Tasting Cheval Blanc 2005 & 2009

100,000 meals delivered to children in need was the serious purpose of a once-in-a-lifetime charity dinner at The Birley Wine Club last week. The frivolous side was drinking Krug, Cheval Blanc 2005 and 2009 as well as rounding the evening off with Yquem 2011. For Geoffrey Dean it was a rare opportunity to see how the vintages are evolving, with the ‘vintage of the millennium’, the 2005, possessing the structure and freshness to take it easily into the 2030s and beyond.

By Geoffrey DeanDecember 24, 2021

“You could say this was the vintage where winegrowers could sit back and relax in an armchair,” said technical director Pierre-Olivier Clouet, about the 2009 Cheval Blanc.

Much credit must go to the Birley Wine Club, and its members and guests, for raising £102,000 at a charity wine auction dinner at Annabel’s in London in early December. If patrons were fortunate enough to drink Cheval Blanc from both the great 2005 and 2009 vintages as well as Krug NV and Yquem 2011, they dipped into their pockets to bid generously for several lots of classic wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and Italy.

More on the wines drunk later but, given the proximity to Christmas, first a word on where the proceeds raised are going – to the Food from the Heart Campaign. This was launched last year by the Caring Family Foundation, which estimates that two million children face food insecurity in the UK each month. “This Christmas, we aim to distribute 100,000 meals to children in need,” revealed Richard Caring, adding that the foundation that he and his wife Patricia set up is funding projects both in the UK and Brazil. These are supporting both women and children’s causes by working closely with grassroots organisations to have a long-term impact.

The fact that Pierre Lurton, the CEO of Château Cheval Blanc and Château d’Yquem, flew in from France to attend the dinner underlined his brands’ commitment to the evening. He admitted that the 2021 vintage in Bordeaux was looking “average’ but there was nothing average about the vintages of the wines that were tasted.

First the 2005 Cheval Blanc. Pierre-Olivier Clouet, the winery’s technical director, considers it one of the greatest vintages of the millennium. “Yes Cheval Blanc 2005 is a very great wine, and it’s not hard to see why,” he said. “Drought conditions set in very early and lasted throughout the growing season, having a beneficial effect. This resulted in a correspondingly early stop to vegetative growth, an early start to ripening and very small berries. These small grapes were remarkably concentrated in terms of colour, aroma, tannin and acidity. This added up to a perfectly complete wine.”

The figures for 2005 are telling. As few as 344 millimetres of rain between January and September (compared to the average of 572) in what was a very warm year (temperatures between April and September being 1.7C higher than the seasonal average). The sugar levels were unprecedented but the fruit was not excessively ripe or candied. Acidity levels were a little lower than normal but a pH of 3.92 meant total SO2 levels were not unduly high at 94 mg/l.

The wine itself (14% abv) was exceptionally dark, deep and intense. Rich in every aspect, it had concentrated black fruit on the palate and a beautiful tannic texture. If power and richness came from the Merlot (51%), elegance and complexity was provided by the Cabernet Franc (49%). It has a long life ahead of it, with enough freshness and structure to last well into the 2030s or longer.

As for the 2009 Cheval Blanc, Clouet described it as another great vintage. “Stage after stage of the growing season took place seamlessly and under ideal conditions,” he said. “You could say this was the vintage where winegrowers could sit back and relax in an armchair. Flowering occurred quickly and evenly at just the right time, as did veraison. Ripening took place uninterrupted over a long period, and we were able to start picking in mid-September – one plot after the next, each at optimum maturity since the weather was so cooperative.

“We often say at Cheval Blanc that we like to pick the fruit at ‘al dente’ when the grapes are juicy and fresh. We tasted them as soon as they arrived in the cellar as we did the first must. It was clear the wine would be very full-bodied and generous. There was an incredible odour of cherry and raspberry in the cellar, and we were sure a great vintage was in the making. What makes Cheval Blanc so unusual is that the Cabernet Franc adds inimitable freshness and elegance, with hints of menthol and eucalyptus, resulting in a delicate balance and great ageing potential thanks to its tannic backbone.”

These tannins in the 2009 are so fine-grained that they melt in the mouth, feeling silky on the mid-palate. Seductive floral aromas, including violet, and a cornucopia of notes of fresh fig, blackcurrant, blackberry, raspberry and mint were apparent. Above all, there was perfect balance between exuberant concentration and finesse thanks to the wine’s remarkable freshness (probably enhanced by a lower pH of 3.71). Abv again came in at 14%.

The Yquem 2011 was creamy and opulent in a year where conditions were perfect for noble rot. Five ‘tris’ or passes through the vines were made to pick the grapes, according to Sandrine Garbay, Yquem’s head winemaker.  “Our average yield is still only about 10 hl/ha, but the level of residual sugar has gone up,” she said. “It always used to be 100-110 g/l but now we aim for 120-140g/l. The main changes since I took over as cellar master in 1998 have been to lower the time of ageing in barrels from 36 to 24 months, and to limit the introduction of air into wines during barrel-ageing. We rack from barrel to barrel without air, which helps to preserve the fruits aromas in the wine, particularly the thiols. That’s why our wines are now quite better to drink young, even two years after bottling because the fruits are there.

Whisky tourism in Islay

8 amazing Islay whisky distilleries to discover

15 DECEMBER 2021

By Geoffrey Dean

Now that we’re well into fireside sipping season, Geoffrey Dean reveals the key differences between Islay’s gems, from peaty and smoky to fruit-forward, as well as where to try them.

For the whisky lover, there is nowhere quite like Islay. The southernmost island of the Inner Hebrides, which lies just 25 miles from Northern Ireland, has nine distilleries, with a tenth under construction and a couple more in the planning phase.

In addition, the old Port Ellen distillery is being redeveloped and brought back into production. Several Islay brands enjoy legendary status among cognoscenti, and each one has its own special characteristics and different on-site experience.

Islay is Scotland’s fifth biggest island, being 25 miles from top to bottom and 15 across at its widest point. Throw in the friendliest of local residents (who number 3,250), a variety of accommodation from cottages to comfortable hotels, one of Scotland’s best golf courses (the Machrie) and some stunning scenery, and you have all the ingredients for a memorable whisky tourism holiday.

1.Ardnahoe

Islay’s newest distillery started production in 2018. The owners had a ceremonial opening of a single malt cask in early November – to mark its ascension to Scotch status after the obligatory three years maturation in oak – but do not plan to release any whisky for sale for another couple of years. Their elevated visitor centre should not be missed, for its views to the east towards the neighbouring island of Jura are breathtakingly beautiful. A very large lounge and restaurant area are ideal for morning coffee or lunch, while multiple experiences are available as Paul Graham, the visitor centre operations manager, explained. “We have the most varied experiences of all the distilleries on

Islay,” he said. “You can go right through the production process; you can do the warehouse experience, the blending experience, food and whisky pairings. There is a daily tasting at 3pm from wine, Bourbon and sherry casks as well as two tours per day, at 10am and 4pm. Ours is a pretty unique Islay whisky, with fruit at the front followed by smoke at the back – a sort of role reversal of your usual Islay single malt.”

2.Bunnahabhain

A couple of miles to the north of Ardnahoe, along a narrow winding road is Bunnahabhain, a distinguished distillery celebrating its 140th anniversary this year.  Right by the sea, with its own jetty, Bunnahabhain also enjoys superb views across to Jura as well as to Colonsay and Mull to the north. Its new visitor centre is not as big as Ardnahoe’s but what it does have is 30 different labels, most single casks, in the shop. Billy Sinclair, the visitor centre manager,

revealed it sells about 10,000 20cl bottles per annum to visitors, who relish the huge variety of different types of vessels – around 15 – that the distillery uses for maturation. While 70% of Bunnahabhain’s casks are sherry butts for Manzanilla, Oloroso, Amontillado, Palo Cortado and Pedro Ximenez, also used are red and white wine barriques from Italy, Spain and France as well as Port, Calvados, Madeira and Marsala vessels. And of course, Bourbon.  Many of these can be tried at the daily 10.30am and 2.30pm tastings. Bunnahabhain’s unique selling point is that, while the rest of Islay’s whiskies are largely peated, 80% of its products are unpeated. “Our 12, 18 and 25-year old single malts are all unpeated,” Sinclair said. “Our peated labels have about 40-45 parts per million of peat, which is about the same as Lagavulin and Caol Ila but they have a very different taste because of the nature of the spirit. Our stills are massive and we only fill them about a third, so you get a huge amount of copper contact, leading to a lighter, softer more delicate spirit without very many of the heavier medicinal phenols.”

