Washington State tasting, London

London’s annual Washington State Wine tasting was one of the last ‘live’ events to be held in March 2020, before the pandemic struck. 16 months later and Geoffrey Dean attended this year’s event which showcased 91 wines from 13 producers. The well known names of Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Reynvaan, Gramercy Cellars, Betz and L’Ecole No 41 were all there but what made this event even more fascinating was the sheer amount of wines coming from lesser known estates and ones which are seeking representation in the UK.

By Geoffrey Dean

“Throw in some of America’s most capable winemakers, and you have all the ingredients for a flourishing wine industry with the brightest of futures,” writes Dean.

Trade and press representatives flocked to the recent annual Washington State Wine Commission tasting in London, delighted to enjoy an alternative to the endless sequence of Zoom sessions. Nor did the wines of the 13 producers who were exhibiting disappoint, although sampling even a third of the 91 labels available was a challenge in the allotted hour-long slots. Time was still sufficient for tasters to be struck by Washington’s intense New World fruit, beautifully counter-balanced by the classical sensibility and structure of the Old World.

How the climate ensures diversity of styles

As the USA’s second biggest wine-producing state, Washington’s importance is as clear as its diversity. As Juan Munoz Oca, head winemaker for the region’s oldest and biggest producer, Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, put it, “the north-west corner of the US is as diverse as perhaps the entire continent of North America. You get rain almost 24/7 in the Olympic Peninsula west of Seattle but very, very little the other side of the Cascade Mountains. The climate allows us the creativity to make wines in so many different styles.”

Washington State Wine recently launched the Alliance of Women in Washington Wine to highlight 90 women who are helping make Washington wine what it is today

While July and August in Washington are hotter than in Bordeaux, September and October are cooler, allowing grapes to be picked cold, while helping phenolic and physiological ripeness to coincide. Being on the 46th parallel, vines enjoy extra daylight, with the Columbia Valley, which encompasses all 16 of the state’s AVAs bar Columbia Gorge, enjoying 55 hours more sunlight than Napa Valley in the growing season.

For the record, Washington’s vineyards receive a paltry 6-8 inches of rain per annum, while Seattle gets 40 inches. From 10 wineries in 1970, the state now has almost 1,000, with four new ones established each month on average. Growers, who number over 350, play an important part. With 23,000 hectares under vine, Washington is not far behind Marlborough (29,000) and has grown to nearly a quarter of South Africa’s vineyard area (100,000 hectares). In 2020, Washington harvested 178,500 tons of fruit for wine production, with around 60% being black grapes and 40% white.

A very wide diurnal range is key to acid retention in the state’s vineyards, with temperatures often hitting 35°C in mid-July but falling to 14-15°C at night. Without irrigation from the Columbia River, the fourth biggest by volume in North America, winemaking would not be possible in Washington. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah in that order remain the most planted black grapes, with Merlot having initially been behind the state’s reputation for excellence. The other two varietals underlined at the tasting, however, that they are on a par in terms of quality. Of the white grapes, Chardonnay is the state’s most planted, closely pursued by Riesling.

Washington State Wine tastings are always an event

The most established estates were all present and correct

Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, established as far back as 1967, had as many as 31 labels on their stand, including seven Chardonnays and three Rieslings, including their benchmark Eroica 2019, the off-dry joint enterprise with Mosel producer, Ernie Loosen. Airfield Estates‘ three whites from the Yakima Valley – Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc – all impressed, as did the Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2018. Its grapes are sourced from an array of vineyards at the southern end of the valley, right by the Columbia River. Some come from growers, notably the Andrews brothers, Rob & Mike, fifth generation farmers whose property produces excellent fruit. Freshness from a low pH shone through, while flavours were fully developed and ripe with richness and opulence.

The standout Chateau Ste. Michelle red was their Col Solare 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, from the Red Mountain AVA (although the terrain there is neither mountainous nor red). Washington’s predominantly sandy loam soils – unsuitable for phylloxera – allow most vines to be planted ungrafted, which helps recovery from winter freeze and encourages a more intense expression of a varietal’s characteristics. Black cherry notes and cinnamon aromas are prominent in the Col Solare, with rose petals from a dash of Cabernet Franc (6%). High quality, silky tannins adorn this refined and elegant wine.

Matt Reynvaan, winemaker for the highly regarded Reynvaan Family Vineyards, planted in 2004 in the Walla Walla Valley AVA, says “we have some of the best Syrahs in the world.” Four outstanding labels gave weight to his claim, with his ‘In the Rocks’ 2018 containing 6% Viognier and his ‘The Contender’ 2018 5% Marsanne.

“In the Rocks is a very unique area,” he said. “It’s very warm in the day, and the captured heat radiates back off the rocks into the canopies when the nights are cool, continuing the ripening without losing acidity. The Contender, which was called that as we felt it could contend with any other Syrah, is the same fruit with oily texture and mouthfeel from the Marsanne. It’s more hedonistic with cocoa and crushed blackberry richness, and will be long-lived as it has an amazing backbone.” The most distinctive Reynvaan Syrah, the Foothills Reserve 2018, from a very high vineyard at 1000 m, exhibited coffee bean and bacon notes as well as structure from quality new oak.

A number of other Syrahs impressed (note that none were labelled as Shiraz). A pair from Gramercy Cellars stood out, with their ‘Lower East’ Syrah 2017, blended with 15% of Carignan, managing to combine funky meatiness with fresh elegance, with its red fruit focus including a hint of iodine. Gramercy’s Lagniappe Red Willow Syrah 2017 was rich with tremendous concentration and length.

Meanwhile, in the splendidly-named Rocks of Milton Freewater AVA (a sub-appellation of Walla Walla Valley AVA, which straddles both Washington State and Oregon), the Betz Family Winery have produced a delightful Domaine de Pierres Syrah 2018. Named after the baseball-sized basalt stones permeating the vineyards there, this particular terroir is home to a savoury red, black and blue-fruited wine with white and black pepper notes, whose floral, lavender and tarragon aromas jump out of the glass.

Regular reports, a content-rich website and sommelier-focused videos are some of the techniques being used to promote Washington State wine

Other wines that impressed

Other Syrahs that deserve a mention in dispatches are Pomum Cellars’ 2017 label, which had marked freshness as well as peppery spiciness; Sleight of Hand Cellars’ ‘Levitation’ 2018; and the Powers Winery’s 2017 label (all from the Columbia Valley). The latter contained 9% Merlot and 2.5% Viognier. Côte Bonneville’s superb Syrah 2014 from vines planted in 1992 in the steep, rocky DuBrul Vineyard in Yakima Valley was medium-bodied with real finesse. Aged in used French oak, this had vibrant freshness (pH 3.5) and was beautifully balanced (13.9% abv).

The same could be said for the same winery’s flagship label, the Côte Bonneville 2012, a 13.6% abv single vineyard blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%) whose 100% new oak was beautifully integrated. Intensity of flavour, rich texture, layered complexity, silky tannins and a lingering finish were evident. Showing equally well was the L’Ecole No 41 winery’s Perigee Estate Seven Hills Vineyard 2017 (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot and 9% Malbec). Winemaker Marty Clubb has crafted an elegant Bordeaux blend with seductive floral aromas, earthy structure and gorgeous fruit. From one of the oldest and most renowned blocks in the Walla Walla Valley, this is an outstandingly expressive wine.

A Merlot-dominated blend that impressed was Long Shadows Vintners’ ‘Pedestal’ Merlot 2018. Michel Rolland – “in Washington, I am dedicated to Merlot” – made this wine, which is a ripe opulent example of the varietal, spending 22 months in 85% new oak and given backbone by some Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). The fruit comes predominantly from the warm Wahluke Slope, providing cassis, chocolate and leafy herb notes. Another big Long Shadows wine, the ‘Feather’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, this time made by renowned Napa vintner, Randy Dunn, comes from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, a prime location for the varietal. Meanwhile, artisan producer DeLille Cellars’ outstanding Four Flags 2018, is made from the four best barrels of Cabernet from different vineyards in the Red Mountain AVA.

One prominent winery looking for an importer is Woodward Canyon, which was established in 1981 and is the second oldest in the Walla Walla Valley. A consistent producer of premium ageworthy Bordeaux-style reds and Chardonnays, their latter label from 2019 had lovely freshness and bright citrus fruit. Their Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, which included 10% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 3% Syrah, saw 28% new oak and was very appealing with its black fruit, herbal and lead pencil notes. Their Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, which also contained 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec, was a superb advert for the varietal in Washington. Very good use of oak, all of it new, added weight and structure to its quality blackberry and cassis fruit from the Sagemoor and Champoux vineyards (planted in 1968 and 1972 respectively).

And so in conclusion…

Washington’s wines, then, continue to go from strength to strength, with production expanding year on year. All the concomitants are there – a wide diurnal shift, low disease pressure, lean, free-draining loess soils on a basalt foundation, abundant sun, and a dry climate yet guaranteed availability of water for irrigation purposes. Throw in some of America’s most capable winemakers, and you have all the ingredients for a flourishing wine industry with the brightest of futures.

List of exhibitors with importers:

Airfield Estates (seeking representation)

Betz Family Winery (The Wine Treasury)

Côte Bonneville (seeking representation)

DeLille Cellars (seeking representation)

Gramercy Cellars (Flint Wines)

L’Ecole No 41 (The Wine Treasury)

Long Shadows Vintners (seeking representation)

Pomum Cellars (seeking representation)

Powers Winery (Amathus Drinks)

Reynvaan Family Vineyards (Ester Wines)

Sleight of Hand Cellars (Ester Wines)

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates (Ste. Michelle Wine Estates)

Woodward Canyon (seeking representation)

A Riesling tasting with 4 top winemakers

Riesling is one of the top grapes favoured by those in the wine trade – and for good reason. It is totally unique in its ability to withstand extreme cold, produce TDN and make such a vast array of wines with little or no need to be blended with any other varietal. David Rosenthal from Chateau Ste Michelle in Washington State, Erni Loosen from Dr Loosen Estate in the Mosel, Sam Barry from Jim Barry Wines in the Clare Valley, and Jean-Frédéric Hugel from Famille Hugel in Alsace, each discuss three of their new wines and what makes them special while Geoffrey Dean tastes.

By Geoffrey Dean September 1, 2021

To hear four such eminent Riesling winemakers pontificate together about the varietal and some of their wines – and to taste them – was a rare treat for those on the same Zoom call. David Rosenthal from Chateau Ste Michelle in Washington State, Ernst Loosen from Dr Loosen Estate in the Mosel, Sam Barry from Jim Barry Wines in the Clare Valley, and Jean-Frédéric Hugel from Famille Hugel in Alsace need little if any introduction.

