The wines of Lake Garda

Production of both Lake Garda wine and the amount of growers has quadrupled over the past five years. The area is led by a bullish Garda DOC that wants to up production to 40 million bottles per annum, and promote its 10 appellations and range of wines to the outside world. Geoffrey Dean visited the region and samples the impressive wines of Vigneti Villabella, Pratello, Santa Sofia, Ricchi, Perla del Garda and Tommasi and tries to get under the skin of what makes this region so unique.

By Geoffrey DeanJuly 14, 2022

“Freshness is assisted by a near-permanent breeze off the lake, with lowish pHs a common denominator in Lake Garda wine,” writes Dean.

For most wine drinkers around the world, Lake Garda is somewhere very nice you go to on holiday. The biggest lake in Italy at 370 square kms, it dwarfs nearby Lake Como, being 52 km long and 16 km across at its widest point. Its perimeter is 158km – almost exactly the same distance as that of the M25 encircling London.

However, the Lake Garda DOC was founded in 1996 with the aim of promoting the varietal wines of the 10 designations of the Garda area between Lombardy and Veneto. These include two very well-known appellations in Soave and Valpolicella as well as familiar ones in Lugana and Bardolino. The other six don’t exactly trip off the tongue: Colli Mantovani, Custoza, Monti Lessini, Riviera Valtenesi, San Martino della Battaglia and Valdadige Terradeiforti. Varietals that are especially representative are Trebbiano, Garganega, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Corvina, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Production of Lake Garda wine has shot up in the last five years from 4.5 million bottles per annum in 2016 to around 20 million by 2021. Quality has also improved, and not without some justification does Paolo Fiorini, the president of Garda DOC, proclaim “we believe this appellation is ready to make a big leap from not just a place for holidays but also great wine.”

Certainly, the area appears to have the capacity to increase production further and provide the volume that multiples and indies alike may want. A total of 969 growers in the DOC in 2016 has swelled to 3,962 by last year, and in the Cantina di Soave, the region possesses one one of the biggest and best cooperatives in Italy.

The director of the consorzio, Carlo Alberto Panont, declared that the objective is to double production to 40 million bottles per annum. “We currently export 80%, but I want to increase that percentage,” he said. “Our main markets are Germany, UK, Scandinavia and the USA.”

For those not fully aware of the Garda DOC’s production area, it is a predominantly hilly landscape around the lake, stretching from Valtenesi in the west to Valpolicella in the east, from the Mincio river to the city of Verona.  Of the area under vine (31,100 hectares), as much as 27,889 ha are in the province of Verona, with the remainder in the provinces of Brescia and Mantua.

So much for its geography and beautiful location. What about the Lake Garda wines?

The locals love to tell you that the majority of Lake Garda wines are characterised by softness, fruitiness and freshness. “Garda is land of light,” Panont declared. “And light, or rare luminosity is the natural factor that makes the production area around the lake a Mediterranean enclave at the foot of the Alps. The effect of the light refraction, amplified by the large area of water, produces the sensation of a friendly climate.” Freshness is assisted by a near-permanent breeze off the lake, with lowish pHs a common denominator.

Drinkability, therefore, is the watchword of Garda DOC wines. Vigneti Villabella, a winery near Bardolino, produces elegant, fresh and expressive Pinot Grigios, with the 2021 vintage available through Tordoff Wines near Southampton. A really good Trebbiano is made by Santa Sofia, whose UK importer is Mondial Wine in Surrey.

Giovanna Prandini with her sparkling wine

Meanwhile, Giovanna Prandini, owner of the Perla del Garda winery in Lugana, is seeking UK distribution. Her two sparklings, both made by the traditional method, showed superbly, with the non-vintage Blanc de Blancs spending 20 months on the lees and the 2009 vintage, also 100% Chardonnay, 72 months with zero dosage.

Likewise, Azienda Ricchi, situated to the south of Lake Garda, makes an excellent still Chardonnay named Meridiano and is also looking for a British importer.

One of the most dynamic wineries in Garda DOC is Pratello, which is located to the west of the lake in Valtenesi. Owner Vincenzo Bertola, and his daughter Naike, make a most impressive range of wines, some of which are available through Berkmann. “Our aim is to obtain a salty finish, which is a key character for our whites and reds,” Naike says. “We are certified organic, and have a lot of cows in the vineyards. For us, the synergy between animals and the vineyards is super important. They give us a fantastic biodiversity to the soil. With our Rosés, we hope to give a specific ID to Lake Garda DOC.”

Naike Bertola with her Pratello Riesling

Pratello, whose total production is around 700,000 bottles per annum, makes an excellent Riesling from vines planted on poor morainic soils in the 1970s by Naike’s grandfather. The 2016 has developed petrol and honeyed notes to add to the citrus of more recent years. The winery’s range of sparkling wines includes a Rosé, made by the single fermentation ‘methode ancestrale,’ as well as a fine traditional method Blanc de Blancs from 95% Chardonnay and 5% Erbamat, a rarely-found local variety that is very high in acidity. Labelled Donna Caterina, it spends 36 months on the lees and has a dosage of 2 g/l.

Completing Pratello’s range are a pair of Garda Rosso DOC reds from the Rebo grape, a cross of Merlot and Teroldego. The Nero per Sempre 2018 label (or ‘black forever’) was named this because Vincenzo “wanted something deep, pure and intense.” Soft tannins, typical of Rebo, make this very approachable, even if 40 days of raisining of the grapes in the cellar give it notable richness. A ‘no sulphites added’ Rebo from 2020 is made quite differently, being lighter and fresher.

A special word for Tommasi

Rich Amarone wines are a hallmark of Tommasi, one of the leading wineries in Valpolicella. The company has vineyards all over Italy, and export manager, Giorgio Scarsella, is keen to increase exports of their Montalcino labels through its UK importers, MMD in London. Tommasi already sends to Britain some 15,000 bottles per annum of their good everyday drinker, Casisano Rosso di Montalcino, but would like to get more uptake of their lower premium label, Casisano Brunello di Montalcino.  From vines grown at 520 metres, which yield 6.2 tons per hectare, the 2015 vintage was aged in large second and third-fill Slavonian oak vessels for two and a half years, and is drinking beautifully now.

Pierangelo Tommasi

Everything about Tommasi oozes excellence, from its own spa hotel near Verona named Villa Quaranta to its wines at all levels and executive director Pierangelo Tommasi. He oversees a total annual production of around two million bottles from its various Italian DOCs which, from next year, will also include Umbria and Sicily. Nearly 90% of Tommasi’s wines are exported to 70 markets, but he believes there is capacity for an increase of 15% if distribution is improved.

Giorgio Scarsella in front of the Magnifica

The three Amarone labels we tasted over lunch positively sang: the Amarone Classico 2018, the super premium CaFlorian Riserva 2013 and the iconic Deburis 2010. And no report on Tommasi would be complete without mention of their 33,300-litre Slavonian oak foudre, certified by the Guinness Book of Records as the largest in the world still in practical use. Made by Garbellotto in 2010, it took six months to be produced, and is known as the ‘Magnifica.’ A suitable epithet for all things Tommasi.

Loire Valley visit May 2022

Tasting special: the impressive current state of Loire Valley wines

Geoffrey Dean spent four days travelling throughout the Loire – visiting estates and tasting Loire wines from Vouvray, Saumur-Champigny, Muscadet, Touraine, Anjou and many more regions. Here he picks out the domaines and wines that impressed him the most as well as discover how the Loire is making great strides both in organic viticulture and sustainability. Despite a 31% drop in volume for the 2021 harvest, the quality is excellent, and exports have risen from France’s third largest French AOP wine region.

By Geoffrey Dean June 22, 2022

“2021 is true to the great Loire vintages – fresh and crisp, with good acidity for the sparkling wines as well as good density and excellent aromas and flavours for the still wines.”

Impressive statistics bombard you when you visit the Loire Valley. It is, you are reminded, the largest AOP vineyard area for white wines in France; the largest AOP vineyard area for Rosé wines in the country; and the largest AOP area for sparkling wine there (excluding Champagne). Vines were first planted in the Loire as far back as the fifth century, and it is now the third biggest French AOP wine region by volume, with 280 million AOP/IGP bottles sold every year in 160 different countries.

Ambitious target: Sylvain Naulin

Ambitious target: Sylvain Naulin

What is especially compelling is the newest statistic released by generic trade body InterLoire, namely that over 20% of the region’s vineyards are now certified organic. In 2021, almost 65% of vineyards were sustainably or organically farmed. The InterLoire CEO, Sylvain Naulin, has set wineries an ambitious target of attaining 100% certified ‘green’ labels by 2030. That may be as unrealistic as the UK government’s stated plan of having 100% electric car sales by the same year, but you have to applaud InterLoire for its intent. The message is clear: the association and the majority of its 3,600 growers, 430 negociants and 21 co-operatives are wedded to the concept of sustainability.

The Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) certification forms the basis behind the sustainability drive. Promoting good, environmentally friendly practices across three levels, the highest – level 3 – is based on indicators such as respect for biodiversity, a strategy to counter insect pests and sound management of fertiliser and irrigation. The most basic, level 1, certifies that a grower has a basic knowledge of “sustainable” cultivation. Levels 2 and 3 are certified by a body approved by the Ministry of Agriculture.

While exports have risen by 18% in value in the last five years, they are slightly down in that time to the UK which still remains the second biggest export market after the USA. The recent typical annual turnover of Loire wines – €1.3 billion – is set to fall, however, after yields for the 2021 harvest were down 31% on the 5-year average. Frosts were chiefly to blame for the drop, which was marked for Sauvignon Blanc and Melon de Bourgogne.

