.” Whereas the 2005 was made up of 46% Cabernet, 45% Merlot and 9% Petit Verdot, the 2019 was 80% Cabernet, 18% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot.

Lagrange has more hectares under vine (118, with 110 currently in production) than any other Medoc classed growth. It boasts more than one hundred individual plots, of which two-thirds are Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot makes up 28% and Petit Verdot 5%, while 11 hectares are given over to white varieties (80% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Gris). Bordes revealed he has a single row of Cabernet Franc, as well as a row of Carmenere which he struggles to ripen fully.

Significantly, Bordes can vinify all his red plots separately thanks to 102 small tanks and vats. There were only 56 before he came. “That and our terroir is the key,” he professed. “We have 17 different types of soil, with a lot of gravel which leads to efficient drainage. One of our slopes marks the highest point in the appellation – 24 metres – and the grand vin plots are the higher ones.”

Lagrange: facts and figures

Lagrange does not seek organic certification, but it does follow organic practices in a third of its vineyards. Sustainability and biodiversity are the estate’s watchwords. Sheep graze the cover crop, which is largely grass with wild flowers sown in it. Bee hives and bird boxes have been re-introduced, and no chemical herbicides are used on the domaine. Level 3 of HVE (Haute Valeur Environmentale), the highest form of adherence to environmental practices, is rigorously followed at the insistence of the owners.

Suntory’s commitment to the quality of their grand vin is underlined by the very high percentage of estate fruit that goes into their celebrated second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange. Nowadays, two thirds of Lagrange’s annual crush is generally earmarked for Les Fiefs. Contrast that figure to 1982 when the entire harvest went into the grand vin.  This has an effect on margins of course, but Suntory commendably are not looking to maximize profits. The 2009 Les Fiefs, with its velvety soft tannins, saw 20% new oak and is made from vines with an average age of 30 years.

“Some of the vines for Les Fiefs are as old as 50 years, while the oldest for the grand vin date back to 1952 on what is a Merlot plot,” Bordes revealed. “Les Fiefs is one of the most famous second wines in Bordeaux. We could make less of it and more grand vin, but the owners don’t want that.”

Depending on the yield, Lagrange’s annual production is 200-250,000 bottles of grand vin and more than 350,000 bottles of Les Fiefs.” Yields have varied over the last few years: 35hl/ha in 2021, 26 in 2020, 49 in 2019 and 36 in 2018. Bordes expects 38-40 from the 2022 harvest.

As for markets, France remains the biggest, with a 23% share, followed by the United States and Japan. Both the UK and China import 5%, and it is clear Lagrange would be happy to see the former’s share increase. Equally evident is the quality and value that both their grand vin and second wine offer drinkers.

The wines tasted on the day

Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2009 (57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 8% Malbec): Bordes considers the second wine ready after 3-4 years but says it will last 20.

Lagrange 2019 (80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot): record-breaking levels of sunshine, and ‘the longest harvest and the richest grapes in the domaine’s modern history’ in Bordes’ words. ‘It reminds me of 2009 as there is no dryness or harshness. It will take its place among our iconic vintages.’ Blackcurrant, black cherry and liquorice notes with silky tannins.

Lagrange 2016 (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot): a great vintage memorable for the low berry weights (30% below the average of the previous years). Only 22 mm of rain between 23 June and 12 Sept. Complex and dense with beautiful harmony and balance (13.7% abv)

Lagrange 2015 (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot): another fine vintage if not in the same class as 2016. An excess of rain in September obliged Bordes to employ reverse osmosis to extract some water. Full-bodied, yet elegant with ripe, velvety tannins.

Lagrange 2010 (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot): ‘unprecedented concentration of tannins of extreme fineness’ according to Bordes. Non-stop sunshine from May ’til the end of October, but cool nights as a rule. Late picking due to the drought. Deep colour with powerful structure, notable concentration and many layers of complexity.

Lagrange 2005 (46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot): a ‘superlative’ year in Bordes’ view. Less powerful than the 2010 with extremely soft, well-integrated tannins. As he puts it, ‘the mid-palate is suave with a pleasant freshness, the whole presents harmony and rare elegance worthy of the greatest wines of Saint-Julien.’

Lagrange 2003 (57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot): heatwave conditions in June, July and August, before beneficial early September rain. Thanks to the estate’s second earliest harvest, which started on 11 Sept, the abv was only 13%. No acidification necessary. Beautiful complexity and opulence.

Lagrange 2000 (59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot): jasmine/minty aromas and more tertiary notes with cigar box, cedar and leather. Super silky tannins. Stunning.

Lagrange 1996 (57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot): ‘beautifully noble with great tannic strength’ as Bordes put it. A superb vintage. Cigar box and tobacco, with smoky notes and jasmine. Chaptalisation required to get it to 13% abv, which underlines how the climate has changed.

Lagrange 1990 (44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot): legendary vintage, the first to include some Petit Verdot.

Lagrange 1982 (52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot): still a special wine if slightly past its best. Interestingly, all the fruit went into the grand vin with no Les Fiefs made. There was a huge yield as no green harvest was carried out (unlike 1990, which is showing better).

Plaimont's fight against global warming

How Plaimont is leading the fight against climate change in SW France

The Saint Mont wine region in SW France was ‘lost’ 40 years ago – turning out cheap Tannat-based wine and spirits with many winemakers giving up and moving on to other businesses. André Dubosc changed all that by setting up the Plaimont cooperative that now accounts for 98% of Saint Mont AOC, half of Madiran and Pacherenc du Vic Bilh with well over 600 growers. It is now one of the most transformative and genuinely exciting wine regions in France, reviving forgotten pre-phylloxera grape varieties that can help counter global warming and a renewed focus on old vines, premium sites and ancient varieties. Geoffrey Dean travelled to the region, attended the third Saint Mont Amelographic Days Conference and heard first-hand from Plaimont’s chief winemaker and managing director Olivier Bourdet-Pees about the exciting changes taking place.

By Geoffrey Dean August 18, 2022

“To borrow a footballing analogy, the Saint Mont region has risen from non-league status to the Premier League, and moreover are top-half-of-the-table challengers,” writes Dean.

André Dubosc, credited for having set Plaimont on its revolutionary course, June 21, 2022

Global warming’s inexorable advance, which saw England record 40°C for the first time in its history in mid-July, is now so acute that Plaimont’s actions in countering it are coming into ever sharper focus. The leading French co-operative, situated in Gascony in the south-west where it has 5,300 hectares under vine and 600 growers, has for years been promulgating the use, or re-use, of new or old varietals that can cope better with ‘le rechauffement climatique’. By chance, The Buyer, which has long championed Plaimont’s cause, was invited back to the region just before the summer heatwave began in Europe. Happily, there is ever encouraging news about Plaimont’s excellent range of premium wines and its research.