Jamie Goode prefaced the tasting and discussion with a brief reminder of what makes Riesling such a special grape. How it has a high level of cold tolerance – down to minus 25°C – which explains its success in Niagara and New York State; how it is so adaptable, growing well in a range of climates; that it is rarely ever blended, and has no affinity with new oak; how it can get flavour ripeness while retaining very high levels of acidity (with a pH as low as 2.8); that it can be picked early or late, and can handle botrytis; how its styles range from luscious/sweet to bone dry; and how Riesling contains more TDN (1,1,6,-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronapthalene) than any other white varietal (TDN being the compound that gives rise to petrol and kerosene notes). Both New World winemakers, Rosenthal and Barry, confess they are not fans of TDN, while Hugel does not try to avoid it as it adds complexity but feels it should not be a youthful characteristic.

The 12 Rieslings tasted

Chateau Ste Michelle Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley 2020

Beautifully pure and lovely focus to this dynamic entry level Riesling. Interestingly, some wild yeasts are used for fermentation, although most are inoculated. Some lees ageing of anywhere between 4-6 months, which helps round off the high acidity from big diurnal shifts. With global warming, the viticultural team are trying to find cooler places locally so that fruit can be picked at the end of October. 100,000 cases to be produced next year. 12.5% abv

Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling 2020

What the winery is best known for, with up to 850,000 cases made per annum. Same minimalist winemaking as for the Dry Riesling but the fermentation is stopped a little earlier, with an off-dry style and 20 g/l of residual sugar the result. That is very well balanced by a pH of 3.05 and total acidity of 6.8g/l, which gives a crisp finish. More peachy with apricot than the citrus character of the Dry Riesling. Very versatile wine, as goes well with spicy Asian food and seafood. 12% abv

Chateau Ste Michelle & Dr Loosen Eroica Riesling Columbia Valley 2019

The partnership started in 1999 with Ernie Loosen, with the idea being in his words “to renovate Riesling’s reputation after the German flooding of the market with Liebfraumilch and Blue Nun.” Rosenthal added that extended hang time was the goal as Riesling needs that to get aroma ripeness without sugar over-ripeness. “I think we even harvest later than the Mosel in late October with an even higher TA of 7-7.5 g/l which counter-balances the residual sugar of 11.5g/l,” he declared. “The fruit comes from two cooler vineyard sites – in View Crest, Yakima Valley and in the Evergreen Vineyard Ancient Lakes area, a relatively new AVA. We try to capture the elegance of Mosel wines and the purity and power of Washington.” 12% abv

Dr Ernst Loosen

Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Dry Riesling Alte Reben 2019

Loosen explained why this vineyard is something of an exception for the middle Mosel. “Normally we get slate soil there but here it is weathered volcanic conglomerate soil,” he said. “This is why this is called Spice Garden (Würzgarten) as you get totally different aromas compared to slate. There you get stone fruit with peach but in Würzgarten you get herbal spice aromas. Of the 7 hectares we own, 3.5 are ungrafted, being on own roots and over 100 years old. The little berries we tend to get make nice very complex fruit with enormous complexity. There is also long hang time as the berries’ thick skins mean they don’t get attacked by botrytis.” Indigenous yeasts add to complexity, with structure coming from 12 months on the full lees. No malolactic fermentation is carried out, nor any racking before the wine is bottled. 12.5% abv

Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett 2019

Fermentation is stopped leaving 35-40g/l of residual sugar, with the final TA coming in at 9-10g/l. “But you don’t taste the RS due to the mouthwatering acidity and lovely fruit,” Loosen said. “My grandfather used to say this is ‘a perfect wine to drink yourself sober,’ because of the low alcohol. He used to offer guests this at 4pm instead of tea. So it’s a great aperitif wine, but can age due to the low pH. I have a 1938 from JJ Prum in my cellar.” A nose of pear and minty herbs precedes spice, earthy notes on the palate with hints of salinity and minerality. 8% abv

Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 2019

Picked later and riper at 10.5-11.5% potential alcohol, with 5-10 days more hang-time than the Kabinett, this has 66g/l of residual sugar with 1g/l less TA. As such it is rounder and more luscious, with ripe melon and pineapple notes and zesty tension on the palate. Spicy with racy acidity and terrific length, this is a beautiful wine, albeit one to lay down. “Best at a minimum of 10 years age,” Loosen advised. 8% abv

Jim Barry (far right) with Ernst Loosen flanked by Sam and Tom Barry (l-r)in front of the Wolta Wolta barrels

The Florita, Jim Barry 2017

Sam Barry praised the Florita Vineyard for being a famous site, although only 5% of it (the best block) ends up in this label. Originally planted to Palomino, the vines were replanted to Riesling in 1962, all on own roots. A clay-based sunscreen is sprayed to prevent harsh afternoon sun, also helping to keep the canopy cooler and increase hang-time by two days. “Sunburn is the biggest problem for us, so we fight against TDN and have east-west rows,” Barry revealed. “We get a huge diurnal range – from 40°C down to 12°C at night when all the heat is blown out of the valley by sea breezes. We press very gently, getting 400-450 litres per ton, as we don’t want to lose acid.” The 2017 is a wine of tremendous drive and purity with zesty acidity and notable intensity of lime fruit. It is taut and beautifully focussed, with a very long finish. 12.5% abv

The Florita, Jim Barry Cellar Release 2013

The Florita 2013 is starting to show what makes this wine unique. The magic of aged Australian Riesling is that it takes on a toasty marmalade character, which this wine has. With a pH of 2.9-2.95, there is ample acidity in this wine to allow it to age for much longer as well as power of fruit. No TDN notes – Barry says these are only seen in hot dry years. 12.3% abv

Wolta Wolta LoosenBarry Dry Riesling 2017

The fruit for this collaboration between Barry’s father, Peter, and Ernst Loosen came from an area of the Clare Valley known as ‘Wolta Wolta’ (the Aboriginal for good water).  “Dad and Ernie got on like a house on fire when they first met in London in 1995, and became good friends,” Barry said. “The most exciting thing about this project, which the two of them dreamt up at the 2015 Riesling Convention, is that it shows you can produce Clare Riesling in another way. Having it sat on full lees for two years has built complexity, texture, weight and mouthfeel that that no one has really seen in dry Australian riesling.” Fermented with indigenous yeasts, the wine was matured in large neutral oak (a  3,000-litre ‘Fuder’ cask). It has 7g/l of residual sugar (compared to 2g/l in Florita). “For me, it’s a very interesting experiment and style of wine,” Loosen commented. “This longer ageing gives a beautiful charming character.” 12.5% abv

Jean-Frédéric Hugel from Famille Hugel, tasting new dry Riesling from tank

Hugel Classic Riesling 2019

“What I want to do is show you varietal and terroir expression with these three wines,” Jean-Frédéric Hugel declared. “So we must taste the entry level and most expensive wines. In Alsace, we have very very little slate, unlike the Mosel, and lots of everything else. The mosaic of our soil has allowed us to grow Riesling in very different styles and profiles. The idea with the Classic is to show a benchmark. It’s from a blend of various soils in Alsace – predominantly granite & limestone, a tiny bit of slate and a fair bit of marly soils and sandstone. The clay content in marl gives fleshiness while the sandstone gives leaner wines with more aromatic profiles.” Hugel hailed 2019 as one of the top two or three vintages of the decade. 13% abv

Famille Hugel, Edition Limitée Riesling Grossi Laüe  2011

Based an old label – a re-edition of a 1950s one – this is two steps up in quality from the Classic. “The fruit comes from the three or four best blocks of the 12 we have in the famous Schoenenbourg vineyard, which made the reputation,wealth and fame of the town of Riquewihr. It’s what drew my family to settle in 1639, the objective being to get some Schoenenbourg. We are now the second largest owners on it, which gives us incredible choice in terms of blending.”  The 2011 vintage was a warm one, helping to explain the 14% abv. Full-bodied and rich, it is dry with bright acidity as well as both earthy undertones and a streak of salinity. Almond aromas precede ripe white peach and fresh lemon notes. A stunning wine. 14% abv

Famille Hugel Schoelhammer Riesling 2010

“Each of our 220 vineyard blocks has a name,” Hugel continued, “and one – the Schoelhammer – was nearly always more accomplished in terms of depth, concentration and mouthfeel, as well as having personality and ageing potential, so we thought let’s bottle it. This is built for the long-term, with 2010 the perfect meeting between the old times, when we picked in October, and warmer climates that allow for consistent quality.” Spicy with candied fruit and mineral crushed stone notes, this has power and structure yet vibrancy. Deep and earthy, this is so complex with a long life still ahead of it. “In the family, we like a minimum 20 years ageing for our single vineyard wines,” Hugel confessed. 13% abv

How South Africa's MCC wines shone

How MCC, Graham Beck, Kleine Zalze and Journey’s End shone at SA tasting 

While many a glass of MCC will have raised over the weekend in South Africa, as the Springboks narrowly beat the Lions, it is actually in the UK where we have been falling in love with South Africa’s sparkling wine. Fifty years old this year, MCC is the fastest-growing category in South Africa and, for a top producer like Graham Beck, the UK accounts for over half of its export sales. On a recent trip to South Africa Geoffrey Dean spoke to Pieter “Bubbles” Ferreira, Beck’s cellar master, along with Rollo Gabb, MD at Journey’s End that is set to release its first ever MCC wine this year, and caught up with their new wines (along with Kleine Zalze) at a recent SA mini-tasting.

By Geoffrey DeanAugust 9, 2021

“This year sees the 50th anniversary of the first MCC wines in South Africa. To coincide with it, Journey’s End, which is also celebrating the 25th anniversary of its founding as a winery, is releasing its first MCC wine in the autumn.”

Pieter “Bubbles” Ferreira, who has been Graham Beck’s cellar master for over 30 years, is in little doubt that the pandemic is the main reason for the sparkling wines producer’s 28% growth in exports to the UK last year. Widely regarded as the king of South African bubblies – hence his affectionate nickname – Ferreira revealed that the UK is Graham Beck’s number one export market, taking nearly half of all the company’s exports.

“Sales have been brilliant in Majestic and Waitrose, and doing well in the indies,” Ferreira told The Buyer, praising Bibendum which has been Graham Beck’s importers for nearly 25 years. “We’re sending 34,000 cases a year to the UK, and can come up with plenty more if necessary as we have 4.8 million bottles in storage here at the winery.” 