According to Pierre-Jean Sauvion, chair of the InterLoire communication panel, “the end of the growing season in August and September gave us very good levels of ripeness. 2021 is true to the great Loire vintages – fresh and crisp, with good acidity for the sparkling wines as well as good density and excellent aromas and flavours for the still wines. The sweet wines are velvety with a deliciously lifted structure and are bursting with tropical fruit flavours.”

So which are the estates to keep an eye on?

The Buyer experienced an expansive tasting of Loire wines and recent vintages during a four-day spring visit to the region. A plethora of producers from Vouvray, Saumur-Champigny, Muscadet, Touraine, Anjou and elsewhere showed a multitude of excellent wines, offering some of the best value in France.

Liv Vincendeau

One Cremant de Loire that really stood out was the biodynamically-certified Domane Vincendeau Loiregold 2020 from Anjou. Made from 100% Chenin Blanc grapes by Liv Vincendeau, an engaging Franco-German, this has wonderful volcanic nervous energy with 4g/l dosage, and is imported into the UK by Vagabond. Meanwhile, another Cremant to impress, the Dumnacus Blanc Brut 2017, is stocked by Liberty. Comprised of 68% Chenin Blanc, 17% Chardonnay, 13% Grolleau and 2% Cabernet Franc, this spent four years on the lees.

Carolien Meuree

Liberty also takes a large allocation of two good mid-market labels from Saumur-Champigny producer, Les Sables Verts. “Les Poyeux” 2020 (100% Cabernet Franc) and “Les Roueres” 2020 (100% Chenin Blanc) are skilfully fashioned by a young pair of winemakers, Caroline Meuree and Herve Malinge, who met while studying in Bordeaux. The former, which comes from 70-year old vines yielding just 38 hl/ha, sees only stainless steel and retains lovely, elegant fruit expression with pure, dusty tannins. The white, matured in 50% new 12hl foudres, has fabulous intensity and length as well as minimal sulphur dioxide levels for those with a low tolerance (23mg/l free and 32mg/l total SO2).

Vanessa Cherruau

Another cracking Chenin Blanc, from Anjou producer Chateau de Plaisance’s Ronceray label, is imported by Lea & Sandeman. Vanessa Cherrueau, a larger-than-life character with a permanent smile on her face, farms biodynamically in Rochefort sur Loire, and has crafted a wine with lovely intensity and length. She ferments in older oak with wild yeasts.

Emanuel Ogereau

Emanuel Ogereau, winemaker for renowned Anjou estate, Domaine Ogereau, likewise crafted a superb example of Chenin Blanc with his ‘La Martiniere’ 2020. “We are rediscovering dry Chenin Blanc in a sweet region,” Ogereau said. “Anjou is rising and our geology is very interesting with a lot of different soils. For example, on the left bank of the Layon river, we have vineyards on ancient decomposed schist; on the right bank, we have volcanic rock.”

Isabella Meuli

Two English female assistant winemakers have been helping to produce some notable white wines from the region: Camilla Murray, at biodynamically-certified Chateau de Chaintres in Saumur, and Isabella Meuli, at Ampelidae, an organically-certified IGP Val de Loire producer in Neuville-de-Poitou. The former’s ‘Clos des Oratories’ 2020 label showed superbly, coming from ultra low-yielding 90-year old Chenin Blanc vines on an estate owned by the same family for the last 95 years. “It’s a beautiful half-hectare parcel,” Murray said. “We used wild yeasts, added very little SO2 as the pH was 3.18 and matured the wine in big old wooden casks and 160-litre terracotta vessels. St. John Wines in London has it.”

Meuli, an ex-insurance broker from London who studied Chinese at university there, “learnt winemaking on the job during several harvests” as she put it, and is working under technical director, Gilles de Bollardier. Ampelidae’s “Le S” Sauvignon Blanc label, grown on tuffeau, limestone, clay and silex soils is a premium example of the varietal, and the estate are hoping to find a UK distributor.

Cabernet Franc, Gamay and… yet more Chenin

While white wines make up 45% of production in the Loire, reds form 19%. A pair of Cabernet Francs from Saumur producer, Domaine du Vieux Pressoir, stood out. The estate, which will be certified organic next year, exports 35% of its 60,000-bottle annual production, with the Graft Wine Company in London being its UK importer. It takes both its ‘Elegance’ 2020 label, which is aged in old oak, and the ‘Origine’ 2019 label (elevage in concrete).

Amelie Neau

Theatre of Wine in London imports another enchanting Cabernet Franc: Domaine de Nerleux’s “Les Loups Noirs” 2018 label. Established as far back as the 16th century, this Saumur-Champigny estate has stayed in the same family, with winemaker Amelie Neau being the ninth generation. 25-year old organically-farmed vines produce seductive red fruit with kirsch notes, while some structure is provided by 10% new oak.

Marie-Francoise Ratron-Galet

The Wine Society stocks another very enticing Cabernet Franc from Saumur Champigny: the Clos des Cordeliers estate’s ‘Prestige’ label, which is made only in the best years from low-yielding vines, now 55-years old, on limestone soils. The 2018, which saw stainless steel and no oak, is only the second vintage made by Marie-Francoise Ratron-Galet after the death of her husband, and yielded just 30hl/ha.

Camilla Murray

Even older Cab Franc vines – planted in 1960 in a walled vineyard – prompting a ‘Vieilles Vignes’ label, provided the fruit for Camilla Murray’s first vintage at Chateau de Chaintres, the excellent 2020.

Benedicte Petit

One of the Loire Valley’s 24 varietals grown is Gamay. A lovely example of it came from an Anjou estate south of Angers – Terra Vita Vinum, a domaine of 30 hectares. Benedicte Petit, the winemaker, uses 30% new oak and 70% stainless steel to craft a label called ‘Chant de la Pierre.’ The 2020 vintage is imbued with freshness and flavoursome red fruit. Both that and the winery’s excellent flagship white label, Grandes Rogeries 2020, made from Chenin Blanc vines on volcanic rock, are available through Robert Rolls in London.

Eddie Oosterlinck

Still in Anjou, Eddie and Mileine Oosterlinck-Bracke, who are originally from Holland, make a complex Chenin from very old vines that are between 60 and 110 years-old, with a very low yield of 15 hl/ha. Their ‘Le Paradis de Juchepie’ label from their estate, Domaine de Juchepie, is fermented in an old basket-press and matured in 50% new and 50% old barriques after going through 100% malolactic fermentation. It is available through Friarwood Fine Wines in Fulham.

Loic Mahe

Friarwood also stocks another top Chenin from Savennieres, made by Loic Mahe, named ‘Les Fougeraies’ 2016. Biodynamically farmed vines on a small plot with a sandy topsoil yield 25hl/ha and wonderfully expressive fruit. Thanks to a pH of 3.05, Mahe is able to add minimal SO2 – just 20mg/l free and 40mg/l total.

Not far away, Evelyne de Pontbriand, owner-winemaker of Domaine du Closel, which is also certified biodynamic, fashions another superb Chenin from low-yielding vines that are 25-70 years of age. Her ‘Clos du Papillon’ 2019 label, named after a fabled site, is available though Lay & Wheeler and the Wine Society.

And finally the stickies…

No discourse on the Loire would be complete without reference to their outstanding stickies. Brompton Wines in London takes a sumptuous sweet Chenin Blanc from Chateau Soucherie in Coteaux de Layon. Vianney de Tastes, the splendidly-named winemaker, revealed that he made three passes through the vines for his 100% botrytised 2015 harvest. Located on schist soils at 120m, they yielded only 12hl/ha, with the wine containing 120g/l of residual sugar.

The yield was even lower for Vouvray producer, Domaine d’Orfeuilles, when it got just 5hl/ha from its then 45-year old vines  for their wonderful Reserve D’Automne Moelleux Blanc 2009 (86g/l RS). For those preferring off-dry, Domaine Huet’s Haut Lieu 2020 (19g/l RS) provided a regal ending to a tasting, as InterLoire likes to proclaim… of “the world’s most diverse range of wines.”

Antinori's Bocca di Lupo

Antinori’s Puglia estate, Bocca di Lupo, breaks free from Tormaresca

Ever since the Antinori empire purchased Bocca di Lupo in 1998 the Puglia estate has helped highlight the exceptional terroir to be found in the region. Now the decision has been made for it to break free from its sister winery of Tormaresca so that the Castel del Monte and Salento areas can be highlighted and appreciated for their character and distinctive identity, and can each bask in their own glory. Geoffrey Dean had lunch with the Antinori team to discuss the changes and taste the new vintages.

By Geoffrey Dean June 15, 2022
“The Antinori family’s purchase of Bocca di Lupo was another case – maybe even the best – of redeeming marvellous terroir.”

Drinkers of Bocca di Lupo, the iconic Puglia brand owned by the Antinori family, will note a new label and logo on the latest release of their flagship Aglianico from the Castel del Monte DOC. A collection of UK-based sommeliers as well as The Buyer were invited to a London restaurant to taste the 2018 vintage at what was an official launch of Tenuta Bocca di Lupo’s “solo journey – its separation from its sister winery of Tormaresca.”

The two estates had previously been under the Tormaresca umbrella, sharing the same logo. Older vintages feature Tormaresca at the bottom of the main label, but the 2018 one does not, and has a new lupine logo. The explanation for the change, according to Emanuele Barrasso, the Antinori brand manager at its UK distributor, Berkmann Cellars, is “because Bocca di Lupo and Tormaresca produce wines which are different and, from a trade perspective, ‘speak’ to different clients.”

