How Babylonstoren shows a way out of SA's gloom

Hotfooting it back from South Africa before quarantine came into effect, Geoffrey Dean reflects on his experiences there. One winery he visited, Babylonstoren, in the Simonsberg-Paarl ward, represented some hope amongst the troubles in the country. Throughout the pandemic the estate has managed to keep all of its 300 staff, and sales are up 20-30%, despite the lack of international visitors to its acclaimed gardens. Dean talks to cellar master Charl Coetzee about how they have achieved this.

By Geoffrey Dean February 22, 2021

While being painfully aware of Bruce Jack’s worrying concerns for the South African wine industry, poignantly articulated here for The Buyer in late January, I still found grounds for optimism in the country’s winelands after spending the first six weeks of the year there.

For a start, there is no water shortage, with all the dams being full, and fruit quality is very promising. While the harvest has been delayed for most producers – Klein Constantia reporting that this is the latest that they have started picking their Sauvignon Blanc – volume looks set to be in line with last year’s national crush of 1.37m tons.

Charl Coetzee: “We are all trying to push brand South Africa.”

Although no wine sales were legally permitted in South Africa between December 28 and February 1, exports were allowed, providing many producers with a lifeline that kept them afloat. Campaigns to buy South African wine in both the UK and USA were “hugely appreciated” according to Charl Coetzee, cellar master for Babylonstoren. 

Babylonstoren, which is situated in the Simonsberg-Paarl ward, is a winery with what might be termed a good news story amid all the doom and gloom of the pandemic. While fortunate to be able to export 55-60% of its total production and to be part of a wider estate that includes a five-star farm hotel, farm shop and celebrated gardens, it has not shed one member of its 300-strong staff. As a major employer in the Paarl district, it is a vital cog in the local socio-economic wheel.

Coetzee revealed how Babylonstoren had managed not to lay anyone off. “What we did was to redistribute our staff, even if they ended up doing something they were unfamiliar with,” he said. “For example, the ladies in the spa had to harvest our olive trees, which we normally get done by outside contractors who we haven’t used at all in the last year.”

Others were redirected to work in the eight acres of the much-visited gardens, which has over 300 varieties of plants, fruits and vegetables.  The entrance fee for it goes to the Babylonstoren Trust, which finances community projects for winery and farm workers’ children. This includes a learning centre for them, as well as meals and help with homework. The trust also provides support with school fees for older children as well as sporting equipment and transport.

Coetzee with some of Baylonstoren’s amphorae

Two alcohol sales bans in 2020 as well as the one in the first month of this year,  together with a fall in wine exports of nearly a third in both 2020 and 2019 on previous years, have left many South African wineries with excess stock. Coetzee revealed one leading Stellenbosch producer is not even harvesting this year as a result. For Babylonstoren, which fermented 710 tons of grapes last year, selling their wines has not been an issue.

“We’ve seen 20-30% growth year on year,” Coetzee declared. “This year, we will touch 800 tons. We’ve never sat with excess stock before – every year we’ve reached our growth target.  Take our most popular wine, our Mourvèdre Rosé: in 2011 when we started making it, we produced just 5,000 bottles. This year, we’ll do 120,000.”

Babylonstoren’s 2021 vintage was picked as the official Rosé of the Chelsea Flower Show. “We plan to launch it every May at the show, although it’ll be September this year as it’s being delayed due to Covid,” Coetzee said. “With its strawberry, rhubarb and watermelon flavours, it will still be suitable for late summer or autumn drinking.” 

While China is Babylonstoren’s number one overseas market, the UK and USA compete neck and neck for second spot. DTC business through The Newt in Somerset’s website is thriving, while on-trade marketing and sales is conducted by Stephen Field in Stevenage.

Wine tasting in Babylonstoren’s underground cavern

Coetzee is hoping that sales not just of the Rosé, but also the other nine labels, will increase to the UK. The capacity for expansion is certainly no issue after the recently-completed construction of one of the biggest subterranean cellars in South Africa, a stunningly-designed 100 x 30 metre cavern. “It is quite unique, and we want to be unique,” he said. “We use it not just for vinification and maturation but also for the guest experience. We have a food and wine pairing tasting there with all ten labels matched up. Soon, we’ll have an eleventh label with our super-premium Pinot Noir when we release our first vintage of it, the 2018.” 

Planted at 650m on the upper slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain, this has the potential to be one of South Africa’s best Pinots. With only 1600 bottles produced, it will be Babylonstoren’s most expensive wine, with a likely retail price of 1000 Rand (around £50). “We tried to make one in 2016 but the mountain burnt down and we got smoke taint,” Coetzee added. “The fruit in 2017 was not good enough, and ’18 was the first time we felt it was.”

Babylonstoren is one of eight wineries connected by the Franschhoek Wine Tram

A year or so on from Covid’s emergence, Coetzee reflected on its consequences. “We have lost the international visitors this summer, but at weekends we are packed with locals, and our farm shop is doing well. Income from that was all we had in the first lockdown. For most wineries in the western Cape, it is going to be very hard. A lot of places are rethinking their business model, launching alcohol-free free wines for example. People are looking at every avenue. We are all trying to push brand South Africa, and think our wines are as good as the French ones or any other country’s.”

Ciatti, the California-based global wine and grape brokers, returned a favourable verdict on South African wines in their February 2021 market report: “The lack of on-trade demand globally, and the paused domestic market in South Africa, has meant some high-quality Cape wines that normally go for bottling have been diverted into bulk instead, further boosting the quality of an already excellent 2020 vintage. Consequently, the Cape’s price-quality ratio is very impressive and should be of interest to European buyers seeking quality varietal wines for off-trade.”

Helped by the weakness of the Rand, Babylonstoren’s impressive range offers outstanding value for money to UK buyers. For full details and pricing, visit: www.thenewtinsomerset.com 

Ten top wines from 2020

South Africa & Australia dominate Geoffrey Dean’s Top 10 wines of 2020

As a former professional cricketer, wine expert Geoffrey Dean has been used to ‘rain stopping play’ on many an occasion. But, like the rest of us, he has never had to contend with Covid-19 sending everyone back into the pavilion. Before the pandemic prevented international travel, however, Dean visited South Africa and Australia where he made a number of key vinuous discoveries which he shares with us in his Top 10 wines of 2020.

By Geoffrey Dean December 31, 2020

“The Rolet family’s hard work and passion in reviving this estate near the old Roman town of Vaison-la-Romaine has been rewarded with what is now a formidable stable of wines,” writes Dean about Chêne Bleu.

Having been restricted by the pandemic to visiting just two countries outside the UK in 2020 – South Africa and Australia – I make no apologies for picking eight labels from there. Two wonderful French wines are also included, having been drunk at home. In alphabetical order, here they are.

Abingdon, Chardonnay 2018, 13.5% abv (Lions River, KZN, South Africa)

A South African winery with a difference – not from the western Cape but Kwazulu Natal and the hilly Midlands region. Situated at 1140m in the Lions River district north-west of Pietermaritzburg, the wines are jointly made by British expat, Ian Smorthwaite, and his daughter Laurie Cooper. Wife Jane is in charge of cuisine at the cellar door, which won South Africa’s ‘Best Kept Secret’ American Express award in 2019. Appealing citrus and white peach fruit stand out in this barrel-fermented Chardonnay that underwent 100% malolactic fermentation, giving buttered toast notes. The wine saw no new oak, and zings with refreshing acidity. From low-yielding vines (three and a half tons per hectare), it has a long finish and underlines how good KZN wine can be.

Château de Pommard, Simone 2018, 14% abv (Burgundy)

Already a great wine. From a tiny 0.53 hectare plot in the walled Clos Marey-Monge single vineyard, this truly remarkable Pommard sings like a canary and will give untold pleasure to those fortunate enough to drink it over the next couple of decades. Winemaker Emmanuel Sala is the first to admit he is lucky to have a terroir with the highest internal surface density of clay in the Côte d’Or (736m2/g) but he has crafted a masterpiece, employing whole cluster (75%) for the first time and 38% new oak with very, very light toasting. The result is a beautifully balanced Pinot Noir with freshness, grace, complexity, concentration and length but velvet-like tannins.

Chêne Bleu, Abelard 2012,  14% abv (Vaucluse, France).

A very classy wine made up of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah, this gorgeous blend from the southern Rhône has alluring clove, licorice and pepper notes on the nose with very appetising red plum and black cherry fruit on the palate. Blessed with very silky tannins, it has tremendous intensity of flavour with hints of spice and a long finish. All the wine’s elements are impeccably balanced. The Rolet family’s hard work and passion in reviving this estate near the old Roman town of Vaison-la-Romaine has been rewarded with what is now a formidable stable of wines.