Every one of those bottles has been made by the traditional method – or méthode cap classique (MCC) as it is known in South Africa. Graham Beck’s decision to focus production entirely on MCC sparkling wines was an inspired one, for MCC is the fastest-growing category in South Africa, expanding at 18% per annum and doubling every 4-5 years.

As many as five of Graham Beck’s labels were on show at a recent London tasting of the three South African winery clients of R&R Teamwork Drink & Food PR. The quintet range in price from £15.99 to £25.50, with both North & South Wines and Simply Wines Direct stocking all five. The Brut NV (half Chardonnay and half Pinot Noir), which spent 20 months on the lees, is value with its persistent mousse, fresh acidity (pH 3.2) and creamy mid-palate.

Pieter “Bubbles” Ferreira at the Graham Beck winery in Robertson

As many as five of Graham Beck’s labels were on show at a recent London tasting of the three South African winery clients of R&R Teamwork Drink & Food PR. The quintet range in price from £15.99 to £25.50, with both North & South Wines and Simply Wines Direct stocking all five. The Brut NV (half Chardonnay and half Pinot Noir), which spent 20 months on the lees, is value with its persistent mousse, fresh acidity (pH 3.2) and creamy mid-palate.

“I’m always in pursuit of the perfect bubbly,” Ferreira professed. “I’d like to include some Pinot Meunier but the clone of it we have is no good. Happily though, we’re getting a new clone and planting vines from it next year. As for the Brut Rosé NV, which is two the-thirds Pinot Noir and a third Chardonnay, the depth of texture is the key.”

The three vintage sparklings all showed very well. The Blanc de Blancs 2016 (RRP £19.50), which was disgorged in September 2020, spent four years and three months on the lees, helping to compress and refine the mousse’s bubbles, which were small and long-lasting. The wine, which saw 50% oaking in old barrels, had fabulous length and freshness, with more ripe citrus than lime zest. Dosage was 5g/l.

The Pinot Noir Rosé 2015 (which contained 6% Chardonnay, which was co-vinified) spent even longer on the lees – 4 years and six months, with 6g/l dosage. Multi-layered, fresh and with notable length, this was an “exceptional” vintage in Ferreira’s view. “Just like the standout year of 2009 while 2017 was also fantastic,” he added. “Lots of brightness is the key in the 2015.”

The Ultra Brut 2015 (formerly known as Brut Zero up until 2014) has zero dosage, being 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. This wine always spends a minimum of five years on the lees, giving it greater expression. Elegant, complex and very long, with a fine mousse, this was the most expensive of the quintet at £25.50.

The R&R Teamwork team at their Fulham HQ

Journey’s End: flexibility is key

This year sees the 50th anniversary of the first MCC wines in South Africa. To coincide with it, Journey’s End, which is also celebrating the 25th anniversary of its founding as a winery, are releasing its first MCC wine in the autumn. Rollo Gabb, who is managing director of the Helderburg estate, revealed he will be focussing on independents like Tanners and the on-trade. Bibendum is also the importer for Journey’s End.

“The idea is that we will be working with Graham Beck to help build the MCC category further in the UK,” he told The Buyer. “We’ll be careful not to compete with them. It’ll be a small high quality production.”

The wide Journey’s End range impressed at the R&R tasting, supporting Gabb’s assertion that “the key hallmark of our winery is our flexibility and ability to deliver a broad range from super-premium single vineyard labels like Cape Doctor to entry-level Weather Man Sauvignon Blanc.” The Co-op sells 200 cases per annum of the latter, which at around £6 RRP, is a humdinger in terms of value.

The Identity Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (RRP £7) has sold well in Sainsbury’s and Asda, with the 2021 vintage available from late August. Gabb added that sales of the Queen Bee Viognier 2021 (RRP 10.99) were “going bananas at Laithwaites, who can’t get enough of it.” By picking early, cellar master Leon Esterhuizen has retained zippy freshness in the wine as well as keeping the abv down to 12.8% for a grape naturally high in alcohol.

As many as six Chardonnay labels from Journey’s End were on display, ranging from their Fairtrade Winemaker’s Reserve 2020 (£10) to the impressive premium Destination 2018 (£21.50). The former, with its pretty green apple citrus fruit, was superb value. So too was the Mount Rozier Red Snapper Cinsault 2020, available in Sainsbury’s for a bargain £6, and the M&S Classics Pinotage 2020 (£8). Bags of flavour from the latter’s juicy blackcurrant and cherry fruit, as well as good length, make that price a steal.

The two top Journey’s End reds completed a worthy lineup. Their V5 Cabernet Franc 2018 (punching well above its weight at £15) is a small production of three 300 litre barrels (all new), and combines minerality, savoury spice and coastal freshness. The Cape Doctor Bordeaux Blend 2016 (£22) also sees 100% new oak, which it effortlessly absorbs, and has glorious fruit with opulent cassis, graphite and mint notes.

Kleine Zalze: pure, naked Chenin Blanc

Making up R&R’s stellar South African triumvirate were Kleine Zalze, the leading Stellenbosch winery. The prolific producer has 75 SKUs, including a fine MCC, and makes 4.5 million bottles per year, although wines on display were restricted to four of its Chenin Blanc labels. The two mid-market ones offered value at £10-11: the Zalze Bush Vine 2020 being packed with zesty peach and pear fruit, and the Cellar Selection Bush Vines 2020 being a pure naked expression of Chenin Blanc.

The excellent Vineyard Selection 2020 (RRP £17.60) came from ten different parcels that were planted between 15 and 30 years ago according to cellarmaster Alastair Rimmer. “We had to add some acid, typically 0.5g/l, to some parcels as it was a very hot year and we had high sugar levels,” he said. “The fruit was mainly barrel-fermented in old 400-litre oak, with a tiny bit in clay amphorae, which is helping to add a very important saline component.” Beautiful citrus peel pithiness was a feature of this wine, which is in balance with a pH of 3.22 and abv of 13.7%.

The Family Reserve 2019 (RRP £24.80) is one of South Africa’s top Chenins. “2019 is one of Kleine Zalze’s great white vintages,” Rimmer declared. From low-yielding, old vines of between 37 and 47 years in age, it spent up to eight months in second, third, fourth and fifth fill oak, and then five months in tank. Beautifully lean and angular, with freshness and stoney minerality, this has a lovely mix of lemon, apricot, melon and honey. It also has the structure to last, and was awarded 5 stars by Platter’s Wine Guide, the celebrated South African annual publication, which nominated Kleine Zalze at its Top Performing Winery of the Year 2021. 

Six leading Portuguese winemakers

Managing to evade the rigours of Lockdown, quarantine and self-isolation, Geoffrey Dean travelled to the Wines of Portugal Challenge in Santarem. His job was to take part as a judge but he also managed to get out and about and get a snapshot of contemporary Portuguese winemaking through the eyes of six very different winemakers – from the small and unrepresented in the UK, right through to the second largest producer in Portugal. On top of getting an idea of what the challenges are facing the winemakers here, Dean also got a chance to try many wines and recommends the ones that stood out on the day.

By Geoffrey Dean July 29, 2021

One of the more imaginative field blend plantings in recent times – by Luís Louro in the Alentejo – epitomises the new-found creativity of many of Portugal’s winemakers. Earlier this year, Louro identified a one-hectare block formerly used for grain cultures near the town of Estremoz and planted as many as 36 different Portuguese varietals together.

These (80% red and 20% white) consist of many that are typical to Alentejo but planted less and less. “Like Tinta Carvalha, Moreto, Alfrocheiro, Castelão, Perrum, Rabo Ovelha and Manteudo,” he told me on a recent visit to his Adega Monte Branco winery. “I also planted others from regions that are not common or even not planted, as far as I know, in the Alentejo like Rufete, Ramisco, Alvarelhão, Marufo and Baga. The first harvest will be in two or three years time, and I will co-ferment all 36 together.” The end result will be a fascinating one.

Luis Louro

Luís, son of Miguel Louro of Quinta do Mouro fame, set up on his own and is making an impressive multi-price range from indigenous grapes that is worthy of UK representation (which he is seeking). At the everyday drinking end is his white Alento Branco 2020 (from Arinto, Antao Vaz and Roupeiro) with its tropical fruit notes and refreshing acidity, while at the top end is his red Monte Branco 2016, made from his best vineyard parcels of Alicante Bouschet and Aragonez. His mid-market wines are superb value.

If Luís Louro heads the vanguard of the younger brigade of winemakers, the greybeards of wisdom in Portugal remain masters of their craft. These include the likes of Vasco Garcia (winemaker at Bacalhoa), Domingos Soares (José Maria da Fonseca) Osvaldo Amado (Global Wines of Portugal), Jaime Quendera (Casa Ermelinda Freitas) and Manuel Lobo (Quinta do Crasto).

Vasco Garcia, the Bacalhoa winemaker

Bacalhoa: an advocate of Moscatel de Setúbal 

Good though his still red and whites are, Vasco Garcia at Bacalhoa remains a consummate producer of Moscatel de Setúbal, one of Portugal’s great fortified wines even if it does not enjoy the same brand awareness as Port and Madeira. It is made from Muscat of Alexandria grapes in the Setúbal peninsula just south of Lisbon. “What makes Moscatel de Setúbal unique is the balance between very high acidity from early picking and very high sweetness, as well as bitterness which is not often found in wines,” Garcia declared.

“The difference with Setúbal is that we keep the skins.  When we add brandy spirit to stop the fermentation, it is to the juice and the skins. We then leave the maceration until the spring when we press, fill the barrels and leave them for a minimum of two years. This is in special warehouses where we have natural shocks of temperature: 50°C in summer and minus 2°C in January at night. We never top up the barrels, and the evaporation leads to concentration not just in sugar but also in acidity. We end up with 200-250 g/l of residual sugar but a really low pH of 3.” Garcia added that a two-year old wine would have lower residual sugar of 140-50 g/l while a 30-year old would have 280 g/l.

We tasted a 2005 Moscatel de Setúbal from Bacalhoa, that was fortified to 17% abv. Dark amber in colour, with orange blossom on the nose, it boasted a glorious combination of orange peel, caramel, dried fruit and spices with a magnificently long finish.

Domingos Soares

Soares also flying the flag for Sétubal reds

José Maria da Fonseca is thought to have been the first winery to produce Moscatel de Setúbal, with vintages in the family cellar dating back as far as 1880.  The stylistic difference between their two versions made with Armagnac and Cognac was clear, with the former being more citric and floral, and the latter bigger and richer.