The invited trade were able to taste, over lunch, three vintages of the Bocca di Lupo Aglianico – 2006, 2014 and 2018. Also tasted were two other Bocca di Lupo labels – their Fiano 2018, Puglia IGT and Pietrabianca Chardonnay 2019, Castel del Monte DOC – as well as the Tormaresca Furia di Calafuria Rosato 2021, Salento IGT.

Vito Palumbo

Vito Palumbo, brand manager for Bocca di Lupo, was keen to push Puglia’s merits as a multi-varietal wine-producing region. “We want to challenge the bias against Puglia,” he said. “To show we can make wines with freshness, acidity and balance. To put Puglia back on the map, and being recognised as somewhere where wines of quality and character are made. Our aim is to be considered as good as a region like Piemonte.”

Aglianico has, of course, earned the sobriquet of the ‘Barolo of the South’ on account of its high levels of tannin and acidity. Despite the former factor, the 2018 is already very approachable with soft, fine-grained tannins along with notes of chocolate, plum, spice and leather. “We want to give a silky finish to our tannins,” Palumbo continued. “Everything we do is to wear velvet gloves over an iron fist. So our fermentation temperature is a maximum 26C, and we take out the pips which we used to leave.” Whereas the 2006 saw 50% Hungarian oak, the 2014 and 2018 are matured in 100% French oak.

With Bocca di Lupo and Tormaresca between them producing three million bottles from 450 hectares under vine, Palumbo feels that the former’s Fiano label has an important role in pushing local identity. “We want to experiment with Fiano,” he added. “We leave it for ten months in big 500-litre oak vessels, of which 50% are new.” This oak regime helps to add structure to its full body and waxy texture. Appealing floral and almond notes made it a very pleasurable accompaniment to the Orkney scallops we ate it with

Equally palatable was the premium-quality rose Furia di Calafuria 2021 with its light, Provencal-like colour. A blend of three grapes – Negro Amaro (50%), Cabernet Franc (30%) and Syrah (20%) – it retails at €30 in Italy. “Puglia is well-known for its rose, which is like a religion there,” Palumbo declared. “In fact, the first Italian rose in Italy was made in Puglia in 1946. We decided to make this Furia rose the same colour as those from Provence, so there was less than three hours of skin contact. It has some spiciness and creaminess from the Cabernet Franc, as well as a bit of salinity. It is incredibly popular in Puglia, which is why only 35% of the production is exported.”

The Antinori family’s purchase of Bocca di Lupo in 1998 was, as Piero Antinori wrote, “another case – maybe even the best – of redeeming marvellous terroir.” Very poor soils with sea fossils, unlike the rest of Puglia, which is largely limestone, underpinned his reasoning, and now more than two decades later, his renowned head winemaker, Renzo Cotarella, gives his take on the investment.

“I believe we have had excellent results in Puglia in terms of quality of wine but also as a major contributor to the reputation of the region. Now that we can celebrate Puglia’s renewed allure, we believe that the areas we invested in [Castel del Monte and Salento] deserve to be highlighted and appreciated for their character and distinctive identity. We want each estate to bask in its own glory.” On the basis of the London tasting in May, they have every right to do so.

A Pinot matured at 3048m

The tale of Pino 3000: a 3-country Pinot blend matured at 3048m

We’ve seen wines matured underwater, in deserts, old mines and now, with Pino 3000, there is a wine that is matured in barriques at 3048 metres up an Austrian mountain. Sounding like an 80s pop band, Pino 3000 is a wacky Pinot Noir blend of wines made in Germany, Italy and Austria which are then blended and left to mature in their lofty perch. EU legislation forbids it being called Pinot Noir (naturally) but the effect of making the wine has had quite an impact on the winemakers as Geoffrey ‘Broadsword’ Dean discovered when he took the cable car up the mountain to Das Central.

By Geoffrey DeanMay 21, 2022

“During Covid when the gondola was not operating, the only way to get to the restaurant to top up the barrels of Pino 3000 was to climb the mountain on foot,” writes Dean.

Joachim Heger, one of Germany’s most celebrated winemakers, sat back as we talked at 3,048 metres (exactly 10,000 feet) by a glacier in the Austrian Alps and mused that “this exercise has been really, really interesting as it has changed my philosophy on winemaking.” He was not referring to a day’s skiing, but to a highly unusual experiment between himself and two other leading winemakers from Austria and Italy – Paul Achs and Wolfgang Tratter.

The story of their creation – a label named “Pino 3000” – is a bizarre one but worth telling. In 2010, the wine-obsessed owner of the Das Central hotel in the Austrian ski resort of Sölden, hatched an ambitious idea. This was to procure a three-country assemblage of premium Pinot Noirs from Baden, Burgenland and Alto Adige and mature the blend in barriques in their ‘Ice Q’ restaurant at 3,048 metres on the Gaislachkogel Mountain before bottling it. Under EU law, they could not call it Pinot, so they dropped the T and settled for Pino 3000 rather than the less catchy Pino 3048.

Paul Achs, Angelina Falkner, Joachim Heger and Michael Waschl in the maturation cellar at the Ice Q restaurant

Being well-connected, Angelika Falkner, the hotel owner, had little difficulty in persuading Heger, Achs and Tratter to sign up to the concept, with the three providing a brace of barrels each from their 2011 harvest. These were transported to Tratter’s Alto Adige winery, St. Pauls, where he blended the three wines in tank, racked them back into barrels and drove them over the border to Sölden and up the mountain to the restaurant. After a year’s maturation there, the barrels were taken back to Alto Adige, where the wines were bottled and then returned to the restaurant for cellaring there.

Always keeping a fatherly eye on the barrels at the restaurant has been the Das Central general manager, Michael Waschl, a wine fanatic, who deserves much credit for regularly topping them up, especially during Covid when the gondola was not operating. The only way to get to the restaurant was to climb the mountain on foot. He did so umpteen times.

Every year since 2011, the triumvirate of distinguished winemakers has provided a couple of barrels of their Pinot Noir, with Tratter handling the blending. The Das Central Hotel invites them at the end of every skiing season to their annual 3-day wine and gourmet festival called “Wein am Berg” (“Wine on the mountain”) along with a bevy of Austria’s top winemakers, who bring a selection of their wines. It is, therefore, a celebration not just of the Pino 3000 label, various vintages of which get tasted, but of many of Austria’s best wines.

Heger, whose Baden Pinot Noirs are much sought after, says the tripartite blend has taught him a lot. “My own production has benefited from this joint venture,” he declared. “Why? Because I am coming more and more to a fresher style. In the beginning, we started with a higher percentage of new oak but now we use less – just one new barrel out of four, with one a 500-litre tonneau.”

Achs is no less positive. “There is slight micro-oyygenation in the barrel, while the cooler conditions help to bring fruit and elegance,” he said. “The other good thing is that the amount of sulphur dioxide addition is less. The SO2 levels are quite low as the wine is very stable – about 40 mg/l free, and 80-85 mg/l total depending on the pH. It’s very important the residual sugar is below 2 g/l, while we aim for alcohol of 13-13.5%. It’s been a lot of fun and very interesting. I provide fruit from nearly always the same blocks at maybe 150m. Joachim’s fruit is from lower, while Wolfgang’s is much higher. The big challenge is climate change as if it gets too warm the grapes can ripen a bit quick.”

Because the wine comes from three countries, Pino 3000 cannot even have a vintage on the label under EU law. Instead, each year is listed on the back label as a lot number: so L11 for 2011, L12 for 2012 etc. A tasting of 2011 revealed a very light colour, an elegant wine with appealing raspberry and cherry fruit with lovely soft tannins and notable freshness. The 2020, which was tasted ex-barrel, had gorgeous red fruit and very suave tannins with real finesse. In short, the oldest and the youngest of the Pino 3000s both showed particularly well as did other mid-decade vintages.

Paul Achs and Joachim Heger

To taste Pino 3000, though, connoisseurs will have to visit Sölden and buy it with a meal at either Das Central or the Ice Q restaurant on a summer or winter holiday. Or they can do so at the next Wein am Berg festival from April 20-23, 2023. For wine lovers, the latter option is a brilliant opportunity to spend three days and nights in the company of some of Austria’s top winemakers. These include the likes of Stefan Tement, Kurt Feiler, Albert Gesellmann, Axel Stiegelmar (of Juris), Johannes Gross, the Sattler brothers (of Sattlerhof), as well as Brundlmayer general manager Andreas Wickhoff MW, and Rebecca Heger, the new chief winemaker at her father Joachim’s Baden estate.

Anyone visiting the Ice Q restaurant should also pop next door into the Elements 007 James Bond cinematic installation. This was designed by leading Austrian architect Johann Obermoser in collaboration with the art director of recent Bond films, Neal Callow. The state-of-the-art construction, built into the summit of the Gaislachkogl Mountain, focuses on the movie, ‘Spectre’, the Alpine scenes of which were shot a stone’s throw below. Complete with a tech lab, action hall, screening room and legacy gallery, Elements 007 offers a fascinating insight into the production secrets of the Bond franchise.

Six wines that stood out from tastings during the Wein am Berg Festival

Ried Steinriegel Chardonnay 2019, Familie Gesellmann, Burgenland

Alluring grapefruit zest notes with white stone fruit and some citrus. Very fresh acidity with attractive wood spice and nutty nuances. Refined with long and persistent finish. 12.5% abv. (UK distributor TBA).

