Location, location – Neil Ellis and the importance of site in Stellenbosch

The wines of Neil Ellis are highly regarded by his peers and those buyers in the know. Jonkershoek Valley Cabernet is considered to be one of South Africa’s finest examples and the Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon and Whitehall Chardonnay continue to wow sommeliers and key wine buyers whenever they are shown the wines, writes Geoffrey Dean. Neil Ellis’ son Warren was in London to launch the new vintages and explained to Dean how the quality is driven almost entirely about where in Stellenbosch the vines sit.

26th June 2024 by Geoffrey Dean

Ask South African winemakers which wineries they think make the country’s best Cabernet Sauvignons, and one name keeps cropping up: Neil Ellis Wines. It is no surprise, for the Stellenbosch producer’s Jonkershoek Valley Cabernet is a South African classic - consistently excellent, if not outstanding. Neil Ellis, who turns 71 this year, set the standard some years ago, but his son Warren, who has taken over the winemaking reins, is maintaining the bar at a neck-craning height.

The latest release to the British market - through the winery’s UK importers González Byass - is the 2018 vintage and another superb wine. So too is the second label Neil Ellis Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, while the Neil Ellis Whitehall Chardonnay 2021, whose fruit comes from the cooler Elgin district, is a fine example of how good South African versions of the varietal can be.

First though, the Cabernet from the Jonkershoek Valley, which is one of eight wards, or sub-appellations, within the Stellenbosch district. As such, it is prime Cabernet territory, producing much sought-after fruit. And Neil Ellis has some of the very best sites.

“We have just over three hectares planted to Cabernet there,” Warren Ellis said, “although our shareholders also have another seven of Cab on their property. But we’re pulling all theirs up and replanting to get the row direction right.”

What makes the Jonkershoek so special?

“It’s difficult to explain as I’m thinking Afrikaans and I need to translate,” Ellis continued. “It’s a vineyard on a southern slope but it’s got a bit of a hill which also has a western aspect. We get very late morning sun, and actually that is the warmest. At the beginning of the day, the grapes get direct contact, and you get a lot of heat onto the berries, and as the day heats up, the temperature actually stays,” Ellis says.

“If you have the direct sunlight contact early in day, the berries will heat up to say 35 even 40° Celsius and then, as the sun moves over, that temperature stays at 35, but in a valley like Jonkershoek with the sun coming over the mountains quite late, you don't have that direct sunlight. So what we really have is that diffused sunlight. Then it goes over into the afternoon sun, and even then we have some other hills that also protect it from direct sunlight – the opposing Stellenbosch Mountain.”

Apart from protection from the hottest rays of the sun, the Jonkershoek also benefits from favourable winds and soil composition as well as the River Eerste, which has a positive impact. “We have the south-easter howling through the valley, which naturally contains the vigour,” Ellis said. “When it stops blowing, and the westerly winds come in, the vines are cooled. Also with the south-easter, especially during flowering, our advantage is that we get really nice loose, smaller berries. If you go down to the soil, we have a lot of Table Mountain sandstone and granite. With the granite, we have very good drainage and with that also comes the smaller berries and more intense flavours. It’s good for the tannin development too. And also what helps in that valley if the south-easter isn’t blowing is the Eerste River, which flows through there with a cooling effect coming up from the water into the vineyards.”

The majority of the fruit for the Neil Ellis Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 comes from another Stellenbosch ward - Bottelary (and its decomposed granite soils), and the balance from the Jonkershoek Valley sites. “2019 was a difficult vintage as we had rain towards the end of the season,” Ellis recalled. “We waited two weeks till after the rain before picking to get rid of that dilution. There were warm days but cool evenings….so good acid retention.” However tricky a vintage it was, Ellis has crafted a really expressive Cabernet, given colour and freshness by 12% Petit Verdot. After 80% new oak in the 2018, there is 25% in the 2019 - part of a deliberate ploy to cut back on it.

The Neil Ellis Whitehall Chardonnay 2021 is another impressive wine that, for me, sits comfortably in the premier league of South African labels for that varietal. “We’re aiming it at the on-trade generally as well as a few indies,” Melissa Draycott, managing director of Gonzalez Byass, said. “We work with a few 5-star hotels and will be showing this wine and other Neil Ellis labels such as Sauvignon, Syrah and Cab-Merlot to them. It’s still early days with them but we’re looking to increase volume. These are all premium level, and it’s a question of getting them in front of sommeliers. Once they see them, they're wowed by them. We’re still educating consumers what South Africa is capable of.”

Currently, the UK is not among Neil Ellis’ top five overseas markets, sitting behind the likes of the US, Germany, Belgium and Denmark. Draycott is keen to change that, however, for the volume is available with only around 50% of the winery’s production being exported. Warren Ellis confirmed there is also the potential for growth in output for one of South Africa’s most venerable producers. Though meant to have retired, Neil Ellis is still working, and ‘too hard’, according to Warren. “He’s still on it,” Draycott mused. Just like the wines.

How the wines tasted

Neil Ellis Jonkershoek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, 14.5% abv

Jonkershoek fruit is renowned for both power and elegance, and this has both. Cedary and herbal aromas, also typical of the valley, with cassis, blueberry and blackberry notes on the palate. Dense but fine-boned tannins with impressive structure from 100% new oak, which is effortlessly absorbed. Fresh acidity ensures harmonious balance. Tremendous fruit concentration with notable length. Clear cellaring potential, if you can resist it now.

Neil Ellis Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, 14% abv

86% Cabernet, 12% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec. 18 months in 25% new oak, with the balance second, third and fourth fill. Firm but well-integrated, approachable tannins provide structure. Bright acidity and very generous red and black fruit, with cedar and liquorice notes. Another wine that will age well, but a delight now.

Neil Ellis Whitehall Chardonnay 2021, 12.7% abv

Nectarine, pear and lime notes in this vibrantly fresh Chardonnay (pH3.28, TA6.8g/l) with some flinty minerality. 20-year old vines, partial malolactic fermentation (20%). Judicious oak use - fermentation in barrel, nine months in Burgundian 228-litre pièces (30% new, the rest second and third fill). Lovely concentration, yet graceful and refined with perfect balance and a long finish.

Neil Ellis wines are imported and sold in the UK by González Byass.