With 650 hectares under vine, the estate produces more still wine, with celebrated winemaker Domingos Soares always looking to come up with unusual blends of both reds and whites. It was he who brought the white grape Viosinho down from the Douro in 1992, and 51% of it is found in his delightful Pasmados 2015 label, which included 30% Viognier and 19% Arinto. The Viosinho gives both fragrance and structure, with melon and peach notes being prominent.

Six black grapes go into José Maria da Fonseca’s flagship red, a beguiling wine aptly named Hexagon. We tasted the 2015, with Soares’ favourite varietal, Touriga Franca the majority one, with the other five being Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, Syrah, Tinto Cão and Tannat. At 14% abv, with fresh acidity and soft tannins, this rich and intense blend showed how good Setúbal reds can be.

Osvaldo Amado, head winemaker for Global Wines of Portugal

Down amongst the ‘big boys’

Osvaldo Amado is another larger-than-life character, who is one of Portugal’s leading winemakers. He has a very wide brief overseeing the multiple brands of Global Wines, which exports to 45 countries. The company produces wine from Dão, Douro, Lisbon, Bairrada, Alentejo and even Brazil. We tasted wines from leading Dão estate, Casa de Santar, whose two sparkling Vinha Dos Amores labels showed particularly well. Both had zero dosage, a pH of 3.1 and an abv of 12.5%, with the Encruzado, a blanc de blancs, spending six years on the lees. The Touriga Nacional saw four years on the lees.

Jaime Quendera of Casa Ermelinda Freitas

Even bigger than Global Wines are Casa Ermelinda Freitas, which has 550 hectares under vine of their own but buy in fruit from 150 growers. An annual output of 20 million litres, half of which services the bag-in-box market,  makes them the second biggest producer in Portugal after Sogrape. “1997 was our first year of bottling,” head winemaker Jaime Quendera said. “We are 25 kilometres from the sea on poor, sandy Palmela soils but are lucky to have plenty of water as we are on the main underground repository in Portugal. It’s hot here but our vines are cooled off by sea breezes. We grow over 30 varietals. ”

Five of these – Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Aragonês, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon – go into their top red, the Dona Erleminda Grande Reserva. The 2017 comfortably absorbed 100% French new oak in which it spent 18 months before another 18 in bottle pre-release. From 20-year old vines yielding under two tons per hectare, it had notable concentration and offered good value at €25 retail.

Manuel Lobo, winemaker for Qta do Crasto

One of the best reds encountered in a week in Portugal was the Quinta do Crasto Douro Touriga Nacional 2017, whose winemaker Manuel Lobo was a fellow judge at the Wines of Portugal Challenge in Santarem. Only made in the best years from 35-year old vines, this had classy, elegant fruit as well as structure from some fine French oak. Complex with excellent concentration and length, this really pushed Touriga Nacional to another level, being well worth its €55 price-tag.  So too was another similarly-priced red blend from the Douro, the Quinta Vale D. Maria Vinha da Francisca 2018, which comprised five grapes – Tinta Francisca, Touriga Franca, Sousao, Rufete and Touriga Nacional. Both of these underlined how far Portuguese still wines have come in recent years, and what value they continue to offer.

The Inspirational Story of Doddie Weir's red blend

Former Somerset cricketer and wine expert Geoffrey Dean reports on the inspirational story of Doddie’5 Red Blend 2019, a unique South African red blend which has many parts to it but one purpose – to raise money for ex-Scotland rugby player Doddle Weir OBE, now suffering with Motor Neurone Disease. Weir wore the No.5 shirt for Scotland while Schalk Burger, who made the wine with his son Tiaan, wore the No.5 for the Springboks. In another homage to the wine’s sporting provenance the blend is made of five grape varieties with £5 from every bottle sale donated to Weir’s MND charity and Burger constructing the wine as if it were a team of legends.

By Geoffrey Dean July 21, 2021

“I salute you in the name of friendship, knowing that the game we played and love creates a special kind of human spirit, just like wine transcends all the bad,” Schalk Burger says to Doddie Weir.

Rugby players, like so many sportsmen, have long formed lasting friendships with former adversaries, particularly opposite numbers. It is no surprise, therefore, that Schalk Burger senior, who played six Tests for the Springboks in the 1980s, has teamed up with his younger son, Tiaan at their winery Welbedacht, to make a wine on behalf of Doddie Weir, the former Scotland international legend, who suffers from Motor Neurone Disease. And an excellent wine it is too, being given a very high score by Greg Sherwood MW and being fairly priced at £19.95, with a fiver from every sale going to the My Name’5 Doddie Foundation. This raises funds to aid research into the causes of Motor Neurone Disease and investigate potential cures.

Doddie Weir, 51, was diagnosed with Motor Neurone Disease in 2017

There is symbolism in the £5 donated, the name of the wine and the way it is made because both players wore the no 5 jersey for their countries, being lock forwards. Doddie’5 Red Blend 2019 adorns the Tartan-looking label, which was designed by the talented artist Henry Fraser, a tetraplegic who paints with a brush held in his mouth. When a member of the Saracens Academy, Fraser was paralysed from the neck down aged just 17 after a tragic diving accident in 2009, but has since composed some remarkable artwork.

In a moving Ode to Doddie, to be published soon through former England international Simon Halliday’s Sporting Wine Club, Burger writes: “So my dear friend Doddie, I have decided to tell you a little more about our project, to create a wine for you, and why I have had great pleasure in doing so. In the discussions with Simon Halliday and Kenny Logan [Weir’s former Scotland team-mate] developing this wine and brand with the help of Henry Fraser – what an inspiration himself – it was mentioned this project has got so many parts to it, we must somehow keep them all together and let it be known.”

Schalk and Myra Burger have made the wine with their son Tiaan

Not coincidentally, there are five grapes that make up Doddie’5 Red Blend: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Mourvedre and Petit Verdot. Almost a Bordeaux blend therefore. Burger, a hugely engaging and warm-hearted man, casts an amusing rugby slant on his selection.

“Cabernet Franc is the lock forward of all vines,” he writes. “They grow with vigour and are the most straight and upright of all vines, and they stay like that through their lifespan. Very adaptable, they exhibit the terroirs they grow in, with flavours of tobacco, raspberry, bell pepper and cassis,” Burger says.

“Merlot is the most adaptable of the five cultivars, and has got a soft fleshiness which makes it ideal for blending with a great mid-palate feel. Just like the flankers are the link between the forwards and backs – deft enough for passes to create an overlap but solid enough to keep at bay those sneaky scrum half snipes – Merlot helps blend the wine together.”

“Cabernet Sauvignon to me will be the props who, like the grapes, like a special type of soil to scrummage on. Producing those deep dark flavours to create high tannins and acids to age just like prop forwards do. Mourvedre is the number eight, the one that roams the field looking for work and many times not finding any, other than being on hand late in the game to collect an inside pass from a back to score the winning try and take all the front page glory the following morning. Obviously used in much smaller quantities in the blend, but can exhibit flavours that are earthy, wild game and farmyard.”

‘Lock, prop and two smoking’ barrels’: Tiaan Burger with the shipment of Doddie’s wine

“Petit Verdot is the hooker, and for no other reason than that is probably the least understood cultivar of them all, just like hookers are. It needs more heat and sun than Cabernet Sauvignon, and that is why we put it into the middle of the scrum.”

“We all know that the forwards are the most diverse group of players with each one having to do a specific job to be successful as a pack. The sum totals of the individuals, coupled with the passion they exhibit, determine the winning or losing of a match. Such is a wine, and a forward’s wine especially should be no less than that.”

“So Doddie, my friend, this wine was made with the passion of a lock combining all the support we need as a unit to perform, and may this piece be a small thank you for the way you are treating adversity, helping others, and now through wine allowing more people to help your cause. I salute you in the name of friendship, knowing that the game we played and love creates a special kind of human spirit, just like wine transcends all the bad. Only a fellow lock could end by saying, ‘I love you.’ ”

Fittingly, the 8,500 bottles produced are due to arrive on UK soil this Friday, the day before the first Test between South Africa and the Lions (for whom Weir was selected in 1997). Halliday, who revealed that half of the production has already been sold, is hoping that the rest will be taken up by not just the on and off-trade but also private individuals through Sporting Wine Club.

Simon Halliday and Geoffrey Dean (r) tasting the wine at Handfords

“It has been a struggle to get this across the line,” he told me last week when we tasted an advance bottle at Handford in South Kensington, who will have an allocation for in-store sales.

“A fire on the farm, pandemic-related delays crippling the South African wine industry, bottling and labelling businesses being closed, certification taking an age – and a new wine always needing more scrutiny. In terms of adversity though, pretty much nothing compared to the reasons behind the whole project. The story is truly inspirational and a credit to the Burger family for their commitment to Doddie and his fight against MND. Importantly, the wine has been scored 94 points by eminent MW Greg Sherwood and been marked as a beautiful blend of impeccable quality.”

“Sporting Wine Club is incredibly proud to be associated with such a project, having been approached initially by the My Name’5 Doddie Foundation. The first Lions v South Africa Test match is being designated ‘Doddie’s Lions Super Saturday,’ so join with us to help the fight against MND by raising awareness and funds. We would love people to support us on this and buy a case or two.”

Make no mistake, this wine is an outstanding one from the Burger vineyards in the Groenberg ward of Wellington where soils are predominantly decomposed granite. Medium-bodied with lovely, elegant red fruit, it is already a delight to drink with its soft, plush, juicy mid-palate now but has the structure and acidity to age (pH 3.6, TA 5.6 g/l).

Fine-grained dusty tannins have been beautifully integrated, with maturation in third fill 225-litre barriques. An abv of 14.2% is in balance, with the wine having notable freshness and very good length.

To order Doddie’5 Red Blend 2019, please visit Sporting Wine Club 

Carmen: one of 16 Chile standouts

Only one of Tim Atkin MW’s top 16 wines from Chile was a Cabernet Sauvignon this year – and even then only 6% of the wine was made up of the variety. Given that a third of the country’s vineyards are planted with Cab Sauv this was some going, even by adventurous Atkin’s standards. Instead, for the top 16 wines that he had chosen for his annual showcase, there were three single varietals you wouldn’t normally associate with Chile – Cinsault, Petit Verdot and Grenache – plus plenty that you would. For Geoffrey Dean it was the three red single varietals that really stood out, especially the Cinsault made by half-British winemaker Emily Faulconer in the Itata Valley.