3. Bowmore

From Bunnahabhain, it is a 12-mile drive or cycle to the Bowmore distillery in the centre of the island. En route, you pass the Ballygrant Inn, which has one of the great national collection of Scottish whiskies. Bowmore’s maturation warehouse is the oldest in Scotland, dating back to 1779, and according to distillery manager, David Turner, Bowmore is one of only six Scottish producers who malt some of their own barley. The others are Laphroaig, Kilchoman,

Springbank, Balvenie and Highland Park.  “The tropical fruit flavours that Bowmore are renowned for all start in the malt barns,” Turner said. “We in the centre of Islay are a middlingly peated distillery, with those in the north being lightly peated and the south more heavily so. We use predominantly Bourbon casks for maturation, but 22%

are sherry butts and we’ve also been using wine and port vessels for many years.”  What is an excellent visitor centre at Bowmore attracts around 24,000 visitors a year.

4.Bruichladdich

Just across from Bowmore, although it is an 8-mile drive around the bay, lies Bruichladdich and its extremely impressive visitor centre and shop. Master distiller Adam Hannett took me into the distillery warehouse, a treasure trove of more than 200 different single casks, some of which came from the most famous wineries in Sauternes and

Pomerol as well as Chapoutier in the Rhone. The reddish hue in the whiskies matured in red wine barriques was noticeable. The forward-thinking Hannett delights in experimentation, having started whisky production from rye in 2017. “It’s relatively unusual but more people are doing it, although we’re the only ones on Islay at present,” Hannett revealed. “You get lovely spicey, citrus notes and fine texture and complexity, with the wood really doing its job.

We use a mix of 55% rye and 45% malted barley.” Bruichladdich’s rich array of whiskies includes its Octomore label, the most peated whisky made on Islay with between 80-100 ppm of peat.

5.Kilchoman

Islay’s most westerly distillery is Kilchoman, on a scenic farm located half a dozen miles inland from Bruichladdich.  The two brands’ joint point of difference is that they alone on Islay use barley grown on the island, with the other distilleries bringing theirs in from the Scottish Borders (although Laphroaig generally source theirs from the

east coast of England, notably Norfolk). Set up by English entrepreneur Anthony Wills in 2005, Kilchoman, which makes single malts only, has been a major success story. Malting their barley on site, they started off producing 50,000 litres of alcohol in 2006 but will have increased that to 630,000 litres by next year. An expansive new visitor centre, which opened in February 2020, has brought in important income streams from the cafe and gift shop. “We’ve chosen to do everything on site, producing Scotland’s only single farm single malt,” Wills said.  “We warehouse almost everything here, and will build four more warehouses over the next eight years. From a staff of seven in 2005-06, we now employ forty people. Our style is softer and fruitier, with not quite the same power as say Laphroaig.”

6.Laphroaig

Laphroaig was used to 25,000 visitors per annum before the pandemic but are currently restricting numbers, with a half-hour tasting the experience on offer along with the shop. Prince Charles’ favourite whisky affords the distillery the Royal Warrant, and production is now 3.4 million litres of alcohol per annum. “It was a third of that when

I started 27 years ago,” said John Campbell, Laphroaig’s distillery manager who moved to a Lowlands producer in late November for family reasons. “Unbalanced distillation has been the key for Laphroaig, and I don’t know if any other distillery has it. That’s when Laphroaig lost its really fruity heavy flavour and became more earthy and medicinal. With the small stills, you get more depth of flavour and lovely lighter flavours along with the peat.” All Laphroaig labels

start their maturation in Bourbon casks, with some being double matured in other casks such as Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso and Madeira vessels.

7.Ardbeg

Ardbeg, which is renowned as the peatiest and smokiest of the big three brands on Islay’s south coast, also employs a combination of Bourbon and Oloroso maturation casks for its celebrated Uigeadail Single Malt (world whisky of the year in 2004). Founded in 1815, Ardbeg has hit record production levels this year, mashing 110 tons of

malt per week according to new distillery manager, Colin Gordon. “We’ll produce 1.8 million litres of spirit this year, and our aim is for 2.5m by 2023,” he said. “We have the new stillhouse, and the visitor centre plays a large role. One of the things we’ve looked at since Covid is our restaurant. It’s one of the great things people loved here – it was like organised chaos, so we’re looking at how we can develop that and restructure nicely so we have an outdoor eatery.”

8.Lagavulin

No trip to Islay could be complete without a visit to Lagavulin, which is nestled between Ardbeg and Laphroaig.  Founded a year after Ardbeg, its reputation as an Islay icon has been enhanced by its celebrated 16-year-old single malt, with its intense aromas of peat smoke, sea salt and pepper with dried fruit on the palate. The hour-long

warehouse tastings with the theatrical Iain McArthur, who has worked for Lagavulin since 1970, are a must. The 66-year-old Islay native, whose grandfather worked at Lagavulin and father at Laphroaig, said:

“The warehouse is like my family – you come in here, know all the casks and how they should be. If you see a cask that’s leaking, you’re very annoyed because you’re in every day trying to look after the spirit.” More than anyone, Iain embodies the spirit – both liquid and metaphorical – of Islay, the Queen of the Hebrides.

The 2022 Islay Whisky Festival will take place from 27th May to 4th June.

Tasting the wines of Champagne Drappier

How Pinot Noir ‘runs in the veins’ of Champagne Drappier

Although the French market took up the slack, exports of Champagne Drappier’s 13 cuvées fell by 20% during the pandemic, writes Geoffrey Dean. Tasting five of the new wines with Celine Drappier, Dean discovers why a famous French leader fancied a tipple of it, how organics are playing an increasingly important role, sulphites less so, and why it is Pinot Noir that “runs through their veins” – taking the largest percentage of all bar one of its cuvées.

By Geoffrey Dean

“Sulfites are no problem in small quantities, but they dry out your palate and act as an anaesthetic to your taste buds,” says Michel Drappier.

Like so many Houses, Champagne Drappier saw a fall in exports on the back of the pandemic from 70% to around 50% of their typical annual production of 1.7 million bottles, although the French market did take up the slack. The United Kingdom’s imports of the company’s impressive range fell to just over 5% of its total exports, but Charline Drappier, the brand’s sales manager, is hopeful British demand will increase again. An impressive recent tasting of five of their 13 cuvées underlined what a quality producer Drappier is.

General Charles de Gaulle drank so much of Drappier wine that the house named a cuvée after him. A celebrated photograph of the former French leader shows him consuming Drappier in a motorcade on an airfield. This sense of history is very much part of the house’s DNA, with Charline, 32, and her two brothers Hugo, 30, and Antoine, 25, being eighth generation members of a family that started producing Champagne in 1808.

Antoine is involved with the viticultural side of the business, while Hugo shares the winemaking role with their father Michel, who retains overall control. His elderly father, André, 95, joins the whole family for lunch every day, having his first glass of Drappier’s Carte d’Or label at 11am. Those aiming for a similarly long innings might like to know he is thought to have drunk more than 8,000 bottles of Champagne over his lifetime.

Located at the southern end of Champagne in the village of Urville in the Côte des Bar, Drappier’s vineyards have a real sense of place, with 70% being planted to Pinot Noir. Closer to Chablis than Reims or Epernay, the soils are exclusively Kimmeridgian limestone. “The soil is poor, but it gives great wines,” Michael Drappier declared.

Half of the family’s own 60 hectares under vine are certified organic, with Antoine using his two horses, Aster and Idaho, to plough the organically-farmed plots. The Drappiers cultivate another 55 hectares of vines they do not own, of which 3.5 hectares are given over to less popular permitted Champagne varieties: Petit Meslier, Arbanne, Pinot Gris (aka Fromanteau) and Pinot Blanc (aka Blanc Vrai).

Pinot Noir, though, is Drappier’s calling card. Apart from their Blanc de Blancs (95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Blanc), it is the majority varietal in all the cuvées. In its Brut Nature, Pinot is 100%; in its Carte d’Or it is 80%; in its Grande Sendrée 55%. Pinot Meunier also features in one label, making up 5% of the Carte d’Or.

Two other key features of Drappier’s wines are their conservative dosage levels (4-7g/l and zero in the ‘Brut Nature’ labels) and their lower than average sulphur dioxide additions. “Sulfites are no problem in small quantities, but they dry out your palate and act as an anaesthetic to your taste buds,” Michel declared. Some Drappier labels exported to New Zealand and the Pacific Islands have no added sulfites at all.

So onto tasting the Drappier wines

Champagne Drappier Carte d’Or NV

80% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier. Reserve wines make up 40% (the base being from 2018). White peach, citrus and yellow plum notes with a touch of quince jelly. Some spicy complexity. Dosage 6.5 g/l.

Champagne Drappier Clarevallis Extra Brut NV

75% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Blanc. Low dosage (4g/l) and very low sulphur dioxide – at 20mg/l around a quarter of typical levels in Champagne. Fruit all farmed organically (90% from 2017 with the rest reserve wines). Unusual label designed by Charline with wine made by brother Hugo, representing a new generation approach. A different expression of Pinot Noir – bright and vibrant with lots of energy. Very aromatic, with honeyed nose. Three years on the lees, with toast and pear notes. Complex and rich with fabulous minerality and length.

