On a recent trip to the Bordeaux region, Geoffrey Dean visited Chateau d’Yquem to interview Sandrine Garbay, cellar master at the celebrated sweet wine producer
How difficult was the decision not to make any Yquem in 2012?
It was the first time for 20 years we did not make any sweet wine, although we were able to produce some dry white. It was not such a difficult decision as the fruit was not sufficiently high quality for us. And we weren't the only people - Rieussec and Suidiraut did not either. But it was only the second vintage since 1974 that we made no sweet wine, and only the sixth time since the Second World War - the other years being 1951, 1952, 1964 and 1972. In fact, in the whole history of the winery, there have only been ten years when we have not made any sweet wine. The first was 1910.
Sandrine Garbay, Yquem’s cellar master
How happy were you with your dry white 'Y' in 2012?
The Ygrec, as we pronounce it in French, is not made every year - in fact, 2012 was only the 23rd time we have made it since the first vintage in 1959. We produced what is a normal amount - around 10,000 bottles. The grapes for it were picked in September, so were unaffected by the autumn rain. I was pleased with the quality although it was not quite as good as 2011, which was one of the best years for the Ygrec. That was a great vintage for sauvignon blanc, which made up 70% of the blend. The rest is semillon.
When's the latest time you have harvested your grapes?
It was before my time - back in 1985 when they picked the last grapes on 19 December. Typically, we make five 'tris', or passes, through the vineyards to pick, although the record was ten in 1964. As you can imagine, that was a very difficult year and we ended up making no sweet wine.
Antoine Depierre, Yquem’s vineyard manager
How has vinification changed at Yquem in your time as maitre de chai?
Our average yield is still the same - about 10 hl/ha - but the level of residual sugar has gone up. It always used to be 100-110 g/l but now we aim for 120-140g/l. The main changes since I took over as cellar master in 1998 have been to lower the time of ageing in barrels from 36 to 24 months, and to limit the introduction of air into wines during barrel-ageing. We rack from barrel to barrel without air, which helps to preserve the fruits aromas in the wine, particularly the thiols. That's why our wines are now quite better to drink young, even two years after bottling because the fruits are there. Another point is that we manage better the fermentation process, with a lower level of volatile acidity. We have done that by adapting our indigenous yeasts very well to a high concentration of sugar thanks to a 'preculture,' and also by adjusting the concentration of ammonium in our must (a necessary nutrient for the yeast).
Vines in Yquem’s 113 hectares of vineyards
Why are the pH levels in Yquem's wines higher than they used to be?
I can't explain the higher pH levels in our wines, and I think that nobody can! Perhaps, it's global warming or the pH of the soils have changed. Possibly because we pick later, but I really don't know.
Which have been your favourite vintages?
In 2001, I said that we'll never see another vintage like it. It was wonderful. But 2009 is above all the others. We had perfect conditions again, and because of better preservation of fruit aroma, 2009 is better than 2001. The 2010 and 2011 vintages are on about the same level. We harvested in very cold conditions in 2010, which helped preserve freshness and acidity. It was a very light vintage - floral, with elegance and nice balance. 2011 was creamier, with conditions perfect for noble rot. It had more opulence.
Apart from 2012, what was the most difficult vintage that you have had to contend with?
It would have to be 2006. It was not one of the best. There was a lot of rain in August when 100mm fell in the last week of the month. We were really anxious but by chance it was dry and cold in September, although there was some rain at the end of the month which led to noble rot.
How is 2013 looking?
We had low temperatures and high amount of rains in the spring, particularly in May and June. The vines were two weeks late, and a lot of rain fell at the flowering period. So the beginning was a little bit complicated. But all is not lost, particularly if the autumn is quite good for noble rot. We can still have a great vintage - in the history of Yquem, we have had some vintages that started very badly and finished very well. So why not 2013!