How Plaimont is leading the fight against climate change in SW France
The Saint Mont wine region in SW France was ‘lost’ 40 years ago – turning out cheap Tannat-based wine and spirits with many winemakers giving up and moving on to other businesses. André Dubosc changed all that by setting up the Plaimont cooperative that now accounts for 98% of Saint Mont AOC, half of Madiran and Pacherenc du Vic Bilh with well over 600 growers. It is now one of the most transformative and genuinely exciting wine regions in France, reviving forgotten pre-phylloxera grape varieties that can help counter global warming and a renewed focus on old vines, premium sites and ancient varieties. Geoffrey Dean travelled to the region, attended the third Saint Mont Amelographic Days Conference and heard first-hand from Plaimont’s chief winemaker and managing director Olivier Bourdet-Pees about the exciting changes taking place.
By Geoffrey Dean August 18, 2022
“To borrow a footballing analogy, the Saint Mont region has risen from non-league status to the Premier League, and moreover are top-half-of-the-table challengers,” writes Dean.
André Dubosc, credited for having set Plaimont on its revolutionary course, June 21, 2022
Global warming’s inexorable advance, which saw England record 40°C for the first time in its history in mid-July, is now so acute that Plaimont’s actions in countering it are coming into ever sharper focus. The leading French co-operative, situated in Gascony in the south-west where it has 5,300 hectares under vine and 600 growers, has for years been promulgating the use, or re-use, of new or old varietals that can cope better with ‘le rechauffement climatique’. By chance, The Buyer, which has long championed Plaimont’s cause, was invited back to the region just before the summer heatwave began in Europe. Happily, there is ever encouraging news about Plaimont’s excellent range of premium wines and its research.
Olivier Bourdet-Pees: “We find ourselves in an emergency situation.”
The battle against global warming
Plaimont’s research crystallised in the form of a third Saint Mont AOC Ampelographic Days conference to follow the ones held in 2011 and 2016. Plaimont’s charismatic head winemaker and managing director, Olivier Bourdet-Pees, got straight to the point.
“We find ourselves today reeling from two difficult years which have probably changed the course of world history,” he declared. “Climate disasters are on the rise all over the world, as if to have us better appreciate the scale of the emergencies we are going to have to face in the future. Turning our attention to viticulture, the two years of extreme weather (heatwave in 2020, then frost and excess water in 2021) that we have just experienced make it all the more urgent for us to build our arsenal of solutions to meet the challenges ahead. So, since we find ourselves in an emergency situation, we had better move swiftly ahead.”
Plaimont, though, presciently began its battle against global warming two decades or so ago. Ancient varieties, rediscovered by them, such as Tardif, Manseng Noir and Morenoa (a cousin of the two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc) are producing some very palatable wines, while new varietals with no name are showing real potential. Several of them were blended in a deliberately anonymous label entitled Né Sous X (“Born as X”), whose first vintage was 2021. Coming in at 11.8% abv, it cannot be sold commercially before 2024 or 2025. The newly named varietals in it are Pédebernade 5 and Dubosc 1&2, along with the obscure Chacolis and Négret de Banhars.
Tardif, as befits its name, has been confirmed to be a late-ripening varietal by tests carried out since 2008. A key characteristic is its aromatic nature, caused primarily by a concentration of Rotundone, the compound discovered by the AWRI [Australian Wine Research Institute] to give Syrah/Shiraz its peppery notes. It is intensely coloured with smooth tannins and is low in alcohol.
There are no records of a varietal named Tardif in ampelography literature, either on a national or local level, but the INRA (Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique) Vassal collection of 1949 in south-west France features it. In 2002, two ungrafted vines in the Pédebernade family’s ancient ‘historical vineyards’ plot of a hectare in the Sarragachies commune in Gers were positively identified as ‘Tardif N’ from Vassal. Propagations of these were used to plant the seven hectares of Tardif that Plaimont currently has under vine.
“We know Tardif is potentially a fantastic grape but we are now fighting the INAO [Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité] to have it incorporated within the AOP,” says Marc Vachet, Plaimont’s sales manager.
