Although South Africa is experiencing its most challenging vintage for years following the worst drought there since the early twentieth century, the country is entering a golden period not just for winemaking but also wine tourism. Geoffrey Dean travelled widely around the Western Cape, and picks out some of the most appealing places to stay.
Boschendal
International visitors are flocking to the winelands of the western Cape, with the Stellenbosch Wine Route reporting that visitor numbers to its wineries have doubled in the last year – a fifth consecutive year-on-year rise. While the growing global profile of South Africa’s wines continues unabated, the opening of new world-class accommodation in the last year in the western Cape has enhanced the region’s claims to be the number one wine tourism destination in the world.
New additions include Boschendal’s exquisite guest cottages, the charming Leeu Hotel in Franschhoek, and Tintswalo Atlantic, near Cape Town, which was reconstructed after being burnt down. Tintswalo’s magical, secluded location by the ocean at the bottom of Chapman’s Peak is the key to its appeal. Featuring a dozen lavishly furnished rooms built into the hillside, it has an outstanding wine list to complement its haute cuisine. Tintswalo is perfectly situated to explore the wineries of Constantia, making it an ideal starting point for a Cape wine tour.
Tintswalo
Stellenbosch, the logical next stop, offers both the most wineries and the most diverse accommodation. The Spier Hotel is a comfortable, convenient option a few kilometres west of the university town, while the Majeka House is a luxurious boutique hotel in a delightful spot near the centre.
For one of the greatest locations in the western Cape, Boschendal’s cottages to the east of Stellenbosch rank very high. Spectacular views of the Drakenstein Mountain are around every corner, whether you are exploring the 2,000-hectare estate by foot, bike or horse.
In keeping with its £15m revamp under new ownership, Boschendal’s wines have improved considerably, while an estate restaurant serves delicious fare, much of it sourced from the farm. A few kilometres from Boschendal on the road to Paarl is another very old estate, Vrede en Lust, which has likewise benefited from major refurbishment.
Meaning ‘rest and delight’ in Afrikaans, it is aptly named, for this could hardly be a more relaxing place to lay your head, whether in the 1688 manor house or the vineyard suites with fabulous views of the Simonsberg Mountain. The bistro is first-class, and winemaker Susan Erasmus has presided over a clear improvement in wine quality.
Making up a triumvirate of magnificent 300-year old estates to stay at is Doolhof. Tucked away under the picturesque Limietburg Mountains east of Wellington, it’s not the easiest place to find but well worth the effort. Appropriately, the stunning manor house, ‘Grande Dedale’, built by Huguenot settlers, is French for ‘labyrinth’. The vines, replanted in 1995, yield some of South Africa’s best Malbec.
Among South Africa’s best Syrahs are those from Mullineux Family Wines, in which Indian billionaire Analjit Singh recently bought a 47% stake. The range can be tasted at his new Leeu Hotel in Franschhoek. A traditional Cape Dutch style building with a thatched roof, this tastefully furnished elegant abode has been fully booked since opening last autumn. A worthy alternative is the The Last Word, a small boutique hotel on the high street.
Leeu Hotel in Franschoek
All these hotels have good South African wine lists, but none can compete with that of Grootbos, east of Hermanus. Set in a nature reserve with dramatic views towards the Cape Peninsula, the lodge is ideally situated to visit the wineries of Elim and the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley.
What makes its wine list so remarkable is not just the availability of virtually every top South African drop but also Cape Winemakers Guild wines going back to the mid-‘90s. CWG member, Dewaldt Heyns, crafts one of the country’s best Rhône-style blends, Saronsberg’s Full Circle. Saronsberg, near Tulbagh, has stunning mountain backdrops and its well-appointed cottages are a delightful place to stay. The cellar door also contains one of the best private art collections in the region, lovingly assembled by owners, Nick and Mariette van Huyssteen.
Vrede en Lust near Paarl
Tulbagh, 125km northeast of Cape Town, is one of those off-the-beaten-track wine regions that lacks the bling of Stellenbosch or Franschhoek, but it is well worth a visit, as is the quaint little town of Montagu, 215km due east of Cape Town, an ideal base to visit the wineries around Robertson.
The Montagu Hotel is a hidden gem with its large bedrooms, Art Deco furniture and laid-back atmosphere. Owner Gert Lubbe even takes guests for rides in his two classic cars, both from the 1950s.
Finally, no discourse on South Africa’s winelands would be complete without reference to its superb eating places, all highly affordable thanks to the weak rand.
If you want sumptuous cuisine and views-to-die-for, Tokara and Delaire Graff, neighbouring wineries at the top of the Helshoogte Pass overlooking Stellenbosch, are in a league of their own. A short drive from them, two wineries with growing reputations, Bartinney and Oldenburg, offer upmarket cottage accommodation in the most beautiful of settings.
For lunches only, the restaurant at Ken Forrester’s excellent winery deserves a mention, as does the Dalla Cia family’s wine bar at Bosman’s Crossing. For the best pasta (and grappa) in South Africa, go there. Not far away at Stellenbosch Hills is one of South Africa’s most beguiling fortifieds, made from Muscat de Hambourg and seven-year old potstill brandy.
Blaauwklippen, a cult lunch spot place in Stellenbosch with its sprawling grounds, makes the country’s best premium gin. One of the three oldest farms in the western Cape, having been founded in 1682 (the other two being Muratie and Groot Constantia), Blaauwklippen is a brand that grows ever stronger. As such, it mirrors both the wine industry and wine tourism in South Africa.