By Geoffrey DeanJune 30, 2021

Tim Atkin MW and Wines of Chile’s joint annual presentation of 16 Chilean wines for the trade and press is anticipated with enthusiasm, and this year’s batch underlined both their range and quality. Atkin’s voracious appetite to travel and taste as widely as possible in South America, pre-Covid at least, makes him the best-qualified UK-based authority on Chile and Argentina. Very little escapes him, and his picks this time are a good mix of price points (four labels being £13.50-18.50; six being £20-£30; four over £30; and one a great value £7 quaffer).

As someone who travelled extensively through Chile’s wine regions a couple of years ago, I relished some curve-ball selections by Atkin, even if there were three repeats from his 2020 line-up. Given that nearly a third of Chile’s 136,000 hectares under vine is planted to one varietal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Atkin showed imagination in picking only one wine that had some of that grape in it (and even then only 6%). Three red single varietals not widely associated with Chile stood out – a 2020 Cinsault from Viña Carmen in Itata; a 2019 Grenache from Viñedos de Alcohuaz in Elqui; and a 2017 Petit Verdot from Pérez Cruz in Maipo Andes.

Carmen’s Cinsault from Itata

Emily Faulconer owes her English name to being half-British, but she is emerging as one of Chile’s most talented young winemakers: at Viña Carmen. Having known her since 2010 when she was doing a vintage at Château Canon, I have followed her career with interest, and her sublime DO Loma Seca Cinsault 2020, Itata Valley is worth every penny of the £30 RRP. Complex red fruit with lots of herbal notes; firm yet elegant tannins; refreshing acidity and a long finish combine to make this medium-bodied wine an absolute delight.

“No one took much notice of Cinsault here for a long time as it was always considered the ugly duckling,” Faulconer mused. “But the fruit comes from the Itata Valley, which is an amazing area with so much potential. The vineyard on dry-farmed granite soils is literally in the kitchen garden of the grower, who performs a completely different way of viticulture. The whole concept of Carmen is a non-interventionist one with our growers, and this works very well with Cinsault. This wine just saw concrete eggs and no oak as we want to keep the purity and fruit.”

Emily Faulconer is seen as one of Chile’s most exciting and talented young winemakers

The Elqui Valley, where Viñedos de Alcohuaz are situated, is about as far north of Santiago as the Itata Valley is south of the capital. Winemaker Marcelo Retamal has crafted a compelling expression of Grenache in Cuesta Chica Grenache 2019, Elqui Valley with lovely strawberry fruit, enticing perfume and notable length that fully justifies its £32 price tag. “One of the most beautiful places on earth,” is how Atkin describes the winery, whose vineyards lie on granite soils at 1700-2200 metres in a super-dry part of the Andes (where rainfall is less than 100mm per annum). Once again, the wine spent no time in oak – just concrete tanks.

Pérez Cruz winemaker, Germán Lyon, has crafted a fine Chaski Petit Verdot 2017 from Maipo Andes, just south of Santiago, in what was a very hot vintage, 2017. Normally used for blending, Lyon liked the fruit so much he decided to make a single varietal. Notes of herbal blackcurrant pastilles, mulberry, dark chocolate and coffee bean combine to make a complex wine with concentration and length.

Grape varieties more commonly associated with Chile

One of the top producers of Carménère in Chile, Marcelo García, gets the nod from Atkin for his 2018 VinaNoble CA2 Carménère, Lolol. This is a brilliant example of the grape, and very deep in colour thanks to a week of cold soak. Notwithstanding 14.7% abv,  it has wonderful freshness with no fatty, chocolatey or green pepper notes, with the fruit really expressing itself. The same applies to another García-made wine – this time by namesake Felipe of P.S. García in the Malleco Valley. A perfumed Pinot Noir 2018, Malleco Valley with great tension, this has silky tannins, lots of concentration and terrific length.

Three wines made from white single varietals deserve a mention in despatches. Highly eye-catching was a non-vintage Viognier, made by Ventisquero in the Huasco Valley of the Atacama Desert Region in Chile’s far north. Each of the vintages between 2011 and 2019 were blended, with earlier years maturing in old oak and latter ones in stainless steel. Limestone soils with ultra-high salinity give the wine saltiness and minerality. As with most Viognier, there is a certain amount of oiliness although the wine is not fat at all. A pH of 3.19 helps provide unusually high total acidity of 7.29 g/l.

By contrast, the Casa Silva Lago Ranco Sauvignon Blanc 2019 comes from the southernmost wine-producing valley in Chile – Osorno. Volcanic soils on a hillside site give minerality to a wine whose low pH of 3.1 ensures marked vibrancy. Fermented in stainless steel, it stays on the lees until bottled. Winemaker Francisco Calderón has produced a stunning Sauvignon that is worth its £21.95 price tag.

The best value-for-money vote for a Chile white goes to the Cousiño Macul Isidora Riesling 2019, Maipo which has an RRP of £13.50. While 14% abv, it has abundant freshness from a very low pH of 3.08 as well as great texture to counter-balance the alcohol. “People who taste the wine always love it,” Rosario Palma, the winemaker, purred. “I think it is a very interesting wine – very complex with intense aromas. I fermented it at 12-13 degrees Celsius in stainless steel, where it spent another four months before bottling.”

Blends and wines repeated from last year’s Chile list

Two well-priced, biodynamically-farmed red blends from the Colchagua Valley cannot go unmentioned. The Koyle Cerro Basalto Mediterranean, Los Lingues 2018 is predominantly Mourvèdre (38%) and Grenache (32%), with Carignan (24%) and Syrah (6%). “We are in a very special place where the expression of the landscape is very unique, with the interaction between the rocks and the roots,” Cristobal Undurraga, the winemaker, said. All the varietals were fermented and aged separately before being blended.

Noelia Orts is making great strides at Emiliana

A very different blend of eight grapes formed Emiliana’s Coyam 2018, with Syrah (42%) and Carmenere (39) making up the majority. Small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Malbec and Carignan were added, with dashes of Tempranillo and Mourvèdre. Winemaker Noelia Orts has fashioned a beguiling wine which is complex and long. This is one of her favourite vintages, and it is easy to see why.

Among the ‘repeats’ were two wines that were a year younger, both being from 2019 as opposed to 2018. The Bouchon Granito Semillon, made by Christian Sepúlveda, underwent 100% malolactic fermentation (after 30% in 2018) and had more texture and silkiness as a result. With a low pH of 3.09, it has freshness as well as elegance and will age for many years. Without doubt, it is one of Chile’s best white wines. Meanwhile, the La Roncière Licantén 2019 is made up of 85% Merlot, 8% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc (just as it was in 2018). Winemaker Juan Aurelio Muñoz has again produced a great value wine (RRP £13.95) that punches well above its weight, with its lovely red and black fruit, vibrant acidity, good length and concentration.

The third repeat, Bernardo Troncoso’s Montes Outer Limits Syrah 2019 was exactly the same wine and vintage, giving tasters another chance to have a look at it a year on. Its freshness – something Troncoso always aims to have in his wines – was very much apparent, as was a savoury damson edge and approachable tannins. It is one of Chile’s best Syrahs, and fine value at £20 RRP.

On-trade establishments looking for a great value Rosé, which is lip-smackingly drinkable, would do well to consider Viña Aromo’s Cuatro Vientos 2020 (RRP £7). Produced in a special part of the Maule Valley, which enjoys hot days but cooling winds late in the day, this refreshing Rosé, made from Syrah, has strawberry fruit with nice perfume and benefits from a low pH of 3.2.

The same pH was also recorded in a sumptuous sweet Sauvignon Blanc from the Casablanca Valley, giving it sufficient freshness to counter 184 g/l of residual sugar. The Morandé Edición Limitada Golden Harvest 2013 is botrytised, with a touch of volatile acidity giving it a delicate lift. Massively concentrated, with a seemingly never-ending finish,  this was a memorable ending to a remarkable line-up of Chilean wines that enhances the country’s ever-burgeoning reputation.

That list in full: Tim Atkin’s top 16 wines from Chile 

Cousiño Macul Isidora Riesling 2019, Maipo Valley 14% abv, £13.50 (New Generation Wines)

Viña Aquitania Sol de Sol Chardonnay 2019, Traiguén,  Malleco Valley, £18.50 (Lay & Wheeler)

Viña Aromo Cuatro Vientos Rosé Syrah 2019, Maule Valley, 13% abv,  £7 (seeking UK distribution)

Viña Carmen DO Loma Seca Cinsault 2020, Itata Valley, 13% abv, £30 (Santa Rita Estates Europe Ltd)

Viña TerraNoble CA2 Carménère 2018, Lolol, Colchagua Costa, 14.7% abv, £25 (seeking UK representation)

Montes Outer Limits Syrah 2019, Zapallar, Aconcagua Costa, 14%, £20 (Liberty Wines)

Emiliana Organic Vineyards Coyam 2018, Colchagua Valley, 14% abv, £20.99 (Boutinot Wines Ltd)

Casa Silva Ranco Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Osorno Valley, 11.5% abv, £21.95 (Jackson Nugent Vintners)

J. Bouchon Granito Semillon 2019, Maule Valley, 13.5% abv, £39 (Condor Wines)

Ventisquero Tara White Wine 2 Viognier NV, Huasco Valley, 13.5% abv, £40 (Janina Doyle)

P.S. García Pinot Noir 2018, Malleco Valley, 13.5% abv (seeking UK distribution)

Viñedos de Alcohuaz Cuesta Chica Grenache 2019, Elqui Valley, 13.5% abv, £32 (Indigo Wine)

La Roncière Licantén Malbec 2019, Curicó Valley, 14% abv, £13.95 (Corney & Barrow Ltd)

Pérez Cruz Chaski Petit Verdot 2017, Maipo Andes, 14.7% abv, £30 (Hallgarten-Novum Wines)

Koyle Cerro Basalto Mediterraneo, Los Lingues 2018, Colchagua Valley, 14.5% abv, £17.50 (The Wine Society)

Morandé Edición Limitada Golden Harvest 2013, Casablanca Valley, 11.5% abv, £40 (Berkmann Wine Cellars)

The Sicilian wines of Mandrarossa

A wine that costs £11 and has won the Tre Bicchieri award six times – sound too good to be true? That’s what Geoffrey Dean thought until he tried the Nero d’Avola Cartagho from Mandrarossa in a 6-strong wine tasting. A collaboration between Alberto Antonini, Mimmo De Gregorio and Pedro Parra, this Sicilian estate is just about to open its own winery 22 years after its first wine, as it moves from its cooperative origins to a wine producer focussed on single-site cuvées.