Solitaire 2018, Feiler-Artinger, Burgenland

Blaufrankisch-led blend with 13% Merlot. Attractive blackberry and cherry fruit with silky tannins and structure from 50% new oak. Terrific intensity with fabulous length. 13.5% abv. (Tanners & Waitrose Cellar)

St. Laurent Reserve 2017, Juris, Burgenland 

Garnet hue with appealing red cherry fruit and spicy notes typical of the St. Laurent grape. Herbal and floral nuances with minerality, freshness and velvety tannins. A touch of salt on a lengthy finish. 13.5% abv. (Savage Wines, Northleach).

Ried Golser, Altenberg Blaufrankisch 2018, Paul Achs, Burgenland

Seductive black cherry fruit with spicy notes and white pepper on the nose. Overt but high quality, well-integrated tannins with a fresh line of acidity. An elegant wine with intensity and length. 14.5% abv. (Seeking UK representation).

Cuvee Kerschbaum 2015, Paul Kerschbaum, Burgenland

A high quality blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (40%) and Blaufrankisch (20%). Smoky forest aromas with glorious black and red fruit, along with tobacco and spice notes. Comfortably absorbs 100% new oak. Fine, well-meshed tannins and a lengthy finish. 14.5% abv. (Seeking UK representation).

Ried Grassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Weingut Tement, Sudsteiermark DAC

Green pear and nettle aromas with mineral lime notes on the palate. Mouth-watering freshness with a crisp, dry finish. An alluring Sauvignon. 13% abv. (Top Selection, Wandsworth).

Feiler-Artinger: Tanners & Waitrose Cellar

Paul Achs: seeking UK representation

New Zealand London tasting May 2022

Despite shortfalls in supply created by the poor 2021 harvest and issues with shipping, last week’s New Zealand Wine event provided many reasons to be cheerful. Average bottle prices are up, Kiwi Rosé is booming, vineyard acreage is up, the 2022 harvest is back to normal levels and there’s a new trade agreement coming this year. Geoffrey Dean welcomed the event back after two years away, talks to NZ Winegrowers’ Chris Stroud and picks six wines that stood out at the tasting.

By Geoffrey Dean May 8, 2022
Days after New Zealand reopened itself to the rest of the world after two years of border closures to foreign nationals, New Zealand Wine staged its first London trade tasting since 2020 on May 4 at Lindley Hall.

Notwithstanding a global shortage of the country’s Sauvignon Blanc after a low-yielding 2021 harvest, which was compounded by supply chain issues, Chris Stroud, New Zealand Winegrowers’ market manager for Europe, was in celebratory mood.

The free trade agreement between the UK and New Zealand that was signed in late winter doubtless had something to do with that, as the tariffs on Kiwi still wines will be removed by the end of 2022. These currently stand at 7.5p for 13% abv and under for a 75cl bottle, and 9p for 13.1-15% abv. In addition, the agreement has stipulated that the controversial VI-1 forms, which require wines to be lab tested before shipping, will be permanently scrapped.

Stroud, armed with fresh Nielsen statistics, revealed that the average price point for a bottle of New Zealand wine sold in the UK had risen above £8 for the first time (to £8.06). Driving the increase was the performance of Kiwi rosé, whose sales were up 80% and 77% in value and volume respectively. New Zealand reds were, he said, also performing well, coming in at £10.23 per bottle, nearly a fiver more than the average for all international reds.

Tim Fogarty, from the government-funded New Zealand Trade & Enterprise body, added to the feel-good factor when he revealed the average bottle of a Kiwi white wine sold in the UK was up from £7.28 to £8.01 (MAT to April 9, 2022). That increase of 9% is the highest recorded by any country. “All this confirms consumers trust Brand New Zealand and are happy to pay a premium for it,” Fogarty said.

The one sobering note for New Zealand was the fact that their wine exports for 2021 were down 3% to NZ$1.95 billion. After the record 2020 vintage, when a harvest of 457,000 tons represented an increase of 11%, the 2021 national crush fell as much as 19% to 370,000 tons, largely due to bad frosts. The impact of that for New Zealand was a seven million nine-litre case deficit in the face of global demand. “It’s open knowledge that there is a shortage of Sauvignon Blanc across the board,” said Joe Thompson of Delegat Europe, importers of the Oyster Bay brand.

Early signs are that the 2022 harvest in New Zealand is back to normal levels and will help plug the gap, although no production figures will be available till mid-June and the wines themselves will not hit shelves before August. The area under vine in New Zealand has increased 2% in 2021 to 41,603 hectares, of which 80% is white grapes (with 80% of white production being Sauvignon Blanc).

Geoffrey Dean (l) and Patrick McGrath from Hatch Mansfield

As much as 88% of New Zealand’s wine is exported, the highest percentage for any country in the world (the United States being amongst the lowest at 16%). The fall in exports in 2021, partly due to the worldwide shortage of containers, ended a long run of successive annual increases for New Zealand, whose wine exports doubled from 142 million litres in 2010 to 285m in 2021. The USA, UK, Canada and Australia remain the country’s key markets in that order.

The tasting itself was very well attended, with over 350 labels on display from 83 producers in eight regions and six sub-regions. As many as 28 different varietals were available from Albarino to Zweigelt, underlining the rich diversity of the New Zealand wine industry. While I met no one producer who had flown over for the event, there were UK-based Kiwis from winemaking dynasties present, such as Mackenzie Paton, daughter of Ata Rangi owner, Clive, and Toby Buck, whose family own Te Mata. Ata Rangi is among the 10% of wineries in New Zealand that have been certified organic.

There were two feature areas at the tasting. The first was a ‘Pour Yourself a Glass of New Zealand’, part of a campaign New Zealand Winegrowers are running this May when they are petitioning for a white wine emoji. The second was an Organic Wine Bar, showcasing 70 organic wines that included five different 2020 labels from renowned Central Otago producer Felton Road – their Block 3, Block 5, Calvert, Cornish Point and Bannockburn Pinot Noirs.

SIX OF THE BEST NZ WINES THAT STOOD OUT

Ata Rangi McCrone Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017

From a single vineyard planted in 2001 that, unlike the other Ata Rangi parcels, has a clay seam running through it. ‘This has ‘incredible site expression, with earthier and more robust notes,’ says Mackenzie Paton. Intense, opulent fruit with power, concentration and exceptional length. Supple tannins. A superb Martinborough Pinot from one of New Zealand’s supreme producers of the varietal. 13.5% abv (Liberty)

Esk Valley Heipipi The Terraces 2016

A celebrated Hawke’s Bay label from a very low-yielding, steep, terraced one-hectare vineyard. Made up of 40% Malbec, 33% Merlot and 27% Cabernet Franc, this is beautifully perfumed with blackcurrant, plum and spice notes. Elegant and harmonious with a tight structure from 100% new French oak, this has a long and great life ahead of it. 14% abv (Hatch Mansfield)

Hans Family Estate Viognier 2019

Winemaker Hans Herzog has crafted a finely-scented full-bodied Viognier with rich peach and pear notes with a hint of honey and spice. From very low-yielding, organically farmed vines in Blenheim, this is a complex wine with a gently oily texture and impressive harmony. 14% abv (Vindependents)

Seifried Aotea Sauvignon Blanc 2020

From vines in Nelson that are up to 40 years in age, this Sauvignon has very good depth of ripe, tropical fruit flavours as well as notable minerality and a mouth-wateringly crisp finish. Finely scented with pure melon and lime notes with a hint of gooseberry. 13% abv (Fells)

Te Mata Bullnose Syrah 2019

The best selection of 25 small batch ferments of Hawke’s Bay Syrah from what was a very low-yielding year, the first of a hat-trick of top vintages according to Toby Buck. Highly refined with elevated super-floral aromatics with blueberry, plum and peppery notes. Fine oak (40% new). Cool climate southern hemisphere Syrah at its best. 13.5% abv (Fells)

Villa Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Chardonnay 2019

A wonderful example of how good NZ Chardonnay can be. From a vineyard in Marlborough’s Awatere Valley, this has arrestingly intense flavours with vibrant acidity and lovely concentration. Grapefruit and citrus notes with refined biscuity oak notes and a long finish. 13.5% abv. (Hatch Mansfield)

Cape Agulhas Wine Triangle

Geoffrey Dean discovers South Africa’s Agulhas Wine Triangle

There’s a great deal of excitement about the wines that are coming out of the Agulhas Wine Triangle – South Africa’s southernmost vineyards. This is a region with ancient soils, extreme winds and a raw landscape that are producing cool climate whites and reds of remarkable quality and elegance. On a recent trip to South Africa, Geoffrey Dean visited the region, tasted the wines from the 10 wineries and talked with some of the key players – Bruce Jack, Dirk Human and Pierre Rabie about what makes this new frontier of winemaking so special.

By Geoffrey Dean May 6, 2022

If the Swartland Revolution was the bright new force in the South African wine industry in the early years of the millennium, another is emerging in the form of the Agulhas Wine Triangle (AWT). It was set up by its 10 member wineries in 2019 as a non-profit organisation to showcase the wines, tourism and natural beauty of Agulhas, the most southerly point of the African continent. If the pandemic constrained its early momentum, the body is now well-placed to raise the profile of its top-quality wines on the international stage.

So who is involved in the Agulhas Wine Triangle?

More on its unique terroir shortly, but first an introduction to the triangle’s wineries. These are Black Oystercatcher Wines, Ghost Corner, Giant Periwinkle, Land’s End, Strandveld Wines, and Trizanne Signature Wines from the Elim ward; Sijnn from the Malgas ward; Olivedale from the Swellendam district; Lomond from the Cape Agulhas district; and the Drift Farm from the ward of Napier.