Olivier Bourdet-Pees: “We find ourselves in an emergency situation.”

The battle against global warming

Plaimont’s research crystallised in the form of a third Saint Mont AOC Ampelographic Days conference to follow the ones held in 2011 and 2016.  Plaimont’s charismatic head winemaker and managing director, Olivier Bourdet-Pees, got straight to the point.

“We find ourselves today reeling from two difficult years which have probably changed the course of world history,” he declared. “Climate disasters are on the rise all over the world, as if to have us better appreciate the scale of the emergencies we are going to have to face in the future. Turning our attention to viticulture, the two years of extreme weather (heatwave in 2020, then frost and excess water in 2021) that we have just experienced make it all the more urgent for us to build our arsenal of solutions to meet the challenges ahead. So, since we find ourselves in an emergency situation, we had better move swiftly ahead.”

Plaimont, though, presciently began its battle against global warming two decades or so ago. Ancient varieties, rediscovered by them, such as Tardif, Manseng Noir and Morenoa (a cousin of the two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc) are producing some very palatable wines, while new varietals with no name are showing real potential. Several of them were blended in a deliberately anonymous label entitled Né Sous X (“Born as X”), whose first vintage was 2021. Coming in at 11.8% abv, it cannot be sold commercially before 2024 or 2025. The newly named varietals in it are Pédebernade 5 and Dubosc 1&2, along with the obscure Chacolis and Négret de Banhars.

Tardif, as befits its name, has been confirmed to be a late-ripening varietal by tests carried out since 2008.  A key characteristic is its aromatic nature, caused primarily by a concentration of Rotundone, the compound discovered by the AWRI [Australian Wine Research Institute] to give Syrah/Shiraz its peppery notes. It is intensely coloured with smooth tannins and is low in alcohol.

There are no records of a varietal named Tardif in ampelography literature, either on a national or local level, but the INRA (Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique) Vassal collection of 1949 in south-west France features it.  In 2002, two ungrafted vines in the Pédebernade family’s ancient ‘historical vineyards’ plot of a hectare in the Sarragachies commune in Gers were positively identified as ‘Tardif N’ from Vassal. Propagations of these were used to plant the seven hectares of Tardif that Plaimont currently has under vine.

“We know Tardif is potentially a fantastic grape but we are now fighting the INAO [Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité] to have it incorporated within the AOP,” says Marc Vachet, Plaimont’s sales manager.

The INAO has finally agreed to back it as a varietal of interest but they are only allowing it to constitute a maximum of 5% of all vineyard plantings and no more than 10% in a Saint Mont AOC red blend. Moreover, they have insisted on another 10 years of experimentation to be carried out, an excessively long period in the view of growers as global warming intensifies. A new research project named ‘Pepper your Wine’ is being carried out under the guidance of Olivier Geoffroy from the IFV [Institut Français de la Vigne et du Vin] in the hope that Saint Mont AOC growers can plant and cultivate Tardif alongside Tannat to achieve the freshness, smoothness and richness they aim for.

Nadine Raymond, Plaimont winemaker, by her 1975-planted Tannat vines

As for Manseng Noir, its key characteristic is arguably its naturally low levels of alcohol. Its genetic ties are not to other Mansengs (such as Gros and Petit) but to Tannat, Dubosc 1 and Négret de Banhars. It was reintroduced in Plaimont’s 2015 plantings, and is currently grown on 46 hectares, mainly around Condom.

“It gives another expression of the terroir here,” said Bourdet-Pees. “You get damson notes and a bit of spice but it’s not really peppery. All the people are fond of it. It’s very aromatic with nice acidity and thick skins yet soft tannins. You can blend it or use it as a single varietal. Typically, it is 12% abv.”

André Dubosc, the grand old vigneron of the area who has done so much to establish it as a brand, recalled how Emile Peynaud, revered as the forefather of modern oenology, gave him the belief and encouragement he needed.

“We were surrounded by Madiran, so a little forgotten,” he sighed. “Gers was only about Armagnac. But I had the desire to recreate Saint Mont, and did my studies on all the vineyards in France and knew great wines potentially could be everywhere – especially down here. But I had to persuade my fellow farmers that they must make either wine or Armagnac from the same grapes, but not both. History was my point of reference, and Peynaud gave me the inspiration as the master who respected everyone. The grandees in Bordeaux all laughed but he knew what was going on here.”

The ancient vineyard at Sarragachies where 21 confirmed pre-phylloxera varieties were discovered

The ‘history’ that Dubosc talks of is something nowhere else in France has: its magnificent old pre-phylloxera vineyard in Sarragachies that has been accorded the status of ‘national monument.’ French denomination is “Monument Historique”. What makes it unique is that it is the only plant-based national entity to be so recognised. Planted in 1871, its sandy soils were its protection against the phylloxera aphid. The vines, still ungrafted on their own roots, have been lovingly cared for by the owners, the Péderbernade family. All have been genetically tested, with 21 varieties confirmed, including Tannat, Tardif and Pinenc. Those with no prior identity have been named after the family, being given numbers of 1 to 7. The plot, surrounded by century-old fig trees, is deeply symbolic of the Saint Mont AOC’s remarkable genetic heritage.

Some varieties have still not been identified and bear the name of the family that owned the vineyard

From “producing the worst wine in France forty years ago” – Bourdet-Pees’ words – the region, following Plaimont’s foundation in 1979, is now making some of the best premium wines by a co-operative in France. To borrow a footballing analogy, they have risen from non-league status to the Premier League, and moreover are top-half-of-the-table challengers.

“The people were willing to change from nothing to build this co-op,” Bourdet-Pees continued. “There was nothing here – we were the worst. André was the very first to say to people we have to work together to rebuild this appellation. They believed in him and look at the results. Research is fundamental to the project – we must do it for ourselves. It used to be that the best students went to Bordeaux and stayed there, while the worst came back. Now we have something to offer the best.”

Barrel room at Ch de Sabazan

And it certainly shows in the wines, whose élevage is carefully monitored by Bourdet-Pees. His selection and use of barrels is meticulous, with no more than 30% new oak employed. “The choice of oak is very important,” he said. “We use first-fill barriques from Bordeaux where we know the origin. And I do like barrels from Burgundy and Beaujolais. I don’t know why they are the best – maybe it’s the freshness of the fruit.”

Freshness is perhaps the overriding characteristic of Plaimont’s wines. If the region is the worst in France for downy and powdery mildew owing to annual rainfall of 1100 mm, Bourdet-Pees thinks the same rain helps provide freshness.  That, and the varietals being grown, should combine to help maintain Plaimont’s continued success.