By Geoffrey Dean June 11, 2021

“The so-called ‘Innovation’ wines are named after different ‘contrada’, small districts within a commune whose wines have shown clear individuality,” writes Dean.

On-trade establishments wanting to pep up their wine lists in the face of soaring demand from previously cooped-up consumers would do well to consider Mandrarossa’s excellent series of labels, available through their UK distributor, Liberty Wines. The Sicilian producer unfurled half a dozen of them at a recent tasting, which underlined not only their drinkability but also what good value they are. More on the wines later but first a look at how Mandrarossa came into being and its philosophy.

Mandrarossa’s wines are produced from some of the best sites in the south-west of Sicily. The vineyards belong to 2,000 members of the Cantine Settesoli co-operative, and are grouped around Selinunte, an archaeological site whose beautiful old ruins date back 2,600 years.

First produced in 1999, Mandrarossa is about to open its own winery as it becomes increasingly focused on single-site wines. The celebrated oenology consultant, Alberto Antonini, working in conjunction with leading micro-terroir specialist, Pedro Parra, and head winemaker, Mimmo De Gregorio, selected 500 hectares of vineyard, farmed by some 160 growers, for the production of the Mandrarossa wines. These vineyards are situated close to the sea, where intense sunlight, moderating sea breezes, mild temperatures, elevated hillsides and a myriad of different soil types, notably limestone, combine to give high quality fruit.

Given the wealth of sites and varieties at their disposal, it isn’t surprising that they have several different styles of wines. The native varieties focus on Sicilian grapes such as Nero d’Avola, Grillo, Grecanico and dry Zibibbo, while the non-indigenous varieties include Syrah, Chardonnay and Fiano. The so-called ‘Innovation’ wines are named after different ‘contrada’, small districts within a commune whose wines have shown clear individuality.

Top of the tree are the wines made from single sites, 75 hectares from 37 growers that have been selected by Parra’s vineyard mapping. The Cartagho label, from a sandy vineyard in the Torrenova contrada that is regarded as the best source of Nero d’Avola, is the iconic Mandrarossa wine, having won a Tre Bicchieri award as many as six times at the annual Italian event organised by food and wine magazine, Gambero Rosso. Tre Bicchieri (‘three glasses’) are awarded to extraordinary wines, with ‘two glasses’ to very good wines and ‘one glass’ to good ones. The Timperosse (made solely from Petit Verdot) has also been awarded Tre Bicchieri.

So how were the wines tasting?

Urra di Mare 2020, Sauvignon Blanc, Sicilia DOC, 12% abv, RRP £16.99

Nearby sea breezes help give freshness and delicate vegetal notes to this Sauvignon Blanc, grown on south/south-west facing sites at 80-350m. Refreshing acidity and citrus peach notes, with some texture from several months on the lees.

Bertolino Soprano 2018, Bianco Sicilia DOC, 13% abv, RRP £29.99

An appealing full-bodied Grillo with some herbaceous, flint and floral notes. On the palate, hints of citrus, pear and loquat. This vineyard, with its very good limestone soils, was identified by Parra as a top site. Lots of vitality and energy in this wine, which has beautiful integrity and length.

Timperosse 2019, Petit Verdot, Terre Siciliane IGT, 13% abv, RRP £16.99

From limestone and sandy soils at 100-250m, this has ample acidity, soft tannins, juicy red fruit with mulberry and plum notes as well as aromatic herbs on the nose. Maturation in large casks of 3000-5000 litres with untoasted oak preserves the character of the wine. “We like drinkability, but it is too long associated with simplicity, which is a mistake,” De Gregorio said. “Mouthfeel is very important for us, as is complexity and elegance.”

Bonera 2019, Sicilia DOC, 13.5% abv, RRP £18.99

This blend of Cabernet Franc and Nero d’Avola works very well, with red fruit from the latter merging nicely with the blueberries and blackberries from the latter. Balsamic and slightly vegetal notes from the Cabernet Franc give the wine some complexity and elegance. Approachable tannins and fresh acidity help provide good balance.

Terre del Sommaco 2017, Nero D’Avola, Rosso Sicilia DOC, 14% abv, RRP £33.99

From the best limestone soils in the Santa Margarita region, this has never-ending reserves of fresh acidity with beautiful fruit and spices. “A very nervous wine and a very pure and authentic expression of real Sicilian Nero D’Avola,” De Gregorio purred. “Take it or leave it as we say! The wine has experienced an amazing improvement in bottle ageing, and is starting now to express its character, although it will last for decades.” A terrific food wine.

Cartagho 2019, Nero D’Avola, Sicilia DOC, 14% abv, RRP £24.99

The most famous wine from the Mandrarossa range, and the most popular from this grape on the Italian market. Classic, spicy, peppery Nero D’Avola with blackberry and red cherry fruit. Blended from three different vineyards, with clay soils offering roundness and softness. Some structure from large, old oak casks, with vibrant acidity, gentle tannins and a velvety finish. A pleasure to drink now, but will keep for a few years yet.

The Irresistible rise of Luis Cañas

The irresistible rise of Rioja Alavesa’s Luis Cañas

Luis Cañas was in the right place at the right time. A chance encounter, a good drop of vino and the rest, as they say, is history. Geoffrey Dean has an audience with Luis’ son Juan Luis Cañas who now runs this top producer in Rioja Alavesa, gets an insight into its winemaking philosophy, hears about its rare grape plantings and gets to taste six of the new vintages including three Bodegas Amaren wines, which are only released in the very best vintages.

By Geoffrey DeanMay 19, 2021

“At Luis Cañas, being green is not a marketing trend – it is our philosophy and the key to success,” says Juan Luis Cañas.

Half a century on from a chance meeting that led the family to bottle their own wine rather than send it to the local co-operative, the story of Luis Cañas, the leading Rioja Alavesa producer, has been nothing but a heart-warming one. The bodega’s remarkable development has been such that it is now one of the most progressive in the region, with the latest release of its top labels at the end of April underlining how good its wines are.

First, though, more on that chance meeting in 1970, as told by Juan Luis Cañas. “My father, Luis, was drinking our wine with friends in the village square one day when a man stopped and asked to taste,” he said. “It turned out the man was the president of a famous gastronomic society. He and his members returned and asked for more, and that led to Luis Cañas being the first grower to bottle his wines in the region.” 

Three generations: Luis Cañas, his son Juan Luis Cañas and grandson Jon Cañas

Sales soon took off, and in 1994, Luis Cañas opened a new winery with state-of-the-art equipment, and five years later, a new barrel cellar was built. Then, in 2006, a purpose-built, fully equipped accommodation block was constructed for the entire vineyard team.  For nowhere is the feeling of family more apparent than at this bodega, where Juan Luis has carried on his father’s legacy since his passing in late 2019. His own son, Jon, works alongside him. 

The estate’s 270 hectares on predominantly limestone-clay soils, which are home to some very old vines, are farmed organically. The focus is on small single plots, which number as many as 870 and produce terroir-driven wines with a real sense of place. And what is especially interesting about the bodega’s viticultural approach is the extraordinary number of different clones of each varietal it has experimented with in its quest to find the ideal one for particular sites. They are worth recording: Tempranillo 167, Graciano 53, Granacha 34, Viura and Malvasia Riojana both 24, Bobal 14 and Calagraño 5. 

“This is the focus now and in the future,” Juan Luis says. “I was born in Rioja Alavesa, and I believe in its future and its past. We realise nature is the source of success, and strive to maintain the privileged characteristics it has bestowed on our vineyards. At Luis Cañas, being green is not a marketing trend – it is our philosophy and the key to success.” 

Juan Luis Cañas: a preference is for higher altitude sites and longer-growing cycles

Respect for forgotten varieties, and the reality of climate change, has led Juan Luis to replant or preserve small amounts of Marufo, Aramon, Calagraño and Santa Magdalena. “My preference is for higher altitude sites and longer-growing cycles, along with fermentation in concrete eggs or small tanks, and careful use of wood,” he added. “Minimal intervention and trying to get a sense of the soil; a return to specific plots and to what used to be done.”

Juan Luis is the force behind the family’s Bodegas Amaren wines, also from Rioja Alavesa, which were first made in 1995 as a tribute to his mother, Angeles, and are only produced in the best years. A telling indication of the quality of Amaren (from the Basque for “of my mother”) is that they feature on the wine list of five of the seven Michelin 3-star restaurants in Spain.

A really interesting white is the Amaren Malvasia 2016, which is a 100% single varietal (Malvasia Riojana) made from vines planted in 1921 on very poor soils at 550m. Fermented in concrete eggs, the wine spends 14 months on the fine lees giving richness. Minerality from chalk soils is a feature, while Juan Luis says a compulsory two-year-in-bottle period before release helps to accentuate aromas of flowers and camomile.

Two red Amaren labels from the 2017 vintage showed outstandingly well. The Carraquintana Viñedo Singular (single vineyard), which comes from three parcels planted in 1930, 1940 and 1962, is a field blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Malvasia which are co-fermented. No new oak was used for maturation, which involved 14 months in five-year old 500-litre French puncheons. The El Cristo de Samaniego de Amaren 2017, another field blend of the three varietals above but also featuring some Viura, comes from a very high single vineyard, 625m above sea level on the slopes of Sierra de Cantabria. 

A purpose-built accommodation block for the entire vineyard team was added to the estate in 2006

Three Bodegas Luis Cañas labels were no less impressive. The beguiling El Palacio 2017, the closest vineyard to the cellar in Villabuena de Alava, is another field blend of vines planted in 1969 on 2.6h of bush vines on three different terraces, which face north, west and north-west. In the process of being classified a single vineyard, it again showed a real sense of site with its thyme, rosemary and garriguey notes. The superb Camino Leza 2017 likewise came from a field blend of vines planted in 1965, with the Tempranillo from a very low-yielding clone. It is made up of 1% of the rare Calagraño grape, along with some Viura and Malvasia Riojana. Finally, the excellent Luis Cañas Reserva 2015 was made from slightly younger Tempranillo and Graciano vines with an average age of 40 years.

So how were the wines tasting?

Amaren Malvasia 2016, Rioja DOC, 13.5% abv, RRP £35. Delicate floral aromas of orange blossom, nutmeg and brioche. Pineapple and pear notes with some balsamic traces. Fermented in concrete eggs with 14 months on lees giving fullness and richness. Freshness from a low pH of 3.25 ensures the  wine is well-balanced.