Hoosegg, Jade Moon 2016, 13% abv (Orange, NSW, Australia)

This wackily-named winery is a newish venture from one of Australia’s best-known oenologists, Philip Shaw, who won IWSC Winemaker of the Year twice – in 1986 and 2000. The master vigneron has delegated his sons to produce Philip Shaw Wines, and is concentrating on his personal Hoosegg range. It comes from his Koomooloo Vineyard near Orange which, at 900m, is amongst Australia’s highest, leading to cool nights and good acid retention. Only four barrels of this exquisite ‘Jade Moon’ blend were made, with Cabernet Franc making up 88%, Merlot 7% and Cabernet Sauvignon 5%. Fresh, complex and long with seductive red fruit and soft tannins, this is a special wine that has effortlessly absorbed 100% new oak.

Lismore, Estate Reserve Syrah 2017, 13.5% abv (Greyton, South Africa)

Brilliant example of just how good South African Syrah can be. Made in the Greyton ward in the Overberg district by Samantha O’Keefe, whose vineyards, winery and house were so tragically devastated by bushfire in December 2019.  The courageous American producer is winning global plaudits for her wines, and this medium-bodied, supremely elegant Syrah is exceptional: glorious red fruit with marked intensity of flavour and freshness (pH 3.35). Fine tannins are seamlessly integrated and the finish is thrillingly long. Wild yeasts add complexity while a mix of 500 & 700-litre oak barrels (30% new) allow the fruit to show itself in its full glory.

Rickety Bridge, The Pilgrimage 2017, 12.5% abv (Franschhoek, South Africa)

The very essence of  Semillon from ancient low-yielding vines (three tons per hectare) that date back to 1905 on this historic Franschhoek property, owned by British entrepreneur, Duncan Spence. Whole bunch and wild yeasts help nurture a complex textured palate with beeswax, lanolin and melon notes; older barrels/foudres add some body and richness, while a low pH (3.2) ensures freshness is retained. Bone dry with a long savoury finish and a long life ahead of it, but hard to resist now.

Robert Stein Vineyards, Riesling 2019, 12% abv (Mudgee, NSW, Australia)

Mudgee is New South Wales’s oldest wine-producing region, and the Stein family’s forebears were early winemaking pioneers. Jacob Stein, whose ancestor of the same name emigrated to Mudgee from Germany in 1838, fashions a superb range, notably a top Riesling from 45-year old vines on gravel and schist soils at 500m. The site’s wide diurnal range encourages a low pH of 3, giving the wine formidable freshness. With lemon pith notes, an abv of 12% and a long finish, it is a delight to drink.

Stanton & Killeen, Grand Topaque, 18% abv (Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia)

Compellingly complex and uber-sweet Muscadelle (230g/l of residual sugar), fortified to 18% with high strength neutral grape spirit. Muscadelle was formerly known as Tokay by Rutherglen producers before they invented ‘Topaque’ due to objections by the Hungarians.  Aged oxidatively for 15-20 years, this concentrated and extremely long ‘sticky’, with its mouth-filling viscosity and depth of flavour, has a rich array of notes: toffee, caramelised butter, mixed spice, cloves, roast nuts and raisins, all topped off with marmalade overtones. A sumptuous festive tipple if ever there was one.

Vondeling, Philosophie 2015, 14.5% abv (Voor Paardeberg, South Africa)

This Bordeaux blend from the Voor Paardeberg ward near Paarl soars out of the glass with explosive structure. Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) with 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot and a dash of Malbec, this is full, awesome and complete. Careful 300-litre barrel selection (75% new oak) gives it structure but super-fine tannins are beautifully integrated. Black cherry and cassis fruit merges seamlessly with cedar and tobacco notes. Matthew Copeland, one of the best young winemakers in South Africa, and Julian Johnsen, the British-born viticulturist, have combined to produce an outstanding, rich wine with notable concentration and length.

Waterford, The Jem 2011 (Stellenbosch, South Africa)

As many as eight grapes go into this beguiling blend of Blaauwklippen Valley fruit, south of Stellenbosch. Cabernet Sauvignon (45%) is the majority varietal, while the other seven are Shiraz (15%), Cabernet Franc (14), Merlot (11), Mourvedre (6), Petit Verdot (4), Barbera (3) and Sangiovese (2). Named after Waterford’s owner, Jeremy Ord, who is known as Jem, the wine has a lovely combination of blackcurrant and red cherry fruit, with exotic spices, earthy tones and truffle notes. A hint of umami adds to the complexity of a wine that has impressive concentration and a very long finish. A pH of 3.63 helps retain freshness while judicious use of new oak (33%) adds structure. A majestic wine of real grandeur and class.

Ch de Pommard Simone 2018: like a sporting great

Times cricket correspondent and wine expert Geoffrey Dean knows a thing or two about sporting legends – he has met many during his playing and writing careers. Which is why, when he covered the launch of the new Château de Pommard Simone 2018 for The Buyer, he knew instinctively that he was in the presence of real greatness. Not the ‘fly-by-night’ kind – but one that is young now, will improve with age, and then keep getting better and better. Dean raves about the wine in the presence of Emmanuel Sala, the head winemaker at Château de Pommard.

by Geoffrey Dean

Sometimes, when wearing my sports writer’s hat, you instinctively know when you have been in the midst of greatness. Some of those performers I’ve written about that spring straight to mind are tennis’ Roger Federer, golf’s Tiger Woods and cricket’s Vivian Richards. And, putting on my wine writer’s hat, there is no doubt in my mind that Château de Pommard Simone 2018 is nothing less than a great wine.

Like the illustrious sporting trio above, all of whom got better and better for many years before they reached a plateau and gradually descended from it, Simone 2018 will continue to improve. It is, of course, still a youngster but with massive potential. One is almost loath to use the P word because it is so good already, but it has a long life ahead of it – another 10-15 years before it reaches its plateau – and will doubtless develop new qualities as it ages. 

Head winemaker Emmanuel Sala (left) and Ch de Pommard owner, Michael Baum, online tasting 2020

Right now, though, one can only extol its manifold current virtues. Quite dark in colour, it is already a delight to drink for, notwithstanding its power, it has fine, sensuous and beautifully integrated tannins that melt in the mouth behind a wall of seductive red and black fruit. Exotic spices, so apparent on the nose, dance on the mid-palate while vivacious freshness helps achieve wonderful harmony to the wine. Structure comes from highly judicious use of new oak (38%), which underwent ‘very very light toasting’ according to Emmanuel Sala, the head winemaker, who has achieved perfect balance in the wine, sitting at 13.6% abv as it does. 

To conclude, Simone 2018 is refined, complex, rich and ripe, yet exceptionally silky in texture; very long, concentrated and intensely flavoured but at the same time graceful and fresh. Above all, it has a feeling of being absolutely natural, a reflection perhaps of Chateau de Pommard’s biodynamically-farmed vineyards. Multi-layered, its finish lingers on and on. And as soon as you have drunk the first glass, you want a second. And then another. 

“This is our pride and joy of the estate – it comes from an amazing terroir that embodies the soul of Pommard’s domain,” Michael Baum, the American owner of Château de Pommard, said of Simone 2018, a 0.53 hectare plot within the 20-hectare walled Clos Marey-Monge (the largest monopole or single vineyard in the Côte d’Or). In 2018, Sala made only 1800 bottles of it – a low yield of 30 hl/ha, although it is normally even less productive (22 hl/ha in 2017 and a mere 16 hl/ha this year). The vines were planted in 1986.

Ch de Pommard

How Château de Pommard Simone 2018 is made in the vineyard

More on Sala’s vinification methods later, but all great wines are made in the vineyard, and the terroir is the secret to Simone. The key is the quality and internal surface density of the clay in the plot. Sala provided a detailed and fascinating insight on the subject.

 “If we look under the microscope at a soil containing true clays, that is to say from the decalcification of rock, we observe that these clays form a stack of small sheets, a little like a book, that are made of alumina silicates,” he said. “Cations (positively charged ions), retained between these sheets, are all very important elements in the diet of the vine, whether for its growth, flowering or maturity, and are essential to the manufacture of the components of the grape and in particular polyphenols.”

“Depending on their classification, not all clays retain these elements, nor water, in the same way. Some clays are very simple and others very complex. In the same amount of clay, say one gram, the number of sheets can be very different. The inner surface density of clay is therefore the surface, or ‘SI’, of all the sheets contained in one gram, expressed in m2/g.”

Carving at the 300 year old Château de Pommard that confirms Joseph Marey built the winemaking cellar in 1804.

Sala is a disciple of Claude Bourguignon, the well-known and much respected viticulturalist, who maintains that if soils have a larger internal surface density of clay, their capability to produce great red wines is significantly enhanced. The actual clay proportion in a soil is not a sufficient indication of whether it has great potential. In Burgundy, the majority of soils contain about 30% clay but they do not have the same internal surface density, which helps to explain big differences between the wines.

Sala recalled Bourguignon’s astonished reaction when checking Simone’s SI clay level for the first time. “I remember in 2009 I made a big study with Claude on all the Clos Marey-Monge plots, and when he was testing Simone, I was in the cellar doing the filtration. Claude came in and said ‘Manu, Manu come with me.’ I told him ‘I can’t I’m doing the filtration.’ But he insisted, so I went with him and he said, ‘Look at this – I’ve never seen a plot like this.’ 