Some of the South African wine industry’s leading figures are involved, including Bruce Jack (Drift Farm), David Niewoudt (Ghost Corner), David Trafford (Sijnn), Dirk Human (Black Oystercatcher) and Trizanne Barnard (Trizanne Signature Wines). These are all highly respected winemakers, but they will be the first to tell you that what makes the AWT’s wines so special are its hugely varied soils and cool climate. Soils of sandstone, shale, iron ferricrete, quartzite and limestone lead to a whole host of different flavour compounds and complex, intense flavours. Ocean winds cool the vineyards.

Unique soils and cool climate

“The soils are different from other areas primarily because of the way they were formed,” Bruce Jack told The Buyer. “When the ancient super continent Gondwana broke up, bits of other continents were left on the edges of Africa. So the soils in Agulhas were made up of other continents – Africa where the Drift is, Antarctica where Black Oystercatcher is and a mix of Australia and India at David Trafford’s Sijnn.

Dirk Human & Bruce Jack

“While there are differences between the soils in the Agulhas Wine Triangle, there are differences with the rest of South Africa. That’s the first point, and the second point is that while a lot of the soils in the rest of South Africa are invigorating, our soils are devigorating leading to a naturally low yield, and naturally more elegant and concentrated wines as a result. And then when you combine that with the weather at the tip of Africa, it’s windy and the wind is cool. Those things have a big impact.”

That the western Cape is the windiest wine region in the world is another key factor for Jack. “The winds in the Agulhas Wine Triangle are predominantly coming from the south-east and the south-west, off the ocean,” he continued. “The majority of the vineyards are by the ocean and that has a significant effect in summer months. In winter months, it has less of an effect as there’s less wind and you don’t get as cold winters as you do on higher-lying areas or further inland. That’s one of the reasons why the white wines of the Agulhas Wine Triangle are so delicious.”

The AWT’s very isolation is actually more of a strength than a weakness in Jack’s view. “There’s a self-sufficiency here as a result, a philosophy if you like, that has a huge impact,” he declared. “Terroir doesn’t exist without human interaction with it. Farmers here have to be independent and resourceful because of the distance from the traditional wine services. You don’t get someone out on the same day who can fix the press, or viticulturists from Stellenbosch or Paarl available on a whim.”

“There is a lot of trial and error, and this means that, layered onto different soils and climate, a lot of the institutional wisdom that exists in Stellenbosch is not applicable to our terroir – the different ways we prune, the different times we prune, how we manage our canopies. The vine husbandry that takes place in this area is different and helps give elegance and lower crop levels. So all of those things combined mean we offer something different and really exciting.”

Distinctive whites and reds

What is remarkable about the AWT’s white wines is not just their exceptional quality but also their extraordinary capacity for longevity. “That is unusual in the world, never mind in South Africa,” Jack professed. “For a 15-year old wine from Elim to win the Old Mutual award for the best Sauvignon Blanc in SA is mind-blowing.” This wine was The Berrio 2006, made by Jack himself from fruit out of grower Francis Pratt’s vineyards.

Some of Bruce Jack’s range

“Those international wine judges who hadn’t come across Elim Sauvignons from the mid 2000s couldn’t believe what they were seeing. The wine was so fresh and had so much life to give still. I’m not knocking New Zealand, but you don’t get 15-year old Sauvignons from there that develop nicely. Theirs are incredibly powerful and wonderfully engaging in youth but they don’t have the longevity that ours do. Even Sauvignons from Sancerre, as well as whites from Bordeaux, don’t look any better than Elim Sauvignons after 15 years. So it’s an exceptional area from a white perspective.”

As for the triangle’s red wines, they are notable for their elegant, crisp, crunchy red fruited and lower alcohol levels. “These cool summers we get are the key, giving us a real point of difference from Stellenbosch and Swartland,” Jack said. “In the former, you get quite inky, quite ripe, rich alcoholic red wines. The Swartland is all about robustness, and their wines are quite rustic although they have their own charm of course. In our reds, you’re getting a lot more spice, a lot more herbaceous character and more pepper than elsewhere in the country. While I also like the more ripe, rustic styles, there’s something very beguiling about the elegance you’re getting from this area.”

Equally beguiling is the AWT’s beautiful Nuwejaars Wetlands, a protected conservancy of 47,000 hectares which was formed by 25 local landowners, the Elim community and the Department of Rural Development and Land Reform. Dirk Human, a passionate conservationist, is chairman of the Wetlands and operates safaris through it.

“We’ve chosen to run our land and waterscapes as a special management area to protect our natural world,” he said. “Our irreplaceable wetlands, the peat-like soils here that store carbon, the critically endangered habitat and the wildlife they support can all contribute to a nature-positive Overberg and South Africa.” The Wetlands, which connect the Agulhas National Park and De Mond Nature Reserve, provide ideal habitat for a rich diversity of birdlife as well as buffalo, hippo and rare antelope in bontebok and grey rhebok.

Taking a closer look at the wineries involved…

Black Oystercatcher Wines

View from the stoep at Black Oystercatcher

Exceptional white wine producer, specialising in Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Dirk Human planted the vines in 1998 on the family Moddervlei farm, helping to pioneer Elim as a wine ward. Only 48,000 bottles per annum made, with 5% exported, although Human would like to increase both counts. Delightful cottage accommodation available at the winery, which has become a popular destination with a deli, pizza restaurant and shop. Excellent own label craft beer also made on site by an English expatriate, Fraser Crighton.

The Drift Farm

Bruce Jack’s whites winemaker ,Thornton Pillay

The farm, near Napier, is home to Bruce Jack, one of South Africa’s most charismatic and innovative winemakers. Bruce Jack Wines has just made it into the top 20 of Drinks International Magazine’s “The World’s Most 50 Admired Wine Brands” for 2022. Although he skilfully oversees the whole operation, Jack’s excellent white wines are made at Black Oystercatcher by Thornton Pillay, while award-winning Canadian winemaker, Marlize Beyers flies in during harvest to craft a superb range of red wines, renowned for their wacky labels. These include the ‘Gift Horse’ Barbera, the ‘There Are Still Mysteries’ Pinot Noir and the ‘Ghost in the Machine’ Syrah, each single vineyards.

Ghost Corner

David Niewoudt

David Nieuwoudt, the renowned Cederberg cellar master, makes the eight-hour round trip to Elim every Monday for the day to oversee production of his acclaimed Ghost Corner range. The Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc 2020, with its silky quince and white pear notes, is a stunning wine, matured in 400-litre barrels, of which 20% is new. A touch of residual sugar (4g/l) masks race acidity (pH3.3). The Semillon 2019, with an even lower pH, is linear with honeyed notes, while both the Pinot Noir and Syrah are classic cool climate examples.

The Giant Periwinkle

Pierre Rabie

No exports as yet, but if anyone can persuade eccentric Cape Town barrister-cum-winemaker Pierre Rabie to ship some, drinkers will not be disappointed. Named after the sea snail that is pleasant to eat, the impressive range includes Sauvignon Blanc, an SBS blend, Syrah and Pinotage.

Land’s End

No wines tasted but winemaker Shawn Thomas is producing two Syrah and two Sauvignon Blanc labels with strong exports to several markets, including the UK and US.

Lomond

Multiple labels from this scenic estate within the Walker Bay Conservancy, with its 130 hectares under vine and 4-km long dam (and restaurant overlooking it). The vines were planted in 1998 under Distell’s ownership before they sold out seven years ago. Former Simonsig winemaker Hannes Meyer joined in 2020, and crafts several superb Sauvignon Blanc labels, including Pincushion, Sugarbush and Ben Nevis. The Conebush Syrah 2019 from sandy clay and granite soils is another stunning wine.

Olivedale

Olivedale

On vineyards planted right by the Breede River, there is notable minerality in the white wines (from ‘mineral clay 2.5m down under sandy topsoil’ according to winemaker Jolene Le Roux). Her ‘Respect for Nature’ labels – both the Chardonnay and the Tempranillo – showed especially well while her rare Roobernet ‘Mystery of Nature’ (a cross of Cabernet and Alicante Bouschet) had endearing freshness and bright red fruit. Their Edel Laat Oes 2015 noble late harvest Semillon is premier league SA dessert wine.

Sijnn

No wines tasted, but they come with a reputation. Pronounced “Sane”, the winery is owned by Stellenbosch producer David Trafford and business partner Simon Farr, with Charla Bosman the winemaker. Mainly southern French and Portuguese varieties planted as bush vines on rocky soils by the Breede River. The ‘Sijnn Red’ and ‘Sijnn White’ labels, which are Shiraz and Chenin Blanc-driven respectively, have been especially well received.

Strandveld

Winemaker Conrad Vlok (in pink shirt)

South Africa’s southernmost winery, very close to Cape Agulhas, produces a top-class Sauvignon Blanc label named Poffaderbos, which is flinty with a long mineral finish as well as some texture and richness from five months of lees contact. Winemaker Conrad Vlok also produces some excellent reds, with his Grenache 2020 showing freshness and appealing cherry fruit (old oak only). The Navigator 2019  blend (70% Syrah, 26% Grenache, 4% Viognier) comfortably absorbs 35% new oak and has lovely fruit. The savoury single varietal Syrah 2019 displayed distinctive peppery and meaty nuances typical of Elim.

Trizanne Signature Wines

Trizanne Barnard, a top-class surfer with film star looks, is one of SA’s rising winemaking stars. Her Reserve Syrah 2019 won the Old Mutual Trophy for Best Shiraz in South Africa last year, while her Semillon-Sauvignon ’19 blend (both labels from Elim fruit) is as good as any SSB in South Africa.

The best SA game lodges & wine cellars

These lodges offer not just wildlife and world-class cuisine but superlative wines, the vast majority of which are leading South African labels and whose vintages date back to the 1990s.