Champagne Drappier Grande Sendrée 2010

55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay. Organically farmed fruit from a single parcel, whose  name derives from a wood burnt down in 1836 fires that ravaged Urville. Eight years on the lees, with 30% wine seeing oak-ageing in 15-year old 5,000l foudres. The third of a hat-trick of very fine vintages, this is an opulent wine but with a lean structure and vibrant acidity. Quince jelly, raspberry jam and brioche notes with both delicate minerality and rich salinity. Seriously complex and long. Dosage 5.5g/l.

Champagne Drappier Rosé de Saignée Brut NV

100% Pinot Noir. Skin contact with two days of maceration. Only first press; 5% of the wines are aged in foudre. 30 months on the lees and very little SO2 added. Bright pink, this has lovely freshness with very attractive raspberry and red cherry notes. Lightly spiced with real purity of fruit. Dosage 6g/l.

Champagne Drappier Réserve de l’Oenotheque 2002

80% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier. 17 years on the lees; disgorged 2019. Lots of brioche; rich, complex and very long. Brought from Charline’s private cellar. A delightful end to a memorable tasting.

Champagne Drappier wines are imported and sold in the UK by Berkmann Wine Cellars.

The wines of Emilio Moro

How innovation lies at the heart of Bodegas Emilio Moro

José Moro, at Ribera del Duero’s Bodegas Emilio Moro, is the first winemaker to have been picked as one of the top 100 global business leaders in the field of innovation and creativity by Forbes Spain. His latest project, Sensing4Farming, developed hand-in-hand with Vodafone, is aimed at creating a high quality sustainable vineyard that can be managed completely digitally. And yet his wines also have tradition at their core – fine Tempranillo that speaks of the land from which it comes. Geoffrey Dean reports.

By Geoffrey DeanOctober 4, 2021

“2015 was the best vintage in Ribera in the last decade along with 2011, but the 2015 needs time to give its best expression,” José Moro says.

When confronted by the old argument of whether wine is art or science, José Moro is in no doubt. “Wine is an art which, if you know how to listen, speaks to us,” he declared from his home village of Pesquera del Duero, wearing his president of Bodegas Emilio Moro hat. And his wines certainly did that, notwithstanding the paltry test tube samples that were available on a Zoom call tasting. Doubtless they would have sung had they come from a bottle and had some time to open up.

More later on the five red labels (all 100% Tempranillo) from his Ribera del Duero vineyards, as well as a white from his Bierzo parcels, but first a little background on the bodega. Moro’s family has been growing grapes for wine production for over a century, with José being third generation. They now have 400 hectares of their own vineyards, and control another 200 hectares of grower-owned vines.

“I still get goosebumps at harvest time when the sights and sounds take me back to my childhood,” he professed. “I remember harvesting with my father, and getting into the fermentation casks whose openings were only big enough for a child to enter. I would go in and clean them with a candle.”

José Moro

Several decades on from his youth, Moro has gone on to become the first winemaker to be picked by the prestigious finance and business review, Forbes Spain, as one of the top 100 global business leaders in the field of innovation and creativity. Emilio Moro’s latest project, Sensing4Farming, developed hand-in-hand with Vodafone, is aimed at creating a high quality sustainable vineyard that can be managed digitally.

A network of sensors have been installed in Moro’s vineyards which, together with the high resolution satellite images obtained in real time, allow them to measure key environmental factors such as humidity, temperature, soil conductivity and water absorption, as well as the health and vigour of the vines. It’s an envelope-pushing project that pioneers the application of technologies linked to the Internet of Things (IoT), field sensors, satellite technology, Big Data and Artificial Intelligence.

Moro loves to stress his three-pronged philosophy of tradition, innovation and social responsibility. “We prefer that each year has its own personality,” he said. “The terroir is a combination of grape varieties, soil and climactic conditions. The work practices we carry out are very important – whether pruning, bunch-thinning or deciding the right time to harvest. We also have great innovation – we’ve been innovating in our winery since Emilio Moro planted the Tinto Fino [Tempranillo] clone. Since then, we have not stopped innovating. But the most important asset of our winery is that our vineyards are all grafted with the best clone of Tempranillo.”

So how were the Emilio Moro wines tasting?

2018 Bodegas Emilio Moro, La Revelía, DO Bierzo

A top-class Godello from the highest and least fertile hillside vineyards in Bierzo, which Emilio Moro acquired in 2016. “I fell in love with the region and Godello which, for me, is THE varietal for the best white wine in Spain,” Moro said. Light golden in colour, this was fermented in stainless steel before being aged on the lees for eight months in 500-litre French oak barrels (33% new, 33% second fill and 33% third fill). Herbal aromas give way to limey, toasty notes on the palate. An intense, energetic and complex wine with elegance and finesse. Lively acidity from a low pH of 3.39. 13.8% abv, RRP £35

2018 Bodegas Emilio Moro, Emilio Moro, DO Ribera del Duero

A touch of vanilla on the nose from 50% American oak (the other 50% being French). Appealing herbal aromas and lovely black cherry, plum and mulberry notes on the palate with refined tannins. “This is a good example of how there are nuances from different altitudes and orientation,” Moro said. The vines were planted at 700-750 metres between 15 and 25 years ago. 14.5% abv, RRP £23.99

2016 Bodegas Emilio Moro, Malleolus, DO Ribera del Duero

More intense aroma than the previous wine, with balsamic notes. More black fruit as well, with some spiciness and minerality. ‘Malleolus’ is the Latin for ‘hawthorn.’ Vines aged 25-75 years have provided a very good balance between acidity, alcohol and structure. Velvety tannins and excellent length. 14.3% abv, RRP £36.99

2016 Bodegas Emilio Moro, Malleolus de Valderramiro, DO Ribera del Duero 

From a single vineyard planted in 1924 on 100% clay soils, this is a full-bodied wine of great personality and dense concentration. Very intense on the nose, with spice and black fruit, this has powerful but creamy tannins. The harmony between the fruit and the wood is the most important aspect of this wine. Interestingly, malolactic fermentation was carried out in American oak with elevage in French. 14.3% abv, RRP £110

2016 Bodegas Emilio Moro, Malleolus de Sanchomartín, DO Ribera del Duero

From a single plot of clay, marl and limestone soils, this is another blockbuster. An alluring nose of smoked bacon, herbs and roasted coffee with a hint of truffle. A wine with powerful structure but silky crunchy tannins, lifted elegance and great harmony. High quality blackcurrant and mulberry fruit with a very long, concentrated finish. A pH of 3.67 (like the preceding red wines) ensures bright acidity.14% abv, RRP £145

2015 Bodegas Emilio Moro, Clon de la Familia, DO Ribera del Duero

One of Spain’s most expensive wines that comes from vines planted during the Spanish Civil War in 1938. Three soil types typical of Ribera from three different parcels – Cornalvo, Camino Viejo and La Mira. “Our most important wine” in Moro’s words. “2015 was the best vintage in Ribera in the last decade along with 2011, but the 2015 needs time to give its best expression,” he added. Power, richness and concentration from 27 days of maceration, with additional structure from ageing in 100% new French oak. Elegant red and black fruit. Notable freshness with very silky tannins, many layers of complexity and a lingering, persistent finish. Just 1,000 bottles produced. 15% abv, RRP £380

The 2017 Barolos of Mauro Veglio

2016 was generally regarded as one of the greatest modern vintages of Barolo and was always going to be a hard act to follow. But the 2017 Barolos from Mauro Veglio are still delivering an immense amount of pleasure, argues Geoffrey Dean, who hears first hand from the estate’s Alessandro Veglio how the winery is using them to spearhead a greater presence in the UK on-trade.

By Geoffrey Dean

After what was one of the greatest of Barolo vintages in 2016, lovers of Italy’s most noble grape, Nebbiolo, were always going to be curious as to how 2017 would turn out in Piemonte. The answer is not as “perfect” as 2016, as Alessandro Veglio described it, but still a very good year that will give a lot of pleasure. And the Mauro Veglio stable of Barolos showed very well in a recent tasting, which ought to interest those in the UK on-trade who are looking for high quality Nebbiolo at a fair price.

Alessando Veglio

Alessandro Veglio, nephew of Mauro after whom the brand was named on set-up in 1992 when he took over management of the winery from his father Angelo, is keen to gain traction in the UK market, where Berry Bros constitute the company’s sole representation. “The UK is very important for us,” Alessandro told The Buyer. “It’s great Berry Bros are taking 10% of our single vineyard production and selling our wines in the off-trade where sales have been very good. But I want to get us into the UK on-trade as we are keen to diversify. The United States and Scandinavia are currently our two biggest markets.”

Mauro Veglio produces 120,000 bottles per annum, with 11 labels, from 19 hectares of vineyards distributed through La Morra, Monforte d’Alba and Barolo. These include five important crus, or Menzioni Geografiche, of Barolo: Arborina, Gattera, Castelletto, Paiagallo and Roche dell’Annunziata. All but the latter were tasted.