6 of the best premium Plaimont wines tasted 

Cirque Nord Grande Cuvée 2016

70% Gros Manseng, 20 Petit Manseng, 10 Petit Courbu 

Fabulous freshness, fruit and texture from this north-facing two-hectare plot on argilo-calcaire soils with big pebbles. Bourdet-Pees considers it his best spot for white production, although INAO initially refused to give it appellation status when Saint Mont became an AOC in 2011 on the basis it was too cold. They reversed their decision in 2014 when shown the wines. Old oak only used for élevage. Twelve months on the lees helps give complex nuances of almond and honey blossom with a hint of toastiness. Pear and peach notes with some nuttiness on a long spice finish. A complex wine with potential to develop further. The 2017 (50% Gros Manseng, 25 Petit Manseng & 25 Petit Courbu) also has wonderful intensity of flavour, with spice, honey and pineapple notes. 13.5% abv

Château de Sabazan 2018

Tannat-dominant blend, also including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinenc

Nadine Raymond, director of the Cave des Vignerons de Saint Mont, has played an integral role in reviving the winemaking heritage of the appellation. She oversees this old vineyard, whose Tannat vines were planted in 1975, on Riparia rootstocks to reduce the varietal’s natural vigour. Exceptionally low yields here of 10hl/ha from sandy soils, with no herbicides employed. A low pH of 3.5 or 3.6 helps enhance freshness, while a very gentle maceration and a fermentation temperature of 25C ensures no over-extraction. Open top fermenters help reduce alcohol levels. Elegant tannins and appetising red and black fruit. 14% abv

La Madeleine de Saint Mont 2018

90% Tannat, 8 Cabernet Franc, 2 Pinenc

Very attractive red fruit with plum and cherry notes predominating. Lots of freshness with vibrant acidity, with overt but well-integrated tannins that provide structure for long ageing. The balance between fruit, acidity, tannins and alcohol (14%) is exemplary. A complex wine. 14% abv

Le Faîte Rouge, Saint Mont 2017

Another predominantly Tannat blend with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinenc. Very appealing red cherry fruit with blackberry and earthy notes. Complex and long, yet so fresh with beautifully integrated tannins. Elegant and refined with the structure to go with it. 14% abv

Le Faîte Blanc, Saint Mont 2018

Gros Manseng (65%, vinified in old barrels), Petit Courbu and Petit Manseng (both tank). 

The latter is another rediscovered grape that really adds to the blend in Bourdet-Pees’ view. “Arrufiac was almost abandoned, but now they are replanting it,” he said. “By itself, it isn’t good as it’s tannic and bitter, but if you have it, the expression of Gros Manseng is better. Arrufiac gives salinity on the finish too.” The wine, thanks to a pH as low as 3.0, is supremely refreshing, with a herbal, spicy nose and intense grapefruit and pineapple notes with a touch of honey and wax. 13.5% abv

L’Empreinte de Saint Mont, 2017

Very similar assemblage to the Le Faîte Blanc. Another classy blend with fresh citrus, apple and quince notes with saline minerality. Once again, the alcohol is balanced by vibrant acidity. Such drinkability with notable length. 13.5% abv

THE 3RD SAINT MONT AMPELOGRAPHIC DAYS CONFERENCE (20/21 JUNE, 2022)

Held on June 20 and 21, 2022, the 3rd Saint Mont Ampelographic Days Conference had an impressive line-up of speakers and subject material:

• The wild Lambrusque vine & the domestication of the vine (by Thierry Lacombe, INRA Vassal, Supagro Montpellier)

• Plant material: an overview of the latest knowledge (Laurent Audeguin, Innovation Research, IFV)

• From one Piedmont to another – vine diversity in the shadow of the Italian Alps (Anna Schneider, Italian National Research Council)

• Exploring the great indigenous varieties of Armenia (Jean-Baptiste Soula, winemaker in Armenia)

• A winemaker & grape variety from Gascony to the great terroirs of Sonoma Valley (Pierre Seillan, creator of Vérité wines in Sonoma)

• Native grape varieties and creation of varietals to adapt to new challenges, with Audeguin, Raymond, Pierre Citerne (anthropologist), Eric Serrano (IFV) & Pierre Matayron (farmer).

The wines of Lake Garda

Production of both Lake Garda wine and the amount of growers has quadrupled over the past five years. The area is led by a bullish Garda DOC that wants to up production to 40 million bottles per annum, and promote its 10 appellations and range of wines to the outside world. Geoffrey Dean visited the region and samples the impressive wines of Vigneti Villabella, Pratello, Santa Sofia, Ricchi, Perla del Garda and Tommasi and tries to get under the skin of what makes this region so unique.

By Geoffrey DeanJuly 14, 2022

“Freshness is assisted by a near-permanent breeze off the lake, with lowish pHs a common denominator in Lake Garda wine,” writes Dean.

For most wine drinkers around the world, Lake Garda is somewhere very nice you go to on holiday. The biggest lake in Italy at 370 square kms, it dwarfs nearby Lake Como, being 52 km long and 16 km across at its widest point. Its perimeter is 158km – almost exactly the same distance as that of the M25 encircling London.

However, the Lake Garda DOC was founded in 1996 with the aim of promoting the varietal wines of the 10 designations of the Garda area between Lombardy and Veneto. These include two very well-known appellations in Soave and Valpolicella as well as familiar ones in Lugana and Bardolino. The other six don’t exactly trip off the tongue: Colli Mantovani, Custoza, Monti Lessini, Riviera Valtenesi, San Martino della Battaglia and Valdadige Terradeiforti. Varietals that are especially representative are Trebbiano, Garganega, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Corvina, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Production of Lake Garda wine has shot up in the last five years from 4.5 million bottles per annum in 2016 to around 20 million by 2021. Quality has also improved, and not without some justification does Paolo Fiorini, the president of Garda DOC, proclaim “we believe this appellation is ready to make a big leap from not just a place for holidays but also great wine.”

Certainly, the area appears to have the capacity to increase production further and provide the volume that multiples and indies alike may want. A total of 969 growers in the DOC in 2016 has swelled to 3,962 by last year, and in the Cantina di Soave, the region possesses one one of the biggest and best cooperatives in Italy.

The director of the consorzio, Carlo Alberto Panont, declared that the objective is to double production to 40 million bottles per annum. “We currently export 80%, but I want to increase that percentage,” he said. “Our main markets are Germany, UK, Scandinavia and the USA.”

For those not fully aware of the Garda DOC’s production area, it is a predominantly hilly landscape around the lake, stretching from Valtenesi in the west to Valpolicella in the east, from the Mincio river to the city of Verona.  Of the area under vine (31,100 hectares), as much as 27,889 ha are in the province of Verona, with the remainder in the provinces of Brescia and Mantua.

So much for its geography and beautiful location. What about the Lake Garda wines?

The locals love to tell you that the majority of Lake Garda wines are characterised by softness, fruitiness and freshness. “Garda is land of light,” Panont declared. “And light, or rare luminosity is the natural factor that makes the production area around the lake a Mediterranean enclave at the foot of the Alps. The effect of the light refraction, amplified by the large area of water, produces the sensation of a friendly climate.” Freshness is assisted by a near-permanent breeze off the lake, with lowish pHs a common denominator.