Carraquintana de Amaren 2017, Viñedo Singular, Rioja DOC, 14% abv, RRP £60. Serious power and structure from Tempranillo, with white pepper from Graciano and delicate floral notes from Malvasia. Fine tannins beautifully integrated, with ripe red and black fruit. Layers of complexity with minerality, freshness and a concentrated finish.

El Cristo de Samaniego de Amaren 2017, Viñedo Singular, Rioja DOC, 15% abv, RRP £40. Ripe black and red fruit with a big structured palate and powerful but well-meshed tannins. Dark chocolate notes add weight and concentration, but easy to drink due to sweet black fruit. Vibrant acidity gives freshness and balance. Complex and long.

Camino Leza Luis Cañas 2017, Rioja DOC, 14.5% abv, RRP £65. Incredibly intense expression of Tempranillo, with quite overt yet silky tannins. Low pH of 3.78 gives very bright acidity and helps balance the wine’s powerful structure. Red fruit and blackberry notes with tobacco and spice on the nose. Touch of Viura lifts the tannins. Memorable concentration and length, and already a delight to drink notwithstanding its long cellaring potential. 

El Palacio Luis Cañas 2017, Rioja DOC, 14.5% abv, RRP £52. Distinctively different from the Samaniego and Leza sites. Elegant and wonderfully harmonious, it has concentration and personality from the Tempranillo (75%), colour, vibrancy and freshness from the Graciano (20%) and some richness and creaminess from the Viura (5%). Deliciously meaty with masses of concentrated cassis-like fruit but with a bright raspberry edge too. Notably complex and long.

Luis Cañas Rioja DOC Reserva 2015,  14.5% abv, RRP £22.  Juicy red fruits and soft, silky high quality tannins made this very drinkable indeed. Lots of fresh acidity, plenty of structure and a lengthy finish add up to a value-for-money Reserva that spent 18 months in second fill oak (60% French and 40% American).

Cape Fine & Rare Auction 2021

How South Africa’s history will unfold at the Cape Fine & Rare Auction

The second Cape Fine & Rare Auction takes place on May 22 with a 200-year old bottle of sweet Muscat de Frontignan hogging all the headlines. But it is not just Groot Constantia’s bottle of Grand Constance 1821 that makes this year’s event worth registering for. A new tasting panel, a new set of criteria and overall set-up has ensured that the range of wines on offer and the quality level has never been higher. Geoffrey Dean talked to leading South African wine critic Michael Fridjhon, Cathy van Zyl MW and François Rautenbach about why wine buyers should tune in this year, what’s on offer and how the auction delivers a captivating slice of South Arica’s continually evolving wine history.

By Geoffrey Dean May 5, 2021

A 200-year old bottle of sweet Muscat de Frontignan will come under the hammer at the Cape Fine & Rare Auction on May 22 when some of South Africa’s rarest and finest wines will be available to international buyers. The bottle of Grand Constance 1821, which was made by Groot Constantia on the Cape Peninsula, was recorked in 2019 under the meticulous supervision of leading sommelier Jean-Vincent Ridon, the CEO of Amorim Cork, Joaquim Sá and celebrated South African wine critic, Michael Fridjhon.

The Cape Fine & Rare Auction, which was first launched in October 2019, was the successor in title to the well-established Nederburg Auction, which had run since 1975. The latter had for years been the highlight of the country’s wine calendar but Fridjhon, who had tasted at or written on every one of them, felt it was time for change.

“The decision was taken by the sponsorship manager at Distell to open the auction more broadly to the industry as a whole,” he said. “It was always open to the industry, but there was some discomfort from certain producers that they were sharing their brand with the Nederburg brand. More wines can now enter – it’s absolutely open to every producer in the industry. As long as you are prepared to meet the terms and conditions, which are pretty easy, then you can come and play. It doesn’t matter what other routes to market you cultivate.”

Michael Fridjhon

Fridjhon, along with Cathy van Zyl MW, head sommelier and winemaker Joseph Dhafana and general manager of Singita Premier Wine Direct, François Rautenbach, formed a team of expert South African tasters who sampled most entries blind and decided which should go forward into the auction. Apart from quality, a key essential was that the wines could not be commercially available.

“The conditions relate to rarity, the finesse or fineness of the wines and the fact they should not be commercially available,” Fridjon explained. “They need to have some age and rarity. Some entries are undisputed – if you come from a serious property, and the wine meets the criteria of known quality, known age and known rarity, you can tick a box and say that’s a logical player. At the preliminary stage, a bunch of wines are included automatically, and a bunch excluded automatically. Then you have the chunk in the middle – which are not about brand but what’s in the bottle.”

Cathy van Zyl MW

Van Zyl believes that the wines on offer this year are even better than at the last auction in 2019. “The quality bar was set higher this time,” she told The Buyer. “I hope a lot of overseas buyers appreciate that we’ve gone through this rigorous quality control. It’s a vital process as some wines are quite old and we need to check on their provenance. That tells producers how serious we are about putting good quality lots on auction. There’s a need for wines that excite people with wines they really want to buy. Good prices and good lots say the auction is well curated, which builds confidence and feeds into the auction.”

“We do still have old classics like Meerlust, Simonsig and Kanonkop, but this auction gives us the chance to showcase new classics. There are no 1970s but a Zonnebloem Cabernet from 1986 which has some great fruit on the mid-palate. We were a little hesitant about that but it’s a really well-judged wine, and reached a beautiful plateau. Even in the whites, there are some very interesting wines such as David & Nadia, Sadie and Vondeling, which is an estate that people should look at. The old vine selection cases quite often have some gems, as do the Cap Classiques. It’s been an honour to taste through as you see an unfolding history of the South African wine industry. Some 1990s Pinotage have matured fantastically, and are alive and well.”

Van Zyl urges wine lovers out there not to ignore South Africa as a source of enjoyable but very high quality wines. “But obviously as with any wine country, you do have to know what you’re buying,” van Zyl professed. “Buying on this auction is a short-cut for someone who doesn’t really know SA that well but is wanting to learn. It’s also a wonderful opportunity for people who know SA from 20 or 30 years ago to rediscover what the SA industry is showcasing and producing, because I do believe our wine quality is a lot better across the board that it was 20 years ago.

“There used to be over-extraction, overworking and not enough understanding of the role of small oak. There was an under-ripe framework where virused vineyards couldn’t get the fruit properly ripe. Now there’s a better understanding of how to get the best out of a vineyard. It’s less recipe-driven winemaking. Now producers have aspirations and are prepared to experiment and chase the holy grail of quality. There’s been a slow trickle-up process with bigger producers making smaller batches and picking earlier. They realise they need to create excitement with their brands.”

The recorking of the Grand Constance 1821

Rautenbach feels that, as people have become much more familiar with Zoom over the course of the pandemic, long-distance auctions can benefit. The Cape Fine & Rare will be held as both a virtual and a live event in the Rupert Museum in Stellenbosch, with bidders in-person and online. “International guests are looking for really good South African examples of Cabernet, and also styles they’re unfamiliar with, making it a voyage of discovery,” he said. “We want to encourage people to put away older vintages. For example, the 2009 Rustenberg Peter Barlow is still a stellar wine, and I know it doesn’t matter what we pay for it now as it will be worth a lot more in 10 years time.”

In focus: South Africa's wine tourism hotspots

by Geoffrey Dean

Our gallivanting gadabout, Geoffrey Dean, finds the South African wine industry is upping its game to give tourists the best possible experience post-pandemic.

The wine tourist who makes it to South Africa in the next year or so will have never had it so good. The range, excellence and value-for-money of the western Cape winelands’ accommodation, cuisine and cellar doors continues to reach new heights. And you’ll be hard-pressed to receive a warmer welcome, such is the gratitude felt towards visitors since the pandemic.

The vineyards of Klein Constantia

Being one of the fortunate few from overseas to have spent time in the western Cape in January and February this year, I can vouch that very strict adherence to anti-Covid procedures is being observed in wineries, hotels and restaurants.

Entry into them is only permitted after a temperature test; hand sanitisers are everywhere you go and masks, which are compulsory in all public places, are worn much more fastidiously than in the UK.

This is especially the case in Constantia, on the Cape Peninsula – the obvious place to start an exploration of the winelands. The Vineyard Hotel is something of a misnomer, being situated in the southern suburb of Newlands rather than in the midst of any vines, but it is an ideal location from which to explore Constantia’s wineries.

It is also a wonderful place to stay, being four-star but nearer five in quality. Its rooms look out over eight acres of gardens, with Table Mountain behind them. The former managing editor of the Daily Telegraph, Jeremy Deedes, likes The Vineyard so much that he and his wife spend every January and February there.

Those wanting to stay outside Cape Town on the Cape Peninsula should look no further than Steenberg Hotel & Spa, which is situated in the middle of Steenberg Vineyards. The hotel, very much a five-star, has 24 spacious rooms that are exquisitely furnished as well as three suites and two villas suitable for a family.

Steenberg Hotel & Vineyards (with golf course on right)

The historic old manor house, a 17th century national monument, can also be booked and sleeps ten. The hotel has a pair of outstanding restaurants – Tryn and BistroSixteen82, the latter named after the year the farm was first settled.

Throw in a popular tasting room, where Steenberg’s full range of notable wines can be tasted, as well as a challenging golf course that is available to guests, and you have all the recipes for a self-contained wine tourism holiday.

There are, though, a number of wineries on the Cape Peninsula that shouldn’t be missed. The two southernmost are Cape Point Vineyards and Trizanne Signature Wines. The former’s cellar door boasts not just world-class Sauvignon Blancs, notably the Isliedh label, but also marvellous views of the white sands of Noordhoek beach below it.

Trizanne Barnard’s boutique setup is tucked away on the edge of Kommetjie, but her wines are well worth making the necessary appointment to taste. Her reserve Syrah is among South Africa’s best.

A quartet of leading Constantia wineries boast both excellent cellar doors and restaurants. The Jonkerhuis eatery at Groot Constantia, the oldest wine farm in South Africa, serves a savoury ‘estate tasting plate’ and scrumptious pavlova. Opposite it lies the magnificent manor house, built in 1685, now a museum and well worth a visit.

Klein Constantia, reached down the prettiest of winding drives, is a place you can happily spend half a day, with its welcoming tasting room and delightful new bistro, through whose deck a pair of jacaranda trees protrude.