Mauro Veglio’s viticultural and winemaking philosophy will be music to the ears of those whose watchwords are sustainability and drinkability. No pesticides or herbicides; nothing but manure for fertilisation; avoidance of over-extraction; and no more than 30% new oak for maturation.

“We vinify our Barolo crus by respecting the seasonality of each harvest, without forcing the grapes’ limits or artificially adjusting during the course of our work,” Alessandro declared. “If our grapes do not display the desired characteristics, we prefer not to vinify the vintage at all rather than betray the quality towards which we strive. I’m convinced the main part of winemaking is in the vineyard.”

The aim is a Mauro Veglio style of wines. What is it exactly though? “It is not traditionalist and modernist,” Alessandro continued. “We have different length of times for maceration – mostly between 20 and 25 days. We are still using barriques but we are reducing a lot the amount of new oak to 30% maximum. Yes we want concentration but balance is the most important word for me.”

How the wines were tasting

2017 Mauro Veglio Barolo, Barolo DOCG

Veglio revealed the idea behind this Classico wine was that it should be ready to drink on release. Less extraction than the rest of the range with 10-15 days on the skins, and less new oak (15-20%). Super-fresh acidity and very approachable tannins. This was Alessandro’s first vintage with his uncle Mauro, having been making wine under his own Alessandro Veglio label since 2005. 14.5% abv

2017 Mauro Veglio Arborina, Barolo DOCG

From 2.5 hectares of clay, sand and limestone (south-east facing at 250-300m) that Alessandro thinks produce the brand’s most elegant wine. “The composition of the soil is quite classic for La Morra, where many think elegance is the main feature,” Alessandro said. “It is also much more fresh than other denominations.” The freshness of the wine is as marked as the finesse, which is almost ethereal. Violet aromas are intense with black truffle notes. Tannins have more sweetness and roundness than those of 2016, which were finer. 14.5% abv

2017 Mauro Veglio Gattera, Barolo DOCG

Less than a kilometre from Arborina, but so different according to Alessandro. The oldest Mauro Veglio vineyard, having been planted in 1950 (the others being mid-1980s) on clay, sand, limestone and compact marl. The warmest site, it produces a very structured wine with a medium to full body and firm, fine tannins. Spicy, warm and intense with tar and walnut notes with a tight finish. 14.5% abv

2017 Mauro Veglio Castelletto, Barolo DOCG

“The most structure and tannins we have in our range,” Alessandro revealed. “There are many different expressions in this single vineyard of four hectares, which is divided into four different plots.” The highest, at close to 400m, yields the highest acidity, with slightly less from those plots at 250-300m. The soil composition, with lots of sand, leads to bigger structure. The wine possessed notable freshness with balsamic, mint and eucalyptus notes. 14.5% abv

2017 Mauro Veglio Paiagallo, Barolo DOCG

A new label, whose first vintage was 2016. Soil composition is one third clay, one third tuff and one third sand.  Two days of cold maceration at 8-10C. “Here in my opinion is the great expression of the softness and the largeness,” Alessandro said. A beautifully elegant wine with freshness, overt but well-integrated tannins and a very long finish. 14.5% abv

Washington State tasting, London

London’s annual Washington State Wine tasting was one of the last ‘live’ events to be held in March 2020, before the pandemic struck. 16 months later and Geoffrey Dean attended this year’s event which showcased 91 wines from 13 producers. The well known names of Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Reynvaan, Gramercy Cellars, Betz and L’Ecole No 41 were all there but what made this event even more fascinating was the sheer amount of wines coming from lesser known estates and ones which are seeking representation in the UK.

By Geoffrey Dean

“Throw in some of America’s most capable winemakers, and you have all the ingredients for a flourishing wine industry with the brightest of futures,” writes Dean.

Trade and press representatives flocked to the recent annual Washington State Wine Commission tasting in London, delighted to enjoy an alternative to the endless sequence of Zoom sessions. Nor did the wines of the 13 producers who were exhibiting disappoint, although sampling even a third of the 91 labels available was a challenge in the allotted hour-long slots. Time was still sufficient for tasters to be struck by Washington’s intense New World fruit, beautifully counter-balanced by the classical sensibility and structure of the Old World.

How the climate ensures diversity of styles

As the USA’s second biggest wine-producing state, Washington’s importance is as clear as its diversity. As Juan Munoz Oca, head winemaker for the region’s oldest and biggest producer, Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, put it, “the north-west corner of the US is as diverse as perhaps the entire continent of North America. You get rain almost 24/7 in the Olympic Peninsula west of Seattle but very, very little the other side of the Cascade Mountains. The climate allows us the creativity to make wines in so many different styles.”

Washington State Wine recently launched the Alliance of Women in Washington Wine to highlight 90 women who are helping make Washington wine what it is today

While July and August in Washington are hotter than in Bordeaux, September and October are cooler, allowing grapes to be picked cold, while helping phenolic and physiological ripeness to coincide. Being on the 46th parallel, vines enjoy extra daylight, with the Columbia Valley, which encompasses all 16 of the state’s AVAs bar Columbia Gorge, enjoying 55 hours more sunlight than Napa Valley in the growing season.

For the record, Washington’s vineyards receive a paltry 6-8 inches of rain per annum, while Seattle gets 40 inches. From 10 wineries in 1970, the state now has almost 1,000, with four new ones established each month on average. Growers, who number over 350, play an important part. With 23,000 hectares under vine, Washington is not far behind Marlborough (29,000) and has grown to nearly a quarter of South Africa’s vineyard area (100,000 hectares). In 2020, Washington harvested 178,500 tons of fruit for wine production, with around 60% being black grapes and 40% white.

A very wide diurnal range is key to acid retention in the state’s vineyards, with temperatures often hitting 35°C in mid-July but falling to 14-15°C at night. Without irrigation from the Columbia River, the fourth biggest by volume in North America, winemaking would not be possible in Washington. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah in that order remain the most planted black grapes, with Merlot having initially been behind the state’s reputation for excellence. The other two varietals underlined at the tasting, however, that they are on a par in terms of quality. Of the white grapes, Chardonnay is the state’s most planted, closely pursued by Riesling.

Washington State Wine tastings are always an event

The most established estates were all present and correct

Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, established as far back as 1967, had as many as 31 labels on their stand, including seven Chardonnays and three Rieslings, including their benchmark Eroica 2019, the off-dry joint enterprise with Mosel producer, Ernie Loosen. Airfield Estates‘ three whites from the Yakima Valley – Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc – all impressed, as did the Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2018. Its grapes are sourced from an array of vineyards at the southern end of the valley, right by the Columbia River. Some come from growers, notably the Andrews brothers, Rob & Mike, fifth generation farmers whose property produces excellent fruit. Freshness from a low pH shone through, while flavours were fully developed and ripe with richness and opulence.

The standout Chateau Ste. Michelle red was their Col Solare 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, from the Red Mountain AVA (although the terrain there is neither mountainous nor red). Washington’s predominantly sandy loam soils – unsuitable for phylloxera – allow most vines to be planted ungrafted, which helps recovery from winter freeze and encourages a more intense expression of a varietal’s characteristics. Black cherry notes and cinnamon aromas are prominent in the Col Solare, with rose petals from a dash of Cabernet Franc (6%). High quality, silky tannins adorn this refined and elegant wine.

Matt Reynvaan, winemaker for the highly regarded Reynvaan Family Vineyards, planted in 2004 in the Walla Walla Valley AVA, says “we have some of the best Syrahs in the world.” Four outstanding labels gave weight to his claim, with his ‘In the Rocks’ 2018 containing 6% Viognier and his ‘The Contender’ 2018 5% Marsanne.

“In the Rocks is a very unique area,” he said. “It’s very warm in the day, and the captured heat radiates back off the rocks into the canopies when the nights are cool, continuing the ripening without losing acidity. The Contender, which was called that as we felt it could contend with any other Syrah, is the same fruit with oily texture and mouthfeel from the Marsanne. It’s more hedonistic with cocoa and crushed blackberry richness, and will be long-lived as it has an amazing backbone.” The most distinctive Reynvaan Syrah, the Foothills Reserve 2018, from a very high vineyard at 1000 m, exhibited coffee bean and bacon notes as well as structure from quality new oak.

A number of other Syrahs impressed (note that none were labelled as Shiraz). A pair from Gramercy Cellars stood out, with their ‘Lower East’ Syrah 2017, blended with 15% of Carignan, managing to combine funky meatiness with fresh elegance, with its red fruit focus including a hint of iodine. Gramercy’s Lagniappe Red Willow Syrah 2017 was rich with tremendous concentration and length.

Meanwhile, in the splendidly-named Rocks of Milton Freewater AVA (a sub-appellation of Walla Walla Valley AVA, which straddles both Washington State and Oregon), the Betz Family Winery have produced a delightful Domaine de Pierres Syrah 2018. Named after the baseball-sized basalt stones permeating the vineyards there, this particular terroir is home to a savoury red, black and blue-fruited wine with white and black pepper notes, whose floral, lavender and tarragon aromas jump out of the glass.