Drinkability, therefore, is the watchword of Garda DOC wines. Vigneti Villabella, a winery near Bardolino, produces elegant, fresh and expressive Pinot Grigios, with the 2021 vintage available through Tordoff Wines near Southampton. A really good Trebbiano is made by Santa Sofia, whose UK importer is Mondial Wine in Surrey.

Giovanna Prandini with her sparkling wine

Meanwhile, Giovanna Prandini, owner of the Perla del Garda winery in Lugana, is seeking UK distribution. Her two sparklings, both made by the traditional method, showed superbly, with the non-vintage Blanc de Blancs spending 20 months on the lees and the 2009 vintage, also 100% Chardonnay, 72 months with zero dosage.

Likewise, Azienda Ricchi, situated to the south of Lake Garda, makes an excellent still Chardonnay named Meridiano and is also looking for a British importer.

One of the most dynamic wineries in Garda DOC is Pratello, which is located to the west of the lake in Valtenesi. Owner Vincenzo Bertola, and his daughter Naike, make a most impressive range of wines, some of which are available through Berkmann. “Our aim is to obtain a salty finish, which is a key character for our whites and reds,” Naike says. “We are certified organic, and have a lot of cows in the vineyards. For us, the synergy between animals and the vineyards is super important. They give us a fantastic biodiversity to the soil. With our Rosés, we hope to give a specific ID to Lake Garda DOC.”

Naike Bertola with her Pratello Riesling

Pratello, whose total production is around 700,000 bottles per annum, makes an excellent Riesling from vines planted on poor morainic soils in the 1970s by Naike’s grandfather. The 2016 has developed petrol and honeyed notes to add to the citrus of more recent years. The winery’s range of sparkling wines includes a Rosé, made by the single fermentation ‘methode ancestrale,’ as well as a fine traditional method Blanc de Blancs from 95% Chardonnay and 5% Erbamat, a rarely-found local variety that is very high in acidity. Labelled Donna Caterina, it spends 36 months on the lees and has a dosage of 2 g/l.

Completing Pratello’s range are a pair of Garda Rosso DOC reds from the Rebo grape, a cross of Merlot and Teroldego. The Nero per Sempre 2018 label (or ‘black forever’) was named this because Vincenzo “wanted something deep, pure and intense.” Soft tannins, typical of Rebo, make this very approachable, even if 40 days of raisining of the grapes in the cellar give it notable richness. A ‘no sulphites added’ Rebo from 2020 is made quite differently, being lighter and fresher.

A special word for Tommasi

Rich Amarone wines are a hallmark of Tommasi, one of the leading wineries in Valpolicella. The company has vineyards all over Italy, and export manager, Giorgio Scarsella, is keen to increase exports of their Montalcino labels through its UK importers, MMD in London. Tommasi already sends to Britain some 15,000 bottles per annum of their good everyday drinker, Casisano Rosso di Montalcino, but would like to get more uptake of their lower premium label, Casisano Brunello di Montalcino.  From vines grown at 520 metres, which yield 6.2 tons per hectare, the 2015 vintage was aged in large second and third-fill Slavonian oak vessels for two and a half years, and is drinking beautifully now.

Pierangelo Tommasi

Everything about Tommasi oozes excellence, from its own spa hotel near Verona named Villa Quaranta to its wines at all levels and executive director Pierangelo Tommasi. He oversees a total annual production of around two million bottles from its various Italian DOCs which, from next year, will also include Umbria and Sicily. Nearly 90% of Tommasi’s wines are exported to 70 markets, but he believes there is capacity for an increase of 15% if distribution is improved.

Giorgio Scarsella in front of the Magnifica

The three Amarone labels we tasted over lunch positively sang: the Amarone Classico 2018, the super premium CaFlorian Riserva 2013 and the iconic Deburis 2010. And no report on Tommasi would be complete without mention of their 33,300-litre Slavonian oak foudre, certified by the Guinness Book of Records as the largest in the world still in practical use. Made by Garbellotto in 2010, it took six months to be produced, and is known as the ‘Magnifica.’ A suitable epithet for all things Tommasi.

Loire Valley visit May 2022

Tasting special: the impressive current state of Loire Valley wines

Geoffrey Dean spent four days travelling throughout the Loire – visiting estates and tasting Loire wines from Vouvray, Saumur-Champigny, Muscadet, Touraine, Anjou and many more regions. Here he picks out the domaines and wines that impressed him the most as well as discover how the Loire is making great strides both in organic viticulture and sustainability. Despite a 31% drop in volume for the 2021 harvest, the quality is excellent, and exports have risen from France’s third largest French AOP wine region.

By Geoffrey Dean June 22, 2022

“2021 is true to the great Loire vintages – fresh and crisp, with good acidity for the sparkling wines as well as good density and excellent aromas and flavours for the still wines.”

Impressive statistics bombard you when you visit the Loire Valley. It is, you are reminded, the largest AOP vineyard area for white wines in France; the largest AOP vineyard area for Rosé wines in the country; and the largest AOP area for sparkling wine there (excluding Champagne). Vines were first planted in the Loire as far back as the fifth century, and it is now the third biggest French AOP wine region by volume, with 280 million AOP/IGP bottles sold every year in 160 different countries.

Ambitious target: Sylvain Naulin

Ambitious target: Sylvain Naulin

What is especially compelling is the newest statistic released by generic trade body InterLoire, namely that over 20% of the region’s vineyards are now certified organic. In 2021, almost 65% of vineyards were sustainably or organically farmed. The InterLoire CEO, Sylvain Naulin, has set wineries an ambitious target of attaining 100% certified ‘green’ labels by 2030. That may be as unrealistic as the UK government’s stated plan of having 100% electric car sales by the same year, but you have to applaud InterLoire for its intent. The message is clear: the association and the majority of its 3,600 growers, 430 negociants and 21 co-operatives are wedded to the concept of sustainability.

The Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) certification forms the basis behind the sustainability drive. Promoting good, environmentally friendly practices across three levels, the highest – level 3 – is based on indicators such as respect for biodiversity, a strategy to counter insect pests and sound management of fertiliser and irrigation. The most basic, level 1, certifies that a grower has a basic knowledge of “sustainable” cultivation. Levels 2 and 3 are certified by a body approved by the Ministry of Agriculture.

While exports have risen by 18% in value in the last five years, they are slightly down in that time to the UK which still remains the second biggest export market after the USA. The recent typical annual turnover of Loire wines – €1.3 billion – is set to fall, however, after yields for the 2021 harvest were down 31% on the 5-year average. Frosts were chiefly to blame for the drop, which was marked for Sauvignon Blanc and Melon de Bourgogne.