Sala explained why: “The average internal surface density of clay in the Côte de Nuits is close to 500 m2/g, while on the Côte de Beaune, where the greatest white wines do not require high SI clay, it is 300 m2/g. The plots that had clays with the largest internal surfaces before our study were the Musigny and the Richebourg (660m2/g). Most of our plots in Clos Marey-Monge are around 400 m2/g but one of our plots, Chantrerie, is as high as 640-650 m2/g, and Simone, highest of all at 736 m2/g, constitutes a record for Bourguignon.

“Of course, the quality of the clays is not the only qualitative factor to produce great red wines – the limestone content, the exposure, the subsoil, everything matters. However, wines from soils containing clays with high SI show more depth, as well as quality of tannin, with silkiness that is remarkable. Also such multi-layered character, which can be found in the mouth only on very few wines.”

Sala (left) and Eric Pignal, assistant winemaker

Whole bunch, biodynamic farming and salivation

As far as vinification was concerned, Sala made one important change in 2018 that he thinks proved beneficial. Having destemmed all his fruit previously, he adopted 75% whole cluster. “It was the first time I used whole cluster,” he revealed. “Stems bring more structure, and although they lower acidity, they can add more freshness and complexity. I also opted for four and a half weeks of maceration to achieve the right balance of structure and elegance. But my biggest challenge in 2018 was to keep the freshness of the wine as we had a lack of acidity that year with a TA that was less than 4g/l and a higher than normal pH of 3.8. I never add acid as you destroy the natural balance of the wine.”

How then does Simone 2018 exhibit such freshness? “It’s a mystery of tasting … a less acidic wine that seems fresher!” Sala mused. “I think Simone’s freshness is mainly related to her slightly saline finish, which helps salivation. Despite a very high pH, a wine produced on a great terroir should not lack freshness. It is a relative freshness, which is not related to acidity, but rather resulting from an almost perfect natural balance. I am convinced that if you try to correct a wine to modify its natural balance, the freshness tends to disappear because you will lose some of the vibrations and energy that make you salivate. Salivation is the basis for tasting great wines, and if you taste technological wines, even very aromatic ones, you will find that they do not make you salivate. We at Château de Pommard are getting really good freshness in warm years, which is maybe a reflection of the biodynamic treatments of our vines.” 

While Sala oversees both viticulture and vinification, he is quick to praise his assistant winemaker, Eric Pignal, as well as Baum, who has invested heavily since buying the estate in 2014. To his credit, it was Baum, a hugely successful Silicon Valley entrepreneur, who hatched the idea of multiple labels from Clos Marey-Monge.  “Finally, this crazy Californian convinced this traditional authentic Burgundian we could bottle all these cuvees separately,” Baum recalled.  “In 2017, we did this, and today, we make eight different labels – the blend and the seven plots, Simone being the most special thing we do.”

Château de Pommard’s Simone 2018 has won multiple gongs at the 2020 Sommelier Wine Awards, the 2020 Global Pinot Noir Masters, the 2020 TEXSOM International Wine Awards and the International Wine Challenge 2020. Due for release in January 2021, it has an RRP of £360.

A memorable Loire Valley tasting

Despite all the problems that Covid-19 has created for the usual smooth running of the wine supply chain, there are huge efforts being made by generic and trade bodies to give producers and buyers as much of a chance as possible to still show, taste and select wines. This was typified last week with Business France’s Val de Loire Unlocked session that gave buyers and the press the chance to taste in person a selection of 70 AOC wines from producers looking for distribution in the UK. Geoffrey Dean was there for The Buyer to pick out his highlights.  

By Geoffrey Dean November 13, 2020

The Val de Loire’s bold and praiseworthy decision to go ahead with a walkabout tasting in central London in early November just before lockdown was rewarded by a strong turnout that included a number of prominent buyers. All the 24 producers whose wines were on show are looking for representation in the UK, and such was their overall quality and general value-for-money that many may succeed in their quest. They deserve to. 

Business France UK, supported by Food Loire and Dev’Up, did an outstanding job setting up and administering the tasting in Brettenham House, just off the Strand near Waterloo Bridge. Tasters were allotted a specified window over the course of the day, with no more than six in attendance in any one hour. No one failed to show up, according to the event masterminds, Pandora Mistry and Claire Prothon, senior marketing advisors for Business France UK.

Tasters were able to sample the full range of styles from the Loire – sparkling, dry, off-dry and sweet – with a lengthy list of red and white varietals featured along with some rosés. The tasting was carefully managed by Business France to both show a wide range of seeking distribution wines from the Loire but to do so in as Covid-safe environment as possible

For many of us, it was – the seated UGC de Bordeaux event in October apart – the first tasting of its kind since the initial springtime lockdown. It was, therefore, memorable, and many of the wines will live in the memory. Maybe it was the excitement of being back at a tasting again, but a clear theme of it was the sheer freshness of the wines. While Melon de Bourgogne, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc, as well potentially as Chardonnay, lean towards reliably high acidity levels, the winemakers still have to ensure they make balanced wines. Overridingly, they did here.

Single varietals 

As might be expected, there were also some appealing single varietal Sauvignon Blancs. Antoine de la Farge and Domaine Chavet were good ambassadors for Menetou-Salon, while Adèle Rouze and Domaine Ponroy flew the flag impressively for rustic Quincy and nearby Reuilly respectively. Domaine des Pierrettes, Domaine Octavie and and Earl Paris-Simoneau did the same for AOP Touraine.

As for Chenin Blanc, there were some terrific wines. Vignoble Vade, with its wacky, rather un-French label, produced a fine ‘Domaine St Vincent’ Saumur Blanc 2019 with honeyed notes and floral aroma; Domaine du Puy Davyeau’s L’Envol 2018 (AOP Anjou) oozed class, as did labels from Domaine de la Chataigneraie and Domaine Oudart.

Vade’s wacky label

Domaine de la Commanderie’s Médiévale Cabernet Franc 2018 (AOP Chinon), exported through Flodivins in the town of Sevremoine, was a classic example of the grape. Two Cab Franc specialists that also impressed were Joel Taluau & Thierry Foltzenlogel and Domaine Nau Frères, who each exhibited three different labels from AOC Saint Nicolas Bourgueuil and AOP Bourgueil. Domaine de la Belle Etoile’s AOP Anjou Brissac Village 2018 Cabernet Franc was another to show well, while the same producer made a very quaffable Rosé from Pineau d’Aunis and Gamay. The three other rosés exhibited were made from Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Cab Franc/Grolleau. 

Sparkling choice 

A raft of impressive sparkling wines were spearheaded by Maison Louis de Grenelle, a bubbly specialist based in Saumur. Their three non-vintage labels, all aged in tuffeau stone cellars, were a Crémant de Loire named ‘Louis Bio’ (a blend of organically-farmed Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Grolleau and Pinot Noir), and a pair of AOP Saumur sparklings: the Grande Cuvée white (Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay) and a 100% Cabernet Franc Rosé called ‘Corail.’ 

 Other sparkling producers to catch the eye were Domaine des Pierrettes (AOP Touraine) and Château d’Avrillé in Anjou (AOP Crémant de Loire). Three AOP Vouvray estates, Domaine de La Racauderie, Domaine du Clos de l’Epinay and Domaine de la Chataigneraie also stood out, the latter imaginatively labelling their Chenin Blanc fizz ‘Sparkling Bubbles Kiss.’

There were many good examples of lively, scented Muscadet from the Sèvre-et-Maine region, notably Domaine de la Potardiere, Domaine Delaunay and Jean Aubron.  Also making a good impression was Château de la Grange Barbastre in the newish Côtes de Grand Lieu (first recognised in 1994), which has the most maritime influence of all Muscadet regions. The Goulaine family has been making wine there since 1777, with Victor Goulaine having just taken over from his father Baudouin, who was vigneron for nearly 40 years. His IGP Val de Loire Chardonnay also showed well.

Perhaps, the most beguiling Muscadet was Vignoble Marchais’ Champtoceaux Côteaux de la Loire 2017 from schist and quartz soils in Thouaré that helped give it minerality. It was certainly a little leaner than riper Sèvre-et-Maine examples.

For unexpected variety, two producers showed approachable damson-fruited Malbecs from 2017 and 2018: Domaine Oudart, based in Mareuil, and Domaine des Pierrettes, situated in Rilly. Two other AOP Touraine domaines, Ponroy and Chavet, sent elegant 2019 Pinot Noirs over, while a third, Octavie, threw a light-bodied Gamay in from the same vintage.  

Half a dozen sweet or off-dry wines were available for tasting. Château de la Grange Barbastre’s Pinot Gris-Sauvignon IGP Val de Loire 2019 was an interesting blend for the latter style, while Domaine de La Racauderie and Domaine du Clos de l’Epinay went for 100% Chenin Blanc. Domaine de la Chataigneraie’s AOP Vouvray Saint-Georges Moelleux 2018, from botrytised Chenin, was a reminder of how sumptuous stickies from the Loire can be. It represented a fitting finale to a tasting for which the region must take huge credit.