Regular reports, a content-rich website and sommelier-focused videos are some of the techniques being used to promote Washington State wine

Other wines that impressed

Other Syrahs that deserve a mention in dispatches are Pomum Cellars’ 2017 label, which had marked freshness as well as peppery spiciness; Sleight of Hand Cellars’ ‘Levitation’ 2018; and the Powers Winery’s 2017 label (all from the Columbia Valley). The latter contained 9% Merlot and 2.5% Viognier. Côte Bonneville’s superb Syrah 2014 from vines planted in 1992 in the steep, rocky DuBrul Vineyard in Yakima Valley was medium-bodied with real finesse. Aged in used French oak, this had vibrant freshness (pH 3.5) and was beautifully balanced (13.9% abv).

The same could be said for the same winery’s flagship label, the Côte Bonneville 2012, a 13.6% abv single vineyard blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%) whose 100% new oak was beautifully integrated. Intensity of flavour, rich texture, layered complexity, silky tannins and a lingering finish were evident. Showing equally well was the L’Ecole No 41 winery’s Perigee Estate Seven Hills Vineyard 2017 (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot and 9% Malbec). Winemaker Marty Clubb has crafted an elegant Bordeaux blend with seductive floral aromas, earthy structure and gorgeous fruit. From one of the oldest and most renowned blocks in the Walla Walla Valley, this is an outstandingly expressive wine.

A Merlot-dominated blend that impressed was Long Shadows Vintners’ ‘Pedestal’ Merlot 2018. Michel Rolland – “in Washington, I am dedicated to Merlot” – made this wine, which is a ripe opulent example of the varietal, spending 22 months in 85% new oak and given backbone by some Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). The fruit comes predominantly from the warm Wahluke Slope, providing cassis, chocolate and leafy herb notes. Another big Long Shadows wine, the ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, this time made by renowned Napa vintner, Randy Dunn, comes from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, a prime location for the varietal. Meanwhile, artisan producer DeLille Cellars’ outstanding Four Flags 2018, is made from the four best barrels of Cabernet from different vineyards in the Red Mountain AVA.

One prominent winery looking for an importer is Woodward Canyon, which was established in 1981 and is the second oldest in the Walla Walla Valley. A consistent producer of premium ageworthy Bordeaux-style reds and Chardonnays, their latter label from 2019 had lovely freshness and bright citrus fruit. Their Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, which included 10% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 3% Syrah, saw 28% new oak and was very appealing with its black fruit, herbal and lead pencil notes. Their Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, which also contained 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec, was a superb advert for the varietal in Washington. Very good use of oak, all of it new, added weight and structure to its quality blackberry and cassis fruit from the Sagemoor and Champoux vineyards (planted in 1968 and 1972 respectively).

And so in conclusion…

Washington’s wines, then, continue to go from strength to strength, with production expanding year on year. All the concomitants are there – a wide diurnal shift, low disease pressure, lean, free-draining loess soils on a basalt foundation, abundant sun, and a dry climate yet guaranteed availability of water for irrigation purposes. Throw in some of America’s most capable winemakers, and you have all the ingredients for a flourishing wine industry with the brightest of futures.

List of exhibitors with importers:

Airfield Estates (seeking representation)

Betz Family Winery (The Wine Treasury)

Côte Bonneville (seeking representation)

DeLille Cellars (seeking representation)

Gramercy Cellars (Flint Wines)

L’Ecole No 41 (The Wine Treasury)

Long Shadows Vintners (seeking representation)

Pomum Cellars (seeking representation)

Powers Winery (Amathus Drinks)

Reynvaan Family Vineyards (Ester Wines)

Sleight of Hand Cellars (Ester Wines)

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates (Ste. Michelle Wine Estates)

Woodward Canyon (seeking representation)

A Riesling tasting with 4 top winemakers

Riesling is one of the top grapes favoured by those in the wine trade – and for good reason. It is totally unique in its ability to withstand extreme cold, produce TDN and make such a vast array of wines with little or no need to be blended with any other varietal. David Rosenthal from Chateau Ste Michelle in Washington State, Erni Loosen from Dr Loosen Estate in the Mosel, Sam Barry from Jim Barry Wines in the Clare Valley, and Jean-Frédéric Hugel from Famille Hugel in Alsace, each discuss three of their new wines and what makes them special while Geoffrey Dean tastes.

By Geoffrey Dean September 1, 2021

To hear four such eminent Riesling winemakers pontificate together about the varietal and some of their wines – and to taste them – was a rare treat for those on the same Zoom call. David Rosenthal from Chateau Ste Michelle in Washington State, Ernst Loosen from Dr Loosen Estate in the Mosel, Sam Barry from Jim Barry Wines in the Clare Valley, and Jean-Frédéric Hugel from Famille Hugel in Alsace need little if any introduction.

Jamie Goode prefaced the tasting and discussion with a brief reminder of what makes Riesling such a special grape. How it has a high level of cold tolerance – down to minus 25°C – which explains its success in Niagara and New York State; how it is so adaptable, growing well in a range of climates; that it is rarely ever blended, and has no affinity with new oak; how it can get flavour ripeness while retaining very high levels of acidity (with a pH as low as 2.8); that it can be picked early or late, and can handle botrytis; how its styles range from luscious/sweet to bone dry; and how Riesling contains more TDN (1,1,6,-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronapthalene) than any other white varietal (TDN being the compound that gives rise to petrol and kerosene notes). Both New World winemakers, Rosenthal and Barry, confess they are not fans of TDN, while Hugel does not try to avoid it as it adds complexity but feels it should not be a youthful characteristic.

The 12 Rieslings tasted

Chateau Ste Michelle Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley 2020

Beautifully pure and lovely focus to this dynamic entry level Riesling. Interestingly, some wild yeasts are used for fermentation, although most are inoculated. Some lees ageing of anywhere between 4-6 months, which helps round off the high acidity from big diurnal shifts. With global warming, the viticultural team are trying to find cooler places locally so that fruit can be picked at the end of October. 100,000 cases to be produced next year. 12.5% abv

Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling 2020

What the winery is best known for, with up to 850,000 cases made per annum. Same minimalist winemaking as for the Dry Riesling but the fermentation is stopped a little earlier, with an off-dry style and 20 g/l of residual sugar the result. That is very well balanced by a pH of 3.05 and total acidity of 6.8g/l, which gives a crisp finish. More peachy with apricot than the citrus character of the Dry Riesling. Very versatile wine, as goes well with spicy Asian food and seafood. 12% abv

Chateau Ste Michelle & Dr Loosen Eroica Riesling Columbia Valley 2019

The partnership started in 1999 with Ernie Loosen, with the idea being in his words “to renovate Riesling’s reputation after the German flooding of the market with Liebfraumilch and Blue Nun.” Rosenthal added that extended hang time was the goal as Riesling needs that to get aroma ripeness without sugar over-ripeness. “I think we even harvest later than the Mosel in late October with an even higher TA of 7-7.5 g/l which counter-balances the residual sugar of 11.5g/l,” he declared. “The fruit comes from two cooler vineyard sites – in View Crest, Yakima Valley and in the Evergreen Vineyard Ancient Lakes area, a relatively new AVA. We try to capture the elegance of Mosel wines and the purity and power of Washington.” 12% abv

Dr Ernst Loosen

Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Dry Riesling Alte Reben 2019

Loosen explained why this vineyard is something of an exception for the middle Mosel. “Normally we get slate soil there but here it is weathered volcanic conglomerate soil,” he said. “This is why this is called Spice Garden (Würzgarten) as you get totally different aromas compared to slate. There you get stone fruit with peach but in Würzgarten you get herbal spice aromas. Of the 7 hectares we own, 3.5 are ungrafted, being on own roots and over 100 years old. The little berries we tend to get make nice very complex fruit with enormous complexity. There is also long hang time as the berries’ thick skins mean they don’t get attacked by botrytis.” Indigenous yeasts add to complexity, with structure coming from 12 months on the full lees. No malolactic fermentation is carried out, nor any racking before the wine is bottled. 12.5% abv

Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 2019

Fermentation is stopped leaving 35-40g/l of residual sugar, with the final TA coming in at 9-10g/l. “But you don’t taste the RS due to the mouthwatering acidity and lovely fruit,” Loosen said. “My grandfather used to say this is ‘a perfect wine to drink yourself sober,’ because of the low alcohol. He used to offer guests this at 4pm instead of tea. So it’s a great aperitif wine, but can age due to the low pH. I have a 1938 from JJ Prum in my cellar.” A nose of pear and minty herbs precedes spice, earthy notes on the palate with hints of salinity and minerality. 8% abv

Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2019

Picked later and riper at 10.5-11.5% potential alcohol, with 5-10 days more hang-time than the Kabinett, this has 66g/l of residual sugar with 1g/l less TA. As such it is rounder and more luscious, with ripe melon and pineapple notes and zesty tension on the palate. Spicy with racy acidity and terrific length, this is a beautiful wine, albeit one to lay down. “Best at a minimum of 10 years age,” Loosen advised. 8% abv

Jim Barry (far right) with Ernst Loosen flanked by Sam and Tom Barry (l-r)in front of the Wolta Wolta barrels

The Florita, Jim Barry 2017

Sam Barry praised the Florita Vineyard for being a famous site, although only 5% of it (the best block) ends up in this label. Originally planted to Palomino, the vines were replanted to Riesling in 1962, all on own roots. A clay-based sunscreen is sprayed to prevent harsh afternoon sun, also helping to keep the canopy cooler and increase hang-time by two days. “Sunburn is the biggest problem for us, so we fight against TDN and have east-west rows,” Barry revealed. “We get a huge diurnal range – from 40°C down to 12°C at night when all the heat is blown out of the valley by sea breezes. We press very gently, getting 400-450 litres per ton, as we don’t want to lose acid.” The 2017 is a wine of tremendous drive and purity with zesty acidity and notable intensity of lime fruit. It is taut and beautifully focussed, with a very long finish. 12.5% abv

The Florita, Jim Barry Cellar Release 2013

The Florita 2013 is starting to show what makes this wine unique. The magic of aged Australian Riesling is that it takes on a toasty marmalade character, which this wine has. With a pH of 2.9-2.95, there is ample acidity in this wine to allow it to age for much longer as well as power of fruit. No TDN notes – Barry says these are only seen in hot dry years. 12.3% abv

Wolta Wolta LoosenBarry Dry Riesling 2017

The fruit for this collaboration between Barry’s father, Peter, and Ernst Loosen came from an area of the Clare Valley known as ‘Wolta Wolta’ (the Aboriginal for good water).  “Dad and Ernie got on like a house on fire when they first met in London in 1995, and became good friends,” Barry said. “The most exciting thing about this project, which the two of them dreamt up at the 2015 Riesling Convention, is that it shows you can produce Clare Riesling in another way. Having it sat on full lees for two years has built complexity, texture, weight and mouthfeel that that no one has really seen in dry Australian riesling.” Fermented with indigenous yeasts, the wine was matured in large neutral oak (a  3,000-litre ‘Fuder’ cask). It has 7g/l of residual sugar (compared to 2g/l in Florita). “For me, it’s a very interesting experiment and style of wine,” Loosen commented. “This longer ageing gives a beautiful charming character.” 12.5% abv

Jean-Frédéric Hugel from Famille Hugel, tasting new dry Riesling from tank

Hugel Classic Riesling 2019

“What I want to do is show you varietal and terroir expression with these three wines,” Jean-Frédéric Hugel declared. “So we must taste the entry level and most expensive wines. In Alsace, we have very very little slate, unlike the Mosel, and lots of everything else. The mosaic of our soil has allowed us to grow Riesling in very different styles and profiles. The idea with the Classic is to show a benchmark. It’s from a blend of various soils in Alsace – predominantly granite & limestone, a tiny bit of slate and a fair bit of marly soils and sandstone. The clay content in marl gives fleshiness while the sandstone gives leaner wines with more aromatic profiles.” Hugel hailed 2019 as one of the top two or three vintages of the decade. 13% abv

Famille Hugel, Edition Limitée Riesling Grossi Laüe  2011

Based an old label – a re-edition of a 1950s one – this is two steps up in quality from the Classic. “The fruit comes from the three or four best blocks of the 12 we have in the famous Schoenenbourg vineyard, which made the reputation,wealth and fame of the town of Riquewihr. It’s what drew my family to settle in 1639, the objective being to get some Schoenenbourg. We are now the second largest owners on it, which gives us incredible choice in terms of blending.”  The 2011 vintage was a warm one, helping to explain the 14% abv. Full-bodied and rich, it is dry with bright acidity as well as both earthy undertones and a streak of salinity. Almond aromas precede ripe white peach and fresh lemon notes. A stunning wine. 14% abv

Famille Hugel Schoelhammer Riesling 2010

“Each of our 220 vineyard blocks has a name,” Hugel continued, “and one – the Schoelhammer – was nearly always more accomplished in terms of depth, concentration and mouthfeel, as well as having personality and ageing potential, so we thought let’s bottle it. This is built for the long-term, with 2010 the perfect meeting between the old times, when we picked in October, and warmer climates that allow for consistent quality.” Spicy with candied fruit and mineral crushed stone notes, this has power and structure yet vibrancy. Deep and earthy, this is so complex with a long life still ahead of it. “In the family, we like a minimum 20 years ageing for our single vineyard wines,” Hugel confessed. 13% abv

How South Africa's MCC wines shone

How MCC, Graham Beck, Kleine Zalze and Journey’s End shone at SA tasting 

While many a glass of MCC will have raised over the weekend in South Africa, as the Springboks narrowly beat the Lions, it is actually in the UK where we have been falling in love with South Africa’s sparkling wine. Fifty years old this year, MCC is the fastest-growing category in South Africa and, for a top producer like Graham Beck, the UK accounts for over half of its export sales. On a recent trip to South Africa Geoffrey Dean spoke to Pieter “Bubbles” Ferreira, Beck’s cellar master, along with Rollo Gabb, MD at Journey’s End that is set to release its first ever MCC wine this year, and caught up with their new wines (along with Kleine Zalze) at a recent SA mini-tasting.

By Geoffrey DeanAugust 9, 2021

“This year sees the 50th anniversary of the first MCC wines in South Africa. To coincide with it, Journey’s End, which is also celebrating the 25th anniversary of its founding as a winery, is releasing its first MCC wine in the autumn.”

Pieter “Bubbles” Ferreira, who has been Graham Beck’s cellar master for over 30 years, is in little doubt that the pandemic is the main reason for the sparkling wines producer’s 28% growth in exports to the UK last year. Widely regarded as the king of South African bubblies – hence his affectionate nickname – Ferreira revealed that the UK is Graham Beck’s number one export market, taking nearly half of all the company’s exports.

“Sales have been brilliant in Majestic and Waitrose, and doing well in the indies,” Ferreira told The Buyer, praising Bibendum which has been Graham Beck’s importers for nearly 25 years. “We’re sending 34,000 cases a year to the UK, and can come up with plenty more if necessary as we have 4.8 million bottles in storage here at the winery.” 

Every one of those bottles has been made by the traditional method – or méthode cap classique (MCC) as it is known in South Africa. Graham Beck’s decision to focus production entirely on MCC sparkling wines was an inspired one, for MCC is the fastest-growing category in South Africa, expanding at 18% per annum and doubling every 4-5 years.

As many as five of Graham Beck’s labels were on show at a recent London tasting of the three South African winery clients of R&R Teamwork Drink & Food PR. The quintet range in price from £15.99 to £25.50, with both North & South Wines and Simply Wines Direct stocking all five. The Brut NV (half Chardonnay and half Pinot Noir), which spent 20 months on the lees, is value with its persistent mousse, fresh acidity (pH 3.2) and creamy mid-palate.

Pieter “Bubbles” Ferreira at the Graham Beck winery in Robertson

As many as five of Graham Beck’s labels were on show at a recent London tasting of the three South African winery clients of R&R Teamwork Drink & Food PR. The quintet range in price from £15.99 to £25.50, with both North & South Wines and Simply Wines Direct stocking all five. The Brut NV (half Chardonnay and half Pinot Noir), which spent 20 months on the lees, is value with its persistent mousse, fresh acidity (pH 3.2) and creamy mid-palate.

“I’m always in pursuit of the perfect bubbly,” Ferreira professed. “I’d like to include some Pinot Meunier but the clone of it we have is no good. Happily though, we’re getting a new clone and planting vines from it next year. As for the Brut Rosé NV, which is two the-thirds Pinot Noir and a third Chardonnay, the depth of texture is the key.”

The three vintage sparklings all showed very well. The Blanc de Blancs 2016 (RRP £19.50), which was disgorged in September 2020, spent four years and three months on the lees, helping to compress and refine the mousse’s bubbles, which were small and long-lasting. The wine, which saw 50% oaking in old barrels, had fabulous length and freshness, with more ripe citrus than lime zest. Dosage was 5g/l.

The Pinot Noir Rosé 2015 (which contained 6% Chardonnay, which was co-vinified) spent even longer on the lees – 4 years and six months, with 6g/l dosage. Multi-layered, fresh and with notable length, this was an “exceptional” vintage in Ferreira’s view. “Just like the standout year of 2009 while 2017 was also fantastic,” he added. “Lots of brightness is the key in the 2015.”

The Ultra Brut 2015 (formerly known as Brut Zero up until 2014) has zero dosage, being 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. This wine always spends a minimum of five years on the lees, giving it greater expression. Elegant, complex and very long, with a fine mousse, this was the most expensive of the quintet at £25.50.