25 March 2022

Author:

Geoffrey Dean

Singita Ebony Lodge, Sabi Sands, Mpumalanga

Singita owns a 5,000ha/12,355 acre concession in the Sabi Sands game reserve adjoining the Kruger National Park. With traverse rights to another 10,000ha/24,710 acres, its game drives can encompass a quarter of the Sabi Sands, one of the richest sources of wildlife on the African continent. Legendary leopard sightings are commonplace, as are close encounters with the rest of the ‘Big Five’ game animals. More on the wildlife later but first the wines of Singita, which means ‘Place of Miracles’ in Shangaan.

It is, perhaps, miraculous that Ebony Lodge, with a stunning location by the Sand River, manages to house as many as 8,000 bottles of wine in its refrigerated bush cellar. Experienced sommelier, Ngoni Mtizwa, oversees it and runs daily tastings for guests. Enjoy these with meals or choose from Singita’s multiple labels from 85 producers. All South African wines are included in the cost of a stay, with only Champagne, the sole foreign interloper, being charged as an extra. Given the high quality of the local sparkling wines, it is easy to stick to these. Other styles that come recommended are Eben Sadie’s red Columella blend from 2012 and Kanonkop Estate’s Paul Sauer 2003, an excellent year for what is arguably South Africa’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon.

A deep cellar

Even older vintages are stored in Singita’s maturation facility in Stellenbosch where a staggering 100,000 bottles of fine wine are kept at a constant 12°C/54°F. Singita maintains such a substantial wine holding because it has other lodges in southern and eastern Africa to supply. It also sends cases of wine to clients who want more of a label/vintage they drank in camp. For example, it has every vintage of Vin de Constance, South Africa’s best known sweet wine, going back to 1992

The good life

Ebony Lodge, with its swimming pool, gym, spa centre, art gallery and impressive animal sculpture shop, lacks for nothing. The dozen large, thatched suites enhance the feeling of uber luxury bush living. From your own plunge pool and expansive deck, you can survey the river beneath you, watching animals and birdlife with a glass in hand. It really is hard to beat. So too is the game viewing on the early morning and late afternoon drives.

A game drive by the River Sand

You are assigned your own guide and tracker, who will take you by vehicle (or on foot). On one early drive, we picked up the spoor of a female leopard and found her up a wild olive tree. We stayed with her for the next two hours, having her completely to ourselves, as she climbed two further trees and offered some special photo opportunities.

Black rhinos

Later, we witnessed the rare sight of a buffalo giving birth, protected from predators by a 300-strong herd. We encountered four black rhinos lying together happily in a muddy depression. Poaching of these magnificent beasts is still an acute concern in South Africa, but thanks to Singita’s well-resourced anti-poaching team, not one rhino has been poached in their concession in the last seven years.

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, Western Cape

Nowhere in the western Cape has more spectacular views than Grootbos. Set in 3,500ha/ 8,649 acres of hilly fynbos, its two five-star lodges – named Forest and Garden – overlook Walker Bay and its miles of beaches and sand dunes. Beyond it, you can see all the way to the Cape Peninsula. To the west lies the picturesque Kleinrivierberg mountain range. Part of the Cape floral kingdom, one of only six in the world, Grootbos is extraordinarily rich in plants, with over 9,000 species, including three that are exclusive to it. That has resulted in more than 2,500 inspect species. Cone bushes are the tallest plants, while the three that must be present to constitute fynbos – proteas, ericas and restios – all proliferate. Take a plant safari through the reserve or traverse it on one of the dozen horses stabled by Grootbos for guests to ride with an experienced equine guide.

Rare wines

Whale watching (in the second half of the year), trail hiking and spa therapy are all possible at Grootbos, which prides itself on its fine cuisine and its 15,000 bottle cellar. Like Singita, these are all South African apart from a few Champagnes, but what makes it such a unique collection is that a third of the wines are Cape Winemaker Guild labels. The Grootbos owner, Michael Lutzeyer, has long been buying up Guild labels – amongst the most exclusive that South Africa has to offer – at their annual auction. These wines are made in small quantities rarely make it to retail. Mature vintages are a Grootbos speciality, Bruce Jack’s glorious CWG Barbera 2013 from his Drift Farm in Elim is one such example.

Heavenly peace

Local winemakers  – whether based in Elim, Cape Agulhas, Stanford, Hemel-en-Aarde or Bot River – are strongly represented on the wine list, which features labels from as many as 127 western Cape producers. As such, it may well be without equal in South Africa. The two lodges are half a kilometre apart, with Forest (and its 16 suites) being adults only, while the recently rebuilt Garden (11 suites) also caters for families and houses the main cellar. Guests can visit it or just admire it through its resplendent glass frontage. The spacious suites, all with picturesque views out towards Walker Bay, are beautifully designed and luxuriously furnished. None of the other suites can be seen from the large verandas, giving the impression that guests have this special floral kingdom to themselves.

Vegan or omnivore

Grootbos’ delectable cuisine is prepared by celebrated chef Ben Conradie. All produce is sourced from the local community, with a fresh array of seafood bought from the fishing port of Gansbaai 10km away. But vegans have a plentiful choice, too: up to eight different options on the lunch menu. A special ‘botanical dinner’ and ‘boma’ dinner under the stars are also available.

View from the pool at Grootbos looking out towards Walker Bay

Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat, Western Cape

A three-hour drive north of Cape Town takes you to Bushmans Kloof, a private inland wilderness reserve of 7,500ha/18,533 acres. Next to it is the 50,000ha/123,553 acre Cederberg Wilderness area, so you really are in the middle of nowhere, with the nearest town of Clanwilliam being over 50km/30 miles away. This beautiful mountainous region bordering the semi-desert Karoo is home to over 1,000 Bushman rock paintings, of which 140 are found on Bushmans Kloof (kloof translates as ‘deep ravine’). The bulk of these are at least 1,500 years old, with a few possibly dating back as far as 10,000 years.

Ancient art

Many of these well-preserved paintings of antelope, sheep, cattle and dancing humans, are on rocky faces under overhangs quite close to the lodge, making them easy to visit. A fascinating collection of old photographs, artefacts and hunting pieces of bushmen is kept in the heritage centre of the homestead, where the owners, the Tollman family, have assembled a notable collection of wildlife art. They also own the Bouchard Finlayson winery in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, which produces some of South Africa’s best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Chris Albrecht, the winemaker, visits periodically to conduct vertical tastings with guests.

Global wine list

As many as ten different Bouchard Finlayson labels are cellared at the lodge, with vintages dating back to 2009. More than 30 other top South African producers also feature on the extensive wine list, including David Nieuwoudt’s outstanding Cederberg range. Interestingly, Nieuwoudt’s grandparents once owned Bushmans Kloof. Where Bushmans Kloof differs from both Singita and Grootbos is that its cellar includes wines from all over the world – France, Italy, Spain, Germany, USA, Australia, New Zealand, Chile and Argentina. Three vintages of Château Margaux from 1983, 1986 and 1989 are available, as is Château Lafite 1986.

Literally stellar

Although Bushmans Kloof does not have big game such as elephant, lion and buffalo, it is home to 36 species of mammals such as gemsbok, eland and the endangered Cape mountain zebra. While two thirds of the reserve is traversable by vehicle, much of it is ideal for hiking and mountain biking. Hiking trails of various lengths are clearly marked, offering wonderful views. Fly-fishing and canoeing are also available, along with spa treatments. At night, thanks to the complete lack of light pollution, the African constellation of stars is nothing less than memorable.

Wildflower heaven

Between mid-August and mid-September, another spectacular sight is the blanket of multi-coloured wildflowers over the reserve. “We get people from across the globe and from Cape Town coming to see the wildflowers here,” Rory du Plessis, the reserve’s general manager, says. “Up to half the valley is carpeted with several species of Namaqualand daisies - pinks, oranges, yellows and purples. It is unbelievably beautiful here then.” Indeed, it is beautiful whatever time of the year you go to Bushmans Kloof, a small, tucked-away gem of a five-star retreat.

Discovering the hidden gems of Collio DOC

Whether it’s its tiny size, proximity to Slovenia or its remote hilly location, very little is known about the hidden gem of a wine region that is Collio Gorizia DOC in the North East of Italy. With almost 90% of vineyards planted to white varieties, and multi-generational winemaker families, Geoffrey Dean found a treasure trove of quality white wines – from the cult skin contact wines of Sasa Radikon to the many examples of wines made from Friulano, Malvasia and Pinot Grigio.

By Geoffrey Dean February 2, 2022

...“Central to the whole identity of the Collio is the long family history of winemakers, several of whose surnames sound more Slovenian than Italian,” writes Dean.

Wine writers and drinkers alike love nothing better than to uncover a hidden gem of a region that produces good wine. Given that Collio Gorizia (Collio for short) is the third oldest DOC in Italy, it might seem a misnomer to call it ‘hidden,’ but to the majority of UK consumers it has remained largely unknown.

Perhaps, it is its tiny size – a slither of land shaped like a half-moon or croissant that is 20 km long and barely 4km across at its widest point; or maybe it is its remote, hilly location, bordering Slovenia in the top right-hand corner of Italy near the town of Gorizia in Friuli Venezia Giulia. What is not in doubt, though, is the quality of the Collio’s wines and the skill of its winemakers, many of whom are aiming for greater distribution in the UK.