A fascinating blend: Suntory's "Ao" whisky

How Suntory made its new Ao spirit from 5 distilleries around the world

Not one to shirk a challenge, Suntory decided to launch its new world travel retail brand Ao during a global pandemic, when international travel is at an all-time low. The spirit itself was also quite a feat, being a blend of whiskies from the five countries where Suntory owns distilleries – Scotland, Ireland, United States, Canada and Japan – with the concept behind it being a whisky that is all things to all whisky lovers the world over. How could it possibly succeed? Suntory’s Mike Miyamoto, whose brainchild Ao is, explained to Geoffrey Dean the thinking behind the brand which involved an ingenious tasting of different components to illustrate each country’s whisky brings to the party.

By Geoffrey Dean November 5, 2020

Despite the uncertain economic times, Beam Suntory, the oldest Japanese whisky producer, has boldly embarked on a worldwide launch of an innovative brand, Ao that is now available in global travel retail. A blend of whiskies from the five countries where Suntory owns distilleries – Scotland, Ireland, United States, Canada and Japan – Ao is the brainchild of their global brand ambassador, Mike Miyamoto, who has been involved in whisky production since 1978.

Suntory’s refreshing determination not to bow to Covid-inspired doom-and-gloom mongering fits in with their company motto, “Spirit of Bold Ambition” (‘Yatte Minahare” in Japanese). That motto dates back to 1923 when the company’s founder, Shinjiro Torii, built its first distillery at Yamazaki. His blending ability was passed down to his son and his grandson, Shinji Fukuyo, who is the current chief blender at Suntory. 

Suntory’s chief blender Shinji Fukuyo

The concept behind Ao, which was initially sold only in Japan from early 2019, was explained in a Zoom call by Miyamoto, a much respected figure in the whisky industry. “We wanted a whisky that brings the world together ‘as one’ through Japanese craftsmanship,” he said. “We called it Ao as that means ‘deep blue’ in Japanese, reflecting the oceans that link it. The bottle has five faces to represent the five countries.” The celebrated Japanese calligrapher, Ogino Tansetsu, designed the bottle’s fetching label.

Mike Miyamoto

The whole blending exercise was, Miyamoto admitted, a difficult and complicated exercise, taking as many as 100 trial blends before Fukuyo felt they had got it right. “We had four main challenges,” Miyamoto continued. “First, what should the flavour of the final product be? Secondly, how will each region perform within the blend? Thirdly, which component whiskies should be used to represent best each region’s characteristics as we had a choice of distilleries; and lastly, what is the availability of each component whisky, and how should that supply be managed? This was all very tricky for Shinji as he had to achieve harmony but some individuality, which was contradictory.”

To allow journalists best to understand the composition of Ao, Beam Suntory sent out five different samples of whisky to show what each region offered. What was imaginative was the fact each sample was the final Ao blend without one region’s component whisky. So sample 1 was the blend without Scotch, sample 2 was the blend without the Irish whisky, sample 3 was without the Bourbon, sample 4 was without the Canadian whisky and sample 5 without the Japanese. A sixth sample was the finished Ao blend.

The samples showed precisely what each region brought to the blend. Miyamoto’s commentary during the tasting was pertinent: “The one without the Scotch lacks a bit of smokiness and spiciness as well as some complexity,” he declared. “The Ardmore gives smokiness and the Glengarry spiciness, while both provide richness and depth of flavour, which is the role of Scotch. Sample 2 is a bit flat without that much kick, so the Irish whisky from our Cooley distillery also gives that depth of flavour and some complexity; the Bourbon from Jim Beam adds some bright aroma and some vanilla sweetness from the new American oak; the Canadian from the Alberta distillery adds some smoothness and sweetness; the Japanese components from our Yamazaki and Hakushu distilleries help round off any roughness, for the smokey malt from the latter is much softer than the Ardmore smokiness. So the role of the Japanese whisky is bringing together the parts into a whole. So it is a co-ordinator of perfect balance.”

What though of Ao itself? (RRP US$65 or €65). Miyamoto revealed that the five components were aged for between five and 18 years in Bourbon casks and sherry butts. The nose was bright with a top note of vanilla and pineapple-like fruitiness. A sweet, woody aroma with honey and cinnamon-like spiciness preceded a smooth and sweet mouthfeel with smoky, spicy and woody notes. Then came a very long, lingering finish with many layers of complexity. In short, a terrific whisky in complete harmony.

Ed Stening, Beam Suntory’s marketing manager, revealed more of the rationale behind Ao’s release. “We could have held this innovation back until well after the rebound,” he said, “but we feel it’s a great opportunity to throw some energy back into the travel retail channel and give some of the things we’ve all been going through over the last nine months a bit of a break. So we’re pretty excited to get this out. It’s in the UK and has just arrived at Dublin airport and JFK in New York. It’s also available in Canada, Australia, China, India, Dubai, Singapore and Hong Kong as well as European countries such as France, Germany, Netherlands and Turkey.” 

The 2018 vintage in Bordeaux

UGC tasting shows off the might of Bordeaux 2018 vintage

No elbows were needed at this year’s annual Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) tasting in London, and the Leoville Barton didn’t run out – the new tasting environment for the assessment of the Bordeaux 2018 vintage was seated, took five hours with 130 wines tasted. Our man at the tasting, Geoffrey Dean, selects the best wines, appellation by appellation as well as gets the views from 13 of the top châteaux owners on where lies the strengths and weaknesses of Bordeaux 2018.

By Geoffrey Dean

The annual October Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) tasting in London was like no other: not a single Bordeaux producer in attendance, and all tasters seated at individual tables so as to observe social distancing. It was, therefore, not the usual scrum, and with five hours allotted to taste the 130 wines on show, it was a great opportunity to get truly to grips with the 2018 vintage. Around half of the classed growths in the Medoc made their wines available although the percentage was a little higher for their Graves and Saint-Emilion counterparts.

Hailed as a great year by certain Bordelais, the wider consensus is that it has produced some outstanding and indeed exceptional wines, but not across the board. Climactic conditions ensured this, notably with white wines, both dry and sweet, which did not reach the heights of some of the reds. Parts of the Left Bank dazzled – notably Margaux and Saint-Julien – but it appears to have been more of a Right Bank year.

The magnificent setting of Church House, Westminster was the location for PR supremo Sue Glasgow’s last UGC tasting

What is undeniable is that weather conditions in 2018 were far from straightforward, with all sorts of extremes that both threatened and assisted quality grape production. Hailstorms in May and July caused damage, with a big one falling on the same day France won the football World Cup. A very wet winter was followed by a particularly damp spring, with rain lasting through till the latter half of June. This meant that one of the five conditions for a perfect red wine vintage, as laid down by the Oenological Research Unit from the Institute of Vine and Wine Science at Bordeaux University, could not be met: namely no significant rainfall after fruit set.

Downy mildew was a major problem throughout much of Bordeaux, with yields reduced accordingly. Christian Seely, general manager of Pauillac second growth Château Pichon Baron, admitted that “mildew pressure was so virulent that it was extraordinarily scary.” Organically or biodynamically farmed vineyards were especially badly hit, with Margaux third growth Château Palmer’s yield cut to a mere 11 hl/ha. By contrast, neighbouring estate Château Rauzan-Segla, which is conventionally farmed and could spray against downy mildew, produced 28 hl/ha (down from a normal yield of 40 hl/ha). Timings of sprayings were still crucial, with Seely declaring that being out by as little as two hours could prove too late.

Crucially, though, flowering, which began in late May under satisfactory conditions, was thankfully quick, ending within ten days with very little ‘coulure’ (where small berries fall off due to shrivelled stems). The timing was fortunate as rain then fell from 9-18 June before sunny weather arrived for most of the rest of the month.

Geoffrey Dean (in sleeveless jersey): “Parts of the Left Bank dazzled – notably Margaux and Saint-Julien – but it appears to have been more of a Right Bank year.”

What now made the vintage was wonderful sunny and dry weather from early July till late October, with above average sunshine hours and temperatures for that period. All the black grapes reached optimum ripeness and could be harvested at winemakers’ time of choosing with no risk of dilution or rot. Total acidity levels were not an issue thanks to the water reserves from the wet winter and spring. Patrick Maroteaux, whose family co-owns St-Julien fourth growth, Branaire-Ducru, declared that “the alcohol is one of the highest but the pH is one of the lowest.”

Etienne Charrier, technical director at Margaux fourth growth Château Prieuré-Lichine, said his pH was 3.69, with no need to correct it. Veronique Bonnie Laplane, owner of Graves estate Château Malartic-Lagraviere, revealed the pH for her reds was 3.50, while her whites came in at 3.22. The pH for Paulin Calvet’s whites at his Pessac-Leognan estate, Château Picque Caillou, were even lower at 3.10. Sufficiently low pH levels – so crucial to freshness – did not appear an issue therefore.