Matt Day, Klein Constantia winemaker

The long list of wines, made by talented young winemaker Matt Day, needs time to taste through, and includes several top Sauvignon Blanc labels (such as Block 382, Clara and Perdeblokke), an aristocratic Bordeaux blend and South Africa’s finest sweet wine, Vin de Constance ­– a favourite of Napoleon.

Made from Muscat de Frontignan, the regally unctuous 2017 comes in at 165 g/l of residual sugar: that and older vintages can be tried with an afternoon cheese platter at the bistro. Chef Graham Davies produces ambrosial lunches to pair with Klein Constantia’s superb wines.

Neighbouring winery Buitenverwachting is another scenic old estate with impressive tasting and eating facilities. Beau Constantia, whose vineyards are the highest in Constantia at 362 metres, makes full use of its brilliant location.

Its restaurant, Chefs Warehouse, enjoys jaw-dropping views over False Bay while serving some of the best cuisine in the region. Chef Ivor Jones conjures up food of great flavour with a strong Asian influence, while Megan van der Merwe makes enticing wines to partner his dishes.

Culinary delights also abound in Stellenbosch, a number of whose wineries offer outstanding accommodation options. Not to be missed is Jordan Wine Estate, a few kilometres west of town, which has half a dozen luxury suites overlooking the vineyards.

The view from Jordan Restaurant

Very nicely furnished, these are a short walk from the winery’s bakery and the celebrated Jordan Restaurant, where Scottish-born chef George Jardine fashions cuisine that is as stunning as the views from it of the Simonsberg, Helderberg and Stellenbosch Mountains. Try the aged Chalmar sirloin and the honey and poppy seed soufflé.

Another leading chef, Nick van Wyk, prepares outstanding fare at the Kleine Zalze restaurant, next to the winery. A tasting of Kleine Zalze Wines’ full range, which is produced by top cellarmaster Alastair Rimmer, is a must.

As many as seven of their labels were awarded five stars in the latest edition of Platter, the national wine guide which selected it as its top performing South African winery for 2020.

What is one of the western Cape’s most impressive winery brands (featuring 75 SKUs) is complemented by the comfortable De Zalze lodge and golf course. The latter is recognised by golfers as one of the best in the western Cape.

A Delaire Graff Estate lodge

The Delaire Graff Estate superior lodges, meanwhile, rank among the most luxurious accommodation options in the winelands. Perched on the crest of the Helshoogte Pass, each lodge’s stylish and spacious interior spills out onto a private terrace and plunge pool with memorable views of Stellenbosch Valley below and Table Mountain in the distance.

Delaire Graff’s fine range of wines, made by the able Morne Vrey, is available for tasting, while chef Virgil Kahn cooks delicious Afro-Asian food at the hotel’s Indochine restaurant. Two wives of Stellenbosch winery owners oversee lunches in the most atmospheric of venues.

Elena Dalla Cia produces pasta that melts in the mouth at the Pane e Vino Food & Wine Bar at Bosman’s Crossing in the centre of town. Her husband, George, and father-in-law, Giorgio, the former Meerlust winemaker, craft a superb range of wines and spirits under the Dalla Cia label. Their grappa is among the best found outside Italy.

A few kilometres north of Stellenbosch at Muratie, one of the most characterful wine estates in the district, Kim Melck directs a kitchen whose quality and value-for-money lures visitors from far afield.

While the traditional old tasting room is a splendid nod to history, her husband Rijk has installed modern shower and changing facilities in a converted stable for cyclists and hikers who tackle the 26km of trails on the Simonsberg Mountain behind Muratie. A delightful cottage by the Muratie vineyards is available for short or medium term lets.

Orchard Cottage, Boschendal

The beautiful 5,000-acre Boschendal estate in the picturesque Drakenstein Valley near Franschhoek also has a varied collection of desirable cottages for rent. These include the flagship Cottage 1685, and the secluded Trout Cottage, both of which are found in the private part of the farm, and the lovingly-restored Orchard and Werf farm cottages.

Traverse the estate on foot, mountain bike or horseback, and you come across caves to explore, dams to swim in and even the former set of Homeland, the American espionage TV series, some of which was filmed on Boschendal. The Werf restaurant offers sumptuous cuisine in a glorious setting, while cellar master Jacques Viljoen’s extensive range of Boschendal Wines is well worth tasting through at the homely cellar door.

Not far from Boschendal in the Franschhoek Valley is another big and very old Cape Dutch wine farm with five-star accommodation: Babylonstoren. The hotel section’s thick whitewashed walls, elegant gables and hearty fireplaces provide for an authentic farmstay experience, albeit in considerable luxury.

Fynbos Cottages, Babylonstoren

Another option is the estate’s lovely Fynbos Cottages, set well away from the celebrated eight acres of gardens and main buildings. These include one of the biggest underground cellars in South Africa, which is a special place to taste Babylonstoren’s range of wines. The hotel’s Babel restaurant has deservedly won a very good reputation, drawing almost exclusively on farm produce.

A twenty-minute drive from Babylonstoren takes you to the picture-postcard town and vineyards of Franschhoek. Accommodation options are numerous but the three places I stayed in made for a pleasing contrast.

The Rickety Bridge manor house, a refined old Cape Dutch building situated by the winery of the same name, has the sort of relaxing, ultra-comfy feel to it that makes you want to come back again. Paulina’s Restaurant at the winery is first-class, as are Rickety Bridge’s wines, notably The Pilgrimage Semillon from 1905 vines.

For sheer splendour and luxury, not to mention artwork, nothing beats La Residence. Tucked away in 30 acres of vines, olive groves and plum trees, this is one of the most opulent hotels not just in Franschhoek but the whole of South Africa.

The pool at La Residence

The eleven huge bedrooms in the main building, as well as five vineyard suites, were all designed individually by owner Liz Biden, who has furnished them with consummate taste. An avid art collector, she has hung paintings and works from 29 artists throughout the hotel.

With its dramatic mountain views, world-class cuisine and incomparable levels of comfort, this is a rock-star hotel. Indeed, Elton John regularly stays there, with a signed photo of him left in his favourite room.

Those looking for a charming hideaway in Franschhoek would do well to try Akademie Street Boutique Hotel, named after the quiet road it is located in, a short walk from the town centre. A heritage building and former guesthouse, it was bought by an Irishman, Paul Kinney, in 2014 and refurbished to a very high standard.

Its eight suites are popular with British visitors, while a romantic cottage attracts honeymooners. The sizeable and tastefully-furnished suites have wood-burning hot-tubs on wide balconies. The breakfast around the main pool was the best I had in the western Cape, and included irresistible smoothies and a 12-fruit plate.

For lovers of sushi, GlenWood serves some top-class fare at its winery restaurant, several kilometres west of the town. Its wines, made by DP Burger, are also excellent, and can be sampled either at the handsome cellar door or at the ‘Nature’s Window’ tasting-room high up the mountain, a 20-minute walk from the winery. The vistas from there are spectacular.

Surf near Grootbos

When it comes to the sea views across Walker Bay towards Cape Peninsula that Grootbos boasts, you run out of superlatives. This fabulous five-star lodge, set in a private nature reserve of 6,000 acres that is home to 800 plant species and three milkweed forests over 1,000 years old, is conveniently close to the wards of Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Elim, Napier and Stanford Foothills.

It is ideally situated to take in many wineries, but wine connoisseurs may not want to stray too far beyond its boundaries, for it has one of the finest cellars in South Africa. Owner Michael Lutzeyer has, over many years, stocked it with over 30,000 bottles from 50 top Cape producers, buying multiple cases of hard-to-obtain Cape Winemakers Guild wines. The cuisine at Grootbos matches the high quality of the wines, with the springbok shank being a personal favourite.

Grootbos lies half an hour east of Hermanus, where anyone wanting to explore the local wineries from a heavenly seaside base should stay at Birkenhead House. Perched on a promontory next door to Voelklip Beach, over which it has fine views, it contains eleven stylish rooms and is luxuriously open-plan. Its cuisine and wine list are both first-rate.

Birkenhead House

Tasty lunches also await visitors to the Sumaridge winery, which boasts gorgeous views from its restaurant down the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley to the sea. British owners, Holly and Simon Bellingham-Turner, have worked hard to give visitors a special experience, while their winemaker, Walter Pretorius, fashions a wide and impressive range. Sumaridge’s well-appointed estate lodge, which sleeps eight, is available for hire as a whole.

The view from Sumaridge

Just as Birkenhead House stands out as the most desirable place to stay in Hermanus, so does another boutique establishment in Robertson, in the beautiful Breede River Valley region. If it has an unusual name – the Robertson Small Hotel – that is only because it has ten rooms.

Tucked away down a quiet residential street, it is a converted manor house that is now a national monument. Everything about it oozes class, from the deluxe rooms to the bar, restaurant and gardens.

Although the scenic Robertson wine district is slightly off the beaten track, it enchants many who get there, containing not just well-known wineries such as Graham Beck, De Wetshof and Springfield but also some hidden gems.

While those big three offer enjoyable experiences for the wine tourist, and should not be missed, much smaller setups like Arendsig Handcrafted Wines, Kranskop and Kleinhoekkloof are a joy to visit.

The Arendsig winery’s location by the Breede River could hardly be more idyllic. Owner-winemaker Lourens van der Westhuizen, who offers choice cottage accommodation near the river, produces single vineyard labels of note. Newald Marais, the former Nederburg cellar master, also fashions appealing wines at his Kranskop farm, with his Tannat standing out.

Tasters can enjoy his range over a cheese platter on a deck with a great view of the Langeberg Mountains. Kleinhoekkloof, being the highest winery in the district at 420m, possesses even more panoramic vistas. Owner Theunis de Jongh is an engaging host, providing a tasty charcuterie platter from his farm pigs that goes well with his appetising wines.

This spirit of enterprise is widespread through the western Cape. Leading Stellenbosch producer De Toren have just completed a revamped drive-up facility at the winery, with booking recommended for their new one-hour tour that includes a walk through the vineyard, cellar, barrel and maturation rooms followed by a tasting of their exemplary wines.

Kevin Arnold, cellar master at another top Stellenbosch winery, Waterford, has started three-hour vineyard safaris through the estate’s 450 acres of vines in the majestic Blaauwklippen Valley. Two stops with tastings in prime spots are included.

The drives, which are limited to ten people, take place twice daily in a game-viewing 4×4 vehicle procured from a national park. Waterford’s example epitomises the imagination that the South African wine industry is employing to give wine tourists the best possible experience post-pandemic. Those who do get to the western Cape will be amply rewarded.