According to Pierre-Jean Sauvion, chair of the InterLoire communication panel, “the end of the growing season in August and September gave us very good levels of ripeness. 2021 is true to the great Loire vintages – fresh and crisp, with good acidity for the sparkling wines as well as good density and excellent aromas and flavours for the still wines. The sweet wines are velvety with a deliciously lifted structure and are bursting with tropical fruit flavours.”

So which are the estates to keep an eye on?

The Buyer experienced an expansive tasting of Loire wines and recent vintages during a four-day spring visit to the region. A plethora of producers from Vouvray, Saumur-Champigny, Muscadet, Touraine, Anjou and elsewhere showed a multitude of excellent wines, offering some of the best value in France.

Liv Vincendeau

One Cremant de Loire that really stood out was the biodynamically-certified Domane Vincendeau Loiregold 2020 from Anjou. Made from 100% Chenin Blanc grapes by Liv Vincendeau, an engaging Franco-German, this has wonderful volcanic nervous energy with 4g/l dosage, and is imported into the UK by Vagabond. Meanwhile, another Cremant to impress, the Dumnacus Blanc Brut 2017, is stocked by Liberty. Comprised of 68% Chenin Blanc, 17% Chardonnay, 13% Grolleau and 2% Cabernet Franc, this spent four years on the lees.

Carolien Meuree

Liberty also takes a large allocation of two good mid-market labels from Saumur-Champigny producer, Les Sables Verts. “Les Poyeux” 2020 (100% Cabernet Franc) and “Les Roueres” 2020 (100% Chenin Blanc) are skilfully fashioned by a young pair of winemakers, Caroline Meuree and Herve Malinge, who met while studying in Bordeaux. The former, which comes from 70-year old vines yielding just 38 hl/ha, sees only stainless steel and retains lovely, elegant fruit expression with pure, dusty tannins. The white, matured in 50% new 12hl foudres, has fabulous intensity and length as well as minimal sulphur dioxide levels for those with a low tolerance (23mg/l free and 32mg/l total SO2).

Vanessa Cherruau

Another cracking Chenin Blanc, from Anjou producer Chateau de Plaisance’s Ronceray label, is imported by Lea & Sandeman. Vanessa Cherrueau, a larger-than-life character with a permanent smile on her face, farms biodynamically in Rochefort sur Loire, and has crafted a wine with lovely intensity and length. She ferments in older oak with wild yeasts.

Emanuel Ogereau

Emanuel Ogereau, winemaker for renowned Anjou estate, Domaine Ogereau, likewise crafted a superb example of Chenin Blanc with his ‘La Martiniere’ 2020. “We are rediscovering dry Chenin Blanc in a sweet region,” Ogereau said. “Anjou is rising and our geology is very interesting with a lot of different soils. For example, on the left bank of the Layon river, we have vineyards on ancient decomposed schist; on the right bank, we have volcanic rock.”

Isabella Meuli

Two English female assistant winemakers have been helping to produce some notable white wines from the region: Camilla Murray, at biodynamically-certified Chateau de Chaintres in Saumur, and Isabella Meuli, at Ampelidae, an organically-certified IGP Val de Loire producer in Neuville-de-Poitou. The former’s ‘Clos des Oratories’ 2020 label showed superbly, coming from ultra low-yielding 90-year old Chenin Blanc vines on an estate owned by the same family for the last 95 years. “It’s a beautiful half-hectare parcel,” Murray said. “We used wild yeasts, added very little SO2 as the pH was 3.18 and matured the wine in big old wooden casks and 160-litre terracotta vessels. St. John Wines in London has it.”

Meuli, an ex-insurance broker from London who studied Chinese at university there, “learnt winemaking on the job during several harvests” as she put it, and is working under technical director, Gilles de Bollardier. Ampelidae’s “Le S” Sauvignon Blanc label, grown on tuffeau, limestone, clay and silex soils is a premium example of the varietal, and the estate are hoping to find a UK distributor.

Cabernet Franc, Gamay and… yet more Chenin

While white wines make up 45% of production in the Loire, reds form 19%. A pair of Cabernet Francs from Saumur producer, Domaine du Vieux Pressoir, stood out. The estate, which will be certified organic next year, exports 35% of its 60,000-bottle annual production, with the Graft Wine Company in London being its UK importer. It takes both its ‘Elegance’ 2020 label, which is aged in old oak, and the ‘Origine’ 2019 label (elevage in concrete).

Amelie Neau

Theatre of Wine in London imports another enchanting Cabernet Franc: Domaine de Nerleux’s “Les Loups Noirs” 2018 label. Established as far back as the 16th century, this Saumur-Champigny estate has stayed in the same family, with winemaker Amelie Neau being the ninth generation. 25-year old organically-farmed vines produce seductive red fruit with kirsch notes, while some structure is provided by 10% new oak.

Marie-Francoise Ratron-Galet

The Wine Society stocks another very enticing Cabernet Franc from Saumur Champigny: the Clos des Cordeliers estate’s ‘Prestige’ label, which is made only in the best years from low-yielding vines, now 55-years old, on limestone soils. The 2018, which saw stainless steel and no oak, is only the second vintage made by Marie-Francoise Ratron-Galet after the death of her husband, and yielded just 30hl/ha.

Camilla Murray

Even older Cab Franc vines – planted in 1960 in a walled vineyard – prompting a ‘Vieilles Vignes’ label, provided the fruit for Camilla Murray’s first vintage at Chateau de Chaintres, the excellent 2020.

Benedicte Petit

One of the Loire Valley’s 24 varietals grown is Gamay. A lovely example of it came from an Anjou estate south of Angers – Terra Vita Vinum, a domaine of 30 hectares. Benedicte Petit, the winemaker, uses 30% new oak and 70% stainless steel to craft a label called ‘Chant de la Pierre.’ The 2020 vintage is imbued with freshness and flavoursome red fruit. Both that and the winery’s excellent flagship white label, Grandes Rogeries 2020, made from Chenin Blanc vines on volcanic rock, are available through Robert Rolls in London.

Eddie Oosterlinck

Still in Anjou, Eddie and Mileine Oosterlinck-Bracke, who are originally from Holland, make a complex Chenin from very old vines that are between 60 and 110 years-old, with a very low yield of 15 hl/ha. Their ‘Le Paradis de Juchepie’ label from their estate, Domaine de Juchepie, is fermented in an old basket-press and matured in 50% new and 50% old barriques after going through 100% malolactic fermentation. It is available through Friarwood Fine Wines in Fulham.

Loic Mahe

Friarwood also stocks another top Chenin from Savennieres, made by Loic Mahe, named ‘Les Fougeraies’ 2016. Biodynamically farmed vines on a small plot with a sandy topsoil yield 25hl/ha and wonderfully expressive fruit. Thanks to a pH of 3.05, Mahe is able to add minimal SO2 – just 20mg/l free and 40mg/l total.