Those who considered this “un grand millésime” included Ludovic David, managing director of Margaux fourth growth, Château Marquis de Terme. “This is a great vintage of Bordeaux: one more – thank you global warming!” he told The Buyer. “The wine is rich and powerful because the berries had a very beautiful maturity. It is a more classic vintage than 2015, with more acidity; more powerful than 2016 and with perhaps more elegance. Difficult to say which is best because each vintage has its personality, but what connects all these wines is their quality and their balance. They are all of a very high level like the 2019 … and the 2020 that is coming.”

Likewise, Olivier Bernard, owner of leading Graves estate, Domaine de Chevalier, considers that his 2018s are the best he has made. Certainly, his white possessed vibrant acidity, layers of complexity with glorious concentration and length; and his stunning grand vin was similarly complex with gorgeous red and black fruit, sensuous tannins and a very long finish.

A general difference between the red 2018s and the much lauded 2016s is their higher sugar, and often higher alcohol levels, rendering them exuberant and almost untamed. By contrast, the 2016s are in a more classical mould. Bruno Borie, owner of Saint-Julien second growth Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, called 2018 “a revolutionary vintage that sets new standards.” His comparison of 2018 to the legendary years of 1945, 1961 and 1982 may reflect the notable Bordelais capacity to talk up the vintage.

Prominent Right Bank estates showed especially well, helped by the fact Merlot and Cabernet Franc reached optimum ripeness. Nicolas Audebert, managing director of one of the stars of the vintage, Château Canon in Saint-Emilion, declared pertinently: “We wanted to keep the freshness and limestone expression. We have to find that balance – we don’t want to lose that classic style but still follow the climate.”

Neighbouring Château Canon-La-Gaffelière, a certified organic estate, was another standout, leading Count Stephan von Neipperg, its general manager, to tell The Buyer: “We have a pretty perfect balance and freshness that becomes for me more and more important…..there’s energy in this wine. 2018 is a little between 2016 and 2015. It is less ‘easy’ than the 2015, but the tannins are more integrated than in the 2016.” Ronan Laborde, whose family own Château Clinet in Pomerol, said that 2018 “is a vintage that does not show off but has a lot of class.”

As far as the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac were concerned, the lack of botrytis until late in autumn militated against a memorable vintage. Seely revealed that only three tries were made at Château Suduiraut, yielding a tiny crop of 5 hl/ha. Its wine still shone out, along with those of Château Coutet, Château Sigalas Rabaud and Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey.

TOP 12 MEDOC

Brane-Cantenac

Branaire-Ducru

Lafon-Rochet

Langoa Barton

Léoville Barton

Léoville Poyferré

Lynch-Bages

Marquis de Terme

Pichon Baron

Pichon Longueville

Rauzan-Ségla

Talbot

TOP 10 GRAVES (red)

Carmes Haut-Brion

Domaine de Chevalier

Fieuzal

La Louvière

Latour-Martillac

Malartic-Lagravière

Olivier

Pape Clement

Picque Caillou

Smith Haut Lafitte

TOP 6 GRAVES (white)

Domaine de Chevalier

Fieuzal

Larrivet Haut-Brion

Pape Clement

Picque Caillou

Smith Haut Lafitte

TOP 12 SAINT-EMILION

Beau-Séjour Bécot

Canon

Canon-La-Gaffelière

Clos Fourtet

La Gaffelière

Larcis Ducasse

La Tour Figeac

Pavie Macquin

Troplong Mondot

Trottevielle

Valandraud

Villemaurine

TOP 6 POMEROL

Beauregard

Clinet

Gazin

La Croix de Gay

L’Evangile

Rouget

Care for Wild wines & saving the Rhino

Care for Wild range hopes to help rhinos & boost South African wine

You could probably make a team out of the number of former English cricketers who now have their own wine brands, but Darren Gough’s wine project is a little different. For a start his name does not appear on the label, and he does not claim to be involved in any part of the winemaking. But he 100% believes in what it stands for. As the the new Care for Wild wine range, launched last week by Freixenet Copestick, shares the name of the South African rhino sanctuary that Gough has been involved with since his playing days. Here Geoffrey Dean shares the story of how Care for Wild wine came about and how it hopes to boost sales of South African wine and help save and protect its endangered rhinos at the same time.

By Geoffrey Dean September 30, 2020

If you are looking for a South African wine brand with a point of difference then Frexienet Copestick’s new Care for Wild range – initially available through Slurp – hits the mark for so many reasons…

For much of his nine years in the England cricket team, Darren Gough was the heartbeat of the side, a man for whom the cliché – ‘he wore his heart on his sleeve’ – might have been written. As a passionate animal lover, particularly of rhinos, there could be no better brand ambassador for the appealing new South African range, Care for Wild, which was launched by Freixenet Copestick last week. Twenty per cent of profits from sales will go to the highly deserving rhino sanctuary of that name.

The passion Darren Gough has for the rhino sanctuary that will benefit from the new Care for Wild range shone through on last week’s Zoom launch

Gough was in the early stages of his international career in 1997 when he went to Kenya with England for an ICC tournament there. On a day off, he visited the Daphne Sheldrick animal orphanage in Nairobi, where he encountered orphaned elephants and rhinos. “I was there rolling in the mud with these babies, and there was this one young rhino who really took me by storm,” he said. “He was called Magnum. I took a real shine to him, so we adopted him and paid his way for a few years till he got released into the wild.”Not surprisingly, one of Gough’s nicknames became ‘Rhino’.

Chance meeting

Gough and his wife Anna’s love for rhinos led them to do volunteer work for Care for Wild, which was set up in 2001 two years before the cricketer’s international retirement by South African conservationist, Petronel Niewoudt.

By chance last December at a charity dinner Gough sat next to Robin Copestick, managing director of Freixinet Copestick. “Darren spoke of his involvement with Care for Wild, got me thinking,” said Copestick. “While I recognise that South African wine is amazing for quality and value, there isn’t really any brand that’s doing a brilliant job in the multiple retail sector. I saw an opportunity that could not only add value to the South African category, but also to raise money for such an amazing charity. We have big ambitions for the on-trade and the retail sector for the range.”

Copestick added that much will depend on whether he can get the multiples involved. Volume should not be an issue, for 5,000 cases of the two mid-market wines from Walker Bay (Syrah-Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blends) are available, while the three entry-level wines (Rosé, Pinotage/Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc) are also in plentiful supply. Only the two single varietal premium wines (Shiraz from Elgin, and Chenin Blanc from Swartland) are limited to a few hundred cases.

The Care for Wild range features rhinos who have been cared for by the sanctuary

Fast launch

It is certainly a notable achievement by Copestick and his team to have delivered the whole project only nine months after it was dreamt up. “In wine terms it is really quick, and I’m proud of everyone for doing that,” Copestick said. “Thanks go to Jodie Newman for designing the rhino labels which were beautifully done by the artist Paul Stowe. And huge thanks to Overhex – and winemaker Ben Snyman – who’ve put all of these wines together for us in very difficult circumstances. They did an incredible job to get them over.”

Stowe has drawn a young male white rhino, Arthur, on the labels for the mid-market wines, and a young black male, Odin, on the premium labels, ‘The Protected Collection.’ While only 20,000 whites are alive, mostly in South Africa, around 1,000 per annum have been poached in recent years in that country. Black rhinos are even more critically endangered, numbering only 5,000.

All the orphaned rhinos rescued to the Care for Wild sanctuary are dehorned under sedation to deter poachers but the sanctuary’s location is still a closely guarded secret.

Darren and his wife Anna were able to share their own experiences of visiting and getting involved in the Care for Wild rhino sanctuary during the Zoom launch

Darren and his wife Anna went out to South Africa five times last year to visit the sanctuary, and will go again shortly now that the ban on travel into the country is being lifted on October 1. “We’re so excited about going out there for the first time this year,” Anna said. “I’m so passionate about the charity. My passion has always been animals. The care and love that goes 24/7 into these orphans that are so traumatised is amazing. People think they don’t feel anything but they really do. Arthur put up a real fight when his mother was poached and he suffered machete wounds. They call him Arthur the Great as he’s a very special character.”

Darren and Anna visiting the sanctuary in October 2019

She added: “Petronel and her team rehabilitate orphans over four different phases before introducing them back into their natural habitat. Odin is one such. Even then, they’re monitored to check they are safe and stay healthy. Looking after the surrounding villages is so important as poachers will try every means to get at the rhinos in the orphanage, so the charity gives the villagers jobs and bursaries for their agriculture and farming.”

The sanctuary has been made possible by the personal commitment and drive of founder Petronel Niewoudt 

Gough admits he gets very emotional when he visits Care for Wild. “It is so rewarding when you leave there, knowing that you’ve helped,” he said. “You see the work that Petronel puts in every day. Five new orphans have come in recently and she lives with that rhino 24/7…it’s blindfolded initially to make it feel secure. There have been no volunteers since Covid, so they’ve had to lock in the staff, who’ve had to move their families into the sanctuary, to make sure those animals survive and get the best treatment.”