The R&R Teamwork team at their Fulham HQ

Journey’s End: flexibility is key

This year sees the 50th anniversary of the first MCC wines in South Africa. To coincide with it, Journey’s End, which is also celebrating the 25th anniversary of its founding as a winery, are releasing its first MCC wine in the autumn. Rollo Gabb, who is managing director of the Helderburg estate, revealed he will be focussing on independents like Tanners and the on-trade. Bibendum is also the importer for Journey’s End.

“The idea is that we will be working with Graham Beck to help build the MCC category further in the UK,” he told The Buyer. “We’ll be careful not to compete with them. It’ll be a small high quality production.”

The wide Journey’s End range impressed at the R&R tasting, supporting Gabb’s assertion that “the key hallmark of our winery is our flexibility and ability to deliver a broad range from super-premium single vineyard labels like Cape Doctor to entry-level Weather Man Sauvignon Blanc.” The Co-op sells 200 cases per annum of the latter, which at around £6 RRP, is a humdinger in terms of value.

The Identity Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (RRP £7) has sold well in Sainsbury’s and Asda, with the 2021 vintage available from late August. Gabb added that sales of the Queen Bee Viognier 2021 (RRP 10.99) were “going bananas at Laithwaites, who can’t get enough of it.” By picking early, cellar master Leon Esterhuizen has retained zippy freshness in the wine as well as keeping the abv down to 12.8% for a grape naturally high in alcohol.

As many as six Chardonnay labels from Journey’s End were on display, ranging from their Fairtrade Winemaker’s Reserve 2020 (£10) to the impressive premium Destination 2018 (£21.50). The former, with its pretty green apple citrus fruit, was superb value. So too was the Mount Rozier Red Snapper Cinsault 2020, available in Sainsbury’s for a bargain £6, and the M&S Classics Pinotage 2020 (£8). Bags of flavour from the latter’s juicy blackcurrant and cherry fruit, as well as good length, make that price a steal.

The two top Journey’s End reds completed a worthy lineup. Their V5 Cabernet Franc 2018 (punching well above its weight at £15) is a small production of three 300 litre barrels (all new), and combines minerality, savoury spice and coastal freshness. The Cape Doctor Bordeaux Blend 2016 (£22) also sees 100% new oak, which it effortlessly absorbs, and has glorious fruit with opulent cassis, graphite and mint notes.

Kleine Zalze: pure, naked Chenin Blanc

Making up R&R’s stellar South African triumvirate were Kleine Zalze, the leading Stellenbosch winery. The prolific producer has 75 SKUs, including a fine MCC, and makes 4.5 million bottles per year, although wines on display were restricted to four of its Chenin Blanc labels. The two mid-market ones offered value at £10-11: the Zalze Bush Vine 2020 being packed with zesty peach and pear fruit, and the Cellar Selection Bush Vines 2020 being a pure naked expression of Chenin Blanc.

The excellent Vineyard Selection 2020 (RRP £17.60) came from ten different parcels that were planted between 15 and 30 years ago according to cellarmaster Alastair Rimmer. “We had to add some acid, typically 0.5g/l, to some parcels as it was a very hot year and we had high sugar levels,” he said. “The fruit was mainly barrel-fermented in old 400-litre oak, with a tiny bit in clay amphorae, which is helping to add a very important saline component.” Beautiful citrus peel pithiness was a feature of this wine, which is in balance with a pH of 3.22 and abv of 13.7%.

The Family Reserve 2019 (RRP £24.80) is one of South Africa’s top Chenins. “2019 is one of Kleine Zalze’s great white vintages,” Rimmer declared. From low-yielding, old vines of between 37 and 47 years in age, it spent up to eight months in second, third, fourth and fifth fill oak, and then five months in tank. Beautifully lean and angular, with freshness and stoney minerality, this has a lovely mix of lemon, apricot, melon and honey. It also has the structure to last, and was awarded 5 stars by Platter’s Wine Guide, the celebrated South African annual publication, which nominated Kleine Zalze at its Top Performing Winery of the Year 2021. 

Six leading Portuguese winemakers

Managing to evade the rigours of Lockdown, quarantine and self-isolation, Geoffrey Dean travelled to the Wines of Portugal Challenge in Santarem. His job was to take part as a judge but he also managed to get out and about and get a snapshot of contemporary Portuguese winemaking through the eyes of six very different winemakers – from the small and unrepresented in the UK, right through to the second largest producer in Portugal. On top of getting an idea of what the challenges are facing the winemakers here, Dean also got a chance to try many wines and recommends the ones that stood out on the day.

By Geoffrey Dean July 29, 2021

One of the more imaginative field blend plantings in recent times – by Luís Louro in the Alentejo – epitomises the new-found creativity of many of Portugal’s winemakers. Earlier this year, Louro identified a one-hectare block formerly used for grain cultures near the town of Estremoz and planted as many as 36 different Portuguese varietals together.

These (80% red and 20% white) consist of many that are typical to Alentejo but planted less and less. “Like Tinta Carvalha, Moreto, Alfrocheiro, Castelão, Perrum, Rabo Ovelha and Manteudo,” he told me on a recent visit to his Adega Monte Branco winery. “I also planted others from regions that are not common or even not planted, as far as I know, in the Alentejo like Rufete, Ramisco, Alvarelhão, Marufo and Baga. The first harvest will be in two or three years time, and I will co-ferment all 36 together.” The end result will be a fascinating one.

Luis Louro

Luís, son of Miguel Louro of Quinta do Mouro fame, set up on his own and is making an impressive multi-price range from indigenous grapes that is worthy of UK representation (which he is seeking). At the everyday drinking end is his white Alento Branco 2020 (from Arinto, Antao Vaz and Roupeiro) with its tropical fruit notes and refreshing acidity, while at the top end is his red Monte Branco 2016, made from his best vineyard parcels of Alicante Bouschet and Aragonez. His mid-market wines are superb value.

If Luís Louro heads the vanguard of the younger brigade of winemakers, the greybeards of wisdom in Portugal remain masters of their craft. These include the likes of Vasco Garcia (winemaker at Bacalhoa), Domingos Soares (José Maria da Fonseca) Osvaldo Amado (Global Wines of Portugal), Jaime Quendera (Casa Ermelinda Freitas) and Manuel Lobo (Quinta do Crasto).

Vasco Garcia, the Bacalhoa winemaker

Bacalhoa: an advocate of Moscatel de Setúbal 

Good though his still red and whites are, Vasco Garcia at Bacalhoa remains a consummate producer of Moscatel de Setúbal, one of Portugal’s great fortified wines even if it does not enjoy the same brand awareness as Port and Madeira. It is made from Muscat of Alexandria grapes in the Setúbal peninsula just south of Lisbon. “What makes Moscatel de Setúbal unique is the balance between very high acidity from early picking and very high sweetness, as well as bitterness which is not often found in wines,” Garcia declared.

“The difference with Setúbal is that we keep the skins.  When we add brandy spirit to stop the fermentation, it is to the juice and the skins. We then leave the maceration until the spring when we press, fill the barrels and leave them for a minimum of two years. This is in special warehouses where we have natural shocks of temperature: 50°C in summer and minus 2°C in January at night. We never top up the barrels, and the evaporation leads to concentration not just in sugar but also in acidity. We end up with 200-250 g/l of residual sugar but a really low pH of 3.” Garcia added that a two-year old wine would have lower residual sugar of 140-50 g/l while a 30-year old would have 280 g/l.

We tasted a 2005 Moscatel de Setúbal from Bacalhoa, that was fortified to 17% abv. Dark amber in colour, with orange blossom on the nose, it boasted a glorious combination of orange peel, caramel, dried fruit and spices with a magnificently long finish.

Domingos Soares

Soares also flying the flag for Sétubal reds

José Maria da Fonseca is thought to have been the first winery to produce Moscatel de Setúbal, with vintages in the family cellar dating back as far as 1880.  The stylistic difference between their two versions made with Armagnac and Cognac was clear, with the former being more citric and floral, and the latter bigger and richer.

With 650 hectares under vine, the estate produces more still wine, with celebrated winemaker Domingos Soares always looking to come up with unusual blends of both reds and whites. It was he who brought the white grape Viosinho down from the Douro in 1992, and 51% of it is found in his delightful Pasmados 2015 label, which included 30% Viognier and 19% Arinto. The Viosinho gives both fragrance and structure, with melon and peach notes being prominent.

Six black grapes go into José Maria da Fonseca’s flagship red, a beguiling wine aptly named Hexagon. We tasted the 2015, with Soares’ favourite varietal, Touriga Franca the majority one, with the other five being Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, Syrah, Tinto Cão and Tannat. At 14% abv, with fresh acidity and soft tannins, this rich and intense blend showed how good Setúbal reds can be.