Not far away, Evelyne de Pontbriand, owner-winemaker of Domaine du Closel, which is also certified biodynamic, fashions another superb Chenin from low-yielding vines that are 25-70 years of age. Her ‘Clos du Papillon’ 2019 label, named after a fabled site, is available though Lay & Wheeler and the Wine Society.

And finally the stickies…

No discourse on the Loire would be complete without reference to their outstanding stickies. Brompton Wines in London takes a sumptuous sweet Chenin Blanc from Chateau Soucherie in Coteaux de Layon. Vianney de Tastes, the splendidly-named winemaker, revealed that he made three passes through the vines for his 100% botrytised 2015 harvest. Located on schist soils at 120m, they yielded only 12hl/ha, with the wine containing 120g/l of residual sugar.

The yield was even lower for Vouvray producer, Domaine d’Orfeuilles, when it got just 5hl/ha from its then 45-year old vines  for their wonderful Reserve D’Automne Moelleux Blanc 2009 (86g/l RS). For those preferring off-dry, Domaine Huet’s Haut Lieu 2020 (19g/l RS) provided a regal ending to a tasting, as InterLoire likes to proclaim… of “the world’s most diverse range of wines.”

Antinori's Bocca di Lupo

Antinori’s Puglia estate, Bocca di Lupo, breaks free from Tormaresca

Ever since the Antinori empire purchased Bocca di Lupo in 1998 the Puglia estate has helped highlight the exceptional terroir to be found in the region. Now the decision has been made for it to break free from its sister winery of Tormaresca so that the Castel del Monte and Salento areas can be highlighted and appreciated for their character and distinctive identity, and can each bask in their own glory. Geoffrey Dean had lunch with the Antinori team to discuss the changes and taste the new vintages.

By Geoffrey Dean June 15, 2022
“The Antinori family’s purchase of Bocca di Lupo was another case – maybe even the best – of redeeming marvellous terroir.”

Drinkers of Bocca di Lupo, the iconic Puglia brand owned by the Antinori family, will note a new label and logo on the latest release of their flagship Aglianico from the Castel del Monte DOC. A collection of UK-based sommeliers as well as The Buyer were invited to a London restaurant to taste the 2018 vintage at what was an official launch of Tenuta Bocca di Lupo’s “solo journey – its separation from its sister winery of Tormaresca.”

The two estates had previously been under the Tormaresca umbrella, sharing the same logo. Older vintages feature Tormaresca at the bottom of the main label, but the 2018 one does not, and has a new lupine logo. The explanation for the change, according to Emanuele Barrasso, the Antinori brand manager at its UK distributor, Berkmann Cellars, is “because Bocca di Lupo and Tormaresca produce wines which are different and, from a trade perspective, ‘speak’ to different clients.”

The invited trade were able to taste, over lunch, three vintages of the Bocca di Lupo Aglianico – 2006, 2014 and 2018. Also tasted were two other Bocca di Lupo labels – their Fiano 2018, Puglia IGT and Pietrabianca Chardonnay 2019, Castel del Monte DOC – as well as the Tormaresca Furia di Calafuria Rosato 2021, Salento IGT.

Vito Palumbo

Vito Palumbo, brand manager for Bocca di Lupo, was keen to push Puglia’s merits as a multi-varietal wine-producing region. “We want to challenge the bias against Puglia,” he said. “To show we can make wines with freshness, acidity and balance. To put Puglia back on the map, and being recognised as somewhere where wines of quality and character are made. Our aim is to be considered as good as a region like Piemonte.”

Aglianico has, of course, earned the sobriquet of the ‘Barolo of the South’ on account of its high levels of tannin and acidity. Despite the former factor, the 2018 is already very approachable with soft, fine-grained tannins along with notes of chocolate, plum, spice and leather. “We want to give a silky finish to our tannins,” Palumbo continued. “Everything we do is to wear velvet gloves over an iron fist. So our fermentation temperature is a maximum 26C, and we take out the pips which we used to leave.” Whereas the 2006 saw 50% Hungarian oak, the 2014 and 2018 are matured in 100% French oak.

With Bocca di Lupo and Tormaresca between them producing three million bottles from 450 hectares under vine, Palumbo feels that the former’s Fiano label has an important role in pushing local identity. “We want to experiment with Fiano,” he added. “We leave it for ten months in big 500-litre oak vessels, of which 50% are new.” This oak regime helps to add structure to its full body and waxy texture. Appealing floral and almond notes made it a very pleasurable accompaniment to the Orkney scallops we ate it with

Equally palatable was the premium-quality rose Furia di Calafuria 2021 with its light, Provencal-like colour. A blend of three grapes – Negro Amaro (50%), Cabernet Franc (30%) and Syrah (20%) – it retails at €30 in Italy. “Puglia is well-known for its rose, which is like a religion there,” Palumbo declared. “In fact, the first Italian rose in Italy was made in Puglia in 1946. We decided to make this Furia rose the same colour as those from Provence, so there was less than three hours of skin contact. It has some spiciness and creaminess from the Cabernet Franc, as well as a bit of salinity. It is incredibly popular in Puglia, which is why only 35% of the production is exported.”

The Antinori family’s purchase of Bocca di Lupo in 1998 was, as Piero Antinori wrote, “another case – maybe even the best – of redeeming marvellous terroir.” Very poor soils with sea fossils, unlike the rest of Puglia, which is largely limestone, underpinned his reasoning, and now more than two decades later, his renowned head winemaker, Renzo Cotarella, gives his take on the investment.

“I believe we have had excellent results in Puglia in terms of quality of wine but also as a major contributor to the reputation of the region. Now that we can celebrate Puglia’s renewed allure, we believe that the areas we invested in [Castel del Monte and Salento] deserve to be highlighted and appreciated for their character and distinctive identity. We want each estate to bask in its own glory.” On the basis of the London tasting in May, they have every right to do so.

A Pinot matured at 3048m

The tale of Pino 3000: a 3-country Pinot blend matured at 3048m

We’ve seen wines matured underwater, in deserts, old mines and now, with Pino 3000, there is a wine that is matured in barriques at 3048 metres up an Austrian mountain. Sounding like an 80s pop band, Pino 3000 is a wacky Pinot Noir blend of wines made in Germany, Italy and Austria which are then blended and left to mature in their lofty perch. EU legislation forbids it being called Pinot Noir (naturally) but the effect of making the wine has had quite an impact on the winemakers as Geoffrey ‘Broadsword’ Dean discovered when he took the cable car up the mountain to Das Central.

By Geoffrey DeanMay 21, 2022

“During Covid when the gondola was not operating, the only way to get to the restaurant to top up the barrels of Pino 3000 was to climb the mountain on foot,” writes Dean.