The Care for Wild team in action helping to rescue a baby rhino

Petronel’s devotion to helping save a species marks her out as a remarkable woman. “May I always be so humble as to recognise how little we started with and how far we have come,” she declared. “We now understand exactly what it takes to save an orphaned rhino calf. We appreciate the time, money, and effort to save a species from extinction. This is by no means a single person’s journey. It takes a team. We spend our energy wisely and share our experience and knowledge. Why? Why not? Is it not all of our responsibility to ensure a future for generations to come?”

• If you would like to donate to Care for Wild you can do so here. 

• You can also adopt a rhino and help its recovery by clicking here. 

• To find out how else you can get involved and all the work the sanctuary does then click here. 

Tasting Notes (introductory prices until October 4 through Slurp.co.uk) 

Care for Wild “Arthur” Pale Rosé, 12% abv, £9.95

Made from Pinotage from last two vintages, with a touch of Chenin Blanc to add extra acidity; dry, clean and fresh with some raspberry notes; 2 hours on skins – very light pink hue.

Care for Wild Sauvignon Blanc, 12.5% abv, £6.95

Plenty of tropical fruit and fresh acidity; a good non-vintage quaffer.

Care for Wild “Arthur” Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2020, 12.5% abv, £9.95

Tropical and citrus fruit from Walker Bay with mineral notes; lively acidity.

Care for Wild ‘Protected’ Bushvine Chenin Blanc, 2019, 13% abv, £15.95

Fruit from Swartland bushvines; apricot and peach notes; barrel-fermented giving some creaminess and richness; quite complex with very good length.

Care for Wild Red Blend, 13.5% abv, £6.95

Excellent value fruit-forward quaffer; fruit from two vintages – Pinotage with some Shiraz added; oak chips give some structure.

Care for Wild “Arthur” Syrah/Viognier 2019, 14% abv, £9.95

Grapes from Walker Bay with splash of Viognier (3%) to give some florally. Forest red fruits with soft tannins and hint of spice.

Care for Wild ‘Protected’ Shiraz, 2018, 14% abv, £15.95

Cool climate fruit from Elgin; peppery and spicey with velvety tannins; good combination of Rhone-style restraint and New World forwardness; very long finish. Will cellar well.

New South Wales Uncovered

Globetrotter Geoffrey Dean is back on the road, this time exploring the wine regions of New South Wales, from Semillon specialist the Hunter Valley to the high altitude region of Orange.

When the globe gets back to some sort of normality and travel becomes easier again, many wine tourists will doubtless return to old favourites, but for those keen to explore wine pastures new, one Australian state remains relatively undiscovered. Not the Northern Territory nor Queensland, but the country’s most populous state: New South Wales.

For, although the Hunter Valley has long attracted tens of thousands of visitors every year, other delightful regions, such as Orange, Mudgee and the southern Highlands, possess both the quality of wines, accommodation and restaurants to seduce the discerning patron. Throw in the likes of Canberra District, Tumbarumba, Hilltops, Shoalhaven Coast and Riverina, and you have a state wine circuit of genuine diversity and appeal.

The New South Wales coast

Officially there are 16 wine regions in New South Wales, many of which can be taken in individually from Sydney. The best option, though, for the wine tourist with both the time and a sense of adventure, is to fit a selection in as a part of a wide sweeping circular drive, lasting anything between several days and a fortnight or more.

The route which I followed, and would happily recommend, is to start by heading south from Sydney to Bowral and the Southern Highlands; then drive in a north-westerly direction via Goulburn to Orange; go north from there to Mudgee and thence to the Hunter Valley; and then circle back to Sydney via the winemakers’ holiday haunt of Port Stephens, a gem of a destination to relax at the end of a trip.

The Southern Highlands are cool climate, as the name suggests, although they resemble somewhere like the Cotswold Hills in England more than their Scottish namesake. Bowral and Mittagong are two lovely old historic towns to explore the region from, with the dozen or so local wineries within commuting distance.

At all of them, there won’t be much, if any, 2020 wines made owing to smoke taint from the bushfires, but plenty of back vintages are available for tasting. Joadja, the oldest winery in the region, having been established in 1983, is worth a visit, as is Artemis, which has a similarly relaxed cellar door atmosphere.

Centennial Vineyards is a more formal setup, with a smart restaurant and shop to complement its wide selection of good wines. The Tertini Wines cellar door should not be missed, housing what I thought the best and most interesting range of wines in the region. This includes not just Pinot Noir and Chardonnay but also Italian varieties like Arneis and Lagrein.

While the Southern Highlands wineries have the advantage of altitude – Tertini’s being at 675m – Orange boasts the highest vineyards in Australia: some over 1,000m, although winemaker David Lowe’s site, at Nullo near Mudgee, is as high as 1,100m. The resultant higher natural acidity levels, and with them greater freshness, are hallmarks of Orange’s wines along with minerality from volcanic soils.

Fruit quality is also exceptional, as is the cellar door experience, and when you add in the appeal of the beautifully laid-out town of Orange, with its many historic buildings, you have the ingredients for a most enjoyable stop-off of several days.

Most of the wineries are west of Orange, but one that should not be missed to the southeast is Patina, whose cellar door is open at weekends only. The stunning gardens there are well worth a stroll through.

Patina and its gardens

Owner-winemaker, Gerald Naef, who came to Australia from California in 1981, skilfully crafts a wide range with particularly good reserve Chardonnay and a signature Cabernet-Merlot blend named Jezza.

Naef is the first to admit he has learnt much from his good friend Philip Shaw, one of Australia’s most revered producers, having twice been IWSC’s International Winemaker of the Year (in 1986 and 2000). It is Shaw that has spearheaded Orange’s rise to premier league status as a wine region after he moved there permanently in 2004.

Philip Shaw, IWSC winemaker of the year in 1986 & 2000

Sons Daniel and Damian now run Philip Shaw Wines, whose cellar door offers delicious cuisine as well as a food-and-wine pairing tasting. Philip himself has branched off to make his own super-premium range called Hoosegg at his nearby Koomooloo Vineyard.

Tastings there are by appointment only but highly recommended, especially the exceptional Merlot blend (named Jade Moon) and outstanding Cabernet Franc blend (named Mountain Dragon).

Koomooloo Vineyard

Just down the road from Koomooloo Vineyard can be found the Heifer Station winery, which last year won the gold medal for tourism from Destination New South Wales. The farm there still has cattle but the owners planted 65 hectares of vines a decade ago and converted an old shearing shed into an atmospheric cellar door that has proved a huge hit since opening in 2016. “We want to ensure people don’t feel out of their depth in a wine sense,” the winery’s general manager, James Thomas, said.

“We have biking around the vineyard or in a golf cart. Apart from cheese platters or lunch at the cellar door, we also do private picnics in a romantic setting, which has led to nine marriage proposals.” Heifer Station’s wines also impressed, notably their sparkling Genisse 2015 (French for ‘heifer’) and Bull Paddock Chardonnay 2018.

Heifer Station

Another fine sparkling wine producer is Printhie, whose Swift Series of bubblies included a 2010 blanc de blancs that spent nine years on the lees. De Salis Wines are also top notch with magnificent views from their Lofty Vineyard (the highest in the Orange GI at 1050m).

The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from it make both superb sparkling and still wines in a range through which Charlie Svenson, owner-winemaker and most genial of hosts, takes visitors with passion and enthusiasm.

De Salis vineyards

No visit to Orange would be complete without a tasting at Bloodwood with Stephen Doyle. One of the pioneers of wine-making in the region, having established the winery in 1983, Doyle is one of New South Wales’ top producers with a wide range that includes Shiraz, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling. His wines are all very reasonably priced given their high quality.

Vines at Bloodwood

So too are James Sweetapple’s labels at Cargo Road Wines, from whose cellar door deck dramatic views can be had for 80km towards Nangar National Park. The engaging Sweetapple, nicknamed ‘Sweetiepie’ by his fellow winemakers, grows as many as 10 varieties, including Lagrein, Barbera and Nebbiolo.

Two other top Orange producers with welcoming cellar doors are Swinging Bridge and Ross Hill Wines. Tom Ward crafts excellent Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the former’s six hectares under vine, while Ross Hill’s new winemaker, Luke Steele, presides over a range that includes a fine Bordeaux blend named the Griffin and a single varietal Cabernet Franc.

As far as Orange accommodation is concerned, The Oriana is a good mid-price hotel that is ideally situated at the western end of town for easy access to and from the wineries.

Within walking distance is the best restaurant in town, Charred, whose tasty cuisine is complemented by a wide-ranging wine list featuring the best Australian labels as well as many top international ones.