Osvaldo Amado, head winemaker for Global Wines of Portugal

Down amongst the ‘big boys’

Osvaldo Amado is another larger-than-life character, who is one of Portugal’s leading winemakers. He has a very wide brief overseeing the multiple brands of Global Wines, which exports to 45 countries. The company produces wine from Dão, Douro, Lisbon, Bairrada, Alentejo and even Brazil. We tasted wines from leading Dão estate, Casa de Santar, whose two sparkling Vinha Dos Amores labels showed particularly well. Both had zero dosage, a pH of 3.1 and an abv of 12.5%, with the Encruzado, a blanc de blancs, spending six years on the lees. The Touriga Nacional saw four years on the lees.

Jaime Quendera of Casa Ermelinda Freitas

Even bigger than Global Wines are Casa Ermelinda Freitas, which has 550 hectares under vine of their own but buy in fruit from 150 growers. An annual output of 20 million litres, half of which services the bag-in-box market,  makes them the second biggest producer in Portugal after Sogrape. “1997 was our first year of bottling,” head winemaker Jaime Quendera said. “We are 25 kilometres from the sea on poor, sandy Palmela soils but are lucky to have plenty of water as we are on the main underground repository in Portugal. It’s hot here but our vines are cooled off by sea breezes. We grow over 30 varietals. ”

Five of these – Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Aragonês, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon – go into their top red, the Dona Erleminda Grande Reserva. The 2017 comfortably absorbed 100% French new oak in which it spent 18 months before another 18 in bottle pre-release. From 20-year old vines yielding under two tons per hectare, it had notable concentration and offered good value at €25 retail.

Manuel Lobo, winemaker for Qta do Crasto

One of the best reds encountered in a week in Portugal was the Quinta do Crasto Douro Touriga Nacional 2017, whose winemaker Manuel Lobo was a fellow judge at the Wines of Portugal Challenge in Santarem. Only made in the best years from 35-year old vines, this had classy, elegant fruit as well as structure from some fine French oak. Complex with excellent concentration and length, this really pushed Touriga Nacional to another level, being well worth its €55 price-tag.  So too was another similarly-priced red blend from the Douro, the Quinta Vale D. Maria Vinha da Francisca 2018, which comprised five grapes – Tinta Francisca, Touriga Franca, Sousao, Rufete and Touriga Nacional. Both of these underlined how far Portuguese still wines have come in recent years, and what value they continue to offer.

The Inspirational Story of Doddie Weir's red blend

Former Somerset cricketer and wine expert Geoffrey Dean reports on the inspirational story of Doddie’5 Red Blend 2019, a unique South African red blend which has many parts to it but one purpose – to raise money for ex-Scotland rugby player Doddle Weir OBE, now suffering with Motor Neurone Disease. Weir wore the No.5 shirt for Scotland while Schalk Burger, who made the wine with his son Tiaan, wore the No.5 for the Springboks. In another homage to the wine’s sporting provenance the blend is made of five grape varieties with £5 from every bottle sale donated to Weir’s MND charity and Burger constructing the wine as if it were a team of legends.

By Geoffrey Dean July 21, 2021

“I salute you in the name of friendship, knowing that the game we played and love creates a special kind of human spirit, just like wine transcends all the bad,” Schalk Burger says to Doddie Weir.

Rugby players, like so many sportsmen, have long formed lasting friendships with former adversaries, particularly opposite numbers. It is no surprise, therefore, that Schalk Burger senior, who played six Tests for the Springboks in the 1980s, has teamed up with his younger son, Tiaan at their winery Welbedacht, to make a wine on behalf of Doddie Weir, the former Scotland international legend, who suffers from Motor Neurone Disease. And an excellent wine it is too, being given a very high score by Greg Sherwood MW and being fairly priced at £19.95, with a fiver from every sale going to the My Name’5 Doddie Foundation. This raises funds to aid research into the causes of Motor Neurone Disease and investigate potential cures.

Doddie Weir, 51, was diagnosed with Motor Neurone Disease in 2017

There is symbolism in the £5 donated, the name of the wine and the way it is made because both players wore the no 5 jersey for their countries, being lock forwards. Doddie’5 Red Blend 2019 adorns the Tartan-looking label, which was designed by the talented artist Henry Fraser, a tetraplegic who paints with a brush held in his mouth. When a member of the Saracens Academy, Fraser was paralysed from the neck down aged just 17 after a tragic diving accident in 2009, but has since composed some remarkable artwork.

In a moving Ode to Doddie, to be published soon through former England international Simon Halliday’s Sporting Wine Club, Burger writes: “So my dear friend Doddie, I have decided to tell you a little more about our project, to create a wine for you, and why I have had great pleasure in doing so. In the discussions with Simon Halliday and Kenny Logan [Weir’s former Scotland team-mate] developing this wine and brand with the help of Henry Fraser – what an inspiration himself – it was mentioned this project has got so many parts to it, we must somehow keep them all together and let it be known.”

Schalk and Myra Burger have made the wine with their son Tiaan

Not coincidentally, there are five grapes that make up Doddie’5 Red Blend: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Mourvedre and Petit Verdot. Almost a Bordeaux blend therefore. Burger, a hugely engaging and warm-hearted man, casts an amusing rugby slant on his selection.

“Cabernet Franc is the lock forward of all vines,” he writes. “They grow with vigour and are the most straight and upright of all vines, and they stay like that through their lifespan. Very adaptable, they exhibit the terroirs they grow in, with flavours of tobacco, raspberry, bell pepper and cassis,” Burger says.

“Merlot is the most adaptable of the five cultivars, and has got a soft fleshiness which makes it ideal for blending with a great mid-palate feel. Just like the flankers are the link between the forwards and backs – deft enough for passes to create an overlap but solid enough to keep at bay those sneaky scrum half snipes – Merlot helps blend the wine together.”

“Cabernet Sauvignon to me will be the props who, like the grapes, like a special type of soil to scrummage on. Producing those deep dark flavours to create high tannins and acids to age just like prop forwards do. Mourvedre is the number eight, the one that roams the field looking for work and many times not finding any, other than being on hand late in the game to collect an inside pass from a back to score the winning try and take all the front page glory the following morning. Obviously used in much smaller quantities in the blend, but can exhibit flavours that are earthy, wild game and farmyard.”

‘Lock, prop and two smoking’ barrels’: Tiaan Burger with the shipment of Doddie’s wine

“Petit Verdot is the hooker, and for no other reason than that is probably the least understood cultivar of them all, just like hookers are. It needs more heat and sun than Cabernet Sauvignon, and that is why we put it into the middle of the scrum.”

“We all know that the forwards are the most diverse group of players with each one having to do a specific job to be successful as a pack. The sum totals of the individuals, coupled with the passion they exhibit, determine the winning or losing of a match. Such is a wine, and a forward’s wine especially should be no less than that.”

“So Doddie, my friend, this wine was made with the passion of a lock combining all the support we need as a unit to perform, and may this piece be a small thank you for the way you are treating adversity, helping others, and now through wine allowing more people to help your cause. I salute you in the name of friendship, knowing that the game we played and love creates a special kind of human spirit, just like wine transcends all the bad. Only a fellow lock could end by saying, ‘I love you.’ ”

Fittingly, the 8,500 bottles produced are due to arrive on UK soil this Friday, the day before the first Test between South Africa and the Lions (for whom Weir was selected in 1997). Halliday, who revealed that half of the production has already been sold, is hoping that the rest will be taken up by not just the on and off-trade but also private individuals through Sporting Wine Club.

Simon Halliday and Geoffrey Dean (r) tasting the wine at Handfords

“It has been a struggle to get this across the line,” he told me last week when we tasted an advance bottle at Handford in South Kensington, who will have an allocation for in-store sales.

“A fire on the farm, pandemic-related delays crippling the South African wine industry, bottling and labelling businesses being closed, certification taking an age – and a new wine always needing more scrutiny. In terms of adversity though, pretty much nothing compared to the reasons behind the whole project. The story is truly inspirational and a credit to the Burger family for their commitment to Doddie and his fight against MND. Importantly, the wine has been scored 94 points by eminent MW Greg Sherwood and been marked as a beautiful blend of impeccable quality.”

“Sporting Wine Club is incredibly proud to be associated with such a project, having been approached initially by the My Name’5 Doddie Foundation. The first Lions v South Africa Test match is being designated ‘Doddie’s Lions Super Saturday,’ so join with us to help the fight against MND by raising awareness and funds. We would love people to support us on this and buy a case or two.”

Make no mistake, this wine is an outstanding one from the Burger vineyards in the Groenberg ward of Wellington where soils are predominantly decomposed granite. Medium-bodied with lovely, elegant red fruit, it is already a delight to drink with its soft, plush, juicy mid-palate now but has the structure and acidity to age (pH 3.6, TA 5.6 g/l).

Fine-grained dusty tannins have been beautifully integrated, with maturation in third fill 225-litre barriques. An abv of 14.2% is in balance, with the wine having notable freshness and very good length.

To order Doddie’5 Red Blend 2019, please visit Sporting Wine Club