Getting to know the grape varieties of Collio DOC

While the Collio region produces some premium red wines, it has won a deserved reputation among cognoscenti for some of Italy’s most prestigious whites. Indeed, 87% of its 1500 hectares under vine are planted to white varietals. Pinot Grigio is the most common (comprising 26% of all plantings), closely followed by Sauvignon Blanc (19%), but many of the most interesting white wines are made from Friulano (14%), Ribolla Gialla (10%) and Malvasia Istriana (3%).

Formerly known as Tocai Friulano, until the EU banned the name in 2008 after pressure from Tokaj producers in Hungary, Friulano has been proved by ampelography and DNA profiling to be Sauvignonasse. Introduced into Friuli in the early 19th century, Friulano has almond and herbal notes as well as a fuller body than Sauvignon Blanc if less acidity and aroma. Notable producers of it include Felluga, Castello di Spessa, Zorzon, Bracco, Fruscalzo, Humar, Formentini, Villanova and Bolzicco.

Ribolla Gialla is an indigenous variety from Friuli, dating back to the 13th century. First written mention of it can be traced back to 1296 when the Pope settled a dispute about its sales between the bishop of Trieste and a monastery in Venice. The village of Oslavia, a stone’s throw from the Slovenian border, is regarded as the varietal’s spiritual home, with fermentation traditionally done on the skins, with many orange wines resulting. Oslavia producers include Radikon, Fiegl, Gravner, Princic, Primosic and La Castellada, while Korsic, Mania and Marcuzzi also make good white versions of Ribolla in Floriano del Collio.

Malvasia Istriana has been grown in the Collio almost as long – since the 14th century – although it is likely to have originated in what is now north-west Croatia. We encountered some superb dry examples of it, with many showing floral perfume notes as well as hints of salt and spice. Two fine examples of it are listed below, but others come from Casa delle Rose, Pascolo, Il Carpino and Colmello di Grotta.

Soil, wine styles and a sense of history 

The Collio’s complex soil structure features clay, sand, silt and minuscule marine fossils. “This layering of different soil types is called ‘flysch’ and it’s the secret ingredient behind our wines, giving minerality,” Paolo Bianchi, former director of the Collio Consorzio, declared.  The Collio also benefits both from the cool winds from the east and warm sea-breezes from the nearby Adriatic, which help dry out vineyards in what is one of Italy’s wetter regions. Another key climactic factor is the region’s wide diurnal range, which helps to explain the notable freshness evident in Collio wines of all colours.

The Collio’s production code permits 18 official wines that qualify for DOC status, with the vast majority being single varietals (12 white and four red as well as two blends – Collio Bianco and Collio Rosso). There are also sub-zones within the DOC – examples including Oslavia, Plessiva, Pradis and Zegla. Locals proudly liken them to Crus in Burgundy.

Grappa Nonino, 2019’s best distillery in the world

Central to the whole identity of the Collio is the long family history of winemakers, several of whose surnames sound more Slovenian than Italian. The area, originally part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, was a fierce battleground in the Great War, with trenches still in evidence, and after the Second World War, the hills were split between Italy and Yugoslavia. Only in 2008, when Slovenia gained independence, were boundary controls lifted. At one point during our winery visits, we cut through Slovenia to do one side of a triangle instead of two.

No appraisal of Collio would be complete without mention of Grappa Nonino, which was voted best distillery in the world in 2019 by Wine Enthusiast. Founded in 1897, it is situated a few kilometres outside the Collio region but is part of its DNA. Its grappa is amongst Italy’s finest, while its Quintessentia Amaro Nonino, a liqueur, was winner of the Ultimate Spirits Challenge in 2021.

12 wines from Collio that caught the eye

Stella’s Erika Barbieri

Tenuta Stella, Malvasia Istriana DOC Collio 2019

Talented winemaker Erika Barbieri has crafted a superb Malvasia from very low-yielding, organically-farmed vines of 15-20 years age; wild yeasts add complexity while 60% malolactic fermentation gives extra body and richness; a complex wine that spent ten months in untoasted casks.

Tenuta Villanova, Friulano DOC Collio 2019

The same family has owned the Villanova estate since 1932 and have 100ha under vine; very expressive nose with apricot, apple and spice aromas; spent six months on the lees in concrete tanks, giving it complexity and body; elegant with pronounced acidity.

Bolzicco, Friulano DOC Collio 2019

From 1960s vines, this is another fine example of Friulano that saw only stainless steel; lots of freshness, concentration and length as well as some saltiness and characteristic almond notes on the palate.

Livon, Malvasia Istriana Soluna DOC Collio 2020

From low-yielding vines on Ponca soil, consisting of layers of minerals from the prehistoric sea bed as well as clay and limestone (in the village of Ruttars). Herbal sage notes give way to attractive citrus fruit; velvety creaminess from eight months on lees (80% stainless steel, 20% used oak); also possessing notable minerality and excellent length.

Marcuzzi, Ribolla Gialla DOC Collio 2019

Appealing apricot and peach flavours on this single varietal Ribolla Gialla, made by Riccardo Marcuzzi. Excellent freshness and length. A good food wine, especially with risotto.

Sasa Radikon

Radikon, Ribolla Gialla IGT Venezia Giulia 2017

Sasa Radikon has a cult following for his whole range, notably this orange wine. “Orange wines were re-born here thanks to two men – my late father Stanko and Boris Primosic,” Radikon told me. “Why do we use Ribolla Gialla? Because it has a thick skin.” He revealed his sunset-coloured orange wine underwent skin contact for three months and had no sulphur dioxide added to it. Very complex with quince, orange zest and apricot notes, this big-textured wine has vibrant acidity.

Tenuta Angoris, Pinot Grigio DOC Collio 2020

Light copper colour thanks to cold maceration on the skins for ten hours. Very fresh acidity and saltiness counter-balances 13.5% abv. 5% spent ten months in old oak tonneaux with the rest in stainless steel. Time on lees gives body and softness to a wine that is a pleasure to drink.

Fruscalzo, Pinot Grigio DOC Collio 2019

Clean with no pink hue despite some skin contact which gives it a bright straw colour. Elegant and fresh with peach and pear notes as well as some subtle oiliness.

Tenute Marco Felluga e Russiz Superiore, Sauvignon Blanc DOC Collio 2020

Sauvignon Blanc was planted as long as 150 years ago in Collio, and this fine example has herbal aromas with passion fruit notes. Clean, elegant and refined, it is quite full-bodied at 13.5% abv but has vibrant acidity to counter-balance. Very persistent finish.

Gradis’Ciutta, Riserva Collio Bianco DOC 2016

Robert Princic, who also makes good Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, has fashioned an alluring blend of Friulano, Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla. Until 1992, when ‘international’ varieties were added, these were the only grapes that were permitted. Complex and long, while still fresh, this underlines how well the blend works.

Tenuta Baroni del Mestri, Merlot Barone di Schoenberg DOC Collio 2018

A good illustration of how Collio can also produce high quality reds. This single varietal Merlot went through 21 days of maceration and was matured in oak barriques, 25% being new. Lovely plummy fruit with freshness, concentration, well-integrated tannins and impressive length.

Tenuta Stella, Pinot Nero DOC Collio 2019

There are only eight hectares of Pinot Noir under vine in the Collio, but this lightly-coloured, delicate and elegant example impressed. From 60-year old hillside vines that are a mixture of clones, it showed some classy raspberry and cherry fruit as well as structure from maturation in 50% new barriques. Untoasted, these included some Friulian mulberry, which adds roundness and is less intrusive.

Where in the UK can you buy these wines?

• Russiz Superiore (Berkman)

• Castello di Spessa (Delitalia, Barnsley)

• Tenuta Borgo Conventi (Annessa Imports, London)

• Tenuta Stella (Pandemonio di Luca Dusi, London)

• Fruscalzo (Colosseum Wines, Scotland)

• Livon (Eurowines)

• Primosic (FortyFive 10 degrees)

• Radikon (Dynamic Wines)

• Gravner (Raeburn Fine Wines)

• Fiegl (Virgin Wines)

• Dario Princic (Les Caves de Pyrene)

How 2020 was a freak year in Burgundy

The 2020 vintage was the hottest year ever in Burgundy – beating even 2003 and previous hottest vintage 2018 – and there were also drought issues. Miraculously, however, there are no signs in the wines of over-ripeness or cooked characters and, writes Geoffrey Dean, there is the right amount of structure and substance to allow these wines to age for a considerable length of time. Dean hears from Albert Bichot’s team of the technical adjustments they made to cope with the challenges and recommends six of the wines from its extensive range that you need to have on your buying radar.

By Geoffrey DeanJanuary 13, 2022

.“The hottest vintage ever,” professed Matthieu Mangenot, Albert Bichot’s assistant technical director, during the leading Burgundy producer’s trade tasting of the 2020 vintage in London in December. And after sampling eight whites and 16 reds from their six Burgundian estates, it was clear that 2020 is a very fine vintage that will give drinkers a huge amount of pleasure.

The 2020 vintage will also go down as a visual freak – for the reds that is. They have so much colour that drinkers will be forgiven for wondering if it is indeed a glass of Burgundian Pinot Noir in front of them. “It is a very dark colour and not normal,” Mangenot admitted. “We were surprised how Pinot could give such good colour, but there is no sign of over-extraction – it is the vintage.” Richard Bampfield MW, Albert Bichot’s longtime UK brand ambassador, concurred that the hues of the 2020s were “unique over the last 20 years.”

It is possible of course that the heat of 2020 was a key factor behind the deeper colour of the Pinot Noirs. “2020 was much higher in terms of polyphenols even than 2015, which had the previous record,” Mangenot continued. Yet the 2018 vintage, which he said was the previous hottest, did not see the same colour.