From Orange, it is a leisurely scenic drive of a couple of hours or so via Bathurst to Mudgee, another of New South Wales’ prime wine-producing regions. It is also the oldest, dating back in 1822 when the Cox family from Britain planted vines. German emigres followed them, and one of their descendants, Jacob Stein, is making world-class Riesling at the Robert Stein Vineyard.

The Pumphouse at Robert Stein Vineyards

It is well worth a visit, for apart from the wines to taste, the winery also has an outstanding restaurant named the Pumphouse along with a motorbike museum that houses a collection of classic old bikes dating back to 1926. Other top Mudgee wineries include Logan Wines, Huntington Estate, Robert Oatley Vineyards and Lowe Wines.

The latter, with the forward-thinking David Lowe at the helm, produce some of Australia’s best Zinfandel, which probably explains why their acclaimed restaurant is named the Zin House. Lowe’s wife, Kim Currie, produces delicious cuisine from their biodynamically-farmed Tinja property, over which the restaurant has glorious views.

Forgandenny House, Mudgee

A lovely place to stay in Mudgee is Forgandenny House, a historic B&B in overlooking Lawson Park and Cudgegong River. From there, it is an easy stroll along the river into the town centre. Named after a village in near Perth in Scotland, whence the current owners’ ancestors came, Forgandenny has three double bedrooms as well as a self-contained cottage for six.

Possessing its own tennis court within pretty gardens, and with a 50-metre Olympic pool in the park opposite, it has excellent amenities. Moreover, the Forgandenny breakfasts are legendary for their size and quality.

The Hunter Valley specialises in Semillon

From Mudgee, it is a two-hour drive to the town of Pokolbin and the Hunter Valley, New South Wales’ best-known wine region. Of the umpteen wineries of note there, those not to miss include Brokenwood, Mt Pleasant, Tyrrell’s, McGuigan Wines, Audrey Wilkinson and Pepper Tree. All produce superb examples of the Hunter’s signature white grape, Semillon, which is picked early to preserve acidity and keep abv levels low, typically 11%.

Hunter Semillon is renowned for ageing beautifully with honeyed toast notes, and wonderful old library stock is generally available for tasting and purchase at wineries. Some highlights tried were Brokenwood’s Trevena Vineyard 2014. Tyrrell’s HVD 2014, from 110-year old vines, and Audrey Wilkinson’s The Ridge 2011.

Sunset at Tyrrell’s

Hunter Shiraz is very different to its Barossa counterparts, being much more medium-bodied than many of the South Australian big bruisers. Brokenwood’s iconic Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz 2017 showed especially well, as did Audrey Wilkinson’s the Lake Shiraz 2017 and Pepper Tree’s Single Vineyard Reserve Coquun Shiraz 2017 – Coquun being the Aboriginal name for Hunter Valley.

One other Hunter winery, Lake’s Folly, that specialises in Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon must be highly commended. Rodney Kempe crafts special examples of both, although the latter also has small amounts of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Shiraz blended in. Tasting at the atmospheric cellar door is strictly by appointment, but very worthwhile, with Kempe the most engaging of hosts.

While the Hunter has a selection of places to stay, Spicer’s Guesthouse is an outstanding option, offering five-star accommodation in a relaxing location. Its excellent Eremo restaurant does contemporary Italian cuisine. ‘Leaves and Fishes’, which focuses on seafood with an Asian kick, is a scenic place for lunch, while the cosy EXP Restaurant has consistently won plaudits for its dinners. Binnorrie Dairy, which is open for visits, is a must for cheese lovers.

Quad biking on Port Stephens’ sand dunes

Many Hunter Valley winemakers have holiday homes in Port Stephens, an hour’s drive away on the coast and a ‘must’ stop-off on the way back to Sydney. A whole range of things to do and see there can be found, including quad-biking through the biggest range of coastal sand dunes in the southern hemisphere (sanddunesadventures.com.au), dolphin-spotting cruises (moonshadow-tqc.com.au) and a new koala sanctuary, opening late September 2020  (portstephenskoalasanctuary.com.au).

For world-class seafood cuisine as well as a superb wine list, there is the Rick Stein restaurant at the Bannisters hotel, which is a good place to stay.  Culinary delights also await visitors to the Little Beach Boathouse and the Shoal Bay Country Club.

Rick Stein at Bannisters

All the ingredients for a boom in wine tourism in New South Wales, therefore, are in place. If it has remained something of a secret, that should change when travel eventually returns to former levels. The state’s sheer size means there will always be unexplored pockets, but there will be no better time to go than during the 2021-2 Ashes series, or the run-up to the Twenty20 Cricket World Cup in Australia, rearranged for autumn 2022.

For more information, go to: www.visitnsw.com

A Miraculous Recovery from Coronavirus

Sister of England cricketing great Tony Greig salutes hospital staff after five-week stay in ICU

Geoffrey Dean

Saturday May 30 2020, The Times

The sister of the late England cricket captain Tony Greig has recovered from Covid-19 after spending five weeks on a ventilator. Sally Ann Hodson, 66, who was in an induced coma for most of her hospital stay, will be released today after initially being given a 20 per cent chance of survival by doctors.

Sally Ann Hodson with her brother Tony Greig

Mrs Hodson, who has been using a Zimmer frame to take tentative steps around the ward at Pinderfields Hospital in Wakefield, Yorkshire, has been christened the “walking miracle” by nurses.

“I was longer in ICU than most, and on tracheotomy and life support for nearly six weeks, whereas most do no more than four,” she said. “I’ve just been blessed and very, very lucky. It’s beyond nursing what they provide for people like us. Every time anyone walked past — whether it was a cleaner, a tea lady, a nurse — they would kneel beside me and say ‘Come on, hold my hand.’ The little lady who showers me, Alison . . . she’s just fantastic. They are just the most incredible people at Pinderfields: I’ve never seen one nurse here lose their temper and they have a wonderful sense of humour.”

For Mrs Hodson, who has not seen her husband or two sons since being admitted on April 6, the past week has been emotional with messages and calls flooding in. “After my brother Tony’s daughter, Samantha, rang yesterday from Australia, I put the phone down and started to think I’m 66, and Tony died at 66. It really upset me.”

Referring to her brother’s death in December 2012 after a diagnosis of lung cancer, she said: “Knowing what it’s like to fight for your breath, what he must have gone through, I started to sob, and every time I stopped and said my prayers, I started again. I was spared and I’ve lived. My mother was 98, but I can’t believe I’m the same age that Tony died at, but there but for the grace of God go I.”

Sally Ann pictured after five weeks on a ventilator

Giles Toogood, of St James’s University Hospital in Leeds, sent an email at the weekend to Mrs Hodson’s husband, Phillip, a former president of Marylebone Cricket Club, in which he wrote that he feared last month that “it was not going to end well” but did not want to tell him at the time.

Professor Toogood said: “It’s amazing, quite amazing after 54 days in hospital, most of it in an ICU. I have a thing that if patients’ kidneys keep working, then they go home. As soon as you get multi-organ failure, you’re in deep trouble.”

The days after Mrs Hodson came round from her induced coma were far from straightforward. “When I sat up for first time, I had 30 minutes of the worst dizziness and sickness as I’d been lying flat for six weeks,” she said. “I didn’t realise when I came round that I wouldn’t be able to walk — initially I couldn’t move my legs, never mind my arms.

“The first time they helped me up and put my legs over the side of the bed, I could hardly breathe and I had this terrible nausea attack. That happened every day for seven days, but now it doesn’t happen at all.”

Sally Ann, second left, with her brothers Tony and Ian; their mother Joycie, and sister Molly

Happily, Mrs Hodson has been told that she will eventually recover all her physical capabilities in time. “I’m one of the few who’s recovered from my journey,” she said. “There’s no medication on discharge — just painkillers [paracetamol] as I’ve got a sore back from lying in bed and have quite a few headaches. I get a sleeping pill and a special liquid just to keep you calm. I have injections for clots and have been on quinine.

“I’ll be in isolation when I go home, although I can see family and will have a carer to help me manoeuvre. They don’t want me to have visitors — even the physio will wear a mask and gloves.”

Ahead lies a period of recuperation that is likely to stretch to 12 months. But as Mrs Hodson reflected, “a year out of my life after such a close shave is nothing — I’ve got lots to live for.” Already, she is looking forward to the birth of another grandchild in November, and a life beyond thanks to the efforts of outstanding medics.

'Super Rhone' Chene Bleu's latest releases

Why for Chêne Bleu it is the best of times and the worst of times

Getting the UK’s first taste of the new wines from Chêne Bleu would normally be an occasion for unbridled joy, especially with the Southern Rhône estate having just won the 2020 Terre de Vins trophy for best wine tourism in  France. But Geoffrey Dean hears first hand from owner Nicole Rolet of the stark reality that small wineries face during Lockdown and coming into the recession that awaits – and all that she and her winery are doing to help those most in need in the hospitality sector.

By Geoffrey Dean May 12, 2020

The new vintages ‘Héloïse’ 2012, Abelard 2012 and Viognier 2016 are tasted alongside a selection of other Chêne Bleu back vintages.

