How green credentials shone at Hatch Mansfield portfolio tasting
The legacy of Hatch Mansfield co-founder Philip Tuck MW was everywhere to be seen at this autumn’s portfolio tasting, not only in the diversity and quality of the portfolio but also in its focus on the winemakers’ ‘green approach’ to their craft. The Buyer’s Geoffrey Dean gets a feel of the key issues in the room and picks 10 wines that he would recommend for on-trade from the likes of Esporão, Cherubino, Kleine Zalze and Esk Valley.
October 17, 2023
Now in its 30th year of existence, Hatch Mansfield staged a memorable autumn tasting in late September at the Institute of Directors in London but in the sad absence of one of its nine co-founders. The tragic death in July at the age of 59 of Philip Tuck MW, the importer’s wine director, will long be felt.
Hatch’s CEO, Patrick McGrath, his fellow MW and co-founder, paid tribute: “Philip played a huge role in the growth of Hatch, working tirelessly to develop the sales and distribution of our wines across the many varied sectors of the trade. He was an immensely kind, loyal and considerate man with that rare ability to laugh at himself. His mischievous grin will forever remain etched in our memories.”
The late Philip Tuck MW
Tuck has left a large hole to fill but his legacy lives on in the form of a formidable stable of brands from around the world. Topically, given the increasingly pressing issue of climate change, every one of them embrace a ‘green approach’ and, in the tasting booklet, each producer detailed it ahead of their listed wines. This ranges from biodynamic and organic farming to HVE and other environmental practices.
Among the frontrunners are the Rhône house M.CHAPOUTIER, with 266 hectares out of 467 certified biodynamic – the balance being farmed organically. In the Loire, Joseph Mellot (which holds both the HVE level 3 and BRC certifications) was the first French vineyard to join the 10:10 climate change campaign (to cut carbon emissions by 10% in 2010); in Burgundy, all Louis Jadot vineyards have been HVE3 certified since 2019. Meanwhile, Taittinger has been accredited with the ‘Viticulture Durable en Champagne’ sustainability badge.
Away from France, C.V.N.E was the first wine company in Spain to achieve the double environmental footprint certification (carbon and water); Esporão has the biggest ownership of organically-farmed vineyards in Portugal (18% of the national total); in Chile, Caliterra, Errazuriz and Viñedos Familia Chadwick were among the first wineries there to obtain the national sustainability certification. Across the Pacific, Esk Valley has been an active member of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) since its inception, while Villa Maria has achieved Certified Emissions Measurement and Reduction Scheme (CEMARS) certification.
As Gaia Gaja puts it so succinctly: “More life in the vineyard, more life in the wine.”
What of the wines on show though?
As far as value for money is concerned, it remains hard to beat Beaujolais, particularly in the face of Burgundy’s inexorable price rises.
“The region of Beaujolais is experiencing a great rebirth these days,” David Stephan, export director for Louis Jadot, declared. “It is worth noting that in the early stages of the 20th century, the crus of Beaujolais were as highly considered, and priced, as premier cru Côte de Nuits. Our Château des Jacques Moulin-à-Vent is a great testimony of what the region has to offer.” Indeed it was, with their Clos du Grand Carquelin 2015 label (RRP £31.30) showing especially well.
David Stephan
Also making a strong impression were the wines of ‘Terroirs et Talents,’ an association of Beaujolais and Maconnais family-owned estates. “Basically, we are all friends together,” said Gregory Barbet, a ninth generation member of a family making wine in Beaujolais since the 18th century. “We are all HVE3 certified and are all trying to replant our vineyards as almost all of the vines were planted between the two World Wars.” Barbet revealed that at his family’s estate, Domaine de la Pirolette in the Saint-Amour cru, they are replanting a hectare every three years.
“Fleurie is the most important cru,” Barbet continued, “but with Hatch, we are pushing other crus like Saint Amour, Julienas and Brouilly to bring a little bit more diversity than Fleurie. There are three styles in Beaujolais: fruity and floral, like in Brouilly, Fleurie and Chiroubles; fruity and spicy in Chenas, Saint-Amour and Julienas; full-bodied in Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent. Why the difference? It depends on the soil and terroir. Generally, the red fruit and floral crus have pink soil granite; the fuller style have blue volcanic soil…more black fruit.”
Gregory Barbet
Breezing charismatically into the tasting was Clovis Taittinger, the Grande Marque Champagne House’s head of exports and international development. Taittinger’s partnership with Hatch Mansfield is, of course, a longstanding one, with the duo being partners in the Domaine Evremond sparkling wine project in Kent where Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier vines were ceremoniously planted in May 2017. While revealing that the first release from there will be autumn next year, Clovis gave his thoughts on the UK market, which receives a bigger allocation of Taittinger than any other.
“We’re very happy with export levels here,” he proclaimed. “Sales are stable. We aim to keep focus on the quality, and don’t want to create any new cuvées. We don’t want to grow – the point is to keep doing the same thing better. Keep being better from the soil to the winemaking and to keep producing one of the top Champagnes in the world that is enjoyable, simple, super elegant. I’m super happy with the wines on show here. The Brut Reserve NV is wonderful… and the key cornerstone of the house.”
