The Buyer on the road: top Spanish Grandes Pagos estates

When Grandes Pagos de España was established 17 years ago it was to recognise high quality individual Spanish wineries that were outside of the boundaries of traditional appellations. We decided to visit six of them to see if the original criteria were still being applied and taste the standard of the 19 Grandes Pagos wineries that are represented in the UK.

By Geoffrey DeanJuly 5, 2017

The six Grandes Pagos de España wineries we visited are Mustiguillo (DO Valencia), Enrique Mendoza (Alicante), Mas Doix (Priorat), Cervoles (Costers del Segre), Chivite and Arinzano (both Navarra).

It is now 17 years since Grandes Pagos de España was founded, an association of some of Spain’s smaller single estates that produce premium wines with their own grapes. If it remains something of a mystery why the grouping, which now numbers 28 wineries, is not better known among UK consumers, Grandes Pagos are firmly intent on spreading their word only to the British on-trade.

Make no mistake, their word – together with their produce – is worth paying attention to. UK importers currently stock 18 of the estates’ wines, and a 19th, Mas Doix, are looking for representation after parting company with OW Loeb.

The association is at pains to point out that it is not a commercial one. The central aim is to promote the vino de ‘pago’ (Spanish for ‘estate’) as well as the excellence of its wines. Twice a year, all 28 winemakers try and get together for technical knowledge sharing.

Every winemaking region in Spain is represented in Grandes Pagos apart from the Balearic islands. The association hopes an estate from there will join, but any aspiring winery must pass rigorous test conditions, including exhaustive tastings.

Once enrolled, member estates producing 40-100,000 bottles per year pay an annual subscription of €1500 plus a small amount per bottle. 90% of members make under 250,000 bottles and none more than half a million. Anyone producing less than 40,000 pays no sub. Subscriptions finance a Madrid-based marketing operation headed by Beatriz Hernandez.

And so we travelled to six of the best Grandes Pagos wineries

The Buyer recently visited six member estates: Mustiguillo (DO Valencia), Enrique Mendoza (Alicante), Mas Doix (Priorat), Cervoles (Costers del Segre), Chivite and Arinzano (both Navarra). We also tasted wines from all other 22 members, and were hugely impressed both by the quality and sense of place.

Toni Sarrion champions the Bobal varietal at Mustiguillo, and inventively fashions outstanding examples of it. Bobal is the second most planted red grape in Spain, and while most of it produces bulk wine, his versions are high quality. The Finca Terrerazo 2015, made from old vines on glacial soils, showed superbly and is available through Berry Bros and FMV.

“The grape has so many virtues – colour, freshness, long life and personality,” he said. His top Quincha Corral label received 95 points for the 2001 vintage from Robert Parker, and the 2006 which we tasted was fabulous, and in no way over-extracted. Sarrion’s personally-designed 900l concrete fermentation tanks are made from sand off the property.

Cervoles, like Mustiguillo, is certified organic, and is also distributed by Berry Bros. Its 31 hectares under vine lie just outside Priorat, but on very different soils (grey limestone) at an altitude of 700-800m. The fact a jersey in the evening there is necessary points to a wide diurnal range, and with it notable acidity retention and a low pH: 3.12 in Les Garrigues 2015, a Garnacha with seductive fruit, some spice and neatly integrated tannins.

The red ‘Colors’ 2014 (available through the Wine Society) is a very quaffable blend of Grenache, Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, with very attractive fruit and soft tannins. Cervoles also make a nice expression of Macabeo and Chardonnay, which are blended 50:50.

Chivite, whose UK distributor is Enotria & Coe, is another estate whose vineyards are found at altitude (600-800m). Its outstanding Coleccion 125 from 2011, made up of 100% Tempranillo, has red cherry notes and notable concentration. Twelve months in 50% new French oak give it structure too.

“I love the 2011, which was very hot and dry,” winemaker Javier Izquierdo told The Buyer. At 13.5% abv, it is a well-balanced wine, its tannins being overt but well integrated.

Chivite’s single vineyard Chardonnay from 2014 is something of a Spanish classic. Barrel-fermented, and aged for nine months in 100% new oak, it has wonderful length and very fresh acidity (with a pH of 3.3 and malolactic fermentation prevented).

Another brilliant Chardonnay, one of the best white wines from Spain, is made by Arinzano, whose new UK distributors are Cellar Trends. This beautiful estate, with historic buildings at its heart, is very much one worth keeping an eye on.

Portuguese winemaker, Manuel Louzada, also crafts a superb single varietal Merlot from vines that have been certified organic. The wine comfortably absorbs the 100% new French oak in which it is aged for 10-11 months.

The Enrique Mendoza winery sells around 4,000 bottles per annum through C&D Wines in London. Pepe Mendoza, whose father founded the estate, is a renowned viticulturalist who also makes the wines. Especially impressive was his ‘Estrecho’ label, made from 70-year old Monastrell vines.

“When we bought this vineyard in 2000, it was nearly dead,” Mendoza said. “But I believed in it, and after a lot of attention, it now produces wonderful fruit. A strong breeze helps add freshness.” The 2014, a terrific vintage, possesses minerality, real intensity of flavour and a long finish.

One of the most prestigious wineries in Spain, Mas Doix, is seeking new distribution in the UK, although OW Loeb still has some stock. Sandra Doix, one of a number of talented female Spanish winemakers, produces a top-notch range of wines. At the lower end is Les Crestes 2015 (80% Grenache), a great value lower premium wine available at £19, and, at the top end, the icon ‘1902’ label (£165).

The latter is made from ultra low-yielding bush vines planted in 1902 on very steep, slate-based slopes at 500m. We tasted the 2006, 2010 and 2013 vintages, all of which were marked by vibrant acidity, beautifully integrated tannins, stunning fresh red fruit and layers of complexity. The 2010 was the pick, a ‘textbook’ vintage in the view of owner, Valenti Llagostera.

The Chivite wines are distributed by Enotria & Coe who are an official sponsor of The Buyer. Read more about them here.