Lovers of Chêne Bleu’s wines, as well as wine tourists who have visited the stunning estate near the old Roman town of Vaison-La-Romaine in the southern Rhône, will be heartened by twin pieces of good news in these most trying of times. First, The Buyer can reveal that the IGP Vaucluse winery’s latest releases – the 2012 reds and 2016 Viognier – are showing outstandingly well; secondly, Chêne Bleu has just won a prestigious oenotourism trophy from French magazine ‘Terre de Vins’ – namely the Grand Prix d’Or Restoration dans le Vignoble ‘Bistronomique.’

The La Verrière estate

More on the award later, as well as the trials and tribulations facing Chêne Bleu under lockdown, but first the wines, which are available in the UK from Justerini & Brooks and in California from Wilson Daniels. The Rolet family, who in the mid-1990s acquired the estate, known as La Verrière after its medieval glass-making tradition, initially sold their grapes to the local co-operative before deciding to make their own labels in 2006.

Because Chêne Bleu did not want to take any chances with other wineries’ used barrels, they opted for 100% new oak in their first vintage, followed by 50% new and 50% second fill in 2007, and 33% new, 33% second fill and 33% third fill thereafter. Feeling that the wines needed time for their tannins to bed in, they held back release. Hence the fact that the 2012 reds are the newest release.

The new vintages

Detailed tasting notes of several vintages follow this piece, but it was noticeable how effortlessly well the 2012 reds had absorbed the new French oak. The ‘Héloïse’ 2012 (65% Syrah, 31% Grenache and 4% Roussanne), possessed quite overt but very fine, refined tannins that gave it impressive structure; the ‘Abelard’ 2012 (85% Grenache, 15% Syrah) had silkier tannins with sumptious red plum and cherry fruit. Both wines spent 18 months in barrel, were 14% abv and had a pH of 3.6, with an exquisitely weighted balance between tannins, acidity, fruit and alcohol.

Until 2011, the Héloïse contained no Roussanne, but that year it was added in place of Viognier at the behest of winemaker, Jean-Louis Gallucci, brother-in-law of Xavier and Nicole Rolet, co-owners of Chêne Bleu.

Nicole Rolet

“It was a big departure for us,” Nicole told The Buyer. “The original decision to blend Viognier was very controversial as that’s classically a northern Rhône style. But we thought if we have a high micro-terroir elevation [530-550m] and good levels of acidity with it, as well as perfumes that are elegant rather than over the top, then maybe it’s a good idea to blend Viognier. We were very pleased with the result and that’s one of the reasons we stepped out of the appellation, and made wines we felt were a better reflection of our terroir. But Jean-Louis was very intrigued with Roussanne, and it was his idea. I was initially resistant to it as liked Héloïse as it was, but the Roussanne brings two benefits: we feel it adds to the pretty perfume on the nose and makes our Syrah a bit more feminine and appealing. I also love how it fleshes out Héloïse and gives it a bit more texture, adding to the voluptuousness of the wine.”

Chêne Bleu’s Viognier 2016 is a classy wine, oozing elegance and harmony. Barrel-fermented, it has a hint of oiliness and some pears-in-syrup richness, but apricot and peach notes on the palate provide attractive fruit.At 13% abv, the alcohol has been kept in check for a grape naturally high in it, and there is enough fresh acidity to balance the wine neatly. In short, a lovely example of Viognier.

How Chêne Bleu is coping with the lockdown 

“Jean-Louis and his wife Benedicte [Chêne Bleu’s viticulturalist] are at the property and trying to hold down the fort along with their son Hugo,” Nicole said. “They have very specific instructions as how to do work on the estate, social distancing and keeping everyone safe. A lot of people rely on Romanians and other Europeans at this time of year as there’s so much to do in the vineyards. These people, of course, are home with their families in whatever countries, so there’s really no one around to do the work. So it’s quite tricky.”

“I think small wineries are set to be whacked because they have very high fixed costs with no flexibility on production or labour costs. In France, you can’t furlough anyone in agricultural production, which includes wine. In a small company you have staff that are either your family or they’re like family, so you’re not going to be hard-nosed about saving the company finances at the expense of the people that make your company work. You’re going to do what’s right for your staff.”

“On the marketing and sales side, the cheques for a lot of the big ticket items like trade fairs have already been written, with no chance of getting the money back. So I think I speak on behalf of all small winemakers when I say it’s really not possible to lay low in terms of cashflow expenditures, which are pretty inflexible. Meanwhile, a small winery depends or over-depends on sommeliers and middle men talking about their wines, recommending them and getting people to buy them. The big wine companies all sell to supermarkets, whose sales have gone up 30-40%, but the little guys don’t really have access to them. And if you’re a small producer and you make high-end wine, you come straight into the jaws into one of the worst recessions for 100 years. I’ve done the scenarios for small wineries, and unfortunately I don’t think it’s looking good.”

To their great credit, Chêne Bleu have been contributing to charities who support restaurants and their workers. “Those are the people we know are first in line to be hit, and we need to be looking after them,” Nicole continued. “In the USA, there are no safety nets… it’s a shocking sign when many sommeliers there don’t have enough money for food. The first thing was trying to figure out the best charities that would deliver on promises, so we did quite a bit of research for the US, UK and France as to how to support people.”

“In USA, we donated to the Restaurant Workers Community Foundation, which has no admin fees with 100% of the money going to those who need it – half to the restaurants and their owners and half to their workers, including immigrants who don’t have papers to qualify for benefits. In the UK, after asking around the trade, we were directed to the London-based Hospitality Action, which has a good reputation and has been around for a long time. In France, it’s less part of the culture and harder to find somewhere that’s been already set up. So we have a helpline every Monday where any member of trade can call in and talk with colleagues about any problems; and every Wednesday, at the winery, we have a weekly charcuterie happy hour gathering, which we’ve transposed online.”

Having personally experienced Chêne Bleu’s superb cuisine at La Verrière, it was no surprise to hear of Terre de Vins’ wine tourism award with its emphasis on food. “Our chef is so good, and sources ingredients very carefully,” Nicole declared. “He’s worked in Japan and Canada, and is bringing a bit of Japanese fusion. We’ve put a lot of effort into our tasting-room as we’re off the beaten path and want it to be a fantastic experience for people when they come. We treat people very well as we’re very happy they’re there. We try to punch above our weight and compensate for the handicaps of being in a lesser-known region and off the beaten path.”

“It’s great for the Ventoux region long-term as you get a lot of people around the world seeking out these little micro-terroirs with really exciting soils and micro-climates that require big investment of sweat equity but not a big investment financially. For you can still buy land for a very reasonable price in Ventoux compared to so many of the well-branded and established neighbours like Gigondas where the real estate prices have gone through the roof. A willingness to experiment and innovate gives you more long-term upside potential than if you want to sing from everyone’s else’s hymn book.”

So how are the Chêne Bleu wines tasting?

Abelard 2012 (85% Grenache, 15% Syrah; 14% abv): clove, licorice & pepper on the nose; red plum & red/black cherry fruit; very silky tannins; tremendous intensity of flavour; long finish with hints of spice.

Héloïse 2012 (65% Syrah, 31% Grenache, 4% Roussanne; 14% abv): truffle notes on the nose with hints of violet; red and black fruit on the palate with powerful, well-integrated tannins; notable concentration and very lengthy finish.

Abelard 2011 (85% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% abv): strong tannic backbone but beautifully integrated and silky; black cherry and plum notes with some fine spice; marked intensity of flavour and finish; balance not an issue despite 15% abv.

Héloïse 2011 (65% Syrah, 31% Grenache, 4% Roussanne; 15% abv): deep garnet with coffee, mocha and truffle on nose; black fruit and spice on palate; voluptuous texture with refined tannins; particularly long.

Abelard 2007 (90% Grenache, 10% Syrah; 15% abv): deep ruby colour with spicy garrigue nose; red fruit with some black cherries; silky tannins; complex wine with clear intensity and real concentration. Long persistence.

Héloïse 2007 (60% Syrah, 37% Grenache, 3% Viognier; 14.5% abv): deep ruby with floral sweet spice nose; red and black fruit merge seamlessly; rich with velvety tannins; wonderful concentration and lingering finish.

Aliot 2014 (65% Roussanne, 30% Grenache blanc, 4% Marsanne, 1% Viognier; 13% abv): golden yellow after 8 months in demi-muids; toasted almonds, brioche and honey on nose; rich, citrussy fruit yet freshness from low pH (3.3). Hints of minerality. Rich with persistent finish. 

Viognier 2016 (13% abv): apricot and almond aromas; peach, pear and brioche notes; richness from barrel fermentation (seven months in demi-muids); quite fresh acidity; lovely concentration & lengthy finish.

Rosé 2019 (60% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 12% Rolle, 8% Mourvedre, 5% Cinsault; 14% abv): pale pink, bone dry; hints of red fruit with elegance and freshness. Satisfying length.