Joachim Heger, one of Germany’s most celebrated winemakers, sat back as we talked at 3,048 metres (exactly 10,000 feet) by a glacier in the Austrian Alps and mused that “this exercise has been really, really interesting as it has changed my philosophy on winemaking.” He was not referring to a day’s skiing, but to a highly unusual experiment between himself and two other leading winemakers from Austria and Italy – Paul Achs and Wolfgang Tratter.

The story of their creation – a label named “Pino 3000” – is a bizarre one but worth telling. In 2010, the wine-obsessed owner of the Das Central hotel in the Austrian ski resort of Sölden, hatched an ambitious idea. This was to procure a three-country assemblage of premium Pinot Noirs from Baden, Burgenland and Alto Adige and mature the blend in barriques in their ‘Ice Q’ restaurant at 3,048 metres on the Gaislachkogel Mountain before bottling it. Under EU law, they could not call it Pinot, so they dropped the T and settled for Pino 3000 rather than the less catchy Pino 3048.

Paul Achs, Angelina Falkner, Joachim Heger and Michael Waschl in the maturation cellar at the Ice Q restaurant

Being well-connected, Angelika Falkner, the hotel owner, had little difficulty in persuading Heger, Achs and Tratter to sign up to the concept, with the three providing a brace of barrels each from their 2011 harvest. These were transported to Tratter’s Alto Adige winery, St. Pauls, where he blended the three wines in tank, racked them back into barrels and drove them over the border to Sölden and up the mountain to the restaurant. After a year’s maturation there, the barrels were taken back to Alto Adige, where the wines were bottled and then returned to the restaurant for cellaring there.

Always keeping a fatherly eye on the barrels at the restaurant has been the Das Central general manager, Michael Waschl, a wine fanatic, who deserves much credit for regularly topping them up, especially during Covid when the gondola was not operating. The only way to get to the restaurant was to climb the mountain on foot. He did so umpteen times.

Every year since 2011, the triumvirate of distinguished winemakers has provided a couple of barrels of their Pinot Noir, with Tratter handling the blending. The Das Central Hotel invites them at the end of every skiing season to their annual 3-day wine and gourmet festival called “Wein am Berg” (“Wine on the mountain”) along with a bevy of Austria’s top winemakers, who bring a selection of their wines. It is, therefore, a celebration not just of the Pino 3000 label, various vintages of which get tasted, but of many of Austria’s best wines.

Heger, whose Baden Pinot Noirs are much sought after, says the tripartite blend has taught him a lot. “My own production has benefited from this joint venture,” he declared. “Why? Because I am coming more and more to a fresher style. In the beginning, we started with a higher percentage of new oak but now we use less – just one new barrel out of four, with one a 500-litre tonneau.”

Achs is no less positive. “There is slight micro-oyygenation in the barrel, while the cooler conditions help to bring fruit and elegance,” he said. “The other good thing is that the amount of sulphur dioxide addition is less. The SO2 levels are quite low as the wine is very stable – about 40 mg/l free, and 80-85 mg/l total depending on the pH. It’s very important the residual sugar is below 2 g/l, while we aim for alcohol of 13-13.5%. It’s been a lot of fun and very interesting. I provide fruit from nearly always the same blocks at maybe 150m. Joachim’s fruit is from lower, while Wolfgang’s is much higher. The big challenge is climate change as if it gets too warm the grapes can ripen a bit quick.”

Because the wine comes from three countries, Pino 3000 cannot even have a vintage on the label under EU law. Instead, each year is listed on the back label as a lot number: so L11 for 2011, L12 for 2012 etc. A tasting of 2011 revealed a very light colour, an elegant wine with appealing raspberry and cherry fruit with lovely soft tannins and notable freshness. The 2020, which was tasted ex-barrel, had gorgeous red fruit and very suave tannins with real finesse. In short, the oldest and the youngest of the Pino 3000s both showed particularly well as did other mid-decade vintages.

Paul Achs and Joachim Heger

To taste Pino 3000, though, connoisseurs will have to visit Sölden and buy it with a meal at either Das Central or the Ice Q restaurant on a summer or winter holiday. Or they can do so at the next Wein am Berg festival from April 20-23, 2023. For wine lovers, the latter option is a brilliant opportunity to spend three days and nights in the company of some of Austria’s top winemakers. These include the likes of Stefan Tement, Kurt Feiler, Albert Gesellmann, Axel Stiegelmar (of Juris), Johannes Gross, the Sattler brothers (of Sattlerhof), as well as Brundlmayer general manager Andreas Wickhoff MW, and Rebecca Heger, the new chief winemaker at her father Joachim’s Baden estate.

Anyone visiting the Ice Q restaurant should also pop next door into the Elements 007 James Bond cinematic installation. This was designed by leading Austrian architect Johann Obermoser in collaboration with the art director of recent Bond films, Neal Callow. The state-of-the-art construction, built into the summit of the Gaislachkogl Mountain, focuses on the movie, ‘Spectre’, the Alpine scenes of which were shot a stone’s throw below. Complete with a tech lab, action hall, screening room and legacy gallery, Elements 007 offers a fascinating insight into the production secrets of the Bond franchise.

Six wines that stood out from tastings during the Wein am Berg Festival

Ried Steinriegel Chardonnay 2019, Familie Gesellmann, Burgenland

Alluring grapefruit zest notes with white stone fruit and some citrus. Very fresh acidity with attractive wood spice and nutty nuances. Refined with long and persistent finish. 12.5% abv. (UK distributor TBA).

Solitaire 2018, Feiler-Artinger, Burgenland

Blaufrankisch-led blend with 13% Merlot. Attractive blackberry and cherry fruit with silky tannins and structure from 50% new oak. Terrific intensity with fabulous length. 13.5% abv. (Tanners & Waitrose Cellar)

St. Laurent Reserve 2017, Juris, Burgenland 

Garnet hue with appealing red cherry fruit and spicy notes typical of the St. Laurent grape. Herbal and floral nuances with minerality, freshness and velvety tannins. A touch of salt on a lengthy finish. 13.5% abv. (Savage Wines, Northleach).

Ried Golser, Altenberg Blaufrankisch 2018, Paul Achs, Burgenland

Seductive black cherry fruit with spicy notes and white pepper on the nose. Overt but high quality, well-integrated tannins with a fresh line of acidity. An elegant wine with intensity and length. 14.5% abv. (Seeking UK representation).

Cuvee Kerschbaum 2015, Paul Kerschbaum, Burgenland

A high quality blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%) and Blaufrankisch (20%). Smoky forest aromas with glorious black and red fruit, along with tobacco and spice notes. Comfortably absorbs 100% new oak. Fine, well-meshed tannins and a lengthy finish. 14.5% abv. (Seeking UK representation).

Ried Grassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Weingut Tement, Sudsteiermark DAC

Green pear and nettle aromas with mineral lime notes on the palate. Mouth-watering freshness with a crisp, dry finish. An alluring Sauvignon. 13% abv. (Top Selection, Wandsworth).