“I genuinely believe that the wines we are making are in superb shape, both technically speaking and pleasure-wise speaking. They are in their majesty right now, which comes from their simplicity, their consistency, the light elegant mineral style. As a drinker, I have an immense pleasure to drink them from the bottom to the top and vice versa.”
Pedro Vieira, sales director of Esporao
In contrast to Taittinger, Esporão is in only its second year with Hatch but has already seen sales to the UK soar as a result. The company, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary, has 645 hectares of organically-farmed vineyards across three key regions – Alentejo, the Douro and Vino Verde. “We’ve been in the UK twenty years but could never find a solid partner that could really represent our wines in a sustainable way,” Pedro Vieira, sales director, said. “Finally, we were lucky to find Hatch, and already have had our best year in the UK, with sales 35% up on our previous highest-selling year – mostly on-premise. We have no listing in supermarkets.”
Supermarkets, though, remain Hatch Mansfield’s biggest customers thanks to brands like Villa Maria and Errazuriz, but off-trade indies are important to the importer, stretching to well over 300. The strategy remains not to represent too many producers, with 19 still the number.
10 Hatch Mansfield wines that caught the eye
C.V.N.E. Virgen del Galir Val do Galir Godello, Valdeorras 2021 (£19.85)
A very appealing Godello from the village of Entoma on poor salty soils at 500m. Six months on the lees gives good structure and full body. Floral notes of herbs and citrus with a hint of minerality and a saline finish. Freshness and length.
Taittinger Brut Reserve NV (RRP £52.95)
A seductive blend of 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Pinot Meunier from over 35 different vineyards. Three years on the lees and dosage of 9 g/l. Fine mousse with fragrant aromas of peach, white flowers and brioche. Autolytic and biscuity notes with a touch of honey. Complex and long. Fully deserving of Clovis Taittinger’s description of it as ‘wonderful.’
Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules 2017 (magnum £165)
The flagship wine of Louis Jadot, sole owners of this 1.26 ha site since 1826 when bought from the Ursuline order of nuns. From low-yielding vines (30 hl/ha) aged between 50 and 60 years old on particularly stony soils. These aid in the production of one of Beaune’s most accomplished wines – generous and full-bodied with complex rich fruit and depth. Beautifully integrated structure from a third new oak, a third second fill and a third third fill.
Domaine de la Pirolette, Saint-Amour 2020 (£20.45)
From the second smallest cru in Beaujolais, the estate, which dates back to 1600, takes its name from a pretty white flower, the Pirole. Located on south-facing pebbly soils of sandstone, clay and pink granite, the vines produce a full-bodied wine with juicy red and blueberry fruit as well as white pepper notes. Cracking value.
M.CHAMPOUTIER Domaine de Bila-Haut Blanc 2021, AOP Côtes du Roussillon (£13.75)
While one of the oldest companies in the Rhône valley, dating back to 1808, Chapoutier makes wine from several French regions. This enticing blend of Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, Marsanne and Roussanne is superb value at this price point. Salty hints with fresh sea-shell notes, it comes in at 13% abv but is well-balanced by vibrant acidity (and a low pH of 3.12).
Esporão, Torre de Esporão 2017, DOC Alentejo (£216)
Only made in exceptional vintages, this being the fourth instance. A blend of Aragones (40%), Touriga Franca (30%), Alicante Bouschet (25%) and Touriga Nacional (5%). Grapes harvested separately between 21 Aug and 29 Sept. Elevage in 100% new French oak. Just 300 bottles produced. Complex blackberry fruit with dark chocolate and minty notes. Full-bodied structure, fine tannins and great length. A stunner with a long life.
Pepa Chadwick and the new vintage of Rocas
Seña, Rocas de Seña 2021, Aconcagua Valley (£64.95)
Six varietals go into this alluring blend, being made for only the second time. Pepa Chadwick says her father wanted a Mediterranean blend, and does not consider it a second wine of the flagship label. Malbec is the predominant grape (35%) followed by Syrah (21%), Cabernet Sauvignon (19%), Grenache (10%), Petit Verdot (9%) and Mourvèdre (6%). Elevage in concrete eggs (50%) and wood (50%).
Cherubino, Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Western Australia (£42.65)
Dark in colour but medium-bodied with very well-integrated high quality tannins. Complex, earthy notes with intense red and black fruit. Terrific concentration and length. Winemaker Larry Cherubino is a master of his art.
Kleine Zalze, Project Z Chenin Blanc Skin Contact 2019, Stellenbosch (£48.55)
Seven days of skin maceration and 9 months on the lees in amphorae. Spicy texture with some complex creaminess. Apple and citrus notes with hints of almonds. Zesty acidity balances 13.5% abv.
Esk Valley, The Terraces 2016, Heipipi, Hawkes Bay (£90.50)
One of New Zealand’s great wines, from very low-yielding, terraced vines planted in 1989 on seashell, limestone and clay soils. Malbec (40%), Merlot (33%) and Cabernet Franc (27%) all picked on the same day and co-fermented with wild yeasts. 50% new oak effortlessly absorbed with silkily soft tannins. Glorious black cherry and blackberry fruit with purity and complexity.