The INAO has finally agreed to back it as a varietal of interest but they are only allowing it to constitute a maximum of 5% of all vineyard plantings and no more than 10% in a Saint Mont AOC red blend. Moreover, they have insisted on another 10 years of experimentation to be carried out, an excessively long period in the view of growers as global warming intensifies. A new research project named ‘Pepper your Wine’ is being carried out under the guidance of Olivier Geoffroy from the IFV [Institut Français de la Vigne et du Vin] in the hope that Saint Mont AOC growers can plant and cultivate Tardif alongside Tannat to achieve the freshness, smoothness and richness they aim for.
Nadine Raymond, Plaimont winemaker, by her 1975-planted Tannat vines
As for Manseng Noir, its key characteristic is arguably its naturally low levels of alcohol. Its genetic ties are not to other Mansengs (such as Gros and Petit) but to Tannat, Dubosc 1 and Négret de Banhars. It was reintroduced in Plaimont’s 2015 plantings, and is currently grown on 46 hectares, mainly around Condom.
“It gives another expression of the terroir here,” said Bourdet-Pees. “You get damson notes and a bit of spice but it’s not really peppery. All the people are fond of it. It’s very aromatic with nice acidity and thick skins yet soft tannins. You can blend it or use it as a single varietal. Typically, it is 12% abv.”
André Dubosc, the grand old vigneron of the area who has done so much to establish it as a brand, recalled how Emile Peynaud, revered as the forefather of modern oenology, gave him the belief and encouragement he needed.
“We were surrounded by Madiran, so a little forgotten,” he sighed. “Gers was only about Armagnac. But I had the desire to recreate Saint Mont, and did my studies on all the vineyards in France and knew great wines potentially could be everywhere – especially down here. But I had to persuade my fellow farmers that they must make either wine or Armagnac from the same grapes, but not both. History was my point of reference, and Peynaud gave me the inspiration as the master who respected everyone. The grandees in Bordeaux all laughed but he knew what was going on here.”
The ancient vineyard at Sarragachies where 21 confirmed pre-phylloxera varieties were discovered
The ‘history’ that Dubosc talks of is something nowhere else in France has: its magnificent old pre-phylloxera vineyard in Sarragachies that has been accorded the status of ‘national monument.’ French denomination is “Monument Historique”. What makes it unique is that it is the only plant-based national entity to be so recognised. Planted in 1871, its sandy soils were its protection against the phylloxera aphid. The vines, still ungrafted on their own roots, have been lovingly cared for by the owners, the Péderbernade family. All have been genetically tested, with 21 varieties confirmed, including Tannat, Tardif and Pinenc. Those with no prior identity have been named after the family, being given numbers of 1 to 7. The plot, surrounded by century-old fig trees, is deeply symbolic of the Saint Mont AOC’s remarkable genetic heritage.
Some varieties have still not been identified and bear the name of the family that owned the vineyard
From “producing the worst wine in France forty years ago” – Bourdet-Pees’ words – the region, following Plaimont’s foundation in 1979, is now making some of the best premium wines by a co-operative in France. To borrow a footballing analogy, they have risen from non-league status to the Premier League, and moreover are top-half-of-the-table challengers.
“The people were willing to change from nothing to build this co-op,” Bourdet-Pees continued. “There was nothing here – we were the worst. André was the very first to say to people we have to work together to rebuild this appellation. They believed in him and look at the results. Research is fundamental to the project – we must do it for ourselves. It used to be that the best students went to Bordeaux and stayed there, while the worst came back. Now we have something to offer the best.”
Barrel room at Ch de Sabazan
And it certainly shows in the wines, whose élevage is carefully monitored by Bourdet-Pees. His selection and use of barrels is meticulous, with no more than 30% new oak employed. “The choice of oak is very important,” he said. “We use first-fill barriques from Bordeaux where we know the origin. And I do like barrels from Burgundy and Beaujolais. I don’t know why they are the best – maybe it’s the freshness of the fruit.”
Freshness is perhaps the overriding characteristic of Plaimont’s wines. If the region is the worst in France for downy and powdery mildew owing to annual rainfall of 1100 mm, Bourdet-Pees thinks the same rain helps provide freshness. That, and the varietals being grown, should combine to help maintain Plaimont’s continued success.