Matthieu Mangenot and export director Delphine de la Fouchardiere in London, Dec 2021

“We had to deal with several issues which were quite challenging. If you look at the figures, 2020 is the hottest vintage ever. Even 2003 was a bit cooler compared to 2020. We were a bit frightened by the climactic conditions of the vintage as we had in mind what happened in 2003 and the balances of the wines then, but 2020 was totally different to 2003 – you can’t really compare the two. Because of the water shortage the Chardonnay slowed down and we had quite a hectic maturation process…kind of stop and go with the maturity affected by the lack of water. Chardonnay was more affected than the reds by the water shortage. The concentration increased thanks to the heat and the north wind. There were no issues of sorting, though, and the fruit aromas were not overcooked.”

Mangenot revealed that very slow extraction, longer cold soaking and extra whole bunch maceration had been three important technical adjustments for the 2020 vintage. “The idea was to extract very slowly and get as much fruitiness and expression of the terroir as we could. We used a bit more cold soaking: 5-7 days to get more fruit and freshness. We also did a little bit more whole bunch maceration – more than the 20% we normally do. It was up to 40-50% in some wines. It did not increase acidity levels if you look at the lab results but did help freshness. It also lowered alcohol levels a bit too. We also moved from pigeage to pumpovers, and got good results here with the freshness. Bottling was a bit earlier than normal to help retain that freshness.”

The importance of when to pick was especially acute in 2020 but the signs are that Albert Bichot got it right in its six estates: Domaine Long-Depaquit in Chablis, Domaine du Clos Frantin and Domaine du Château-Gris in Nuits-St-Georges, Domaine du Pavillon in Pommard, Domaine Adélie in Mercurey and Domaine de Rochegrès in Moulin-à-Vent. Although harvest was earlier than usual, so was budburst, which meant that the desired 100 days of ripening elapsed between flowering and picking.

No cooked characters or over-ripeness were evident in the wines tasted. Importantly, they look to have the combination of substance and structure to last. The oak regime appears to have been skilfully judged, with no over-oakiness apparent. Between 20-35% new oak was used for the whites, and 30-40% for the reds.

Six wines that stood out from Albert Bichot in 2020

Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Charmes’, 2020, Domaine du Pavillon

Intense citrus notes with fabulous concentration; exceptional length

Chablis Grand Cru ‘Moutonne Monopole’, 2020, Domaine Long-Depaquit

Pronounced minerality; very attractive fruit and steely line of acidity

Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, 2020, Domaine du Pavillon

Magisterial, complex Corton with remarkable concentration, intensity and length

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Chabiots’, 2020

Very seductive red fruit with herbal notes; elegant with silky tannins and a very long finish

Corton Grand Cru ‘Clos des Marechaudes’ Monopole, 2020, Domaine du Pavillon

Complex with excellent length and lots of freshness; quality tannins with a silky thread; power yet finesse

Echezeaux Grand Cru, 2020, Domaine du Clos Frantin

A veritable tour de force with delectable concentrated fruit, super fine tannins and great persistence

Top 10 wines of 2021

It comes as little surprise that five of Geoffrey Dean’s Top wines of 2021 are from South African estates. Dean is a massive fan of South African wine and, in a window of opportunity, he managed to get to SA in 2021 for a blissful five weeks of catching up with old friends and discovering new wines. These are the wines that stood out and which he would recommend, plus five more from across the globe.

Anwilka, Stellenbosch 2017, Western Cape 14% abv

An exceptional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (47%), Syrah (46%) and Petit Verdot (7%). Seductive herbal and boysenberry aromas greet you before top-notch Helderberg fruit dances on the palate with its blackberry and cassis notes. While it has power and weight, with added structure from 19 months in 400-litre barrels, 50% of which were new, the tannin structure, while quite overt, is supple. Concentrated, complex and long, this ‘lekker’ wine has a long life ahead of it.

Château Pesquié, Cuvée Juliette, AOC Ventoux 2020, 13.5% abv

This blend of Clairette (70%) and Grenache Blanc (30%) from an estate at the foot of Mont Ventoux is blessed with wonderful purity of citrus fruit and freshness. From biodynamically-farmed vines grown at 300m on limestone and clay soils, the wine is vinified in concrete eggs with malolactic fermentation blocked. Salinity and minerality are hallmarks of this delightful production of 2000 bottles named after the dame of the Chaudière family that owns the estate, Juliette.

Chêne Bleu, Pont des Arts Rouge Vieilles Vignes Réserve Spéciale 2015, IGP Vaucluse, 14% abv

Just 1200 bottles of this blend of old vine Grenache (55%) and Syrah (35%), with a touch of Mourvèdre, were made from fruit grown at 500m on the steep, rocky slopes of the Chêne Bleu winery in the southern Rhône Valley. Thibault Pontallier, son of the late Paul of Château Margaux fame, collaborated in its production, and the result is a masterly cuvée, notable for its elegance, refined tannins and fresh acidity. Blackcurrant and black cherry fruit, along with notes of rosemary and black pepper, make this an absolute delight to drink now, even if it has clear cellaring potential. Art lovers will enjoy the label, one of Dutchman Piet Mondrain’s iconic works from 1921.

Domaine de Mourchon, Family Syrah, AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages 2018, 14.5% abv

The winery was founded by a Briton, Walter McKinlay, in 1998 when he bought a parcel of land at 350m above the picturesque village of Séguret, just north of Gigondas. His daughter Kate now runs the estate with her husband Hugo Levingston, while Sebastien Magnouac makes the wine. From 60-year old vines yielding only 15hl/ha, this Family Syrah has glorious red and black fruit with suave high quality tannins. Matured in old oak 600l demi-muids for two years.

Duca di Salaparuta, Duca Enrico 2017, Terre Siciliane IGP, 14% abv

A superb single varietal example of Sicily’s indigenous Nero d’Avola grape. Produced from fruit on the Duca di Salaparuta’s prime estate, Tenuta Suor Marchesa, this flagship label is already very approachable for a varietal renowned for its high levels of tannins. Maturation for 18 months in old oak, followed by 18 months in bottle before release, have proved beneficial. The tannins are soft, while the red plum and balsamic notes, with hints of rhubarb and medicinal herbs, are very beguiling as are the wine’s freshness and length.

Flagstone Winery, Time Manner Place, Pinotage 2017, Breedekloof, Western Cape 14.5% abv

One of South Africa’s great Pinotages. From a tiny, low-yielding high altitude parcel in the Breedekloof district in the Breede River Valley, this has complex blueberry and red cherry fruit, smoky dark chocolate and roast nut notes with mocha, cigar box and mint aromas. It effortlessly absorbs 100% new oak (a mix of French, American and Hungarian) which adds richness and structure. Mineral freshness, well-integrated quality tannins and a very lengthy finish make this a wine to cherish. Take a bow Gerhard Swart, head winemaker.

Klein Constantia, Block 382, Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Constantia, Western Cape 13.5% abv

No South African winery can boast a grander range of Sauvignon than Klein Constantia. It has 43 different blocks of the varietal, and has identified the six top terroir-driven single vineyard sites. Block 382 is perhaps the most special, located on a higher-lying E/SE facing slope. Winemaker Matt Day has crafted a beautifully pure expression of the varietal that is captivatingly aromatic with wild scrub and nettle notes with granadilla and passion fruit on the palate. Eight months on the lees in old 500-litre oak barrels adds some richness, which is counter-balanced by flinty minerality and vibrant acidity. The finish lingers on and on.

Muratie Wine Estate, Ansela van de Caab 2017, Stellenbosch, Western Cape, 14% abv

One of the oldest and most beautiful farms in the western Cape, dating back to 1685, Muratie is situated on the higher ranges of the Simonsberg to the north of Stellenbosch. Longtime owners Rijk Melck and his family have nurtured the most enticing of destinations, with its home cooking and regular live bands, and their winemaker Hattingh de Villiers has lifted their Bordeaux blend (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest being Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) to new levels. Given structure by 60% new oak, in which it spent 24 months, it is a complex, multi-layered wine with tremendous concentration. Cassis, blackcurrant, plum and violet notes with fine-grained tannins and a very persistent finish.

Pikes, Traditionale Riesling 2021, Clare Valley, South Australia, 11.5% abv

A brilliant example of Clare Valley riesling from the Pikes winery, which goes from strength to strength after being founded in 1984. Andrew Pike, managing director as well as viticulturist, produces top-quality fruit from immaculately-tended Polish Hill vineyards. Winemaker Steve Baraglia profits from a very low pH of 2.93 to fashion a delicate wine with a mouthwatering backbone of acidity and glorious fresh lime intensity. Throw in citrus blossom and mineral notes, as well a dash of residual sugar (4.6g/l) to counter TA of 8.22g/l, and you have a well-balanced, extremely concentrated but refined wine with a seamless and lengthy finish.

Simon Halliday and Geoffrey Dean (r) tasting Doddie’s wine at Handford

Schalk Burger & Sons, Doddie’5 Red Blend 2019, Groenberg, Western Cape, 14% abv

Rugby fans should look no further than this outstanding blend of five cultivars – Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Mourvèdre and Petit Verdot. Made by former Springbok lock Schalk Burger senior and his younger son Tiaan, it is named Doddie’5 in honour of Doddie Weir, who wore the no. 5 shirt for Scotland and the British Lions in his heyday but who has been stricken with Motor Neurone Disease. Distributed in the UK by former England back Simon Halliday’s Sporting Wine Club, £5 from the £20 RRP goes towards Weir’s ‘My Name’5 Doddie Foundation’, which seeks a cure for MND. All the fruit came from the Burgers’ Welbedacht Estate near Wellington in the Groenberg ward. You can read more about this remarkable wine by clicking here.