Feiler-Artinger: Tanners & Waitrose Cellar

Paul Achs: seeking UK representation

New Zealand London tasting May 2022

Despite shortfalls in supply created by the poor 2021 harvest and issues with shipping, last week’s New Zealand Wine event provided many reasons to be cheerful. Average bottle prices are up, Kiwi Rosé is booming, vineyard acreage is up, the 2022 harvest is back to normal levels and there’s a new trade agreement coming this year. Geoffrey Dean welcomed the event back after two years away, talks to NZ Winegrowers’ Chris Stroud and picks six wines that stood out at the tasting.

By Geoffrey Dean May 8, 2022
Days after New Zealand reopened itself to the rest of the world after two years of border closures to foreign nationals, New Zealand Wine staged its first London trade tasting since 2020 on May 4 at Lindley Hall.

Notwithstanding a global shortage of the country’s Sauvignon Blanc after a low-yielding 2021 harvest, which was compounded by supply chain issues, Chris Stroud, New Zealand Winegrowers’ market manager for Europe, was in celebratory mood.

The free trade agreement between the UK and New Zealand that was signed in late winter doubtless had something to do with that, as the tariffs on Kiwi still wines will be removed by the end of 2022. These currently stand at 7.5p for 13% abv and under for a 75cl bottle, and 9p for 13.1-15% abv. In addition, the agreement has stipulated that the controversial VI-1 forms, which require wines to be lab tested before shipping, will be permanently scrapped.

Stroud, armed with fresh Nielsen statistics, revealed that the average price point for a bottle of New Zealand wine sold in the UK had risen above £8 for the first time (to £8.06). Driving the increase was the performance of Kiwi rosé, whose sales were up 80% and 77% in value and volume respectively. New Zealand reds were, he said, also performing well, coming in at £10.23 per bottle, nearly a fiver more than the average for all international reds.

Tim Fogarty, from the government-funded New Zealand Trade & Enterprise body, added to the feel-good factor when he revealed the average bottle of a Kiwi white wine sold in the UK was up from £7.28 to £8.01 (MAT to April 9, 2022). That increase of 9% is the highest recorded by any country. “All this confirms consumers trust Brand New Zealand and are happy to pay a premium for it,” Fogarty said.

The one sobering note for New Zealand was the fact that their wine exports for 2021 were down 3% to NZ$1.95 billion. After the record 2020 vintage, when a harvest of 457,000 tons represented an increase of 11%, the 2021 national crush fell as much as 19% to 370,000 tons, largely due to bad frosts. The impact of that for New Zealand was a seven million nine-litre case deficit in the face of global demand. “It’s open knowledge that there is a shortage of Sauvignon Blanc across the board,” said Joe Thompson of Delegat Europe, importers of the Oyster Bay brand.

Early signs are that the 2022 harvest in New Zealand is back to normal levels and will help plug the gap, although no production figures will be available till mid-June and the wines themselves will not hit shelves before August. The area under vine in New Zealand has increased 2% in 2021 to 41,603 hectares, of which 80% is white grapes (with 80% of white production being Sauvignon Blanc).

Geoffrey Dean (l) and Patrick McGrath from Hatch Mansfield

As much as 88% of New Zealand’s wine is exported, the highest percentage for any country in the world (the United States being amongst the lowest at 16%). The fall in exports in 2021, partly due to the worldwide shortage of containers, ended a long run of successive annual increases for New Zealand, whose wine exports doubled from 142 million litres in 2010 to 285m in 2021. The USA, UK, Canada and Australia remain the country’s key markets in that order.

The tasting itself was very well attended, with over 350 labels on display from 83 producers in eight regions and six sub-regions. As many as 28 different varietals were available from Albarino to Zweigelt, underlining the rich diversity of the New Zealand wine industry. While I met no one producer who had flown over for the event, there were UK-based Kiwis from winemaking dynasties present, such as Mackenzie Paton, daughter of Ata Rangi owner, Clive, and Toby Buck, whose family own Te Mata. Ata Rangi is among the 10% of wineries in New Zealand that have been certified organic.

There were two feature areas at the tasting. The first was a ‘Pour Yourself a Glass of New Zealand’, part of a campaign New Zealand Winegrowers are running this May when they are petitioning for a white wine emoji. The second was an Organic Wine Bar, showcasing 70 organic wines that included five different 2020 labels from renowned Central Otago producer Felton Road – their Block 3, Block 5, Calvert, Cornish Point and Bannockburn Pinot Noirs.

SIX OF THE BEST NZ WINES THAT STOOD OUT

Ata Rangi McCrone Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017

From a single vineyard planted in 2001 that, unlike the other Ata Rangi parcels, has a clay seam running through it. ‘This has ‘incredible site expression, with earthier and more robust notes,’ says Mackenzie Paton. Intense, opulent fruit with power, concentration and exceptional length. Supple tannins. A superb Martinborough Pinot from one of New Zealand’s supreme producers of the varietal. 13.5% abv (Liberty)

Esk Valley Heipipi The Terraces 2016

A celebrated Hawke’s Bay label from a very low-yielding, steep, terraced one-hectare vineyard. Made up of 40% Malbec, 33% Merlot and 27% Cabernet Franc, this is beautifully perfumed with blackcurrant, plum and spice notes. Elegant and harmonious with a tight structure from 100% new French oak, this has a long and great life ahead of it. 14% abv (Hatch Mansfield)

Hans Family Estate Viognier 2019

Winemaker Hans Herzog has crafted a finely-scented full-bodied Viognier with rich peach and pear notes with a hint of honey and spice. From very low-yielding, organically farmed vines in Blenheim, this is a complex wine with a gently oily texture and impressive harmony. 14% abv (Vindependents)

Seifried Aotea Sauvignon Blanc 2020

From vines in Nelson that are up to 40 years in age, this Sauvignon has very good depth of ripe, tropical fruit flavours as well as notable minerality and a mouth-wateringly crisp finish. Finely scented with pure melon and lime notes with a hint of gooseberry. 13% abv (Fells)

Te Mata Bullnose Syrah 2019

The best selection of 25 small batch ferments of Hawke’s Bay Syrah from what was a very low-yielding year, the first of a hat-trick of top vintages according to Toby Buck. Highly refined with elevated super-floral aromatics with blueberry, plum and peppery notes. Fine oak (40% new). Cool climate southern hemisphere Syrah at its best. 13.5% abv (Fells)

Villa Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Chardonnay 2019

A wonderful example of how good NZ Chardonnay can be. From a vineyard in Marlborough’s Awatere Valley, this has arrestingly intense flavours with vibrant acidity and lovely concentration. Grapefruit and citrus notes with refined biscuity oak notes and a long finish. 13.5% abv. (Hatch Mansfield)