6 of the best premium Plaimont wines tasted
Cirque Nord Grande Cuvée 2016
70% Gros Manseng, 20 Petit Manseng, 10 Petit Courbu
Fabulous freshness, fruit and texture from this north-facing two-hectare plot on argilo-calcaire soils with big pebbles. Bourdet-Pees considers it his best spot for white production, although INAO initially refused to give it appellation status when Saint Mont became an AOC in 2011 on the basis it was too cold. They reversed their decision in 2014 when shown the wines. Old oak only used for élevage. Twelve months on the lees helps give complex nuances of almond and honey blossom with a hint of toastiness. Pear and peach notes with some nuttiness on a long spice finish. A complex wine with potential to develop further. The 2017 (50% Gros Manseng, 25 Petit Manseng & 25 Petit Courbu) also has wonderful intensity of flavour, with spice, honey and pineapple notes. 13.5% abv
Château de Sabazan 2018
Tannat-dominant blend, also including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinenc
Nadine Raymond, director of the Cave des Vignerons de Saint Mont, has played an integral role in reviving the winemaking heritage of the appellation. She oversees this old vineyard, whose Tannat vines were planted in 1975, on Riparia rootstocks to reduce the varietal’s natural vigour. Exceptionally low yields here of 10hl/ha from sandy soils, with no herbicides employed. A low pH of 3.5 or 3.6 helps enhance freshness, while a very gentle maceration and a fermentation temperature of 25C ensures no over-extraction. Open top fermenters help reduce alcohol levels. Elegant tannins and appetising red and black fruit. 14% abv
La Madeleine de Saint Mont 2018
90% Tannat, 8 Cabernet Franc, 2 Pinenc
Very attractive red fruit with plum and cherry notes predominating. Lots of freshness with vibrant acidity, with overt but well-integrated tannins that provide structure for long ageing. The balance between fruit, acidity, tannins and alcohol (14%) is exemplary. A complex wine. 14% abv
Le Faîte Rouge, Saint Mont 2017
Another predominantly Tannat blend with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinenc. Very appealing red cherry fruit with blackberry and earthy notes. Complex and long, yet so fresh with beautifully integrated tannins. Elegant and refined with the structure to go with it. 14% abv
Le Faîte Blanc, Saint Mont 2018
Gros Manseng (65%, vinified in old barrels), Petit Courbu and Petit Manseng (both tank).
The latter is another rediscovered grape that really adds to the blend in Bourdet-Pees’ view. “Arrufiac was almost abandoned, but now they are replanting it,” he said. “By itself, it isn’t good as it’s tannic and bitter, but if you have it, the expression of Gros Manseng is better. Arrufiac gives salinity on the finish too.” The wine, thanks to a pH as low as 3.0, is supremely refreshing, with a herbal, spicy nose and intense grapefruit and pineapple notes with a touch of honey and wax. 13.5% abv
L’Empreinte de Saint Mont, 2017
Very similar assemblage to the Le Faîte Blanc. Another classy blend with fresh citrus, apple and quince notes with saline minerality. Once again, the alcohol is balanced by vibrant acidity. Such drinkability with notable length. 13.5% abv
THE 3RD SAINT MONT AMPELOGRAPHIC DAYS CONFERENCE (20/21 JUNE, 2022)
Held on June 20 and 21, 2022, the 3rd Saint Mont Ampelographic Days Conference had an impressive line-up of speakers and subject material:
The wild Lambrusque vine & the domestication of the vine (by Thierry Lacombe, INRA Vassal, Supagro Montpellier)
Plant material: an overview of the latest knowledge (Laurent Audeguin, Innovation Research, IFV)
From one Piedmont to another – vine diversity in the shadow of the Italian Alps (Anna Schneider, Italian National Research Council)
Exploring the great indigenous varieties of Armenia (Jean-Baptiste Soula, winemaker in Armenia)
A winemaker & grape variety from Gascony to the great terroirs of Sonoma Valley (Pierre Seillan, creator of Vérité wines in Sonoma)
Native grape varieties and creation of varietals to adapt to new challenges, with Audeguin, Raymond, Pierre Citerne (anthropologist), Eric Serrano (IFV) & Pierre Matayron (farmer).